I'm unable to remove the throttle body from the intake manifold. I've looked through several DIYs and the service manual and it seems my TB isn't attached to the intake in the same way. The TB bolts don't protrude from the manifold instead they go all the way through. How am I supposed to take this apart and install the thermobloks? Will the thermoblok kit's bolts still work?

I recommend keeping the parts out of the house because it gets messy and the carb cleaner melted the porcelain in my bathtub
photoshow below

 

slip the TB off the studs,,might require some persuassion if you know what I mean
rubber mallet and block of wood?

use 2 nuts on a stud, go halfway down exposed threads
tighten/lock them against each other

apply wrench to lower nut and remove stud same as it it were normal bolt!
the new longer bolts will go right into the existing threads

 

remember to do the iacv cleaning on bottem of TB
remove cover, release tab, remove rod and clean air slit in that

clean and lube the throttle return springs too
and of course the big round air plate in the TB throat- get both sides and edges- opens with throttle control on side of tb

 

Ok, I'll give the TB some persuading. It's good to know it's supposed to come off. I was worried something was going to breakk. Mallet and wood block is a good idea. I'll report back. thanks

 

A good whack with a wooden stick and hammer loosened the throttle body. Everything is back together and idle / response much improved.

CEL light was on. I did the fuse reset. CEL light went away.

Today driving home after 50 miles of driving. CEL, VSA, and VSA exclamation triangle light were on. I turned car off and jiggled the VSA throttle body connectors and turned car back. The VSA and exclamation triangle light were off but CEL was still on.

My front brake pads are ready to be changed, indicators are on. I'm wondering if I have an 2 issues: 1 caused by brake pads and VSA and the other having to do with something related to the EGR cleaning making the CEL come on.

I hope this can be easily remedied. The fuse has been reset twice so far.

 

get the codes read

 

I got a P1491 code.

 

and you looked it up in our diy section or googled to get printed name of code?

 

Definitely did. Code indicates insufficient EGR valve lift. I'm trying to figure out how to go about diagnosing what's wrong...if the EGR valve is shot from some crud that hit it. I'm going to try to yank the EGR valve off today and clean it up a little and see how the inside works. I'm just wondering there would be no code when the EGR tube was crudded and the code shows up after I cleaned everything out. Could it be the sensor that got damaged in the reassemble and not the valve? Any chance a seafoam treatment might help? My spark plugs aren't new anymore some I'm not sure if I'd want to seafoam in case the carbon didn't cook off during the hot foot drive.

 

Do as you suggested. Same thing happened to me after I cleaned my EGR port a few weeks back. I took off the EGR Valve, opened it up and gave it a good cleaning. No more CEL. Good luck!

 

If during cleaning you cleaned the port that goes down to the EGR its most likely plugged up. Clean that port and the egr out and things should be good.

 

seafoam doesnt hurt things,,it liquifies carbon--
most any effort at having engine warm to start- proper 10 minute cook time and finally the blowout drive- which can be done much less aggressivly than we suggest and still work fine

smoke is relative= heat in cat to oil in seafoam
not indicator of crud amount or quality of the job

 

hey guys i took the egr valve off and it was plugged almost as bad as the EGR port. I sprayed it down and reset the CEL, and it's been good for 200 miles.

 

you are supposed to remove the valve from the manifold when you are cleaning that

Lube its operating arm, and poke the ports/holes where it mounts
Then the length of the egr passage thru the manifold with a wire rod and carb cleaner
from those holes to the other end of the manifold