Subwoofer poor, 2012 vs 2014 models
Subwoofer poor, 2012 vs 2014 models
I have a 2012 RDX Tech Package nearing its lease end so I have been looking at the 2014 Tech Package model which I like very much. Except I am very disappointed with the 2014 Tech Package subwoofer performance. In my 2012, the subwoofer is amazing, I can really feel it, actually I have it just above mid-setting as it is so strong. In the 2014, the subwoofer sound is almost non-existent, even at max level! Changing level does almost nothing. How come? Isn't it the same radio unit from 2012 to 2014? Very disappointing as I like a lot of sub bass in my music. Any comments?
I too had noticed the new RDX had weaker bass compared to my old 07 RDX at first. But I think it was because I was using the bluetooth audio. There is a loss of sound quality in that mode. Now I plug in with USB and the system seems fine.
I think it depends on what you play, and through what means. Have you tried playing dvd audio. It really shines in that mode I notice. Also I notice sometimes if you use prologic setting on, it might reduce bass response, but really depends on how good the source is and how it was encoded.
I have a 2012 RDX Tech Package nearing its lease end so I have been looking at the 2014 Tech Package model which I like very much. Except I am very disappointed with the 2014 Tech Package subwoofer performance. In my 2012, the subwoofer is amazing, I can really feel it, actually I have it just above mid-setting as it is so strong. In the 2014, the subwoofer sound is almost non-existent, even at max level! Changing level does almost nothing. How come? Isn't it the same radio unit from 2012 to 2014? Very disappointing as I like a lot of sub bass in my music. Any comments?
I've talked to a cousin who works at a local car audio shop and said that the stock subwoofer will never give the deep bass or solid kick that you'd expect from a good subwoofer. He said that there are 2 main problems with the subwoofer: 1) not enough speaker power going to the sub and 2) the sub was not built for the nature of loud bass. He said the system isn't terribly bad, but it's more on the side of medium acoustic enjoyment. And I agree, I can play the Eagles Live CD and it sounds fantastic, but when I try to put in music from say old school DJ Quick, I can't get it to pound out that hard hitting bass.
The best thing that I've seen anybody do to try to get that bass was to switch out the entire system and put in all aftermarket speakers and amps. So basically it comes down to replacing and paying for a new system, if you do want to go for loud/deep bass.
I had started to look into a mild update to the sub by itself as the rest of the system I think sounds pretty good. Was originally thinking just a mono amp to boost sub output and possibly swapping the sub itself to something higher quality if required. I didn't want much more, just a little extra punch.
Unfortunately what I'm finding is that the noise cancellation system is primarily, if not totally run through the sub to counteract low frequency road noise. Amping the sub would then not only negate but actually amplify the road and engine noise. Apparently it's a fairly common issue when installing aftermarket subs in TLs like this: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/big-problems-need-help-sub-noise-cancellation-609759/. Granted that's an older car, but I don't think the system setup has changed much since inception as it's always seemed to work well.
So it seems if you want to go aftermarket, you'll also have to live without noise cancellation.
For me personally, the quiet ride is a big reason I like the car. If I have to introduce a whole bunch of extra noise to get a little extra bass, I think I'll just deal with the existing system. If you're looking for big bass gains to the point where it would drown out any extra road noise anyway, it could still be an option though.
Unfortunately what I'm finding is that the noise cancellation system is primarily, if not totally run through the sub to counteract low frequency road noise. Amping the sub would then not only negate but actually amplify the road and engine noise. Apparently it's a fairly common issue when installing aftermarket subs in TLs like this: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/big-problems-need-help-sub-noise-cancellation-609759/. Granted that's an older car, but I don't think the system setup has changed much since inception as it's always seemed to work well.
So it seems if you want to go aftermarket, you'll also have to live without noise cancellation.
For me personally, the quiet ride is a big reason I like the car. If I have to introduce a whole bunch of extra noise to get a little extra bass, I think I'll just deal with the existing system. If you're looking for big bass gains to the point where it would drown out any extra road noise anyway, it could still be an option though.
I added a 10 inch sealed Sub and a JL audio Hi Lvl input amp.
Tried for quite a while to find a work around for the Noise Cancellation feature and the best work around is to stay off of the OEM sub hi lvl. Mean Humm at throttling engine rpm.
Pick off of the rear speaker to feed that hi lvl into the new amp.
Wow awesome results, now I can adjust the bass to over the top or just right and anything in between.
Tried for quite a while to find a work around for the Noise Cancellation feature and the best work around is to stay off of the OEM sub hi lvl. Mean Humm at throttling engine rpm.
Pick off of the rear speaker to feed that hi lvl into the new amp.
Wow awesome results, now I can adjust the bass to over the top or just right and anything in between.
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Seems like the TL guys turned off the noise cancellation first by disconnecting the pickup mics in the cabin ceiling, but eventually by just disconnecting the noise cancellation control unit.
Carazy, do you have your sub mounted somewhere, or do you just have the box laying the cargo area?
Carazy, do you have your sub mounted somewhere, or do you just have the box laying the cargo area?
I have a JL Audio 500/1 amp along with a JL w7, installed myself with a JL Audio cleansweep and signal summing interface. I also disconnected the noise cancellation control unit under the center console. I disconnected the factory sub as well
My music is simply amazing in my 2013 RDX Tech and still running the factory speakers
My music is simply amazing in my 2013 RDX Tech and still running the factory speakers
I have a JL Audio 500/1 amp along with a JL w7, installed myself with a JL Audio cleansweep and signal summing interface. I also disconnected the noise cancellation control unit under the center console. I disconnected the factory sub as well
My music is simply amazing in my 2013 RDX Tech and still running the factory speakers
My music is simply amazing in my 2013 RDX Tech and still running the factory speakers
I never really thought about doing a guide but I guess I could if I ever get around to it. I used to do installs maybe 6 years ago or so I had some knowledge to help me along the way.
There is a rubber grommet at the firewall right behind the glove box. I used that to pass my power wire through. As far as ground, you can take out the bottom cushion rear seat and use one of the seatbelt bolts to get your ground but make sure you sand away some paint to get contact with bare metal
If you need help just let me know
There is a rubber grommet at the firewall right behind the glove box. I used that to pass my power wire through. As far as ground, you can take out the bottom cushion rear seat and use one of the seatbelt bolts to get your ground but make sure you sand away some paint to get contact with bare metal
If you need help just let me know
Thanks for all the posts. I ended up getting a 2014 RDX Base model. I compared the sound systems in the Tech & Base models and yes, the Tech system is better, but not by much. Both systems have very average bass. Also, I have no need for Nav, power liftgate, or built in disc storage for CDs (as I have all mt CDs on my IPod which works fine). By the way, in Canada the RDX Base model has HID lights & fog lights. I am very happy with my decision.
I added a 10 inch sealed Sub and a JL audio Hi Lvl input amp.
Tried for quite a while to find a work around for the Noise Cancellation feature and the best work around is to stay off of the OEM sub hi lvl. Mean Humm at throttling engine rpm.
Pick off of the rear speaker to feed that hi lvl into the new amp.
Wow awesome results, now I can adjust the bass to over the top or just right and anything in between.
Tried for quite a while to find a work around for the Noise Cancellation feature and the best work around is to stay off of the OEM sub hi lvl. Mean Humm at throttling engine rpm.
Pick off of the rear speaker to feed that hi lvl into the new amp.
Wow awesome results, now I can adjust the bass to over the top or just right and anything in between.

I added a JL Audio XD600/1 amplifier to boost the bass audio to my newly added JL Audio W3V3 sealed speaker.
The existing audio signal from to the oem amplifier to the existing oem sub-woofer speaker was tapped for a Hi level input into my new add in amplifier and although it sounded excellent I did not want to disable noise cancellation feature, therefore I stayed off of that circuit. The signal that is currently being used is coming from the driver side rear door speaker. I am very happy with the results.
Oh yea and the buzzing noise makes the audio signal unusable as it gets super loud at certain RPM's, think that happens because the noise cancelation is optimized for engine noise? I can disable the noise cancelation feature, but choose not to do that.
The existing audio signal from to the oem amplifier to the existing oem sub-woofer speaker was tapped for a Hi level input into my new add in amplifier and although it sounded excellent I did not want to disable noise cancellation feature, therefore I stayed off of that circuit. The signal that is currently being used is coming from the driver side rear door speaker. I am very happy with the results.
Oh yea and the buzzing noise makes the audio signal unusable as it gets super loud at certain RPM's, think that happens because the noise cancelation is optimized for engine noise? I can disable the noise cancelation feature, but choose not to do that.
Last edited by Carazy; Dec 23, 2013 at 08:20 PM.
I added a JL Audio XD600/1 amplifier to boost the bass audio to my newly added JL Audio W3V3 sealed speaker.
The existing audio signal from to the oem amplifier to the existing oem sub-woofer speaker was tapped for a Hi level input into my new add in amplifier and although it sounded excellent I did not want to disable noise cancellation feature, therefore I stayed off of that circuit. The signal that is currently being used is coming from the driver side rear door speaker. I am very happy with the results.
Oh yea and the buzzing noise makes the audio signal unusable as it gets super loud at certain RPM's, think that happens because the noise cancelation is optimized for engine noise? I can disable the noise cancelation feature, but choose not to do that.
The existing audio signal from to the oem amplifier to the existing oem sub-woofer speaker was tapped for a Hi level input into my new add in amplifier and although it sounded excellent I did not want to disable noise cancellation feature, therefore I stayed off of that circuit. The signal that is currently being used is coming from the driver side rear door speaker. I am very happy with the results.
Oh yea and the buzzing noise makes the audio signal unusable as it gets super loud at certain RPM's, think that happens because the noise cancelation is optimized for engine noise? I can disable the noise cancelation feature, but choose not to do that.
do you know if the front door speakers put out the same base as the rear door speakers as im going to put my amp up front somewhere & the front speakers would b closer not sure if they have a different crossover point?. getting air conditioned seats installed next week & I will b able to see under the center consol when they pop the top off to install new switches that's where I want to mount my amp.
I just finished my sub up grade I used a kicker comp 8" 2 ohm with a 300w NVX amp all mounted in factory location I used the old sub speaker wires as inputs & unplugged the active noise unit under the center consol way more base than you need & I still have full control over it with the audio settings on the nav screen
Reading through this thread.. has anyone actually compared the interior noise with and without the noise cancellation enabled? With no music playing? Does it really make that big of a difference?
Both carazy and dmaxv8 have good options. Someone mentioned if you run your sub off the door speaker wire you lose control to adjust the bass through the console. Is that the case? And someone else asked if the full audio range is delivered to the door speaker, i.e i the cross over prior to the speaker.. anyone know about that? It would be nice to keep sound cancelling if it actually made a difference when you have no music playing but with dmaxv8s option you can also use the factory mounts and hide everything easier.
Hmm.
Both carazy and dmaxv8 have good options. Someone mentioned if you run your sub off the door speaker wire you lose control to adjust the bass through the console. Is that the case? And someone else asked if the full audio range is delivered to the door speaker, i.e i the cross over prior to the speaker.. anyone know about that? It would be nice to keep sound cancelling if it actually made a difference when you have no music playing but with dmaxv8s option you can also use the factory mounts and hide everything easier.
Hmm.
I see another pic from you under the center console but I don't recognize what go under there?
Noise cancellation subwoofer/rear speaker not OEM
Hi, if I just change the subwoofer with a better one (no amp, nothing.. ) the noise cancellation will still work? or only work with OEM subwoofer?
and 2, I will change my 4 speakers with infinity one. If I tap the rear speaker with the signal like you did, it will work (no amp) ? or only work with OEM speaker?
Thanks
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