I finally finished converting every ugly green bulb inside to a blue LED.







It was a lot easier than I expected. The gauges are completely plug and play, and I didn't even have to open the cluster. I would have done this a long time ago if I knew how easy it was.

 

Looks great! How did you get to the fog, cruise, vsa switches? I need to change out those bulbs but not sure how to access them

 

Dang, that's pretty sweet!

 

Do you have a list of the bulbs and quantities you used?

 

Not sure if OP used the same source, but check: ledautomotive

 

I could make a DIY if there's interest for it.
This website has excellent customer service, and will make sure you're happy. Unfortunately, their LEDs are overpriced and last gen tech. They were a good resource back when people had to solder resistors onto their T3 neo wedge bulbs, but you can buy everything plug and play for dirt cheap on Amazon/eBay now.

 

Yeah +1 for source, parts needed, price, etc

 

Okay, here's a list from the top of my head.

Fog Light: 2x T3 Neo Wedge Bulb
Sunroof: 2x T3 Neo Wedge Bulb
TCS/VSA and Cruise: 3x T3 Neo Wedge Bulb
Light Dimmer Wheel: 1x T3 Neo Wedge Bulb
Select/Reset: 2x T3 Neo Wedge Bulb
Seat Heater Buttons: 2x T3 Neo Wedge Bulb (x1 each)
--I added some white-out inside the above buttons to get better light spread--
Navi Climate Control Bar: 5x T3 Neo Wedge Bulb (Use White or Red for Defrost, Temp Reading, and Temp Button.)

Source for T3 Neo Wedge Bulb: Those are blue. You can buy Red, White (will show up light blue), or any other colors. Just make sure they have 2 LEDs on them.

Odometer: 3x 74 LEDs (Use White or Red)
Turn Signals: 2x 74 LEDs
Gauge Cluster: ~5x 74 LEDs (Use White or Red)

Source for 74 LEDs: Just add a small bit of solder to the ends, so that they fit snug in the OEM sockets. You can use tape/glue or something else if you can't solder.

--------------Everything below requires very basic soldering (no small resistors or anything)---------------

Radio: ~9x 12v 3mm LEDs
Navi Buttons: 5x 12v 3mm LEDs
Power Mirror Switch: 1x 12v 3mm LED

Source for 12v 3mm LED: These are made to handle the 12v power from our car, so you don't need to add any resistors. Just shave off the tops of the LEDs so they are flat on top (Use dremmel or rub against sandpaper).

Power Window Switches: 7x 3v 3mm LEDs (4x for driver's door, and 1x for each other door)
Memory Seat: 1x T3 Neo Wedge Bulb, and 2x 3v 3mm LEDs (This particular Neo Wedge bulb needs to be super bright and have a super wide angle. I used a triple LED from Autolumination, and it barely fit.)

Source for 3v 3mm LED: These are already shaved to be flat top LEDs. They replace are 3v, because our cars already use LEDs in these switches.

Key Ring: 1x 1206 SMD LED

Source for 1206 SMD LED: You only need one, but this comes with many of each color in case you ruin some. These are very small, so take your time.

I can make a DIY for any of these swaps, as they are all pretty basic. Use flat top LEDs for a wider light angle, and use some white-out inside the button housings if you need better spread.

 

Thanks for listing out the parts, quantities, and where you got them.

For the seat heaters did you change all three bulbs per switch or just one each?

Also did you change the bulb for the gear display in the center console?

 

For the seat heaters, I just changed the middle bulb. I think the red light from the Hi or Low positions makes sense, so I left them stock.

I have a 6 speed manual transmission, so I don't have a gear display.

 

Sweet ass build Karanx! man I wish I had the patience to do this... But I use the TL so little for night drives now that Its even less likely to be ever done and since my MDX is already Full LEDs? I am even more than happy to use it in the night rather than the TL.

Also: You were running hot in the first pic? issue with the temp gauge?

 

Nah, I changed the gauge to be actually useful instead of basically a dummy light.

When stock, the gauge would only start moving when you were already overheating (around 235F), and would hit full red at ~273F. Jeez, your car would be steaming and damaged by then.
Now, the gauge will hit full red (220F) when the car is starting to overheat, so I know to shut off before the damage is done. My car naturally cycles between 190F-210F according to my EMS.

 

How did you change its behavior? its all done by the EMS ECU?

 

No, the AEM EMS 2 30-6051 doesn't actually output a coolant signal, even though it accepts the OEM coolant sensor. Some people use the 30-6050, which does output the OEM coolant signal (Kings Motosports). I had to figure out a custom way to drive the gauge, which allowed me the flexibility to modify it's parameters.

 

Involves a Potentiometer perhaps?

 

yeah, i've done mine years ago.

Thinking of new colour at some point

 

That's pretty sick Karanx! Wish you wouldve recorded a diy video while you were doing all this as I personally think I'd eff something up if I took all that stuff apart

 

hmm need to do this on my cls.. want to go all amber thanks for listing all the #s

 

Was there anything special you had to do to the odometer display? I can't get it to light up, not sure why. Tried multiple LED, switching polarities, etc. I've never gotten them to light up.

 

^ This is a well-known problem with the TL. Remove the gauge cluster and replace the circuitboard on the back for the odometer display. ~$45. There are videos on youtube showing how to remove the cluster. It's not too terribly involved.

 

I never had any problems with them. I would switch back to the stock Halogens. If they don't work, then the board is probably bad.

 

Thanks for the suggestions. Found the video:
Looks like I'll be ordering 78147-S0K-A01 Print Panel for about $40

 

Hello! If you see this response, I'm wondering if you have any recollection of how you pulled out the little 12V 3mm bulbs for the Navi unit. They seem to be pretty well in there and I cannot get a grip on them and am afraid to press too hard and break the originals.

Thanks!

 

You have to disassemble the navi entirely, and solder in LED bulbs. You have to bend the leads to position them so they will be in the middle of the button.

 

I was afraid you would say that . I might leave that for another time. Finish up the other easier conversions first.

Thank you!

 

Resurrecting an old thread.

Anybody got links to quality LEDs? I used the ones linked above but most of them failed (blown or flickering) after a year or so and I want to redo them with something better.