Good info. Being an Engineer, I bet this guy knows what he is talking about and appreciate his scientific approach to real life applications.

 

Castrol (I think my dealer recommended it!) 5W-20 syn. Changed, with filter, every 10,000 miles.

 

For those who want to read about motor oil until they turn cross-eyed, BobIsTheOilGuy.com is as good an info source as I've seen.

The short version: If you want oil that's good enough for long engine life, virtually any properly certified oil will do. If you want the best, you can't do better than Amsoil.

 

This is the only Oil I use in my RL and my TL.... no issues...

 

I think the question here really is: Is it any better, what's so better about it, do you feel more power, better gas economy, what?

no issues really isn't a good justification for spending double the money.

 

The analysis I posted mentions significantly less wear (or better lubrication) for synthetics. I believe the wear after 3k miles with dino oil was more than that from 7k miles with synthetic. I'm too tired to go back and look right now.

This is very similar to the numerous octane discussions we have had here. IMO, I don't see why I should skimp on these things to save a few bucks. If I was driving a corolla, I may feel differently (although I doubt it).

 

I agree with tnobori. The difference is in the wear.

I can get Mobil full synthetic, mobil filter and washers for under $60. Surely you can find better than that on the Internet. Like he also said, you fill up w/ premium right? Why pay the extra $$$ when the engine has knock sensors that will retard the ignition timing to prevent damage? The answer should be, " b/c I know it is best for my car." Goes for gas and oil.

 

when we're talking about wear, are we talking about going 200k or 500k?

in the end if might really mean nothing.

As with gas, you can feel your car perform better w/ 93 vs 87 right away.

For me it's fairly simple, I got a warranty up to 120k at which point I'll probably sell the car, so it gives me no reason to deviate from what Honda prescribes.

I think it's fair to assume that their stuff will not kill the car any sooner than synthetics or they would make it mandatory like some other car makers.

 

Actually I think the fair assumption is that they chose something that was not bad for the car; but I don't see why we should assume that Honda would require the best. Plenty of manufacturers are requiring synthetic now. Are we really surprised that Honda might not be ahead of the curve.

The increased distance intervals on oil changes makes synthetic more valuable, IMO.

 

037 describes the exact difference. If you don't drive cars that have over 120k mi on them, don't bother with synthetic. If you want your engine to outlast the car, use synthetic.

 

Nothing like sharing a pint among friends, and your RL! Good call tnobori1, Beamish is another good choice.

 

Wow, that's pretty steep where you live. I just bought the oil and filter over the weekend for $32.99. It's a pretty good deal considering they usually charge $34 for the jug alone, the filter is $12.99. Sale goes through 5/25. Link to the flyer is here...not sure if you have a store in your area, though.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...May-2011-Flyer___

 

Awesome deal... definitely hitting that up.

 

You are absolutly right that this isn't good justification, but from my personal experience of running a 2000 acura 3.2 TL from 78000 kms to currently 250000 kms, with no engine or tranny issues, and the car still runs like butter... i have been running amsoil in this car from day one for both engine and transmission fluids....

i also had a 2005 RL which i bought with 103,000 kms on it and it had 180,000 2 months ago when i got into a bad accident and it was written off... this car also ran like butter and i had amsoil in it from day one as well...... engine, transmission and rear diff......

I now own a 2007 Acura RL A-SPEC in Platinum Frost Metallic, and i plan on switching all fluids in this one to amsoil too
I guess its just personal preferance in my case and good experience..

 

Yes experience is the best advice.

 

So in conclusion:
Syn is better than dino but it costs more and does not result in any advantage. The engine will outlast the rest of the car and outlast your ownership with either oil. I asked, a long time ago on this thread, if anyone had any issues attributed to oil and NOBODY has claimed a "yes".
Amsoil maybe the best but if your car outlasts your ownership even with Honda oil then what is the return on the larger investment?

 

ROI = a smug grin when you go to sleep knowing your car is the best ever b/c you use synthetic. Isn't it worth it? lol

 

EXactly how i feel

 

I use mobil1 syn 5w-20, I get a 5qt jug at Walmart for $25 and bought a K&N filter for $8 on amazon.

http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/

This is also a good investment if you don't even want to deal with washers and getting oil on your hands/arms/garage floor.

There are a lot of amsoil fans here and I used to run it on my S2000, I'm not pushing my RL nearly as hard as my S so I think Mobil1 is fine. My friend races motox and puts amsoil in everything that requires oil and swears by it, but then again he is sponsored by them.

 

I use Amsoil 0w-20. It was in the car yesterday for over 30 laps going full bore at Nelson Ledges Road Course, no hiccups at 66k.

 

Do tell more about that and how your car is set up, tires, etc.

 

I was thinking I should start a thread about it. I don't want to thread jack.

 

$25 for 5bottles is this worth it? is acura/honda all switching over to 0w-20?

 

That's a pretty good deal, IMHO. I can't attest to if they are all changing over or not, but it may just be a byproduct of wanting to go synthetic. Conventional can't hit 0-weight viscosity. If Honda is moving to synthetic naturally, then it only makes sense to use the lowest winter rating to ensure the best protection at low temperature start-ups.

 

I decided to go with Mobile1 Extended performance unless there is a huge issue with using this oil on our RL!~?!?

Pricing is about $45 for 5qts and mobile1 extended performance filter....

 

A very informative post, thanks. I think this is the only part that wasn't accurate.

 

This is what I put in my TL and redline ATF in its tranny. I will go the same route for my RL.

 

Mobile 1 Synthetic with Mobile 1 oil filter of course... quite happy!

 

You are right. This is an old idea that is long gone along with the 3k mi oil change. You can safely run conventional every summer and synthetic every winter without issue. I guess I learned this after posting.

Another thing I learned is there is a conditioner in conventional oil that is not in synthetic. It is best to run conventional in a new car for the first 20k miles to condition the seals before switching over to synthetic. Not doing so can lead to burning oil.

At least this is what "Bob is the oil guy" has taught me, and he knows his stuff.

 

Interesting. Didn't know that. Thanks for the heads-up, 007.