Replacing Ignition Lock Cylinder - Physical Key Stuck in Ignition!
Replacing Ignition Lock Cylinder - Physical Key Stuck in Ignition!
This is a weird one...
Has anyone had the lock cylinder in the ignition switch replaced before?
I ran into a weird situation today when I bought a genuine physical key from Acura and had it cut at a local key shop to one of my existing keys. Apparently, the cut was close enough that it worked in the doors and in the ignition to turn to ON and even to turn the motor, but now I CAN'T GET THE KEY OUT OF THE IGNITION! I can turn it to Start, and I can turn it to ON, and I can turn it to the accessory position, but turning it all the way to position 0 where you can pull the key out requires pushing in the key and cylinder before it will let you turn it back to the 0 position. Well, the pushing in part doesn't work, so I cannot return to the 0 position to get the key out!!!
Apparently the cut was not exact enough to be an identical match, so it's not letting me push in. I'm at a lost as to exactly what to do now, short of replacing the lock cylinder. I can't drill or cut the key out and I can't brute force it... there doesn't seem to be much I can do.
Does anyone have any suggestions? Or has anyone had the cylinder replaced? I know you get new keys if you buy a new cylinder, but then how do you get the door and glove box and pass through locks to match your new keys?
UGH!!! What a PITA!!! In hindsight, I should have just paid the full $75 to the local dealer for a new key that they cut for me, but I decided to go cheap and order the key blank from an online dealer for $30 instead and have a local key shop cut it for $3. BIG MISTAKE!
Any ideas?
Has anyone had the lock cylinder in the ignition switch replaced before?
I ran into a weird situation today when I bought a genuine physical key from Acura and had it cut at a local key shop to one of my existing keys. Apparently, the cut was close enough that it worked in the doors and in the ignition to turn to ON and even to turn the motor, but now I CAN'T GET THE KEY OUT OF THE IGNITION! I can turn it to Start, and I can turn it to ON, and I can turn it to the accessory position, but turning it all the way to position 0 where you can pull the key out requires pushing in the key and cylinder before it will let you turn it back to the 0 position. Well, the pushing in part doesn't work, so I cannot return to the 0 position to get the key out!!!
Apparently the cut was not exact enough to be an identical match, so it's not letting me push in. I'm at a lost as to exactly what to do now, short of replacing the lock cylinder. I can't drill or cut the key out and I can't brute force it... there doesn't seem to be much I can do.
Does anyone have any suggestions? Or has anyone had the cylinder replaced? I know you get new keys if you buy a new cylinder, but then how do you get the door and glove box and pass through locks to match your new keys?
UGH!!! What a PITA!!! In hindsight, I should have just paid the full $75 to the local dealer for a new key that they cut for me, but I decided to go cheap and order the key blank from an online dealer for $30 instead and have a local key shop cut it for $3. BIG MISTAKE!
Any ideas?
Last edited by Megatron; Feb 28, 2013 at 02:50 AM.
This used to happen to my 94 legend when we got a key cut by a local key cutter. Would take quite a while, alot of pushing and some finess to get it out of there
but heavy's idea may be the best bet. Sorry about your situation
but heavy's idea may be the best bet. Sorry about your situation
When i had made extra key for my -93 Legend i had little bit same kind problem, it was solved when i smooth those sharp edges of the key, it didnt stuck inside the lock but it was close to do so.
There was too sharp edges after cutting that they might "bite" on the "pins" inside the lock.
Also the length of the machined part of the key is important.
Ok, there is no "pins" inside our locks, i think, because the key looks like it is but principle is quite same on all locks.
There was too sharp edges after cutting that they might "bite" on the "pins" inside the lock.
Also the length of the machined part of the key is important.
Ok, there is no "pins" inside our locks, i think, because the key looks like it is but principle is quite same on all locks.

On a more serious note, I've tried wiggling the key in every direction while pushing, even pulling on the key itself while pushing, and it just won't budge. Just can't get it to push in. And without being able to push it, it's just impossible to turn it back.
The worst part is that now, not only is the key stuck and anyone can just take off in my car, but I also can't use the remote at all. And the absolutely worst part is that I can't shut the car completely off. My battery is draining like being in ACC mode all the time!
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I had someone get a key stuck in an older tl but it was a generic blank and the head of the key was too big to allow you to push it in all the way to remove it, had to take the lock cylinder out from the car and grind the sides of the key down far enough to allow it to be turned back to 0. It worked, although yours might require further dismantling of the lock cylinder to free the key up.
Well, as I suspected, the locksmith was not able to get the key out. He was able to get the switch back to the 0 position, but the key still wouldn't come out. Even with large pliers and yanking with all his weight behind it, it wouldn't budge.
He said all I can do now is replace the lock cylinder. UGH!
He said all I can do now is replace the lock cylinder. UGH!
I only had one working backup key in Fob 1. Fob 2 had a backup key from some other car, so I thought I'd get a second key made for Fob 2 that would actually be a working backup key so that I would have a complete pair of fobs and keys.
Of course, I tried to go the cheap route and now am gonna have to replace the ignition switch. What a pain! And then my other locks won't match the key for the new ignition switch either! UGHH!
Of course, I tried to go the cheap route and now am gonna have to replace the ignition switch. What a pain! And then my other locks won't match the key for the new ignition switch either! UGHH!
I think even with a new ignition switch, I think I will keep the orginal key in my fob because the chances of me need to open the door with a manual key is much greater than the chances of me needing to start the car with the manual key. So if the ignition and door have different manual keys, I think it's safer to have the door key than the ignition one.
But then again, if my fob battery dies, I guess I would be stuck if I had the door key only. Hmmm... now I'm torn!
Wonder if it's possible to rekey either the ignition tumbler or the door one.
But then again, if my fob battery dies, I guess I would be stuck if I had the door key only. Hmmm... now I'm torn!
Wonder if it's possible to rekey either the ignition tumbler or the door one.
Can typical locksmiths do that? I figured they wouldn't be able to dismantle the acura-specific ignition switch to get to the tumblers (or whatever) to rekey it back to the original key. Or can they??
Please help
I had this same problem. Went to Honda dealer to get some spare keys made. They screwed up cutting the keys, got one stuck in the lock. Now they want to replace the lock with an aftermarket affair. What to do?


That is NOT the same problem. You went to a Honda dealer. This should be their responsibility. You shouldn't owe them any more money than the cost of the keys. Threaten to sue, and mean it.
So, I have a 2008 RL, and went to a locksmith last week to cut a blank for me, and program a fob I got from Ebay. The tech managed to cut the key with no problem. He used it to start the car, but was unable to remove it afterwards. They basically sent me home like that and I'm waiting to hear back from the boss. The tech said it was a one in a million, and tried to suggest that the key blanks from Amazon are the problem. I can't really use the car, and I have to keep it on a battery charger now.
Another locksmith tells me that if this can't be removed, the entire ignition would need to be replaced. Is that right, or can they just replace the lock cylinder? Anybody done this before and know the cost? Thanks.
Another locksmith tells me that if this can't be removed, the entire ignition would need to be replaced. Is that right, or can they just replace the lock cylinder? Anybody done this before and know the cost? Thanks.
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