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Looking to replace my alternator so did a search in the forums and didn't see any specifics on best method. Did a search on you tube and a couple of folks removed the fan assembly. Is that the best method? Another video said you can squeeze it out towards the fender though it showed no details. Any advice or a link to some details would be appreciated. I found a local rebuilder with a great reputation so I'll bring it there instead of going to the auto parts chains. Thanks!
These are the instructions for removing the alternator for the 4G TL. However, it's going to be very similar if not totally identical on any J-series V6, which the RL uses as well as the MDX, RDX, TL, Accord V6, etc. There may be a difference in location of the radiator overflow tank, which may have to be removed. Otherwise, I don't see it being much different between the TL and RL. Those instructions don't include removing the belt. That's relatively easy. It's just a matter of attaching a breaker bar or long ratchet to the tensioner pulley (14mm bolt I believe) and pushing forward. That will ease the tension on the belt after which it can be removed from the alternator pulley.
It would be pretty difficult to remove the alternator without removing the passenger side fan. It's only attached by four bolts (two on the top of the radiator, two on the bottom) along with the electrical connection. Make sure to be careful not to hit the radiator fins when you remove the alternator.
I just replaced mine and it wasn't too bad. The worst part was accessing the lower bolt on the radiator.
Here's an update. Removed alternator and brought it to the shop. They replaced the brushes and said it was good to go. Installed it on the car and the volts read a steady 14.2 with nothing on. Then I still see the Check Charging System light on. Uh no, not again. Does that light need to be reset or should it go off by itself if system is OK?
I put all accessories on it dropped down to low mid 13 volts but revving the engine the volts came up to 14 again.
I drove the car 20 minutes and seems to run just fine.
That's odd. I was under the impression that the light was totally dependent on the voltage the alternator is putting out. However, that's apparently not true because yours is putting out correct voltage and the light is on AND when mine was going out, it was only putting out 12.5V and the light didn't come on. The only way I knew it was going out was from the diode buzz which fluctuated with RPM's. Strange.
You could try to reset the ECU, but I'd also make sure you check all the connections to the alternator and cables that go from the alternator to other components. There are three connections to the alternator, all of which need to be clean and well connected. I'd recommend using some CRC quick-dry electronic cleaner whenever reconnecting electronic connections, just to make sure they're clean and any debris introduced during disconnection is removed prior to reconnecting. You can use brake cleaner as an alternative but it corrodes plastic and can damage paint so it's not the best idea.
Last edited by losiglow; Oct 10, 2018 at 09:50 AM.
The problem has been solved. I went to Napa and ordered a reman Denso alternator . Installed and light is gone. Looks like the original alternator was still having voltage spikes so didn't want to mess with it anymore.
This time the R&R took 30 minutes. I didn't removed the fan. I just removed the overflow tank and moved the PS resoiver to the side and squeezed the alternator on the fender side. So much easier .
The regulator on the alternator was potentially bad. The regulator regulates output voltage and should adjust accordingly. My guess is the car is new enough that is controls the voltage output via ECM, and perhaps it asked the alternator to adjust voltage and didn't see the adjustment. Kinda crazy, but glad you got it fixed. OEM parts are very expensive now due to tariffs and age.
