I had the same problems, but would get code p0740. To get it work you need to swap the entire oil filter cooler assembly( on mine it had two different size lines on the 07 av6 tranny try we're the same), 3rd and 4th gear pressure switch harness, range selector (on my tl it has 2 connectors on the accord it only has 1). Now since you have a cl p there is a speed sensor for the power steering on the original tranny. You pull the lines off at the rack, then grab a rubber hose and loop it at the rack and use some tight clamps so it doesn't leak. In the cl/ tl p the steering will be a little tighter but I like it. If you do all that you will have no cel's I just did my swap with the help of a friend last Friday and it's running great about 350 miles so far.

 

OK, update on the P1760. I've been watching the green "key" light on the dash after I shut the car off, hoping that I would catch the light continuing to blink. That has not happened. I found two different times today that I shut the car off and the light did not blink at all. The first time it happened, the code appeared and even though I reset it, the yellow exclamation point stayed lit. After that the car sat for about three hours, after which it started and ran normally until I got home. At that point the light did not blink either. I plugged in the code reader and tried to read the code with the key off. The code reader accessed the car's computer and read the code, just like the key was on, even though the key was off. I then got out the voltmeter and found that the yel/blk (output) wire coming out of the master relay still had voltage, even though it was supposed to be off. So I changed the master relay, and now the key light blinks after I shut the car off.

 

Do the driverside axle need to b changed if so to what cuz my cl axle is too long causing it to bind up

 

Hmm good question. Since no one has said anything about it before, I'm guessing you can use your old axles.

 

I used my old axles when I did the swap.

 

I'm using a 05 oddy tranny n for some reason my stock axle on the driverside is too long I need a shorter axle can ne1 share some light I would like my car back already

 

I haven't seen that problem yet. Contact nva-av6 and he should be able to help you figure out the situation.

 

I'm still stuck with my axle dilema ughhh I guess my car doesn't want to b revived

 

I have done 20+ of these swaps in TLs and CLs without any axel issues.........

 

Maybe try to take some pictures so we can help.

 

Sure the axle is going in all the way? or maybe you have the sides swapped.

 

I used an 05' Oddy on my swap and the axles were fine. The only thing that I had to use that was different was that I had to use the Oddy shift cable cover.

On another note, the master relay appears to have fixed the P1768 issue. Still keeping my eye on it though.

 

Problem solved my car has been involved in an accident before such is causing my issue so I have to go to a frame shop n ill b good money did a lil pulling so I can temp drive it till it gets the frame done n so far she's shifting beautifully thanks a bunch nva-av6 n ne newbies reading this thread swap works perfect in car as long as u follow Wats posted

 

^ Just get a new front subframe and thoughly inspect control arms and knuckles.....

 

been busy i see.

 

I was recently driving after the swap n I noticed that the car started that lil jerk motion it was doing wen I had my original tranny Watcould be my issue? I'm thinking that since the shifter isn't 100% matching it was stuck between shift modes d5 and d4 or could it b my tranny ecu is mess???ed up

 

Sounds more like eaither a ground or shift solinoid or motor mount.

 

Had to give this thread its props , along with NVA-AV6 (answering my questions with no problem). Ody Swap done and car feels good. If you are on the fence just go ahead and jump in, its not that hard at all. Well worth it. I'll take the OP original quote and say "if someone says it can't be done, do not let them touch your car ever". someone told me the same, can't wait to see them. lol

 

 

its very possible it may be a torque converter judder! it happens at cruising spend around like 45mph some cars! have some hook your car up to a modis and look at your trans info

 

Anyone in Southern California that has done tranny swaps? If so, I need to take my CL-S for a swap and the tranny shops won't do it since they make all their money on rebuild so I need a mechanic who has experience with CL-S to Ody tranny swap.

Thanks in advance.

 

Have you posted your request in the so cal regional thread?

 

05 Oddy tranny swap is under way on my 01 CL-S. a big thanks to jhornbr225 for all the advice and that excel doc. Took it to my mechanic on a thumb drive and had him look over the steps and he said it won't be a problem to get it swapped out. Ill keep you all posted on how it turns out.

 

You're welcome. Over 11,000 miles on my swap, running great. Replacing the master relay fixed the tranny code I was getting. Now I just need to fix the vacuum leak...

 

yeah - im really thankful for this thread and for the people who answers our inquiries about the swap. It save me literally thousands -- and yeah - i did all by myself So far so good for me - I already put 18K on my 06' Odyssey swapped transmission .

 

Update: Got my baby back from the shop yesterday. Trans range switch was the same part number so it was not changed. My oil jet kit, trans filter housing, and dipstick were swapped over. There was NOTHING that had to be tapped and drilled. It is an absolute must to get the shift cable cover for the Oddy. Currently I am using the cover off the CL but it does not fit well at all. Should have my new cover next week and I can jack the passenger side of my car up and change that out myself. It's just a few bolts. I am also going to have to adjust my shifter cable because as of now my shifter is slightly off and will not allow me to switch to SS mode. I've been reading through the forums on how to do this and it does not seem too involved so I should be ok. if not, its back to the shop to have them do it. The only other issue I had was my check engine light was on. Again, I read through different threads and found how to reset the light. All you have to do is access the fuse box on the passenger side and take out the #13 15 amp clock fuse. I literally had it out for ten seconds and then pushed it back in. Started my car up and CEL was off. No warning lights whatsoever are on! Transmission shifts OK for now but I'll update again after the new shifter cable cover arrives from Cali and I adjust the cable. I'll also keep an eye on my fluid level and make sure it stays above the top dot. Now let's talk numbers: 05 Oddy EX tranny from a salvage yard with 51,000 miles $ 950. Transaxle seals replaced at the dealership $ 50(Dang labor rates are $100/Hr!!) plus parts $23 and change. Let's just call it $75 and $550 for putting in the new tranny. Grand total $1575. That beats the quotes of $4500 for a new (remanufactured by Honda) tranny with a 3 yr/36000 mi warranty or $3500 for a 1 yr warranty or the final "deal" of $2300 for the same Acura tranny with 71000 miles and a 6 month warranty. HA! Like someone said on here "If they tell you that you can't put the Oddy tranny in an Acura then that's not the shop for you." My advice is be patient and look for a mechanic that will listen to you and give them as much info as possible. Let them know what needs to be switched over and that you understand that the gear ratio is different but that wont matter and yes, the ECU will work with the Oddy tranny. I am fairly handy and wish I had the time and a heated garage to do this but the next best thing was taking it to a shop and I'm glad I did. For me, this was about a 3 week ordeal from break down to pick up. about a week of that was my car sitting at the original transmission repair shop that was closed for new years for three days. the rest was searching for a transmission and a mechanic to do the job. Once I found the mechanic it took him 3 days to get it back to me. I know NVA-AV6 gets it done in 1.5 days but he's done dozens! I hope this helps the next person unfortunate enough to join the club.
P.S. car-part.com is the way to go for your transmission search.

 

Congrats on the swap 6klub! Here's to many more trouble free miles. I'm a little curious about the CEL, it would have been nice to get the code, and see what the problem was. If it comes back, definitely have the code read before you reset it.

I'm not sure you needed to keep the jet kit, as from what I know the later tranny's had the core problem fixed, so they did not need the "band-aid" of the jet kit. Maybe someone with more experience can comment.

 

I'm now on my second swap using the 06 Odyssey transmission. Both times I've been lucky to get a reman with all the blue paint on the bolts. So far so good. I'm about done with the swap on an 02 TL-S. The previous one was on a 2003 CL-S. Thanks for all the good info.

 

2nd Update: jhornbr225, the CEL came back on a few days later and I just left Autozone getting it read. Came up with code P1457. Possible problems are as follows: Loose Fuel cap (Which I've checked and filled up twice now and made sure I tightened the cap 3 clicks), Vapor canister saturated, failed vent solenoid, or failed purge solenoid. Guess ill start with the cheapest fixes first and see which one fixes it. None of these sound too major so I'm not too worried. OK, so the shifter cable cover(Holder)(part #24901 arrived yesterday and I replaced it that afternoon. Took me all of 20 minutes and most of that was jacking the car up, positioning the jack stand and looking for the right size sockets. I did this at home with a 1.5 ton jack and one stand. If any of you have to do this after the fact no worries it's super easy. There's only 3 bolts the hold the cover on and 2 smaller bolts that anchor part of the shifter cable to the cover. Tip: undo the 2 smaller bolts first then 3 cover bolts. When putting the new cover on tighten the cover bolts first then the smaller cable bolts. I can not stress how important the new cover was to me. Having one that fit properly solved my shifter being off issue and I was able to use SS mode with no issues. As far as how the car shifts it feels like it has smoothed out. It's by no means flawless but it is smooth and feels the same every time. It's not a hard jerking shift, you just feel it that's all. Once I get this CEL issue resolved I will be good to go. I hope my experience and limited input will be helpful to the next person. This is a great forum and an awesome thread. Thanks to all who provided input directly or indirectly.

 

We have a 2003 CL P and it has about 65k on it. The tranny is getting serviced next month. I am a little concerned with delayed shifting into reverse and drive.This has been a great thread and I am following it closely. My wife loves the car and refuses to sell it. Now I am preparing for the worst.

If the tranny fails, I am looking at swapping over to an oddy 3.5l motor and transmission. I might as well do it at the same time and make more power. Thanks to all that have given input, I am pretty handy at turning wrenches. Of course the isn't happy with spending the money.

 

6klub: That's the same code I'm getting. I have not looked at it for a while though. From the online reading I've done, it seems easier to drop the canister assembly out of the car completely to work on it. It's on the driver's side, in the rear axle area. I used 12VDC and some jumpers to test the solenoid that faces the driver's side (not sure of the name). Some people found that putting 12VDC on it made no noise, and found that it was plugged. Mine clunks solidly with the application of 12VDC, so that's not it. It's a little cold these days so i'm not sure when I'll be working on it again. Although it's supposed to be a little warmer this week.

The old house had a 24'x30' heated garage (natural gas - Reznor type heater). The new house we moved into last summer has a 32'x64' boy garage (detached). The two+ stall attached to the house is girl garage. The boy garage has a large radiant heater, but it runs on propane and the tank is empty. I had not planned on filling it. Future plans include perhaps walling off the back half the boy garage as a work bay, super-insulating it, and using some other form of heat (wood?). But until that's done, I freeze.

 

New update: Still have not replaced the solenoids. Was gonna head to the Honda dealership tomorrow morning and pony up the 150 for the 2 solenoids and the canister and be done with it. However, this morning on the way to work after driving about 5-10 min the VSA and ! light came on. I could not stop otherwise risk being late for work so I slowed to about 50 figuring it had to do with minus 5 degree windchill factor this morning. I thought to myself "There's no way my transmission I got put in 2 weeks ago to the day is messed up?" As I continue to drive and get on an onramp to another highway the car does a little jerk and continues to go through the gears. Now the D5 light is flashing, but the car is still riding along and progressing through the gears like all is well. So no I'm shook but Im too far away from home to stop. Just for the heck of it I slap the gear shifter to manual mode and let off the gas....nothing. No number on the dash showing which gear i'm in so now I'm really worried. I finally make it to work and just for the heck of it I shut the car off and start it back up. Not the VSA and ! light is off. Does anyone have any clue as to what could be going on? Is my Odysee tranny going already or is it another solonid or something?

 

6klub: Get that code read while you have the lights on. Like I've said, after I changed my tranny, the Master Relay was acting up. But that fault always showed up right away after starting the car, not 10-15 minutes later. Once the code is read, the troubleshooting can begin!

 

OK, got the new codes read. It's P0740 and P1753. Dopes that always mean it's all bad or will replacing the TCC Solenoid (Lock control) take care of it? Should I pay 260 for the part or just cut my losses and trade my baby in?? I really need the forums input on this. I've had a transmission drain and fill and added extra fluid to account for the old dipstick. I don't think its a poor electrical connection but have not taken it to get tested. It was fine the first 2.5 weeks after the swap so I would guess I would have had something go wrong electrically before that right?

 

P1753 Looks like an electrical problem. P0740 could be caused by the lack of operation of the Torque Converter clutch solenoid or the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid Valve C. P0740 points to a hydraulic problem that could be caused by an electrical problem.

 

Hey Guys, I will be doing the swap next week with an 06 honda oddy tranny . I have been trying to find the shift cable cover for the oddy online with no luck. can anyone steer me in the right direction? thanks

 

One site is:

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...artsSearch.jsp

You can search by the year and make of your tranny. I used my local Honda Dealer, as I have a pretty good relationship with them, and with the discount they give me, the price was close and shipping was covered.

I'm thinking the parts is under:

System Name\Component : AT OIL LEVEL GAUGE - ATF PIPE (- 06)

and the part number looks like it might be 24901-RGL-000, HOLDER, CONTROL WIRE.

I'm going to be the first to say that I'm not 100% positive about that. That's another plus about going to the dealer, if the part is not right, in most cases if you don't open it, they will take it back. Obviously not special order electrical parts, which this is not. The guy at my Honda Dealer even told me that if I open it nicely with a razor blade, from the back of the bag, that in most cases if the part was wrong, but in new condition,he could take it back.

 

Thanks, Went to the honda dealer today and got it for 30 bucks, now just waiting for motor mounts to come in and swap should be under way by tuesday. Thanks for everyone's input

 

Did your Ody tranny end up working for you?

 

Mine is working for great me. I'm at 114,000+ miles now. I forget the actual mileage at the swap. I think I'm over 10,000 miles.

The problem now is that a 16 Year old kid hit the passenger side behind the door. $1800 in damage. Kid's Insurance is denying the claim because the kid says the wife pulled out in front of him. She was going straight through the intersection, he was turning right. She was 80% of the way through the intersection and then he made a right hand turn into her passenger side. How did he not see her? I'm thinking the kid is somebody important's relative...