Help removing throtle body, Please....
I am trying to remove the throtle body so I can clean all the carbon build up in it and the IAC. The problem is that the throtle body is on very tight. Cannot remove it. Not sure if I am missing something.
This is a 2000 3.2 TL.
I have removed the 2 nut on top and 2 bolts on the bottom that is suppose to attach the throtle body to the manifold.
I have removed most of the other hose attachments except for the bottom one. The throtle cable attachment with springs are still attached to the body.
I cannot move the throtle body at all. One thing I notice on the top bolt where I removed the nut. The bolt is threaded and is attached all the way through from the throtle body to the manifold and protruding on the other side of the manifold. the protruding part is also threaded. Not sure if it means anything at all.
Thanks for any help you can give.
This is a 2000 3.2 TL.
I have removed the 2 nut on top and 2 bolts on the bottom that is suppose to attach the throtle body to the manifold.
I have removed most of the other hose attachments except for the bottom one. The throtle cable attachment with springs are still attached to the body.
I cannot move the throtle body at all. One thing I notice on the top bolt where I removed the nut. The bolt is threaded and is attached all the way through from the throtle body to the manifold and protruding on the other side of the manifold. the protruding part is also threaded. Not sure if it means anything at all.
Thanks for any help you can give.
Wow did not know it is that difficult!
Thanks for responding.
I was thinking it should pop right off after you remove the 4 bolts. I was expecting it to slide out. I did not have any problem removing the 2 nuts and the 2 bolts.
I tried to pry it a little but no help. Tap it with a block of wood and hammer. No help. The is not any place where you can easily leverage to pry it out.
I was thinking it should pop right off after you remove the 4 bolts. I was expecting it to slide out. I did not have any problem removing the 2 nuts and the 2 bolts.
I tried to pry it a little but no help. Tap it with a block of wood and hammer. No help. The is not any place where you can easily leverage to pry it out.
How did everyone else do it?
I am reading lots of threads about cleaning the throttle and IACV. There is no mention of any difficulty of removing the Throttle body after removing the bolts. Anyone who have done this, please help.
it's been a while since i've removed mine, but i remember just removing all the vacuum lines, the throttle cable assembly, the two nuts and two bolts and it popped right off. have you taken a screw driver and pried between the IM and the TB? do you see anything that is securing the TB to the IM? have you tried lubing the bolts and other areas with perhaps WD-40?
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remove the throttle cables and all the vacuum lines and water lines to the TB.
plug coolant/water lines with bolt or golfing tee
See the DIY thread Thermoblock install and EGR cleaning
That will have more pics and info for you
Most people do the entire egr port cleaning by removing the intake manifold, and the TB from it and cleaning everything--about 75kmiles and it needs it on a TL
Question- is your idle erratice- what made you diagnose the iac valve?
plug coolant/water lines with bolt or golfing tee
See the DIY thread Thermoblock install and EGR cleaning
That will have more pics and info for you
Most people do the entire egr port cleaning by removing the intake manifold, and the TB from it and cleaning everything--about 75kmiles and it needs it on a TL
Question- is your idle erratice- what made you diagnose the iac valve?

they should not be on that tight
i wonder if i even need to clean my EGR ports. it's been 154k miles & never been done on my 03TL-p. no CEL about it or anything. starting to wonder if i should even do it, but given my luck with cars the past couple months, i'm sure it'll become a problem pretty soon
yes- it needs it - doesnt throw a code- exhaust crud plugs the small passages easily and effects idle in a hard to notice way, and when restricted causes backpressure its not made for
E10 gas burns poorly compared to old school gas and contributes to the problem
per our megamod fsttyms1- who has over 300k miles on 1 TL = every 75kmiles is appropriate interval for cleaning, and thats with doing seafoam on a regular basis too!
E10 gas burns poorly compared to old school gas and contributes to the problem
per our megamod fsttyms1- who has over 300k miles on 1 TL = every 75kmiles is appropriate interval for cleaning, and thats with doing seafoam on a regular basis too!
Thanks to all suggestions
It's great with everyone trying to help.
I think it is true that the gasket has bonded. Its a 2000 TL and have never been removed. I gave up on trying to remove it for now. I just spray it with carb and choke cleaner. I hope it helps.
First, I want to let you know that I am relatively handy on most things. However, I am a noob at being a car mechanic. About 1 month ago, after filling up with gas, the car started very rough on about the third start or so. It runs very rough and even stalls for the first minute. Then it would run OK until the next start. This repeats itself for four or five times so I put in some fuel injection cleaner in the gas thinking I have gotten bad gas. everything went OK until the next fill up. Again, I have rough startup but minor as it did not stall. It does this only one time. Did not repeat so I did not do anything. Bringing up to a few days ago, the RPM rev up and down. particularly noticeable when in neutral or park. I figured I would try cleaning the IAC + throttle from reading threads here.
I will try to remove it may again maybe in a week or so. I will try the suggestion of using WD40. BTW, what is PB blaster? does it work better than WD40?
I think it is true that the gasket has bonded. Its a 2000 TL and have never been removed. I gave up on trying to remove it for now. I just spray it with carb and choke cleaner. I hope it helps.
Question- is your idle erratice- what made you diagnose the iac valve?
hANDYcaptd I think the gasket has bonded the two pieces over time. Try spraying WD-40 or PB Blaster to loosen it.
It's great with everyone trying to help.
I think it is true that the gasket has bonded. Its a 2000 TL and have never been removed. I gave up on trying to remove it for now. I just spray it with carb and choke cleaner. I hope it helps.
First, I want to let you know that I am relatively handy on most things. However, I am a noob at being a car mechanic. About 1 month ago, after filling up with gas, the car started very rough on about the third start or so. It runs very rough and even stalls for the first minute. Then it would run OK until the next start. This repeats itself for four or five times so I put in some fuel injection cleaner in the gas thinking I have gotten bad gas. everything went OK until the next fill up. Again, I have rough startup but minor as it did not stall. It does this only one time. Did not repeat so I did not do anything. Bringing up to a few days ago, the RPM rev up and down. particularly noticeable when in neutral or park. I figured I would try cleaning the IAC + throttle from reading threads here.
I will try to remove it may again maybe in a week or so. I will try the suggestion of using WD40. BTW, what is PB blaster? does it work better than WD40?
I think it is true that the gasket has bonded. Its a 2000 TL and have never been removed. I gave up on trying to remove it for now. I just spray it with carb and choke cleaner. I hope it helps.
First, I want to let you know that I am relatively handy on most things. However, I am a noob at being a car mechanic. About 1 month ago, after filling up with gas, the car started very rough on about the third start or so. It runs very rough and even stalls for the first minute. Then it would run OK until the next start. This repeats itself for four or five times so I put in some fuel injection cleaner in the gas thinking I have gotten bad gas. everything went OK until the next fill up. Again, I have rough startup but minor as it did not stall. It does this only one time. Did not repeat so I did not do anything. Bringing up to a few days ago, the RPM rev up and down. particularly noticeable when in neutral or park. I figured I would try cleaning the IAC + throttle from reading threads here.
I will try to remove it may again maybe in a week or so. I will try the suggestion of using WD40. BTW, what is PB blaster? does it work better than WD40?
they also make a gasket remover- it softens gasket material for easy scraping off, may help enough on this job to allow removal
If not- wd will soften it when left overnight
At this point I would pull the intake manifold to clean the EGR ports and clean the TB inside, and IAC valve on bottem of the tb
Sounds like more than a dirty iac as that should affect idle each time- its a good start but look further
You may have bought bad gas -the cleaner will help,, but depending on the brand may require several cans do do a decent job,,example stp needs 3 bottles for a basic job
Seafoam works to pick up any water and clean system, Redline SI-1 is plain awesome at cleaning injectors and carbs
pulled a few spark plugs for inspection?
If not- wd will soften it when left overnight
At this point I would pull the intake manifold to clean the EGR ports and clean the TB inside, and IAC valve on bottem of the tb
Sounds like more than a dirty iac as that should affect idle each time- its a good start but look further
You may have bought bad gas -the cleaner will help,, but depending on the brand may require several cans do do a decent job,,example stp needs 3 bottles for a basic job
Seafoam works to pick up any water and clean system, Redline SI-1 is plain awesome at cleaning injectors and carbs
pulled a few spark plugs for inspection?
Looks like I have alot more to do.
they also make a gasket remover- it softens gasket material for easy scraping off, may help enough on this job to allow removal
If not- wd will soften it when left overnight
At this point I would pull the intake manifold to clean the EGR ports and clean the TB inside, and IAC valve on bottem of the tb
Sounds like more than a dirty iac as that should affect idle each time- its a good start but look further
You may have bought bad gas -the cleaner will help,, but depending on the brand may require several cans do do a decent job,,example stp needs 3 bottles for a basic job
Seafoam works to pick up any water and clean system, Redline SI-1 is plain awesome at cleaning injectors and carbs
pulled a few spark plugs for inspection?
If not- wd will soften it when left overnight
At this point I would pull the intake manifold to clean the EGR ports and clean the TB inside, and IAC valve on bottem of the tb
Sounds like more than a dirty iac as that should affect idle each time- its a good start but look further
You may have bought bad gas -the cleaner will help,, but depending on the brand may require several cans do do a decent job,,example stp needs 3 bottles for a basic job
Seafoam works to pick up any water and clean system, Redline SI-1 is plain awesome at cleaning injectors and carbs
pulled a few spark plugs for inspection?
Would SI-1 help enough so I do not have to do all the extra cleaning
?
No- SI-1 wil clean the injectors and upper stuff similar to seafoam thru gas but wont access the egr ports
If you havnt tried it at cleaning strength- a bottle to 1/2 tank, same as seafoam cleaning strength--then it does its best job for you
run that gas down and the injectors will be clean
While its possible to remove the egr valve and try ramming a coat hanger thru it to get each port-(kidding- do not attempt)
its a lot faster to remove the manifold and do it right... without damaging the car and your dignity...
read the egr diy to see the tiny passageways and understand how they plug so easily
If you havnt tried it at cleaning strength- a bottle to 1/2 tank, same as seafoam cleaning strength--then it does its best job for you
run that gas down and the injectors will be clean
While its possible to remove the egr valve and try ramming a coat hanger thru it to get each port-(kidding- do not attempt)
its a lot faster to remove the manifold and do it right... without damaging the car and your dignity...
read the egr diy to see the tiny passageways and understand how they plug so easily
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