hey everyone ! one of my friends brought me his acura 3.2tl 200 this passed weekend with a intire exhaust system to redo and the idle was very rough and couldnt drive well.

I fixed the exhaust first in case it could be the o2 sensors not liking the freeflow lol

Now i looked it up and found that the most common problem for this is the idle air control valve. i changed it and now drives better, because befor it was hard to drive with it normally, ( rough accel, wanting to stall at stop and more ),BUT the idle is still jumping.

now i tested a few things and found that if i unplugged what i believe would be a throttle position sensor, the idle stopped jumping but the trans would shift hard. when i reset the C.E.L the idle started jumping again.

now i didnt clean out all the throttle body with cleaner cause i didnt have any, BUT cleaned it well anyway, ill buy cleaner tomorow, and clean it, see if it helps.

anybody have any ideas whats making it jump?

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...67&postcount=8

this is a good link im guessin you might and everyone with a tl with any throttle issues

 

You need to REDO your IACV that little thing gets bad and Fast... Just SOAK that bastard in Throttle body Cleaner and Wait for it To Dry before installing!
Check its movement too it should spin easily by Slight Movement with a Driver (Since its Magnetically Activated) it gets stuck becouse of Carbon Build up.

 

The EGR passageways within the intake get clogged up. Clean them and you'll notice a difference. Another thing to check is to make sure that the coolant is topped off and free of any trapped air, as this can cause a flucuating idle. R U gittin' ne codes ? Might help !

 

No im not getting anycodes, and by the way, i installed a new IACV, yesterday night, and the idle still jumped right away after, there was no delay in time, like i didnt change this a month ago, but ill undo everything and clean out with cleaner

 

It could be a TPS sensor not reading correctly. Do you have a multi meter? If so what is the voltage ignition on car not running though?

Another thing to check is with the car running take a spray can of carb cleaner and spray it around the intake near the TB (not in it but outside of it) and with engine cover off the top plate that bolts on and anywhere else that has a gasket on the intake. If the idle changes at all you have a vacuum leak.

Speaking of top plate, has that been off, or has he had work on it recently? If the metal gasket under it is on upside down it will cause idle issues as well

 

you were right about the O2 and flow rate
We have to install a slightly customized `spark plug anti fouler`--see diy section for pics and help
thats a sleeve the O2 will screw into--must open up its end a bit for correct rate
then it all screws back into exhaust
Should fix info to ecu problems

note on the iacv- you replaced the rod? others are cautioning to clean the place the rod sits,,and make sure its installed correctly with the tab back down etc

other running issues often clogged egr passage and ports inside intake manifold
remove manifold to service,,needed every 75kmiles

our front and rear motor mounts are fluid filled and vac boosted, off idle to stiffen them,,,front is a common failure every 60-75kmiles
causes mystery vac leak~ idle and running probs
look under car for drops of oily substance unlike anything you ever felt before- really!
and look up at mounts from under the car- traces of oil leak,,compressed look to rubber section of mount

 

Ok guys i need some help, the guy came by again this weekend, to repair what i thought would solve the problem,

Now i have done the following,

- cleaned out throttle body, changed gaskets
- changed IAC valve
- checked that the IAC valve works and cleaned out again
- cleaned out whole intake and changed all gaskets
- purged coolant line

AND IT STILL DOES IT!!!

Now this,
If i unplug the throttle position sensor it stops doing it, but gives a CEL lightt and the trans shifts hard, now, has anyone had a idle problem and it was the throttle position sensor that was the cause of it ??

 

And also id like to know ur if i did all the wright order dor checking this problem, just to reinsure my client a bit since hes seeing the bills add up, i started by cleaning the throttle body, change the throtle body gaskets, changes the IAC valve, then opened up de intake ,cleaned everything, changed all the gaskets, the blead the cooling system ( did that last only because i found out it might be this after ) and it still does it

I mean, at a normal garage, they would have done the same steps right?

 

I originally had codes for Random Multiple Misfires in 3 cylinders after changing my double platinum plugs for NGK Iriduims. I removed the throttle body and intake and cleaned both really good also cleaned EGR passages best I could. I reset the ECU by removing the #13 fuse. Started the car now the idle goes up and down. It goes away if I disconnect the TPS which causes P0122. my guess is the throttle cleaner damaged the sensor or I bumped it and damaged it. I was thinking of drilling slots into the rivets to remove it and clean it.

Seems were having the same issue and I was wondering if you fixed it and how?

 

I have the same exact issue on my 99 TL, i've replaced exactly what you have and am still having the issue of the bouncing idle. Only thing i haven't changed is the motor mounts since there hydralic filled and suppose to cause an idle issue if damaged. if you come up with a solution please post.

 

OK today I removed the throttle body and upper intake. I clean the EGR again, cleaned the throttle again and cleaned the IACV It was stuck. I reinstalled everything with the specified torque.
~Before the RPMs were bouncing around 1500-2000 in P/N and were high in D/R at 1500.
~Now they are bouncing from 1000-1200 in P/N and are at 1000 in D/R.
I tried the idle adjust screw but it didn't seem to be making a difference. I used the procedure in my repair manual.
Next step before I replace the intake and throttle gaskets is to Run Seafoam through a vacuum hose. I just put new NGK Iridium plugs. Should I put the Double Platinum plugs back in for the Sea Foam???

 

OK so I have started the car let it warm up and driven it 4 times since doing this today.
The problem seems to be going away. The last time I started it the idle didn't bounce at all... But when I was starting the Sea Foam I pulled the PCV valve out of the grommet in the valve cover and the idle started going up and down IMEDIATLY. I think it could have been not sealing properly and was the source of the vacuum leak. Put some oil on it so it slides in nice and let your car warm up 3 or 4 times you can reset your PCM also before you do this.

 

Other items that can cause idle issues are the EGR valve (can easily be removed and cleaned), MAP, O2 and ECT sensors (can be tested by following procedure in service manual).