Shaqs2002TLS

LOL

joe80055

joe80055

Alright, Installed the Basics with Mario last night, lowered them all the way to the bottom... and I must say.. i have one hell of a drop!



As for the newer engine, the AC compressor, alternator, and oil pump were all reinstalled.



Shifter, spacers, etc. are on their way.

Just removed the wiring between classes and work. I'll provide more updates soon.

Kris, the belts that go to the compressor, starter, and oil pump. Do you happen to know the part numbers? If not, I'll just ask around at the auto parts store.

fsttyms1

So are you saying that the engine came with the alt and ac comp??

Actually i dont off hand. You should get them from the dealer along with a new timing belt (easy to do it now, plus you have to remove it to change out the lower timing belt pulley and ckp sensor.

extremetls

thats a nice center piece for the table.

vzuptnguyen

damn yo shit is slammed joe! btw are those cr-kais?

joe80055

Oh no, the engine didn't come with all of those, I transferred all of them from my old engine to the new. I'm worried about changing the timing belt pulley since I don't have a helms manual.. is it possible to post pics of the directions? that'd be awesome I'd rather go to autozone or carland and get the belts from there... it's rape if i were to go to the dealerships around here.

Why thank you. lol
what are cr-kais? lol the drop's so sexy.. it kills me each time i see it despite the missing engine... lol


Hey guys, how much would it cost to roll by rear fenders? ... rough estimate...

3.2VtecTL

iTrader: (2)

Hey, im interested in the cluster, send me a message or something... i can't send you a private message, i guess because im a new user....

Thanks, Im starting to read and definitely going to subscribe to this thread!!

good luck!

joe80055

Kris, my headers.. I was thinking of having the front and rear headers on there while the engine's still out... you think I'll have enough clearance to put the engine back into the bay with them on? I already removed my strut bar a while back. I just want to make the job easier/faster

godfather2

joe, i'm available tonight if you need a hand

Bob_F

Joe,

I know that it's expensive but the Helm manual is worth every penny. It can easily pay for itself in one repair. As shop manuals go, it's a very good one.

http://www.helminc.com/helm/homepage.asp?r=

And you can sometimes find used copies on eBay or in the Black Market forum.

And keep going! You're doing great!

Bob

BxPortoRoc

Hey joe, you never got the chance to send me the product# for the 99 TL cold air intake you used. Your project is coming out great man, hope you can provide me with that bit of info for my car. thanks

joe80055

Hold up, aren't you the one that I can into on ebay? LOL Sure, i'll get you the part number after I get out of class later on today

BxPortoRoc

yeah its me lol.... that would be a great help man, i need an intake..lol i need to hear that v-tech..... any reccomendations with exhaust?

TheDailyTL

if you dont mind me asking how much did you pay for the type s motor. i have a really high mileage 99 tl and im thinking about doing the swap. my friend and i have done three b-series swaps into civics and i think the TL swap would be harder but thers only one way to find out.

joe80055

So far, I have to admit, doing everything without the manual.. yet.. has been easy so far.. with regards to taking out the motor, replacing a few things here and there.. easy... reinstalling the motor will be easy as well.. I'm just not sure how the rewiring will be for the car... i'm not removing the dash and rewiring it so I want to see if that works to avoid that whole ordeal.. .if not, then i'll have to remove the dash and do the same that kris did.

orgnlprankster7

i would think you would have to remove the dash to get the 6 speed shifter and type s gauges and such in

fsttyms1

you could put them on and it will fit just fine. Just need to be carefull not to bang them.

As for the timing belt, i dont have the manual near buy but ill try to explain the best i can.
Loosen the bolt that holds the crank pulley on and the front upper cam gear(remove upper cover for loosening)
On the front top cam cover there is a rubber plug (tear drop shape) pop that open so you can see in. If you leave the cover off there is a mark on teh cam gear and the backing plate to align with as well for the next step.
Put a wrench on the crank bolt and turn it watching for teh timing mark on the crank pulley matches up with the plastic arrow on the lower cover. Look into the small hole you opened and see if you can see a 1 or a line that lines up with the opening. If not turn the crank another full revolution till it lines back up on the bottom. inspect the upper hole again. Once you got the both aligned your on TDC.

Remove crank pulley bolt and pulley (carefull not to turn the crank) and the covers. then remove the 2 bolts that hold the tensioner on. remove the belt. (now is a good time to have and install the new lower and upper cam gear, the backing plate the 2 TDC sensors and the CKP sensor. You dont want to take those covers off while in the car. Its far easier to do all this work outside the car.

No you dont. the shifter goes thru the stock location on the center tunnel. Plenty of room with the center console removed. Gauge cluster goes in just like it would normally.

fsttyms1

Found these images that i had on my puter
Oh line up the lower with the white mark on the crank pulley

lower cover pointer


upper cover

joe80055

Aw shit.. I have to deal with the crank pulley bolt?! FUCK. Alright, I was thinking of replacing the pulley anyway, so I might as well... what kind of socket do I need for the pulley bolt? I'll probably have to get a large pipe from home depot to get more leverage as well...

fsttyms1

Yes, the crank pulley HAS to come off. you Have to replace parts behind it. you will most likely need a friend or to to help hold the motor while doing it as well. Use a big screw driver thru one of the holes in the flexplate to help keep the motor from turning internally. I dont remember the size, i think its a 19mm

mrproul

19 mm sounds about right

BxPortoRoc

Wha sup dude, you think you can help me out with the intake dilema. Product # pleaseeee........

joe80055

yeah, i'll have to go out and get two things.. a 19mm 6pt deep socket, and a 19mm 12pt socket for the flywheel bolts. I hate spending money .... but it's for a good cause i guess. A 6-speed

joe80055

Alright guys... I'm on a time crisis here... less than 30 days before the meet.... I'll need all the help I can get... All of my boys in tampa... we must unite :gheyhug: to finish this conversion on time. Anyone down for friday, saturday, and some nights on the weekend? I figured I'd work on the car and Mario would need help installing his WW kit. Let me know...

fsttyms1

Do you have all the new sensors and timing belt gears?

joe80055

They're on the way.

Rgold_CLS

Dude...Congratulations, you have succeeded in keeping me from studying for the past 2hrs...LOL...(I really should be studying)...But All The best man, your brave!!!

fsttyms1

Cool. If you need any help figuring things out or have questions when you get them PM me.

joe80055

Sure will!! I was wondering though, how can I remove the crank pulley bolt without turning the crankshaft? Is there anywhere I can stick the screw driver in to keep the crankshaft from turning?

King D

see above... Insert 'tool' through flexplate/flywheel and a boss on the engine block. Or buy a crank pulley holder tool.

http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-64879...5783663&sr=8-2

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

50% I will be there Saturdaynight,

joe80055

Hey Kris, did your engine ever come with an IMRC? Mine did... is that unusual?

fsttyms1

Yes use a screw driver thru the flex plate to keep the crank from turning

The IMRC or the actuator. The IMRC is the unit thats located under the dash that controls the 2nd stage actuator.

mrproul

is the engine out of the car? if so just take it to the dealer and ask if one of the service techs can take the bolt off. if the motor is in the car, if you have access to a impact wrench and a moble compressor you should be able to do it, you should max out the PSI on the compressor ( not to high probably about 90-110 psi) that should zip off that bolt no problem. i also beleive if you put the bolt back on and it is tight the motor should tighten down the bolt even further.


good luck,

Mrproul

joe80055

So would this be the IMRC?



Also, the TDC sensors, doesn't the engine come with these already or not? Also, the crank sensor, the $421.44 little part.... Can I install everything first and then do that last? That's probably going to be the last thing I install in the car since I want to buy alot of other things out of the way first. How hard is the install?

joe80055

... anyone can help me here on this one?

joe80055

okay. guys, seriously. I need some help here. When I try removing the crank pulley bolt, I inserted a screwdriver into one of the holes of the flex plate, it just bends. Help? someone?

orgnlprankster7

did you try hitting it?

joe80055

lol, i'm afraid to break anything. Oh! BTW, your covers come to your door this week