4" into 3" for the TB if I'm not mistaken . Price ?

 

According to his build thread it is 3.5". I'll text him later today and ask to make sure. Just pm fox for price, this isn't a for sale thread.

 

Oh , no for sale thread ?



Juss kidding .

 

I am pretty much done with the drilling and grinding on the rear bumper beam. I still have a little clean up then time to paint. The beam started at 17 lbs and it now weighs 11 lbs, so a reduction of 6 lbs. I don't think I can think of any harder way to remove 6 lbs than this.

Front


Back


Top


Bottom I outlined in red where the tow hook will attach.


It is so pretty. Shame it will be hidden out of sight.

 

Brian, you have issues

 

I second this .

 

Yes I know. I am probably more obsessed over my cl than any other cl owner there is. Atleast I can have one car for 12 years and still be excited and passionate about it. I love every time I drive it and work on it.

Now back to the build progress.

I think I came up with a solution to replace the broken stud on my rear bumper beam without any welding.

I am thinking of grinding down the stud and drilling a hole(outlined in red).


Then I would either enlarge this existing hole on the bottom or create a new hole that I can fit a wrench in. I will just use a bolt and a nut on the other side.


I received the long tube headers in the mail the other day from fox. Thnx again fox.


I just need to grind down the pipe lip where they meet the flange.


Then I will send them off to be ceramic coated. Still need to find a shop to coat them for me.

Then I need to decide what to do with the exhaust and what shop to make it for me.

Received some of my new intake parts. 4" UBI tube kit, blox 4" velocity stack, K&N filter, K&N crankcase filter, and 4" mishimoto t-bolt clamps. I am still waiting on silicone reducer and silicone couplers.


I plan on installing it like in the pics villo169 posted on page 38 of his track build thread.

I just need to figure out what to do with these hose connections on the egr and valve cover. Whether or not I add a filter on or just can block them off. Any suggestions?


That is all for now.

 

Nice pick up.
ive had the swain coating for awhile and it looks just like it did when i put them on.

 

those headers are sick! Nice pickup.

on the intake, do all those bends clip together, or do you have to cut it where you want?

 

I want to see if I can find a place local to avoid shipping. If not ill look into swain or maybe jet hot.

If you notice the ribbed parts, you cut in between the ribs. I won't even end up using half of the tubing provided. I plan on doing it with 2 sections and just one silicone coupler in between them. I will post pics when I do it to show clearly everything involved.

 

After researching ceramic coatings, I think I will go with swain tech's white lightning exhaust coating.

Info here:
http://swaintech.com/race-coatings/r...aust-coatings/

It might not be the prettiest coating but it is real ceramic and should be better at heat reduction in the engine bay. White Lightning is applied about .015” thick compared to about .002” thick for the cosmetic coatings.

Then it is whether or not I get the inside coated. "On naturally aspirated motors (non-turbo), we will typically coat the inside of headers as deep as possible. However, if we think the coating will interfere with the fit of the header to the motor or the header to the mating exhaust part, we will typically mask off those surfaces."

I will need to mask the pipe sections where the slip fit collector goes over otherwise they wont fit after coating.


My silicone reducer and couplers arrived.


If you need 4" silicone couplers I would recommend these.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Silicone-Straight-Hose-Coupler-102mm-4-inch-Turbo-Silicon-Black-/120774546881?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c1eb955c1&vxp=mtr
I noticed my 4" mishimoto t-bolt clamps won't work though. They did not specify that they work from the range of about 3.5" to 4" max. When you add a silicone coupler to a 4' pipe it is too big for the clamp. I ordered new clamps that will arrive tomorrow then I can start working on installing intake.

Bumper beam progress

I masked off the broken stud to grind it down then drill it out.


Hole drilled to fit a 7/16" bolt.


I enlarged the hole on the bottom to fit my deep seat socket onto the bolt head so I can tighten down the nut on other side.



I used this magnet wand to remove the metal shaving and also to put the bolt through the hole. Will vacuum the remaining shavings.


Here I am holding the 7/16" bolt in place for reference.


I held the bumper beam with the foam pieces on it up to the rear bumper to mark where to cut a slit for the tow hook through the bumper. I still need to decide what method/tools I want to use to cut the bumper. Slit needs to be larger than what I marked.



I am waiting on the weather to paint the bumper beam. It has been cold, windy, and raining everyday for the last week so no chance yet.

 

All I can think of to say is: WOW. You are so intense on everything you do. I do hope to get my car in for paint work this winter. May not happen though as my 21 year old furnace and A/C unit are needing to be replaced in my house. Also the clothes dryer has started making funny noises. Its probably next to go.

 

I started planning my exhaust. I am still undecided between 1 or 2 mufflers, but I am leaning more towards 1. It will flow better, cost less, and weigh less. The only negative would be looks. I plan on buying a 2nd used cl bumper and cutting a section out to plastic weld to the left exhaust cutout in the bumper. When it is all complete I will have around $3500 or more into just my exhaust.

I drew out a diagram for the hell of it with what I came up with so far. I used all 3" vibrant T304 stainless parts besides the Magnaflow muffler. The resonator can be moved further down if wanted.



Here is the parts list from amazon. Depending on muffler the materials cost 849.21 or 872.60. I will probably have King Motorsports weld it for me.

Magnaflow muffler #14819 $172.05 4" Tip

or Magnaflow muffler #14835 $195.44 7" Tip

Straight Tube 5 ft. #2642 $98.45

45 degree bend x 2 #13102 $45.40 x 2

U-J Bend Tube #2611 $106

Ultra Quiet Resonator #1142 $94.76

Turboflex Coupling 6" #61006 $76.42

Exhaust hangers #1198 $59.15

V-Band Flange Assembly x 2 #1491 $75.79 x 2

 

isn't the resonator usually placed after the 45 bends?

 

Yes that is where the stock mid muffler is. You can place it either before or after. I don't have a cat to worry about space.

Here is another site you can buy mandrel bent tubing from. The prices are cheap you just have to keep in mind shipping costs. It would be better if you purchased a big order.

http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/shopping-cart/

With just a few pieces in my cart at 23 lbs shipping weight they are charging me $61.30 for shipping. My amazon prices are all with free 2 day shipping. That makes it still less expensive but not by that much.

 

Well done .

 

I wonder how the exhaust note would change if the resonator is closer to the front. That's an expensive experiment though. Your exhaust is going to be ideal!

 

That is how 1foxbody has his resonator installed. Check his build thread for pics.

Did a little work on the 4" intake today.

The hole that the intake tube goes thru was not big enough for my massive whale penis so I had to open it up with a lot of force.

Here is the opening before.


Here it is after a lot of grinding with a dremel.


Here is the main tube section I will use.


Attached to tb.


I still need to do the section behind the bumper.

I think I will have enough tube to make another intake that can clear a stock battery and sell it if anyone is interested.

 

Let me know if the 2nd goes through id definitely be interested.

 

I got some work done on the intake today.

This pic shows the velocity stack attached to the 4" tubing.


The tubing is thicker than the velocity stack so it leaves that hard edge sticking out. I beveled the inside edge on both ends of the tubing. You can somewhat see it in this pic.


I sanded down those ridges on the pipe and also the mold seam, then I hand sanded the whole pipe except for the very ends to smooth it all out perfectly.


I rubbed the intake tubing with spray adhesive then wrapped it in mishimoto gold heat reflective tape. The spray adhesive will help bond the tape to the plastic.


I should be able to finish it up tomorrow.

 

Great work Brian. I have maybe a dumb question... since the velocity stack doesn't have a filter would you have to worry about any debris sucking up in the intake?

 

I finished up the intake today. I must say it turned out better than I could have expected. The filter is a tight fit, but it does fit.

I added these rubber pieces with a sticky backing for the intake tube to sit on.


I was able to install the intake without removing the bumper or jacking the car up. I just peeled back the fenderwell trim and attached the velocity stack and filter from below.

Here are the finished pics. Just need to clip the fenderwell trim back up.



Here is the filter looking thru the fog light hole. It is kind of resting on that bolt.


Here is what I came up with for a 2nd intake to clear stock battery with the left over tubing. You have to make intake so much bigger just to clear battery.

 

MY filter attaches to the velocity stack. It is filtered. Not a dumb question btw.

 

Ok I have seen a lot of people that have the velocity sticking out of the front bumper. After looking at the pics i see exactly how it works.

 

looks great! does the intake need any support or does it seem pretty solid? Have you driven the car yet? Let us know how it feels.

 

Nice work on the intake. Besides where it connects to the TB, how is its weight supported? Or is it light enough even with the filter that it doesn't need support?

 

^ it's pretty solid

Brian you should consider moving the IAT sensor up to the intake and get it out of the hot intake manifold.

 

It might require some support so it does not move at high g load. It would be fine under cornering or accelerating but not sure about heavy braking. It is resting on those rubber pads and the filter flange is resting on that bolt head. I might just go the easy route and use a zip tie just above filter. The intake probably only weighs about 3 lbs.

Never thought about that I will look into it. I have the tb spacer, thermal gaskets, coolant delete, ceramic coated IM and my headers will be ceramic coated also. That should help with engine bay heat.

 

With the 09 manifold you have no choice but to move it into the intake. It should still make a difference because it is only reading the cooler air coming into the intake. I wish I would have seen what tmperature it was at before moving it to the intake.

 

I was reading up on IAT relocation earlier. Will do some more research on it before deciding.

I did take some tb measurements just to see what I can do in the future.

Stock tb measures 65/68mm. 65 would be IM side and 68 the intake tube side.

My maxbore bored tb has a 68/70mm bore.

The oem type s IM neck can only be ported to 71-72mm according to reese. He was able to open the flange area to 74mm tho. He is running a 74mm blox b series tb i believe.

So I could possibly upgrade to a 72 or 74mm blox b series tb later on.

If that is not enough then you could do 09 TL IM and a 76mm b series tb.

I kind of want to stick to my oem IM. I just like how it looks with my shiny polished p2r plenums. I cant believe I just said I choose looks over performance. Someone slap some sense in me.

On a side note I really like the design of this velocity stack over mine I think. It will weigh more and is expensive tho. Might add 1-2 hp.
http://www.turbohoses.com/velocity_stack.htm

 

nice built! I got 01cls, same color. R u from Chi area?

 

I am located in the NW suburbs how about you?

 

09 tl intake manifold is lighter for more weight reduction

 

I think after porting stock IM the weight difference is only around 3 lbs maybe less.

I supported the intake using a 18" zip tie. I removed the wire clip and opened up the clip hole for the zip tie to go thru. This thing is definately not moving at all now.


I added 2 1/2" K&N crankcase filters. Is there a better way to do this?


I noticed these mufflers when searching online. Might look into using these.
http://www.coastfab.com/mufflers.html
http://www.saferacer.com/coast-fabri...racing-muffler


I was looking at the ct icebox earlier and think I came up with a solution to modify it.

First off this is the 4" UBI tubing. I should point out the outside diameter is 4" but the inside diameter is actually 3.6".


Here is the tubing that attaches to the bottom of the icebox. The inside diameter is 3.3".


Here is the top section of the icebox tubing. It has an inner diameter of 2.5 or 2.6". This is what I would replace.


Here is the icebox filter and the tube it connects to. The filter has a 4" inner flange diameter perfect for 4" UBI tube.


So you could upgrade the top tube section to 3.5" or 4" tubing. Then you would use a 3.5" or 4" filter.

Here is the filter on the 4" UBI tubing.


Then all you need to do is open this hole up to 3.5 or 4".


So the setup would be a velocity stack with 3.3" Inner od tubing going to the icebox. Then a 4" filter attached to tubing that is 3.6" inner od or a little less if you go with 3.5". Then just need a silicone reducer that goes down to 3" for the tb.

I might keep one now so I can modify and keep it incase I want to use in the future.

 

Here are the 2 top tube sections.


It seems like a perfect fit and an easy way to mod it to me. Then you don't have to be concerned with rain/flooding filter.

 

Now that would be perfect for me! (And cheaper). How much do you want for that remaining tube?

 

Since you are one of the few frequent posters in my thread you can have it for free. You can just pay shipping. Just pm me your address and I will give you a shipping quote.

I should add you might need to cut it into 2 sections and use a coupler just so you can move it a little and get a more perfect fit.

I would also cut a section if coupler or something else and put it on the tube right before entering icebox. That would prevent the tube and filter moving inside the icebox.

You could also cut/grind a groove into the tube like how the stock icebox tube works. This would be the harder option.

 

That's amazing! Thank you! Pm coming.

 

You are welcome.

I wanted to ask about your setup. Are you using a tb spacer? Do you know what silicone reducer you will use? My reducer is 6" long but most are only 3". All this makes a difference in what tubing length is needed.

Here is a pic of all the left over tubing. Do you want either of the shorter sections? You can have it all if you want.


I decided to sell both iceboxes instead of keeping one. I need the money for other things. Both are already spoken for.

Bumper beam primed and painted flat black. I had to paint it under my deck in 45 degree weather and 15 mph winds. Surprisingly it came out perfect.



I am letting the paint fully cure. Then I will need to cut out a slot in rear bumper for tow hook and reinstall it all. Want to get this done so I can drive it and test the new intake.

I ordered O2 bungs and new oem exhaust manifold gaskets. Once those arrive I will clean up the pipe lips were it meats the flange, take it to a shop to weld O2 bungs on, then ship them off to swaintech for coating.

 

the section of pipe from the icebox filter to the TB is pretty short as you can see. I'm probably only going to need a 90 and a small section of pipe then use a silicone 90 degree reducer (4"-3").