pnthr30

I am just wondering if anyone has ever (or ever heard of) the crankshaft bolt breaking or shearing off when it is trying to be removed....I am in the process of changing my timing belt (amongst other things) and that bolt WILL NOT come off. I have tried just about everything I can but don't want to keep going at it in fear of breaking off the head of the bolt which would leave me with a HUGE problem of having a bolt stuck in the crank. I realize that it is a think 19mm bolt, but I have tried an impact gun, big ace breaker bar and the homemade tool described in another post, heating and cooling/torch, etc. etc. etc. With the 5 foot breaker bar, and the heating cooling I am exerting some serious force (way more than should be expected).....I just want to make sure that no one has ever seen that bolt broken before I crank more.

My other thought is just to somewhat put the car back together and take it to a shop (say an acura dealer) and pay them an hour of service to break it loose. That way, I pay (+/-$100) for an insurance policy....if they break the bolt off, it is now thier problem......but if they get it off, I am able to continue my project and only lost out on my $100 (which I am ok with)....

Thoughts? Thanks!

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

the bolt is put on with about 180ft/lbs. over time it gets tighter, i know u tried a torch and breaker bar, did u try like pb blast and let it soak in for a while. i used an impact gun and it didnt get mine off, i sprayed pb blast on the bolt and a couple min later i used a breaker bar and a cheater bar about 2ft long and it got it off, it was on thier good and it took a couple of tries.

01tl4tl

either spend 20 bucks on the proper tool that holds the pulley so you can get the bolt out
OR
use the DIY method with a strong breaker bar on the bolt - place end of tool against the ground- hit the starter (use key to turn ignition to start) a few times- quickly-
bam- its loose!

in reinstall- place a prybar in the flywheel teeth and jam it from moving
torque 181 foot pounds on the bolt!!!

snowman81

I used the second method in 01tl4tl's post and it worked fine for me. Just make sure when you're doing that trick, you don't start the car. Just crank it...don't let it turn over.

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

the special tool really helps alot. go to murrays or an auto part sore and rent it for a couple bucks, then when your done return it and ull get your money back.

pnthr30

My problem is not with the pully rotating.........the DIY tool described on this board works perfectly.

I realize that over time this bolt gets considerably tighter than the 180 ft/lbs, but given the size of the breaker bar and the force I have exerted, I am well over 1000 ft/lbs and it isn't doing anything (in addition to the heating, cooling, pb blaster, hitting it with an impace (both directions), etc..... If I can be certain that the bolt won't sheer, I will keep at it, but like I said, I am very afraid of breaking off the bolt. From the sounds of it, no one on the board has ever had the bolt break.......is that correct?

The only think I haven't tried is hitting the starter like 01tl4tl suggested......I'll give that a try.

Thanks guys, feel free to add any additional suggestions/thoughts.

TX-Miner

I've never heard of the pully bolt breaking. I use a 4' hydraulic jack handle with a breaker bar and tell you I've put much of my 175+ lbs at the end of the lever to get the bolt to start turning. Usually there is a loud "Pop" when it happens, so you'll think you've broken the bolt, the socket or the breaker bar, but it is just the bolt starting to turn. Its always fun going from my day job working on realtively sensitive electronic circuit cards and actuators to my hobby of cars. One gets use to being very gentle with electronics and suddenly "Reefing" on a wrench seems so savage.

Miner

swalch@stanford.edu

I've always used the hex tool along with a 3/4" drive breaker bar and a length of pipe (about 4' lever arm). I put a 1/2" drive breaker bar on the tool and wedge it up against one of the lower control arms then pull on the 3/4" drive breaker bar. I believe a 3/4" drive breaker bar is essential. A 1/2" drive breaker bar will flex too much to get the torque needed.

On one occasion I took a car to a mechanic and had them loosen a bolt first ( a front wheel drive outer CV joint nut).

pnthr30

I think I will just go at it again (hard) and hope for the best - don't want to be the first to break off the head of the bolt. Thanks, guys......

SodaLuvr

Don't use heat. I believe there's an O-RING near that bolt that may be damaged if you use heat.

A 3/4" impact should take it off. You're on the right track with the 5' breaker bar. It does take well over 1000 lbs of force to get it off. Don't worry about snapping it off, it won't happen.

fsttyms1

I snapped a breaker bar on that bolt. Its on there. Dont be afraid to go for it. Use 01tl4tl's method of using the starter to break it loose.

pnthr30

FYI - Just in case anyone else runs into the same issue.

Short version: I got it off.

Longer version: As you guys indicated, the bolt did not snap....my problem was with the DIY tool that I made. Even though I tightened up the fittings as much as I could (and thought they were tight), via a bench vise and some long bars, when I laid into the bolt, they were spinning ever so slightly (thats why I thought the bolt might sheer). So, I took the tool off, tack welded the fightings together so they couldn't spin, and went back at the pulley bolt.......viola, with a little (actually a lot) muscle, it came off like you guys indicated (after a loud pop).

Thanks.

01tl4tl

the special tool to hold the pulley is 20 bucks at kragen- checker- shucks auto parts
I was not aware you could rent one!-

You could use it once, and then help local ziners do their car-
or sell it on the black market section to a deserving ziner

note- I got the starter method off the pulley install diy on azine- not my idea!!

Should probably pull the ignition fuse to be sure it wont try to start

01tl4tl

Note
Bolts dont tighten up- if they did it would stretch the threads and eventually shear the bolt- breaking itself
It is on in the opposite direction of engine rotation... only so it doesnt loosen up~

snowman81

I did the starter method after being told by a guy I know that it was a way to get the bolt off in a pinch. When I posted the method that I used to get the bolt off, some people gave me some crap saying that I could have screwed something up. Granted, they are right, but it worked and I didn't screw anything up. How many other mods do we do to our car that "could screw something up"? Anyhow, glad to see I'm not the crazy one anymore if more people are using that as a way to get the bolt off. Good idea to pull the fuse though.