Subwoofer poor, 2012 vs 2014 models

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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 08:17 AM
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Subwoofer poor, 2012 vs 2014 models

I have a 2012 RDX Tech Package nearing its lease end so I have been looking at the 2014 Tech Package model which I like very much. Except I am very disappointed with the 2014 Tech Package subwoofer performance. In my 2012, the subwoofer is amazing, I can really feel it, actually I have it just above mid-setting as it is so strong. In the 2014, the subwoofer sound is almost non-existent, even at max level! Changing level does almost nothing. How come? Isn't it the same radio unit from 2012 to 2014? Very disappointing as I like a lot of sub bass in my music. Any comments?
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Old Oct 17, 2013 | 12:41 PM
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I too had noticed the new RDX had weaker bass compared to my old 07 RDX at first. But I think it was because I was using the bluetooth audio. There is a loss of sound quality in that mode. Now I plug in with USB and the system seems fine.
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Old Oct 17, 2013 | 01:08 PM
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I think it depends on what you play, and through what means. Have you tried playing dvd audio. It really shines in that mode I notice. Also I notice sometimes if you use prologic setting on, it might reduce bass response, but really depends on how good the source is and how it was encoded.
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Old Oct 17, 2013 | 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by DougMontreal
I have a 2012 RDX Tech Package nearing its lease end so I have been looking at the 2014 Tech Package model which I like very much. Except I am very disappointed with the 2014 Tech Package subwoofer performance. In my 2012, the subwoofer is amazing, I can really feel it, actually I have it just above mid-setting as it is so strong. In the 2014, the subwoofer sound is almost non-existent, even at max level! Changing level does almost nothing. How come? Isn't it the same radio unit from 2012 to 2014? Very disappointing as I like a lot of sub bass in my music. Any comments?
I've played with all the settings on the head unit to get the bass up, and you're right, it's not that powerful. My friend has and older 2010 RDX, and I feel her subwoofer kicked harder than the one found on my 2013 RDX Tech ELS package.

I've talked to a cousin who works at a local car audio shop and said that the stock subwoofer will never give the deep bass or solid kick that you'd expect from a good subwoofer. He said that there are 2 main problems with the subwoofer: 1) not enough speaker power going to the sub and 2) the sub was not built for the nature of loud bass. He said the system isn't terribly bad, but it's more on the side of medium acoustic enjoyment. And I agree, I can play the Eagles Live CD and it sounds fantastic, but when I try to put in music from say old school DJ Quick, I can't get it to pound out that hard hitting bass.

The best thing that I've seen anybody do to try to get that bass was to switch out the entire system and put in all aftermarket speakers and amps. So basically it comes down to replacing and paying for a new system, if you do want to go for loud/deep bass.
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Old Oct 18, 2013 | 09:46 AM
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I had started to look into a mild update to the sub by itself as the rest of the system I think sounds pretty good. Was originally thinking just a mono amp to boost sub output and possibly swapping the sub itself to something higher quality if required. I didn't want much more, just a little extra punch.
Unfortunately what I'm finding is that the noise cancellation system is primarily, if not totally run through the sub to counteract low frequency road noise. Amping the sub would then not only negate but actually amplify the road and engine noise. Apparently it's a fairly common issue when installing aftermarket subs in TLs like this: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/big-problems-need-help-sub-noise-cancellation-609759/. Granted that's an older car, but I don't think the system setup has changed much since inception as it's always seemed to work well.
So it seems if you want to go aftermarket, you'll also have to live without noise cancellation.

For me personally, the quiet ride is a big reason I like the car. If I have to introduce a whole bunch of extra noise to get a little extra bass, I think I'll just deal with the existing system. If you're looking for big bass gains to the point where it would drown out any extra road noise anyway, it could still be an option though.
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Old Oct 20, 2013 | 06:42 AM
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Can we turn off the noise cancellation system?
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 04:03 AM
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I added a 10 inch sealed Sub and a JL audio Hi Lvl input amp.

Tried for quite a while to find a work around for the Noise Cancellation feature and the best work around is to stay off of the OEM sub hi lvl. Mean Humm at throttling engine rpm.

Pick off of the rear speaker to feed that hi lvl into the new amp.

Wow awesome results, now I can adjust the bass to over the top or just right and anything in between.
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 07:53 AM
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Seems like the TL guys turned off the noise cancellation first by disconnecting the pickup mics in the cabin ceiling, but eventually by just disconnecting the noise cancellation control unit.

Carazy, do you have your sub mounted somewhere, or do you just have the box laying the cargo area?
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 08:26 PM
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It's a box laying in the cargo area.
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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 12:17 PM
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I have a JL Audio 500/1 amp along with a JL w7, installed myself with a JL Audio cleansweep and signal summing interface. I also disconnected the noise cancellation control unit under the center console. I disconnected the factory sub as well


My music is simply amazing in my 2013 RDX Tech and still running the factory speakers
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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by dc5k20z1
I have a JL Audio 500/1 amp along with a JL w7, installed myself with a JL Audio cleansweep and signal summing interface. I also disconnected the noise cancellation control unit under the center console. I disconnected the factory sub as well


My music is simply amazing in my 2013 RDX Tech and still running the factory speakers
Thanks for the info! Would you consider writing up a guide for doing this? I'm thinking of installing an aftermarket sub/amp and knowing where to run the power wire through the firewall and little details such as the noise cancellation system would help out a lot.
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Old Oct 25, 2013 | 04:34 PM
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I never really thought about doing a guide but I guess I could if I ever get around to it. I used to do installs maybe 6 years ago or so I had some knowledge to help me along the way.

There is a rubber grommet at the firewall right behind the glove box. I used that to pass my power wire through. As far as ground, you can take out the bottom cushion rear seat and use one of the seatbelt bolts to get your ground but make sure you sand away some paint to get contact with bare metal

If you need help just let me know
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Old Nov 2, 2013 | 05:51 AM
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Thanks for all the posts. I ended up getting a 2014 RDX Base model. I compared the sound systems in the Tech & Base models and yes, the Tech system is better, but not by much. Both systems have very average bass. Also, I have no need for Nav, power liftgate, or built in disc storage for CDs (as I have all mt CDs on my IPod which works fine). By the way, in Canada the RDX Base model has HID lights & fog lights. I am very happy with my decision.
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 01:47 PM
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nice pickup. enjoy the new car.

wish the US base models came with those options. probably cause there's more rain up north?
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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Carazy
I added a 10 inch sealed Sub and a JL audio Hi Lvl input amp.

Tried for quite a while to find a work around for the Noise Cancellation feature and the best work around is to stay off of the OEM sub hi lvl. Mean Humm at throttling engine rpm.

Pick off of the rear speaker to feed that hi lvl into the new amp.

Wow awesome results, now I can adjust the bass to over the top or just right and anything in between.
im doing the same thing im adding a all in 1 sub hi level input amp what do you mean by stay off the factory sub I was going to tap those lines for my hi level in put? will it make a buzzing noise? did you tap off the rear door speaker? rdx is not at home for me to look at right now. thanks
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Old Dec 23, 2013 | 08:07 PM
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I added a JL Audio XD600/1 amplifier to boost the bass audio to my newly added JL Audio W3V3 sealed speaker.


The existing audio signal from to the oem amplifier to the existing oem sub-woofer speaker was tapped for a Hi level input into my new add in amplifier and although it sounded excellent I did not want to disable noise cancellation feature, therefore I stayed off of that circuit. The signal that is currently being used is coming from the driver side rear door speaker. I am very happy with the results.


Oh yea and the buzzing noise makes the audio signal unusable as it gets super loud at certain RPM's, think that happens because the noise cancelation is optimized for engine noise? I can disable the noise cancelation feature, but choose not to do that.

Last edited by Carazy; Dec 23, 2013 at 08:20 PM.
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Old Dec 25, 2013 | 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Carazy
I added a JL Audio XD600/1 amplifier to boost the bass audio to my newly added JL Audio W3V3 sealed speaker.


The existing audio signal from to the oem amplifier to the existing oem sub-woofer speaker was tapped for a Hi level input into my new add in amplifier and although it sounded excellent I did not want to disable noise cancellation feature, therefore I stayed off of that circuit. The signal that is currently being used is coming from the driver side rear door speaker. I am very happy with the results.


Oh yea and the buzzing noise makes the audio signal unusable as it gets super loud at certain RPM's, think that happens because the noise cancelation is optimized for engine noise? I can disable the noise cancelation feature, but choose not to do that.
so you still get the buzzing noise when using the rear door speaker for your hi level input? I don't want to disable my noise canceling feature
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 01:10 AM
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Noise Cancel signal is fed to the Sub-Woofer circuit and not the rear door speaker. Tap the rear door speaker like I did.
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 04:18 PM
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do you know if the front door speakers put out the same base as the rear door speakers as im going to put my amp up front somewhere & the front speakers would b closer not sure if they have a different crossover point?. getting air conditioned seats installed next week & I will b able to see under the center consol when they pop the top off to install new switches that's where I want to mount my amp.
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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 07:26 PM
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I just finished my sub up grade I used a kicker comp 8" 2 ohm with a 300w NVX amp all mounted in factory location I used the old sub speaker wires as inputs & unplugged the active noise unit under the center consol way more base than you need & I still have full control over it with the audio settings on the nav screen
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Old Feb 6, 2014 | 10:52 AM
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Do you notice the lack of noise cancellation with it unplugged? Or do you just have the music turned up and don't even notice?
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Old Feb 6, 2014 | 10:56 AM
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I drove around before & after listing to the same song on the same road & their was no difference that I could hear. its a simple plug no cutting wires so it can b put back in 20 seconds
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Old Feb 6, 2014 | 10:59 AM
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plug by drivers side lower center consol
Attached Thumbnails Subwoofer poor, 2012 vs 2014 models-100_1943-1024x768-.jpg  
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Old Feb 17, 2014 | 12:00 PM
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How did you mount the new sub? Did you simply replace the woofer in the factory enclosure or did you make/buy a new enclosure? TIA
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Old Feb 24, 2014 | 07:31 PM
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I just put the new sub in the factory enclosure it is only 4" deep max & 7.375 wide (the opening )so buy a sub that fits that cut out I ran new heavy wires from my amp into the factory enclosure
Attached Thumbnails Subwoofer poor, 2012 vs 2014 models-100_1946-1024x768-.jpg  
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Old Jun 4, 2014 | 01:32 PM
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Reading through this thread.. has anyone actually compared the interior noise with and without the noise cancellation enabled? With no music playing? Does it really make that big of a difference?

Both carazy and dmaxv8 have good options. Someone mentioned if you run your sub off the door speaker wire you lose control to adjust the bass through the console. Is that the case? And someone else asked if the full audio range is delivered to the door speaker, i.e i the cross over prior to the speaker.. anyone know about that? It would be nice to keep sound cancelling if it actually made a difference when you have no music playing but with dmaxv8s option you can also use the factory mounts and hide everything easier.

Hmm.
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Old Jun 17, 2014 | 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by dmaxv8
I just put the new sub in the factory enclosure it is only 4" deep max & 7.375 wide (the opening )so buy a sub that fits that cut out I ran new heavy wires from my amp into the factory enclosure
Can you tell how do you power the amp? Do you use factory power wires? or run your own from battery?
I see another pic from you under the center console but I don't recognize what go under there?
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Old Mar 29, 2019 | 11:35 PM
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I definitely would like to do this. Is there a write up on the connections? How is the sound? Any drawbacks?
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Old Nov 19, 2020 | 12:19 AM
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Noise cancellation subwoofer/rear speaker not OEM

Originally Posted by Carazy
Noise Cancel signal is fed to the Sub-Woofer circuit and not the rear door speaker. Tap the rear door speaker like I did.

Hi, if I just change the subwoofer with a better one (no amp, nothing.. ) the noise cancellation will still work? or only work with OEM subwoofer?
and 2, I will change my 4 speakers with infinity one. If I tap the rear speaker with the signal like you did, it will work (no amp) ? or only work with OEM speaker?

Thanks
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Old Nov 20, 2020 | 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Carazy
Noise Cancel signal is fed to the Sub-Woofer circuit and not the rear door speaker. Tap the rear door speaker like I did.
From where you taped to rear speaker? The easiest way?
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