nice. I don't think I have ever seen 1 in person.

I tried fitting a rear over fender for a s2000. I thought for sure the fitment would be way off, but to my surprise it actually fits quite well. It looks a little odd from the front because of the angle and how far it sticks out. It could be trimmed up some though since it is urethane. It is flexible so can be forced into place. Even on the s2000 it is not meant to go all the way to the bottom of the bumper. It is made to meet the lip kit. Would need much bigger wheels and tires and could have it meet with the ron jon kit.

 

I ordered new progress rear sway bushings and replaced them.

Here is what a new bushing looks like with the ribbing on the inside.


Here is my old bushing with the ribbing completely rubbed off.

 

Bushing was beat !

Fender is a little sharp but I'm sure would mold nicely . But the cl fits a 9.5 rim all around so I don't see it as largely necessary .

 

I am mainly trying to figure out what way to go with fixing my rusted rear fender. I could have a bodyshop remove that rear panel and weld in a new one, but we would be talking thousands of dollars. It would probably cost half of the cars value not even including repaint etc.

I was just trying to see if there are any other solutions besides spending over 3 grand to fix it or just leaving it as is.

On a side note my cl will not fit a 9.5 with the tires I want to use. You would have to use tiny tires and stretch them which I will not do.

 

Yeah true I mean a 255/45/17 would probabaly fit on like a 9" rim with some pull on the fender . But I'm not sure .

First owner and rust ? Well that blows man .

 

Im having this issue right now. I have 9.5" is the back with 215/35 and they are stretched to hell. I hate it! it looks like I don't even have tread on the tires, so I don't blame you for not wanting to stretch them.. Im also on springs and you have coils which is a big difference.

 

Nice fenders

 

Yea my passenger rear fender has rust issues. It has been rusted for many years now. The rust began before the car was even 5 years old. The machines that seal the cars must have been calibrated off when it applied the sealant on that corner. It is definitely some kind of defect that should not have happened. It has been bugging me for awhile so I really want to get it fixed.



I noticed the over fender I test fit was on the wrong side. It might look better going the other direction.


I did probably my last autox of the year yesterday. I ended up in 4th place again out of 8 drivers.

Here is the video of my last and fastest run. I thought my little fist pump at the end was rather funny. Who do I think I am Sebastian Vettel? I was just excited that I dropped almost .9 seconds on that last run. I was running the wrong tire pressures most of the day and was just beginning to dial it in.

 

not much got new car but not a acura. got married and kid too :P

 

Grats on the life advancements. Sounds like you will be very busy. Glad you still stop by to see what's up.

 

After doing a few autox events I think my brakes are the weak link in my car atm. They are fine for street driving but just do not give the bite I want.

I could upgrade from ebc yellowstuff pads to carbotech's. I have heard that carbotech's squeal when used on the road tho. BBK could have the same issues.

I plan on going with a stoptech bbk that I have never seen used on an acura before. I have 1 grand saved so far from selling parts.

The other thing is tires. Everyone in my class that is getting better times then me is either on r-comp tires or slicks. I think I could get some first place finishes just by changing tires.

Maybe I should buy a set of enkei rpf1's and throw some slicks or r-comps on them. Then I can just change setups at the event before running. Price is the issue though.

 

Maybe get tires before brakes? See how much of a difference it makes before going bbk. I haven't seen the stoptechs on an acura so I can't wait to see how they perform.

 

 

My current star specs still have a lot of life left, so I think I will use them for another season. Then I can decide what to do about tires.

I always wanted a bbk and these aren't your ordinary stoptechs. That is why I said I haven't seen them on an acura before because I have seen normal stoptechs on acuras before. I can also get a great deal on them.

I am not good with secrets so here is a link to the bbk I will get.
http://www.stoptech.com/products/big...s/trophy-sport

 

I have been itching to work on the car and remove more weight. Damn addiction. Since my autocross season is over I thought now would be a good time to start ripping her apart.

I removed the rear bumper so I can clean, remove weight from bumper beam, and clean up some rust.

I had to remove the taillights to get at a screw underneath that holds bumper onto the frame. It did not mention this in the service manual.

Bumper and tailights removed.



Here you can see some corrosion/rust I will clean up.

 

The rear bumper beam is attached slightly different then the front was. There are studs that are welded to the body of the car and the beam is held on by nuts to those studs.

I sprayed them with lubricant and waited 30 minutes. I tried to remove 1 nut from each side, but the studs both snapped off from rust.

So now it is attached at 1 point on each side instead of 2. (You can see the left lower one is where the stud snapped off)


I can either leave it alone and move on, or I can try to remove the remaining nuts which will probably rip off, then I will have to have a shop weld it back on.

Hmm what to do.

 

Damn, you're nuts dude, can't wait to see what you do

 

The car is coming along nicely!! Someone told me (can't remember who atm) you might be interested in my long tube headers I plan to put up for sale shortly. They should be finished any day now. Once they are complete I'm contemplating if I should have them ceramic coated or not. Let me know if you're interested thank you!

 

Why are you selling them? Ditching the car? I bet it was civic who told you. I was thinking about buying his headers but he stopped replying to my pm's and didn't seem eager to sell. I have also talked to king motorsports about making me a set. Only issue with that is it is over a 1 hour drive away and the car would need to be dropped off and left for awhile.

I have a lot I want to do. The hard part is figuring out what order to do them in.

 

I'm selling them because I decided to take the cl to the next level. I'm going the turbo route and going to be using Matt Hickhams turbo manifolds. Definitely not ditching the car lol! I know your anal and I am also. Since I didn't want my car sitting at my own friends shop I brought a whole subframe up there from the cl so he can build the headers around it perfectly. Check my build thread I just posted a little update with pictures.

 

Amazing work Brian. Lets see some pics with the s2k fenders?

 

Can you pm me the details when you get a chance.

 

I was able to remove the bumper beam without ripping off the last 2 studs. I bought and used a propane torch to help loosen them up. Wish I would have done that for the first 2 but too late now. The bumper beam weighs 17 lbs.



I have been working on it slowly. The last time I did all this drilling/grinding I had some tendinitis issues with my thumbs. Here is all I have done so far.

 

Sure can, I'm making a for sale ad right now also. I should be finished shortly.

 

that sucks about the snapped bolts, definitely a good call with getting the torch

 

 

Here's the pictures of my old modified comptech headers which my uncle is using and a unmodified comptech j pipe that I sold. Gives you a good example what polished ceramic coating is.

 

Here is my progress on the rear bumper beam.

I still need to figure out where I want to mount rear tow hook.

Rear- Rear is basically done besides primer and paint.


Front- Front is close to done. Still needs some cleanup.


Top & Bottom- Grinded it down, still need to drill holes and clean up.



I have decided to go a slightly different direction. I will be doing a custom header, 3" exhaust, and a 3.5" or 4" airaid U-build-it intake instead of a bbk.

I will have comptech 6 speed headers, xlr8's newest test pipe, tanabe cat-back, and 1 or 2 comptech icebox's for a 6 speed to sell once all this is done.

I plan on doing a before and after dyno. I want to see what I can put down before deciding if I want to try and get the aem ems to work.

 

When do you plan on getting custom headers ? Put me in line for the headers , these rare parts I need for my silver 6 speed

 

Do a 4" intake I used the 4" Airaid UBI kit with a k&n filter.

 

I actually purchased the set 1foxbody was selling, sorry. I thought that would be better/easier than having a shop build them for me. Otherwise I would have to drop the car off for weeks, maybe months and have them drop the subframe and engine to mock them up. I still need to add a flex pipe, 02 bung, v-band clamps and get the rear exhaust section fabbed. I will be ceramic coating the headers. I will do a before and after dyno to make sure the gains are worth it for all the money being spent.


That is what I plan on doing. I actually posted a thread about the UBI kits when they were first released and convinced a few people to go that route.

I am gonna stick with my ported IM with p2r plenums and bored stock tb for now. P2r saw great gains with this setup so I want to try this out first. I might consider the shawd mani and b series tb in the future.

I plan on getting the 4" UBI tube kit only plus their 4"-3" silicone reducer. Then I will get a 4" velocity stack with a 6" flange. Then I will buy a K&N filter with a 6" flange and connect that to the velocity stack. The filter will be right behind my modified vent/fog light location.

 

Get in Line Mike. I asked Brian to consider selling the headers to me, when he's ready

Brian: It looks like you have really lightend up the bumper supports. I guess they will not fair as well should any one rear end you or impact your bumpers? Be careful man!

 

Mike is talking about the custom long tube headers. I believe you are talking about the comptech headers. They are different headers. I know you wanted the comptechs and are first in line when sell them.

The bumper supports will be 10 lbs each when I am done. They were around 17 lbs stock. The beams are so heavy and very thick steel. I think they should still be very strong. I am not too concerned, plus lots of cars have aluminum ones which aren't nearly as strong. I know a lot of people who completely removed them. I wasn't willing to go that far plus the bumpers need some support so they don't sag.

 

Looking forward to the exhaust setup! Those headers Are sick and obviously made well. Good call! Can't wait for dyno results.

 

Here is what I am looking at for intake parts.

4" Airaid UBI tube kit. $90


K&N filter - one i posted has a cf cap but you can save money getting a different cap.
http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...x?prod=RP-5168

Airaid 4"-3" reducer $50 This seems like the best silicone reducer I saw online. Seems really pricey at $50 though. It is 6" long and has a long transition. All the other silicone reducers I saw are 3" and the taper is only like an inch long.
http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-...id/AR9110.html

Blox 4" composite velocity stack $35 This has a 4" opening and a 6" outer flange area. You just attach filter onto this.


Then still need to buy silicone couplers and clamps.

It seems pretty expensive for a plastic intake, but should be worth it in performance gains.

 

Siliconeintakes.com seems cheap for couplings/reducers. I like that airaid kit...I might go with that also.

 

I like Greg's intake setup , I think he said he would charge like $400 have one made and shipped .

And actually I was talking about the comptecs , O;dman and I are about to have to bid on these bad boys !

 

Yea that is another option if you want an aluminum intake instead of plastic. Just requires some welding and a lil more money. wonder what the weight differences are.



So I wanted to ask for opinions on mufflers. I will most likely do a 3" that splits into 2.

I could just go with the standard vibrant or magnaflow mufflers but I think I wanna do something else.

I really like the sound of my tanabe mufflers and they do have a few universal mufflers. My first concern though is that the muffler tubing is 60mm(2.37"). Do you think a 3" split to 2.37" is enough or does it need to split to 2.5"? I am also wondering how straight through the tanabe mufflers are and if that will restrict power more than the others?


Here are their universal options.
http://www.tanabe-usa.com/tunermedalion.asp?id=4#



I think the TUN404 part number ones would work perfect with our bumper cutout just like my current mufflers. The round ones would have gaps on the sides.

I just looked on magnaflow's site and I don't even see any 2.5" mufflers only 2.25 or 3. Hmm. The cores are 2.5 but inlet is 2.25.

Any opinions or suggestions welcome. Never built a custom exhaust before.

 

I can't wait to see before and after dyno results with the long tube headers! I'm sure you won't be disappointed. Now that I'm going turbo I'm probably doing to sell my cold air intake minus the air filter since mine is trashed. Let me know if any of you guys would be interested.

 

Ah man now you are tempting me to spend more money. Is your intake 3.5" or 4"?