2017 Acura rdx power loss
2017 Acura rdx power loss
I dropped the positive amp wire coming from the positive terminal on the battery in my air intake and it cause my acura 2017 to lose all power. Please help!!
So the 100 amp main and 120 alt fuses are located where the red circles are. Have you ever heard of acura making a fuse box that opens up kind of like a tackle box? I had an AI tell me that is where those fuses are 100 main and 120 alt were under the first level in the second level???????
So the 100 amp main and 120 alt fuses are located where the red circles are. Have you ever heard of acura making a fuse box that opens up kind of like a tackle box? I had an AI tell me that is where those fuses are 100 main and 120 alt were under the first level in the second level???????
Be wary about using AI to help diagnose specific technical problems, as it is prone to give advice that isnt 100% acurate for your vehicle but state it as fact.
I had an electrical issue I was trying to diagnose 3 months ago when one of my CAN sniffing tools shorted out and caused my entire infotainment + climate control + key fob to stop working,
Even when I requested specific information for my exact year, make, and model... the fuse # and locations to check were all wrong.
At a high level for diagnostic and troubleshooting it was correct "check for a latched-off IG state, or blown Accessory Power, etc.," but using it as a step-by-step guide was a fool's errand.
LLMs will commonly use generic and aggregated information instead of vehicle-specific or service manual-level specificity, which would be required to fully troubleshoot which wires go where.
I had an electrical issue I was trying to diagnose 3 months ago when one of my CAN sniffing tools shorted out and caused my entire infotainment + climate control + key fob to stop working,
Even when I requested specific information for my exact year, make, and model... the fuse # and locations to check were all wrong.
At a high level for diagnostic and troubleshooting it was correct "check for a latched-off IG state, or blown Accessory Power, etc.," but using it as a step-by-step guide was a fool's errand.
LLMs will commonly use generic and aggregated information instead of vehicle-specific or service manual-level specificity, which would be required to fully troubleshoot which wires go where.
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Not trying to be a prick, but if you're unfamiliar with something as basic as fuse testing, you're better off hiring someone to help. Very easy to screw something up and make your problem worse if you don't know what you're doing with vehicle electronics.
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