Ok guys, im new here, but just went through the ringer with a shop, when it came time to replace my old worn out motor mounts on my 2005 acura RL. At 200k when i went to have my timing belt done, my tech told me my motor mounts had excessive play. He recommended i replace both motor mounts and both trans mounts, and he gave me a very fair price for all 4 including labor, and I gave him the go ahead. fast fwd to the day i pick up the car, in part with the motor running the car is vibration like crazy, fells fine on the highway but still has a noticeable rumble to it, you can feel it all over the car, in the steering wheel, not major but enough to annoy you, and it was deff not there prior to changing all the mounts. So i bring it back to him, he says we just used the cheap aftermarket mounts, and that they all look firm and he sees no issues. This was not acceptable to me, i bought the RL because it floats like a pillow and this was not the same car i purchased. I went and bought different aftermarket motor mounts from Oreillys for about $50 each, replaced all 4 myself and same thing, vibration from everywhere. then after some research and seeing that the OEM acura motor mounts from the dealer are almost 10x more than the cheap aftermarket ones, i decided to drop $750 on dealer mounts, and that is what solved my vibration. The aftermarkets ones do not regulate vacuum and the OEM ones do, moral of the story, don't cheap out on parts, i just wanted to share my experience with all you guys, in hopes that it will save you some time, money, and headache in the future down the line at some point. If you aren't picky, the aftermarket ones keep the motor in place with no issues, but they do not dampen out the engine vibration at a stop, which the OEM ones are designed to do through vacuum control. Hope this helps
Cameron

 

The cliff notes:

• Bought cheap mounts, had problems.
• Bought OEM mounts, no problems.

 

I would like to see what 200,000 mile motor mounts look like.

 

I got the same advice from my mechanic, and others have reported the same thing in these forums. If I remember correctly, the OEM mounts are liquid-filled to absorb vibration, but because they have rubber, eventually oxidation and age make them rot and split. My guy told me to spring for the good ones, since the cheapies are less comfortable for the same reason they're longer-lived: stiffer materials.

 

That's a pretty accurate TL;DR.

 

We could have saved you some time if you only asked here before doing it ... even searching this forum you would find a topic related to engine mounts.
Engine Mounts are an absolute must to go OEM... it can be local shop installing/replacing it - but parts must be OEM in this case ...

Glad nothing worse happened and you were able to fix it properly, with some extra cash, but it will now last you np next few years...

 

To piggy back on this existing thread, I am currently having a motor mount issue where my 1st to 2nd shifts are rough. I plan on replacing the mounts with OEMs, however now I am having a problem where my speedo stops working, dash lights up (sometimes) and the car shutters and shifts even harder. The first time the D light was flashing but it's happend a few times since then without the flashing light. Now I'm not sure what to do first, motor mount or speed sensor. or move onto something else.

 

Blinking D may be one of them gear switches... look it up on the forum... you got any codes at all?

 

I had one transmission and motor mount, couple suspension parts, and the output sensor changed and my first to second is smoother but it's still kind of grabbing hard. I will be looking into those switches.