attempted to install springs today.... big problems...
started with the back got the seat out and what not. wheels off, go to take the endlink off the sway bar, stripped the allen part of it. awesome. well got the other end of the link off figure i can just replace the link. got both the struts off, compress the springs and go to take the tops off. strip that allen key. like wtf? bought a brand new set of metric socket keys and they still stripped out on me.
so now my cars just chilling in my garage with its rear end up. really disappointed. don't know what to do right now. i have to get that end link and the only way im really gonna be able to get it off is with a grinder.
so my question is how bad is it to have that end link loose for a few days till i can get the part?
and i now have to def get the suspension installed professionally cause i ain't gonna do this again.
so now my cars just chilling in my garage with its rear end up. really disappointed. don't know what to do right now. i have to get that end link and the only way im really gonna be able to get it off is with a grinder.
so my question is how bad is it to have that end link loose for a few days till i can get the part?
and i now have to def get the suspension installed professionally cause i ain't gonna do this again.
The endlink will be fine till you get a new one.
You dont need to have it proffesionally done. The hardest part is removing them. Since you have done that already work thru it. It really helps to have a friend or a Vise to hold the strut. The key is to keep it still so no sideways pressure gets put on the allen. The allen shouldnt be turned, only the nut. any other pressure on the allen and they strip.
Get a vise grips as high up on the strut shaft as possible, place a rag up there and clamp it as tight as humanly possible. you can work thru it.
You dont need to have it proffesionally done. The hardest part is removing them. Since you have done that already work thru it. It really helps to have a friend or a Vise to hold the strut. The key is to keep it still so no sideways pressure gets put on the allen. The allen shouldnt be turned, only the nut. any other pressure on the allen and they strip.
Get a vise grips as high up on the strut shaft as possible, place a rag up there and clamp it as tight as humanly possible. you can work thru it.
You dont need to undo the endlinks to change the rear shocks/springs. There is a bracket on the opposite side of the lower shock mount that is held on by one 17mm bolt. Remove that bracket and the assembly comes off without messing with the sway bar links
Whenever you take apart one of those hex key/nut assemblies hit it with the impact wrench a few times to loosen it. Once it loosens up it will require less torque on the hex keys and avoid stripping it.
Whenever you take apart one of those hex key/nut assemblies hit it with the impact wrench a few times to loosen it. Once it loosens up it will require less torque on the hex keys and avoid stripping it.
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This one is the best https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168436
But where it says to remove the sway bar endlink follow my tip and remove the bracket on the opposite side of the shock mount. Its the bracket towards the front of the car which also has the brake line mounted. On my car the bolt on the end link is corroded and I wasnt able to remove it without stripping it. Also the shock assy clears better towards the front than the back when removing it
Couple of other tips:
- On the fronts completely remove the yoke from both the lower a-arm and the shock instead of from just the shock as shown in the Heim manual and the DIY. This makes it a lot easier to remove the shock and then to reinstall it later without needing someone to help. Otherwise someone needs to push down on the hub to get the assembly back in
- Use a jack to raise and lower the front a-arms so you can position the shock assembly in the correct spot to reinsert the bolts. This allows you to do the job with one person instead of 2
- Dont worry about removing the rear deck. Not necessary
But where it says to remove the sway bar endlink follow my tip and remove the bracket on the opposite side of the shock mount. Its the bracket towards the front of the car which also has the brake line mounted. On my car the bolt on the end link is corroded and I wasnt able to remove it without stripping it. Also the shock assy clears better towards the front than the back when removing it
Couple of other tips:
- On the fronts completely remove the yoke from both the lower a-arm and the shock instead of from just the shock as shown in the Heim manual and the DIY. This makes it a lot easier to remove the shock and then to reinstall it later without needing someone to help. Otherwise someone needs to push down on the hub to get the assembly back in
- Use a jack to raise and lower the front a-arms so you can position the shock assembly in the correct spot to reinsert the bolts. This allows you to do the job with one person instead of 2
- Dont worry about removing the rear deck. Not necessary
Originally Posted by flydog
This one is the best https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168436
But where it says to remove the sway bar endlink follow my tip and remove the bracket on the opposite side of the shock mount. Its the bracket towards the front of the car which also has the brake line mounted. On my car the bolt on the end link is corroded and I wasnt able to remove it without stripping it. Also the shock assy clears better towards the front than the back when removing it
Couple of other tips:
- On the fronts completely remove the yoke from both the lower a-arm and the shock instead of from just the shock as shown in the Heim manual and the DIY. This makes it a lot easier to remove the shock and then to reinstall it later without needing someone to help. Otherwise someone needs to push down on the hub to get the assembly back in
- Use a jack to raise and lower the front a-arms so you can position the shock assembly in the correct spot to reinsert the bolts. This allows you to do the job with one person instead of 2
- Dont worry about removing the rear deck. Not necessary
But where it says to remove the sway bar endlink follow my tip and remove the bracket on the opposite side of the shock mount. Its the bracket towards the front of the car which also has the brake line mounted. On my car the bolt on the end link is corroded and I wasnt able to remove it without stripping it. Also the shock assy clears better towards the front than the back when removing it
Couple of other tips:
- On the fronts completely remove the yoke from both the lower a-arm and the shock instead of from just the shock as shown in the Heim manual and the DIY. This makes it a lot easier to remove the shock and then to reinstall it later without needing someone to help. Otherwise someone needs to push down on the hub to get the assembly back in
- Use a jack to raise and lower the front a-arms so you can position the shock assembly in the correct spot to reinsert the bolts. This allows you to do the job with one person instead of 2
- Dont worry about removing the rear deck. Not necessary
well the diy i had said the end link now i got to buy a new one.
well its done,
IT LOOKS BAD ASS.
now i got to try to get it out of the garage.
pictures later, prob tomorrow, im tired as hell.
well its done,
IT LOOKS BAD ASS.
now i got to try to get it out of the garage.
pictures later, prob tomorrow, im tired as hell.
Originally Posted by demolition_x
well the diy i had said the end link now i got to buy a new one.
well its done,
IT LOOKS BAD ASS.
now i got to try to get it out of the garage.
pictures later, prob tomorrow, im tired as hell.
well its done,
IT LOOKS BAD ASS.
now i got to try to get it out of the garage.
pictures later, prob tomorrow, im tired as hell.
na man, i stripped it trying to get it off, and now i can't even tighten it. so when i get the part i ahev to cut it off with the dremel and then pop the new one in. shouldn't be that big of a pain.
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