pdpgps

Wow! That sucks. Btw, I was quoted $36,400 AWD out the door with no tech. Some bargaining tactics I use:

1) Price comparison with other dealerships
2) Time the best time to buy (end of the month, end of the year when dealerships have to meet their sales quotas as a whole, not per salesperson)
3) Holiday promotions
4) Go off internet sales price and drive to a lower amount (try to figure out how far their bottom line is)
5) Don't be in love with the car there. Compare other vehicles you are looking for and present offers other dealerships are offering
6) Let them know you have options
7) Hold your ground. They want your money. They need your money. Otherwise they're just sitting on tons of inventory that starts to depreciate as soon as it hits the lot (clock starts ticking before new models roll through)

pdpgps

Let me answer your questions

1) I def want a 2013. I think the V6 engine is nicer and I'm sure quicker and I don't want to go used. Plus the new 2013 lets you use regular gas right? and has better mpg? This will mainly be my wife's car so the firmer suspension was more for me, but I think she herself prefers softer.
Yes, the 2013 uses regular gas and uses non-synthetic oil versus the first gen which needed synthetic and premium due to the turbo. The first gen RDX gave me 17 city 22 highway. We're up to 22 city and 27 highway on the 2nd gens.

2) regarding the "$4-6k more than the RDX AWD w/tech, and with no options. Fully built out the RX would have been at least $50k" comment, I have to get a clearer picture on that. Let me elaborate in point #3...
The base price on the RX was already $4-6k higher than the RDX and with no options! This was a huge issue for me. RDX has 4 trims only. AWD or FWD. Tech and No Tech. So simple. And I got everything I wanted for much less than the RX base with no options.

Ah I didn't know there was also a $3k trade-in in the mix. I think if you pull that out, dcpc08161992 is doing the best w/ his 2013 RDX AWD w/ Tech from Pohanka for $38999.00 OTD. I really need to see his break-down. Maybe I'll DM him to check out this thread and chime in.
Correct. Without my trade in I would be looking at $39,400 OTD. Keep in mind it'll be a few hundred cheaper if you transfer tags and not get new ones like I did.

With his post, I can figure out what the best case scenario is with the RDX and then compare to the best case scenarios w/ the RX. Looking in Edmunds' RX 350 Prices Paid thread, a magic number being thrown around is 11% off MSRP. The RX I'm looking at is at $49,500k so let's say that 11% works out, that's pretty much $5k off taking the price down to $44,500 for the car I want (before fees). Also not considering the $1k I should be getting for the Lexus Loyalty and also if I get into the "december to remember," any additional discounts.

Anyways, considering the RX makes everything more complicated so I'm hesitant to go down that route.
Ask yourself, for another $6-8k difference, what are you getting in the RX that you aren't in the RDX? Better gas? More tech? Is that worth the cost diff?


What I know is this:


Right so here is my plan: I'm going to go to Acura Dealer on Tuesday and say "if you give me $20k for my trade-in, and let me buy this car for $_____ and $____ OTD, I'll buy now. The fill in the blank numbers are what I'm trying to figure out - what's the reach price I should be going for w/ the car purchase which is high enough so I don't lose credibility but low enough that they can't do it, but I'm in the game and can leave with a real clear view of the ceiling they'll give me for my trade-in and the floor price for the new RDX.

Then I have Wednesday and Thursday to:

a) Talk to Lexus one last time and see what's the closest they can get to my current RDX price w/ their fully loaded RX
b) Talk to some other local acura dealers by phone and say this is where I'm at, can this be beat?
c) get some aftermarket stuff out of my IS that I can resell on ebay. No point losing them for no reason in a trade-in

Will keep you guys updated
I waited till the last minute before letting them know I had a trade-in. That gave me more leverage to work off their offer and then subtract the value of the trade-in. Btw, Carmax gives the highest offers for trade-ins. I worked with my sales guy to get an offer, really drive that to a lower amount by telling them a range I was looking at and that I was willing to find a number we'd both agree to. Once I had that number I presented the trade-in and negotiated the fees to a solid # out the door. Don't go over phone, they won't take you seriously unless you show in person. Plus it shows good faith in you the buyer and they the seller. Let them know you have other dealerships you are working with as well.

riddler6.7

My purchase ended up like this (AWD W/Tech Package)...

$38,200 including splash guards and wheel locks
+800 for gap insurance
=$39,000 OTD but i will pay sales tax

Shahryar

So a few things since my last post a couple hours ago.

1) I think the best price actually is kfar09's:

2) CoachRick, good advice in your post above. I just wanted to reply to this part:

The things I want to pull out are my F-Sport sway bars and putting the OEM ones back in. They shouldn't notice/care for that. And the other item is the "Hidden behind the Navi unit" ipod adapter which lets me listen to things off the ipod and watch videos off the navi screen. It's aftermarket so that shouldn't matter either.

And 3)....

Here's dcpc's breakdown:
Just DM-ed kfar09 to get his/her's.

Definitely will do.

tlrulz

Hi Folks,
Previous TL owner. Looking to buy the RDX FWD base now. Any thoughts on what price I should be aiming at? I don't have a trade-in. BTW, please share any good experiences with dealers in North Carolina/RTP area. Dont mind driving out to Greensboro/Winston Salem too.
Thanks!

Shahryar

Ok, I'm back from the Acura Dealer in the DC Metro area.

So first the good news. They're willing to give me $19,500 for my 2008 IS 350. As I mentioned earlier, Carmax had offered me $17k when I went there last month. Then when I went to the Lexus Dealer (because the other car I'm considering is the RX 350), they initially offered me $16,500 and after some back and forth, said they'd probably be able to get to $18k max.. and even that was shaky.

Here they initially gave me $19k, and when I tried to push for more (even though I was ecstatic at this price), they agreed and said $19,500 but that's the highest.

I took my winnings there. Now in regards to the price of the car...

I took a printout of this thread with me to the Acura dealer today and showed the salesman this post from pdpgps. Before today, as I mentioned before, the salesman had been willing to do $37,615 + $895 (Freight) = $38,510. I told him that I was happy with the trade-in value being offered on my Lexus IS, and if he could match the price pdpgps had gotten quoted from Rosenthal Acura in Rockville, I would buy now. He said that Rosenthal's price couldn't be that low UNLESS it didn't include Destination. He went and talked to his manager and said that he could make it so that the $37,615 + $895 price would be simply just be $37,615.

I told him that I needed to go talk to my wife because we are $1k apart from each other. But in reality, the main reason I needed to get out of there is because I need Tuesday evening/Wednesday morning to take out the things from my IS before I part with it (Sway Bars, SL2Vi iPod connector, Blitz Air and Cabin Air Filters)

So, pdpgps, the question I have for you is 1) Did this price you were quoted include Destination @ $895 or was the final price before Tax, Tags, and Dealer Processing fee? Because if that price is true, I need to talk to Rosenthal or push this dealer for another $1 grand off.

Otherwise, right now, here's what I'm at:

2013 Acura RDX AWD Tech Package = $37,615
Trade in for my 2008 IS 350 = (-$19,500)
Payoff remaining on my IS 350 = +$8056
+ Tags/License Plates = +$180
+ Taxes at 6% of ($37,615 minus $19,500 = $18,115) = +$1087
+ Processing ($200)
= my OTD price

I got approval for 1.9% APR financing from my work credit union at the department of labor. However, the salesman said he may be able to get me the .09% APR they have for the TL and MDX also on the RDX. If so, that's half the interest so that'd be better.

They took a copy of my credit card so I could hold the car til Wednesday.

Any thoughts?

riddler6.7

Honestly that sounds like a pretty dang good price. I believe invoice is around ~$36,900 + destination charge, so you are right around invoice if you look at it that way. Most dealers wont usually get below invoice without extra incentives or being the last day of the month and needing another sale.

These things are very hard to come by around here. It took them 3 days of negotiating with other dealers to get our car, they told me it was the only praphite luster/ebony AWD w/tech package within the 5 states worth of dealers that they deal with.

Honestly, I would be pretty happy with the deal you are getting, especially if they get you to 0.9%

Shahryar

Thanks Riddler. Would you mind breaking down the price you paid around how I broke mine down?

(like: 2013 Acura RDX AWD Tech Package = $37,615
Trade in for my 2008 IS 350 = (-$19,500)
Payoff remaining on my IS 350 = +$8056
+ Tags/License Plates = +$180
+ Taxes at 6% of ($37,615 minus $19,500 = $18,115) = +$1087
+ Processing ($200)
= my OTD price )

CoachRick

I also think the numbers you have are darned good. Lots of places will go $500 more than CarMax; but $2500 is pretty slick(since they aren't hiding it in the selling price of the new vehicle). CarMax uses the nationwide auction numbers, so they're pretty sound unless you have some regional 'issues'.

I'd give the dealer the finance business, even if they only match the rate. You could show them the Pen Fed rate of 1.49% available to anybody with good credit...even if they 'only' hit that number, you're still good to go.
https://www.penfed.org/Auto-Loans-Ov...icker-10312012

You never know...there might be some 'incentive' down the road for Acura/Honda finance folks.

If the model they're holding for you is just what you wanted, we want pics by the end of the week! Go yank those aftermarket goodies out and don't forget the one CD in the player.

Heck, if you still feel the need to beat them up some more, ask the sales guy for all-weather mats or a cargo cover and then buy him lunch!

riddler6.7

I did not have a trade in (sorento got totalled a few weeks ago), so its pretty much just like i stated above...

$38,200 for the vehicle
+ $800 for gap insurance
=$39,000

Put $3k down payment and financed $36k at 2.24% for 72.

Tax @ 6% should be around $2,292 since here i will only pay tax on the actual vehicle amount and not the gap insurance, and also will have to pay full sales tax since there was no trade in.

If i would have bought the one they had on their lot, i think i could have got them down a couple hundred more $$$, but the wife wouldnt go for black since we live down a dirt road.

We never discussed the destination charges or anything like that, i just told them where i wanted to be at. I called around to a few of the other dealers and got quotes from them and told my local dealer where they needed to be to earn my business. I feel really good about it considering it probably cost them about $200-$300 in fuel to go pick it up and trailer it down here. They only had one awd w/tech package left on their lot, they sale quickly here.

Then add in the fact that i got the splash guards and wheel locks for free. (didnt even know it had the wheel locks and splash guards until I saw it after they picked it up from the other dealer, not even sure they knew it had them as it was never discussed or mentioned)

pdpgps

Shahryar-

Give me some time to find my paper work and I'll break down the #s line by line for you. FYI the dealership admitted they were selling the vehicle at a loss and below invoice.

CoachRick

riddler...absolutely none of my business; but a couple of questions, if you don't mind.

A) Did you get burned on the payout on the Sorento, hence the 'gap insurance'? You could have another 'gap' if something happens since you essentially financed the total 'worth' of your new vehicle, so I reckon I understand the desire for complete coverage. Just don't know what other benefit it could offer. I've only had 'gap' on leases, since there can be significant exposure in a lease.

2) Fairly cool that they 'found' a vehicle for you and had it delivered. I was actually the driver for a vehicle swap MANY years ago. Drove one new vehicle a couple hundred miles to swap for my new ride at a dealer in another state. Times were simpler then . Was there a chance you would have worked your deal at the store that had your desired unit?

C) Hope everyone involved in the Sorento demise is OK.

pdpgps

OK here is the breakdown of my purchase. On one of my earlier posts I had quoted AWD with no tech. Family made a decision at the last minute to get the tech hence the different #s.

2013 RDX AWD with Tech
Base (with tech): $36,615 (original quote)
Trade in: -$3,000
Sub Total: $33,615

Taxes 6% (MD State) $36,615 x 0.06 = $2,196.90
Transfer Tags: $180 (this amount ended up increasing as I got new tags)
Processing Fee: $195
Destination: $895
Total Fees $3,466

Net Total (with tech): $37,071
Negotiated Total (with all-season mats): $36,400

Shahryar

Ok so you were at $36,615 + Destination, Tax, Tags, and Dealer processing. So my salesman was right in that the $36,615 couldn't have the destination as already part of it. Specifically, my salesman had said, "don't look at this number, it's an illusion my friend" lol.

But what's nice is the all season mats you got. I don't reallly care for those too much but the accessory I want to push for is the extra keyfob. They only give you one. I don't think I could get something like the Remote start in there because that's $760.

There are a couple of things bugging me on yours though:

Shouldn't the taxes be on the sale price minus the trade in?

The trade in impacting the sales price is a nice help. If I had sold the car used instead on my own, would I partial refund on the sales tax I paid to the state originally or no? Because I had considerd trying to do a private sale, but that extra grand I'm saving on new sales tax means that I would have to have sold for over $20,500 for it to have been equal to what I got for my trade-in.

- I can't transfer tags either because I'm trading in my car and getting an SUV and SUV has diff tags. But the cost is still supposed to be $180....
I actually wouldn't want to transfer tags anyways. There are a couple DC automated enforcement tickets I got which were unfair and they didn't give me a trial so i refuse to pay them. So I don't want a boot or anything on my car.

With tags I wonder too what happens if you return tags after you've just renewed them. Luckily for me my tags are due to be renewed in January 2013 so I'll be skipping that.

I thought destination was supposed to get taxed too?

I was going to ask you for your purchase order w/ the sensitive info blurred out of course, but I don't think I need it because your deal is pretty close to mine.

FYI - after my purchase, I'm willing to share my purchase order w/ anyone who needs it.

Was the financing through Acura Financial (Honda Motors)? I'm only financing through them if they give me 0.9% APR otherwise I'm sticking w/ my Department of Labor credit union at 1.99%

I brought up the sales tax issue w/ trade-in earlier.

Yeah, I myself wanted the ebony interior for sure and my options were white, silver, and dark gray. Silver's the best color if you're not going to be on top of keeping the car clean imo.

Splash guards and wheel locks were never brought up with my car. I will email them and ask if the one I'm looking to get has them included. I mentioned earlier on the one key fob and remote start.

[quote=CoachRick;14181646][quote=riddler6.7;14181420]I did not have a trade in (sorento got totalled a few weeks ago), so its pretty much just like i stated above...

$38,200 for the vehicle
+ $800 for gap insurance
=$39,000

Put $3k down payment and financed $36k at 2.24% for 72.

Tax @ 6% should be around $2,292 since here i will only pay tax on the actual vehicle amount and not the gap insurance, and also will have to pay full sales tax since there was no trade in....Would anyone mind sharing a GAP Insurance 101 with me? I've been buying new cars since 2004 and I'm not familiar with it. Is it something I should be considering?

CoachRick

Basically GAP insurance is free money to the person selling it. Back in the 90s, Ford included it as an incentive with their Red Carpet Lease...so, theoretically, no direct cost to the consumer. The "Gap" becomes a problem when a vehicle is totaled or otherwise 'closed out' before the terms of the lease are met. The insurance company may say the vehicle is worth X, but you're on the hook for the remainder/buyout of the lease which could be thousands more.

It's not absolutely beneficial in a purchase scenario, unless the value financed is near the actual value of the vehicle. Say you purchase the vehicle and finance 100% of the selling price. Three months later when the vehicle is totaled, the insurance folks aren't going to offer 95% as a buyout(or more to cover the note). The "GAP" insurance theoretically covers the difference. Unless I'm mistaken, money paid up front for GAP insurance is pure profit if the contract simply runs its natural course...no actual benefit to the consumer other than 'peace of mind'. I reckon lenders would love to 'sell' this insurance whenever possible.

riddler6.7

1) I came out OK on the sorento total. Er... the amount they paid for the actual value of the vehicle was shy of what i owed by about $1,000, then they add in sales tax and other misc fees... after all said and done, i will end up with about $1,100 leftover after paying off the vehicle. Also take into account that i did not finance in sales tax or anything. I only financed the purchase price of the vehicle. Had i financed in sales tax, the outcome would have been worse and i would have needed the Gap insurance... but vice versa, had i not purchased gap insurance, that would have been $800 less that i owed....

The good thing about gap insurance is you can cancel it at anytime and get reimbursed for the gap insurance purchase amount, it is pro-rated obviously, but i will be getting about 83% of the gap insurance price back since i did not have to use it this time.

I would rather have it and not need it, then need it and not have it. If some idiot pulled out in front of me the day we drove home the RDX and it got totalled, i would be in deep crap. Plus my wife is no where near a good driver lol. I will probably cancel the Gap insurance on it after about a year and get reimbursed the difference.

2) The dealer they got it from was over a 4 hour drive for me, it is worth it to me, to pay a couple hundred more to deal with the local dealership and let them trailer it here. Plus it really helps with getting service if required, when buying from the local dealer. Plus it would have cost me gas money to go get it.

pdpgps

A couple of things.

1) car comes with two key fobs
2) all season mats are a $151 value
3) sales tax is calculated on the base price not after trade in
4) returning tags recently registered will allow you to get a prorated amount back from the state for the time you actually used it. The rest will be returned.
5) no remote start option via Acura as far as I know
6) it could be the way I negotiated, but sales tax is typically applied to the base price before fees. Just like airline tickets the change fees are a flat rate assessed after your ticket is taxed you don't pay tax on change fees.

riddler6.7

3) sales tax here is calculated after trade in. (varies by state)

5) acura does offer remote start for the RDX, its pretty pricey and not many ppl have liked it after the install.

riddler6.7

No, the dealership said the best acura would do on the RDX was like 4.9% or something like that.

THe 2.24% was offered by a local credit union so i told the dealership that i was going to finance through the credit union unless they could match it. They got one of their financing places to match it.

2.24% was the best rate i found in this area while shopping.

Shahryar

Can anyone confirm the two key fobs?

riddler6.7

Definitely comes with two fobs... The remote start only comes with one though...

dcpc08161992

***
I got two Smart Key FOB. After market remote start systems come with two FOB as well.

Shahryar

Yes that's what the confusion was over. If I wanted the remote start it only came with one key. But that was $760. That's the accessory that caught my eye along with the 10 spoke rims which were $2k+ and the running boards which were $800-something.

But I didn't get any of them, just the car. Happy to join the Acura world. It apparently includes the next oil change free which is nice. Don't know when that is.

Will post deal details later

tlrulz

Second try. Havent decided whether or not to go with the Tech PKG? What is a good price on a Base FWD non-tech? Since it is the end of the month, I'm hoping to make an offer tomorrow. FWD tech pkg price is also welcome.

Shahryar

Here are my final numbers for my 2013 Acura RDX AWD w/ Tech.

Selling Price: $37,615
Dealer Processing Charge (Not required by law): $200
Electronic Title and Registration: $20
Total Purchase Price: $37,835
Tire Recycling Fee:$4.00
Title Tax: $1098.90
Title Fees: $100
Lien Filing Fees: $20
Registration Fees $195
Total Cash Delivered Price $39,252.90

For my 2008 Lexus IS 350 which was just shy of 65k miles I got $19,600 for it (the highest - by far - over two Lexus Dealers and Carmax) from the Acura dealership I went to. There was $8058.42 due on it. That gave me Trade-in Equity of $11,441.58

$39,252.90
- $11,441.58
= $27,811.32 = final amount I am responsible for.

I was approved for 1.9% APR financing from Acura Financial (Honda financial) for 60 months from them but chose instead to go with my work's Credit union (I work for Fed govt) for 1.99% APR. On a 60 month loan it's $1ish more each payment at $487.38. Not sure how much it would change if I decided to do 4 year payments instead of 5 years.

I don't know if I have the best price in here or not. But if anyone wants to see my purchase order, I am willing to blur out my sensitive info and share it. If you're in the DC area and can do Laurel's Tischer Acura dealership, please pass my name along as the referral because maybe I can get some credits or reward points for the referral.

Email me (my email is my username here @ gmail ) and I'll give you the salesperson's name. Today's the 29th and tomorrow's the 30th, I don't know if the end of the month thing is real or not, but if it is, it's a good time to make your move.

Two Final notes:

1) Above I've put in italics the fees I wasn't expecting or expecting to be different. I don't really know at this point if I can bring up anything but these weren't disclosed to me. But then again, I didn't pressure hard for a full breakdown of all fees to expect. I'd strongly suggest making all dealers you're considering do that. Really spell out what the fees should be. I thought it was simply going to be Tax, Tags ($180), and Dealer processing ($200).

2) For anyone sharing prices, please consider doing a breakdown like mine. I think it really gives a more helpful picture. Especially when it comes to these purchases which are so large in nature, I think it's a big help to have the full picture and not some info. I think the "OTD" prices don't really help without a full picture because there are so many factors w/ each individual purchase (trade-in, accessories, etc) to consider. Just my thoughts.

Shahryar

This is a good thread to read to help you make your decision. I would totally have skipped the Tech package if there were any good alternative solutions out there but there really aren't. You can use a tom tom or your phone for navi but then you have wires running everywhere and I already have a radar detector. I hope in the future we move away from fixed, permanent navigation units into portable, upgradeable, tablet based systems. That'll be the day I stop going with the Tech Package/Navigation options in my new cars

Al Bundy

I also came from a Lexus IS350 to the RDX just last week. It's a pretty drastic change if you ask me, but I really like the Acura. Congrats!

Shahryar

Hey actually the RDX my wife will mainly be driving and I'll be taking over her Accord. I traded in my IS because I kept getting bent rims, had gotten hankook tires that had a pull, and a few other issues that were giving me a hard time. I just felt that I wasn't enjoying it for what I was still paying on it and parted with it.

In a couple of years I'll be looking forward to my next fun car. And from here on out I plan to lease them so when they start becoming a headache at least they'll be due back shortly after.

josh4mc

Hey guys. Just bought an AWD w/Tech RDX and wanted to share our pricing for others to compare.

Selling Price: $38,000
Doc Fee: $80
Electronic Filing Fee: $20
TTL: Can't remember exact amount but there were no BS fees there and our tax is currently 8.25%

They also threw in the All-Season Protection Package 2 which includes the cargo tray, all-season floor mats and wheel locks. Retail $350.

Our process was to use truecar.com to get a few quotes in the area. Got one of the dealers down to $38,188 and then called our preferred dealer. Asked them to beat the price and include the accessories. They came back at $38,000 so we drove there and signed the paperwork. Fairly stress free and happy with our deal.

docboy

Thanks for sharing. Which city and state are you located in?

josh4mc

We are in Moraga, CA. Plenty of dealers in the Bay Area.

Al Bundy

Yeah man, I feel you. Although I didn't have the issues you had, I had other ones that were very disconcerting. My IS350 had the notorious "start-up grind" noise multiple times and if my car had not been under warranty, it would have cost several grand to fix each time. That and other pretty serious issues I was having is what ultimately convinced me to get rid of the car.

And also, I really didn't like how weak the paint was on my Lexus. It chips way too easily. It's something I notice with Lexus and Toyota cars. Every time I see one up close, the front ends & hoods seem to be chipped to hell due to soft paint.

I agree with what you're saying though for the future. I like my RDX, but I really miss having a performance-type sedan/car. I'll just have to see what the new G37 or even maybe the new IS350 looks like, although I have bad taste in my mouth from my previous experience with the Lexus brand...

pdpgps

^In regards to the paint quality I actually think Toyota/Lexus have much better paint quality than Honda/Acura. I agree, Toyota paint is softer but its a lot easier to maintain and I feel is more durable than Honda.

I got clearbra on my IS250 and its great. I'll probably throw it on my RDX too.

Al Bundy

Sorry, I've gotta disagree with you wholeheartedly. Lexus paint may be subjectively better in quality as in luster and color, but when you say it is more durable it is definitely not. Definitely LESS durable as it pertains to susceptibility to chips/nicks due to air and road debris.

It's a very common theme in the Clublexus forums for all the Lexus models. LS, ES, IS, GS, RX, etc.. People who've owned their cars for just a year have noticed deep paint chips. You can do a Google search for "Lexus paint chips" and see what I am talking about. The same search with "Acura" yields different/less results.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Lexus+paint+chips

It's definitely not the same for an identical search instead with Acura:
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=acura+paint+chips

In any event, A 3M Clearbra is the only solution. A quality installer/workmanship is very important though. I've had a one on a previous car of mine and it was pretty good, but it was still prone to peeling (and turned slightly yellowish on a white car) in the 106 degree summers we have out here.

dc5k20z1

I wonder if Acura will offer any incentives the end of this month or January/ February for the 2013 RDX?

I test drove a 2012 AWD with tech the other day and actually like it so I can just imagine how the the 2013 would feel. Should have my car paid off by then as a collateral down payment

beach109

I would not expect this anytime soon, simply because the way the RDX is already priced and how demand is outstripping supply for the most part each month, and there really is no need for a subvented special rate either. Compare dollar for dollar with what you get vs. other competitors, and it makes sense.

Also given the aggressive rates you can get through different banks right now, and dealer pricing, it's an easy choice.

You never know, but with sales vs. supply, don't expect anything anytime soon.

dc5k20z1

im doing some online shopping within the dc metro area to save myself some time when I go to the dealer. A couple have quoted me 38,500 out the door for an AWD with tech... I initially was just curious to see what kind of price I could get but that price is pretty good and may even purchase soon.

Shahryar

That sounds like a great price but please share the price breakdown because OTD prices could differ greatly depending on trade-ins, etc

GarrettinSF

Greetings all! I'm happy to say that after 3+ months of considering buying a 2013 RDX, I finally got a deal I was happy with! It took me a while to decide that I was ready to move on from my trusty and cost effective Prius, but in the end, it was time. I also bounced back and forth to the X3 28i (too much money for better steering).

In the end, I bought a Amber Brownstone AWD with Tech that had been sitting on the dealer lot for a few months.

Vehicle Price: $37,891
Doc Fees: $80.00
Tax: $3436.64
License/Reg/Tire Fees/: $400
Options: Running boards, body moldings, all season mats, trailer hitch: $2,061.

I know I could have gotten some of the options cheaper -- but they were all options I wanted and they were already on the car. Saved me the headache of finding someone to install.

aks1972

That is probably the best color out there. I myself went with Forged Silver!

Enjoy the ride. I could not convince myself to go with X3 or Q5. RDX is too well packaged.