03' TL Caliper replacement

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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 05:23 AM
  #1  
Super yooper's Avatar
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From: Gaylord, Michigan
03' TL Caliper replacement

Anybody fight getting caliper clips and pads back in on a TL?
Something I fought with and would up forcing the pads in but it doesn't seem like they will float properly when caliper (LR) is reinstalled.
Caliper, rotor and pads came from Autozone/Durlast...

Any tricks I'm missing?

Scott
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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 07:14 AM
  #2  
dreem1er's Avatar
deal with it
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From: Miami
did you compress the piston all the way? if its open a little bit it can be a bitch to put in with a new set of pads and rotors
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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 08:44 AM
  #3  
01tl4tl's Avatar
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You greased the new hardware so the pad end tabs slide easily?
and the inner and outer pads are in correct location
Try pressing down on bottem of pad-spring clip,,then insert top

pad MUST move slightly when in its clips or they wont move right when caliper is on

does the inner pad have 2 or 3 raised tabs on its back?
should have 1 on the end holding noise maker arm
usually another empty one at opposite end

IF you have 3rd tab in the top center
they are the wrong pads!
many makers used the rl pad back on the TL
- its 3rd tab hits our caliper piston before normal contact is made- pushing the pad crooked against the rotor
pad makes only half width contact to rotor

be sure to loosen, clean and lube the self-adjuster mechanism for park brakes
then adjust them to the new rotor/hub
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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 08:51 AM
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01tl4tl's Avatar
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reminder: the TL has a unique brake bleeding order
left front= driver front, then clockwise around the car
LF RF RR LR
its due to ABS plumbing..the old school `farthest first` is a thing of the past --
for modern cars

on new caliper install- prefill it as able before install
bleed it to get full of fluid-that protects its seal inside
then do the full normal 4 corner bleed

When you have a line open- as in caliper replacement
you MUST do 2 ABS stops from 45mph
if pedal firmer 2nd time= there was air hidden in abs controller--it happens to the best of us~
start at LF and rebleed all
probably some air bubbles waiting in LF but do them all for safety
brake fluid is cheap - use 1.5 qts on main flush,,the extra .5 ready for the 2nd time

note: brake fluid has a 6 month shelf life once opened and foil seal removed
moisture gets in and ruins it- wiki hygroscopic for that,, and why flushing brake fluid every year is really important to saving your life!
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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 08:55 AM
  #5  
01tl4tl's Avatar
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hey scott you dont mention if the car is new to you
register at www.owners.acura.com for free owner book download and more!
plus 1 800 382 2238 x5 tell them new owner, ask if all recalls taken care of
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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 11:49 AM
  #6  
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Do your new calipers include the brackets that the pads sit in? If not, it's usually rust build up that you have to remove. A media blaster works great, but use what you have.....file, sandpaper, dremel tool. If your brackets are part of your new caliper, check them really close for any dents or nicks that would cause the pad to bind. If everything still looks good, file or grind a small amount the ends/tabs on the pads. Just enough to make them fit well. Sometimes, the pad backing is stamped out pretty crudely. Where in the UP are you located?
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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 02:18 PM
  #7  
Skirmich's Avatar
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From: Baja, México.
This actually happened when painting the Rear Calipers, Since paint add up a bit of coat and space the rear pads could not sit with both Shims.

But if yours are not Painted its
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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 05:19 PM
  #8  
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From: Gaylord, Michigan
Thanks to everyone!

I will take all this out to the garage and get back to it. I will get back with my results.
TLer Trash - I'm from the Sault Ste Marie area but live in the Gaylord.
June 1 st and 48 degrees -
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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 06:14 PM
  #9  
TLer trash's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Super yooper
I will take all this out to the garage and get back to it. I will get back with my results.
TLer Trash - I'm from the Sault Ste Marie area but live in the Gaylord.
June 1 st and 48 degrees -
You're the first person in 2g that I've heard of from the UP. [not that there's anything wrong with that] I'm from Marquette, a lifetime ago, Chelsea now. Good luck with your brakes.
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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 09:30 PM
  #10  
Super yooper's Avatar
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From: Gaylord, Michigan
Thanks again everyone!
Got the brakes done. I did take the pads and ease the edges on my grinder and reinstalled. After bleeding air out and the road test with ABS stops, everything seems to be functioning great.
I would think remanufactured pads wouldn't have any problems but this set seemed to. I have always had good luck with the Duralast brand.
As a general note this is the first Acura I've owned (purchased 6/09) and it has proved to be a very well built (and fast! Type S) car.
Perhaps at some point in the near future I can be a help to someone on this forum....
Scott
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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 09:48 PM
  #11  
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telling us a prob and your fix= helping!
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