Yungone501's- Excessive infatuation with the J-series
05-19-2013, 02:02 PM
#443
Nothing, it's disabled during fuel/ignition tuning for the low lift cam profile. After the low lift profile fuel/ignition tables are dialed in, then the high lift cam profile (or VTEC) is enabled again and tuned. This way makes the tuning process much more simplified. It would literally be like trying to tune an engine that has two distinct camshafts at once.
This works better because if the low lift tables are tuned all the way through to the redline, and then the high lift tables are done the same way, you can change VTEC engagement/disengagement points to anywhere without needing to go back and retune because they were done separately. Does this make sense?
You can also disable all sorts of emissions systems but from what little I've seen (and I haven't really looked too far into it yet) it appears that modifying ANY emissions related system keeps the readiness status' unable to become completed. Which could cause problems for state inspections.
This works better because if the low lift tables are tuned all the way through to the redline, and then the high lift tables are done the same way, you can change VTEC engagement/disengagement points to anywhere without needing to go back and retune because they were done separately. Does this make sense?
You can also disable all sorts of emissions systems but from what little I've seen (and I haven't really looked too far into it yet) it appears that modifying ANY emissions related system keeps the readiness status' unable to become completed. Which could cause problems for state inspections.
05-21-2013, 10:57 PM
#444
While i didnt have any time today for tuning (although i did catch about 40 min of datalog) I managed to squeeze a few more things into the car today while at the shop.
1. Installed some 1-step cooler NGK copper plugs (pn: BKR7E) and gapped them to .030" to see if this reduced the very small levels of knock retard I was seeing under boost. I'm sure that a full 2-steps cooler would be where I need to be but I've learned from the nitrous world that its always better to work in incremental stages when making any adjustments such as fuel, nitrous, ignition, etc... I haven't reviewed any of the data yet because I left my laptop charger at the shop but I could've sworn I (as in myself and not Hondata) I was detecting a slight hesitation as the engine made that transition from vacuum to boost but I need to confirm this. Old plugs showed signs of being lean at one point in time (probably before Hondata was added to the ECM) but were beginning to change to a much cleaner color. That's a good sign. Overall, spark plug gap was dropped from a fat .043" down to slim .030" as mentioned. I'll update more on this later once additional road time/tuning have been done.
2. I've noticed that there's an immense amount of heat that's been radiating from the floor board of the car, particularly down the center where the exhaust system is routed towards the rear of the car before splitting into duals. So I figured I'd try and combat this with some more heat resistant armor.
I still had another roll of DEI header wrap left from wrapping the manifolds so I used this and did the area right below where the shifter and center console sits. It most definitely made a notable difference on the trip home after work BUT I feel like there could be more heat that I could remove so ill try and do this within the next day or so. I've decided on doing the entire length of the exhaust system up the rear split as well as all tubing ahead of collector from the down pipe. And btw, I used stainless hose clamps to hold both the beginning and end of the length that was wrapped. And every other 10-12" or so, I used stainless zip ties for added assurance. Here's a shot of what was done today:
2. I'll keep this one simple- A fire extinguisher!
3. GoPro Hero2 camera setup was also installed and mounted to what use to be the headliner...the ceiling. I picked a nice centered spot that would show as much as possible as well as provide nice footage for everyone to see what sort of magic happens in a boosted J.
4. Installed a mesh screen to protect the FMIC and also improved looks a little. This front end is temporary so it'll do for now.
5. Almost forgot, I also added a Eibach rear sway too. The damn kit was missing one of the U shaped brackets so I ended up having to make one. You can actually see that the bracket on the right isn't gold...came out perfectly though.
1. Installed some 1-step cooler NGK copper plugs (pn: BKR7E) and gapped them to .030" to see if this reduced the very small levels of knock retard I was seeing under boost. I'm sure that a full 2-steps cooler would be where I need to be but I've learned from the nitrous world that its always better to work in incremental stages when making any adjustments such as fuel, nitrous, ignition, etc... I haven't reviewed any of the data yet because I left my laptop charger at the shop but I could've sworn I (as in myself and not Hondata) I was detecting a slight hesitation as the engine made that transition from vacuum to boost but I need to confirm this. Old plugs showed signs of being lean at one point in time (probably before Hondata was added to the ECM) but were beginning to change to a much cleaner color. That's a good sign. Overall, spark plug gap was dropped from a fat .043" down to slim .030" as mentioned. I'll update more on this later once additional road time/tuning have been done.
2. I've noticed that there's an immense amount of heat that's been radiating from the floor board of the car, particularly down the center where the exhaust system is routed towards the rear of the car before splitting into duals. So I figured I'd try and combat this with some more heat resistant armor.
I still had another roll of DEI header wrap left from wrapping the manifolds so I used this and did the area right below where the shifter and center console sits. It most definitely made a notable difference on the trip home after work BUT I feel like there could be more heat that I could remove so ill try and do this within the next day or so. I've decided on doing the entire length of the exhaust system up the rear split as well as all tubing ahead of collector from the down pipe. And btw, I used stainless hose clamps to hold both the beginning and end of the length that was wrapped. And every other 10-12" or so, I used stainless zip ties for added assurance. Here's a shot of what was done today:2. I'll keep this one simple- A fire extinguisher!
3. GoPro Hero2 camera setup was also installed and mounted to what use to be the headliner...the ceiling. I picked a nice centered spot that would show as much as possible as well as provide nice footage for everyone to see what sort of magic happens in a boosted J.
4. Installed a mesh screen to protect the FMIC and also improved looks a little. This front end is temporary so it'll do for now.
5. Almost forgot, I also added a Eibach rear sway too. The damn kit was missing one of the U shaped brackets so I ended up having to make one. You can actually see that the bracket on the right isn't gold...came out perfectly though.
Last edited by yungone501; 05-21-2013 at 11:04 PM.
05-22-2013, 08:52 AM
#445
Senior Moderator
Funny you ask, ive been stuck out of town for the past 2 weeks and havent done anything or thinking about the car till last night. Got the call from acura and the bearings and con rods have been lifted of the back order. I should see them by the end of the week if im lucky. Though ill keep you updated. Thank you very much for the offer though, I really do appreciate it.
05-22-2013, 08:57 AM
#446
Senior Moderator
awesome as usual. For more heat reduction, try adding a 2nd heat shield, or remove the large heat shield and get the spray on heat shield (something like lizzardskin) apply that to the body then put the oem one back on. 
Last edited by fsttyms1; 05-22-2013 at 08:59 AM.
05-22-2013, 09:52 AM
#447
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the DEI exhaust wraps are awesome....I wrapped my true duals in them and I can actually touch the exhaust after a nice drive on a hot day !!!
eager to see more progress...
05-23-2013, 11:55 PM
#449
Got a 40psi Hondata MAP sensor to replace the stock 10psi limited sensor. Although I only have 3.5psi springs installed into the wastegates right now (made for a easier learning on tune), I'll end up with atleast 12-15psi springs before its all said and done.
Nearly finished wrapping the exhaust. As I mentioned, I'll be wrapping to the split on the duals. Because I do so much city, stop-and-go driving (the car is my daily driver for those who didn't know), I want to try and reduce the amount of heat that's been radiating from my floor board. I'll also be adding AC to the car by this weekend because I feel I've put WAY too much into this car without being able to enjoy it.
Lastly, I wanted to replace the 255lph Walbro in-tank pump with a higher volume pump to feed the surge tank. The Walbro is roughly a third of the size of this Bosch 040 and the Bosch only puts out 300lph...that still says alot for the Walbro. This pump also allows me to tap for a threaded AN fitting rather than a rubber fuel line and hose clamps.
Got started on the high speed (VTEC) fuel table and its going much quicker than the low speed tuning. And I really have to say one thing about the hype of tuning...It's not really as tough as alot of folks make it out to be. I mean, after literally teaching myself how to use Hondata and just starting out slow, I am honestly shocked at how difficult tuning really is NOT. I am not saying there's not much more that I don't know and sure, my experience level won't make me the best tuner ever. It all comes down to basic common sense about engines and how they co-function with fuel injection electronics.
I'll try and break the scene down for those who may be curious at to what street tuning with Hondata (most tuners all work basically the same way) consists of. When you initially configure the tuner for a first time startup or as a mod, you simply create something what many call a "base map". This is nothing more than entering in (or selecting) specific information about your car to the tuner about your vehicles setup. It took me dialing in a specific injector size and fuel pressure to get the engine started after adding both the turbo and all of its required parts such as the added/upgraded fuel system components...namely, the 1000cc injectors. After doing this, the engine started immediately. From this point, you set all other basic configurations/parameters that may affect tuning or cause problems...or, just to modify them by preference. After this, you simply drive the car while data logging. Data logging is a fancy name for recording engine/tranmission information like AFR, Map signal, coolant temp, rpms, etc that is necessary for the tuning process. Once you've collected your datalog, you can analyze this information and make necessary fuel/ignition changes accordingly. There's even a setting that allows for auto-tuning as well as recommended fuel/ignition changes on your map.
Since a few months ago, I've been doing some very in depth research on tuning in general and one of the things that I can now understand is the argument between the two tuning methods: dyno tuning and street tuning. Tuning on a dyno generally involves a collection of WOT pulls to collect a datalog in which the tuner adjust the map in accordance with. This method is ideal for those wanting the absolute most power from their engines while literally having little to no concern about all the other areas of the powerband (other than WOT) such as closed throttle (CT) and part throttle (PT) tuning...which is where those who daily drive their cars are at 98% of the time. IMO, this is what makes street tuning optimal for people other than "track only" cars. You can submit the vehicle through the actual conditions the car will be in and tune the engine perfectly. This way, you get awesome idle smoothness, drivability, fuel mileage and performance. Sure, the edge may be taken away from the perfromance aspect of the tune because you didn't have the dyno there to catch that extra 5-10hp from the engine....who cares! Now you have a engine/tune combo that will give you comfort, reliability and performance. I'd say sacrificing that small amount of power is well worth what you receive from street tuning.
I NOW speak from experience on that topic. I have friends that have dyno tunes and their cars are fast at full boost...at the track. But they can't really say they enjoy driving their car everyday as I do. And when I get AC installed on this machine, I wouldn't have done anything ANY other way. I love my car.
Nearly finished wrapping the exhaust. As I mentioned, I'll be wrapping to the split on the duals. Because I do so much city, stop-and-go driving (the car is my daily driver for those who didn't know), I want to try and reduce the amount of heat that's been radiating from my floor board. I'll also be adding AC to the car by this weekend because I feel I've put WAY too much into this car without being able to enjoy it.
Lastly, I wanted to replace the 255lph Walbro in-tank pump with a higher volume pump to feed the surge tank. The Walbro is roughly a third of the size of this Bosch 040 and the Bosch only puts out 300lph...that still says alot for the Walbro. This pump also allows me to tap for a threaded AN fitting rather than a rubber fuel line and hose clamps.
Got started on the high speed (VTEC) fuel table and its going much quicker than the low speed tuning. And I really have to say one thing about the hype of tuning...It's not really as tough as alot of folks make it out to be. I mean, after literally teaching myself how to use Hondata and just starting out slow, I am honestly shocked at how difficult tuning really is NOT. I am not saying there's not much more that I don't know and sure, my experience level won't make me the best tuner ever. It all comes down to basic common sense about engines and how they co-function with fuel injection electronics.
I'll try and break the scene down for those who may be curious at to what street tuning with Hondata (most tuners all work basically the same way) consists of. When you initially configure the tuner for a first time startup or as a mod, you simply create something what many call a "base map". This is nothing more than entering in (or selecting) specific information about your car to the tuner about your vehicles setup. It took me dialing in a specific injector size and fuel pressure to get the engine started after adding both the turbo and all of its required parts such as the added/upgraded fuel system components...namely, the 1000cc injectors. After doing this, the engine started immediately. From this point, you set all other basic configurations/parameters that may affect tuning or cause problems...or, just to modify them by preference. After this, you simply drive the car while data logging. Data logging is a fancy name for recording engine/tranmission information like AFR, Map signal, coolant temp, rpms, etc that is necessary for the tuning process. Once you've collected your datalog, you can analyze this information and make necessary fuel/ignition changes accordingly. There's even a setting that allows for auto-tuning as well as recommended fuel/ignition changes on your map.
Since a few months ago, I've been doing some very in depth research on tuning in general and one of the things that I can now understand is the argument between the two tuning methods: dyno tuning and street tuning. Tuning on a dyno generally involves a collection of WOT pulls to collect a datalog in which the tuner adjust the map in accordance with. This method is ideal for those wanting the absolute most power from their engines while literally having little to no concern about all the other areas of the powerband (other than WOT) such as closed throttle (CT) and part throttle (PT) tuning...which is where those who daily drive their cars are at 98% of the time. IMO, this is what makes street tuning optimal for people other than "track only" cars. You can submit the vehicle through the actual conditions the car will be in and tune the engine perfectly. This way, you get awesome idle smoothness, drivability, fuel mileage and performance. Sure, the edge may be taken away from the perfromance aspect of the tune because you didn't have the dyno there to catch that extra 5-10hp from the engine....who cares! Now you have a engine/tune combo that will give you comfort, reliability and performance. I'd say sacrificing that small amount of power is well worth what you receive from street tuning.
I NOW speak from experience on that topic. I have friends that have dyno tunes and their cars are fast at full boost...at the track. But they can't really say they enjoy driving their car everyday as I do. And when I get AC installed on this machine, I wouldn't have done anything ANY other way. I love my car.
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Sonnick (06-04-2013)
05-24-2013, 07:14 AM
#450
Air conditioning should have came before the turbo...ehehe
In the winter you can take the wraps off and get your money back de-icing driveways with that thing.
I hope you have a working radio or something as well, and hid headlights, you know, the basics
In the winter you can take the wraps off and get your money back de-icing driveways with that thing.
I hope you have a working radio or something as well, and hid headlights, you know, the basics
05-24-2013, 10:10 AM
#451
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looks awesome Robert....
...and am still waiting on a reply
...and am still waiting on a reply
05-24-2013, 12:42 PM
#453
Sorry man, haven't really had time to respond to anyone here lately. This is the busy part of the season for me here at the shop. It's like I barely have any time for myself anymore and as you can see, I haven't really done much with the car here lately. I won't forget about you .
I already have 08 TL-S paddle shifters. Come on man, give me some credit here bud. I do like the RL wheels and I've already bought one with the entire column and everything but just haven't had the desire or need to install it. I'm a step ahead of you though...
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swoosh (05-24-2013)
05-24-2013, 12:54 PM
#454
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its all good....i understand
05-25-2013, 09:38 AM
#456
I would have went with DEI floor and tunnel shield plus gold heat reflective tape over a full exhaust wrap.
I already get blinded every time I drive from those awful adaptive high beams on new cars. I live on a hilly road and have to drive at night with sunglasses on otherwise you get blinded over every hill. I would get pleasure from giving these people a taste of their own blinding medicine.
I already get blinded every time I drive from those awful adaptive high beams on new cars. I live on a hilly road and have to drive at night with sunglasses on otherwise you get blinded over every hill. I would get pleasure from giving these people a taste of their own blinding medicine.
Last edited by brian6speed; 05-25-2013 at 09:43 AM.
05-30-2013, 12:30 AM
#457
As promised, got the GoPro mounted and made a quick video. Doesnt really show much but I was driving through the city and really couldnt show off a whole lot. The car is running 9.4psi of boost and 110 octane race fuel. I am still dialing in the high fuel map so Im not really pushing it too much...didnt even redline it. I have plans on taking it to about 12psi and continuing to run the 110 to keep detonation away as this is a stock motor and wouldnt take much to bend/break a rod or piston...or worse, a sleeve.
I have decided to do a completely forged j35a8 bottom end because I want to do 20psi plus JUST BECAUSE.
So be on the look out for a new build thread just on the engine alone. Who knows, I may even do the 6MT... 
05-30-2013, 07:44 PM
#462
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r8LYx...ature=youtu.be
05-30-2013, 08:02 PM
#463
That worked. I dont know what happened but here is the FUNCTIONING link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r8LYx...ature=youtu.be
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r8LYx...ature=youtu.be
was a bit surprised you used a GoPro and along with such a low resolution.
Was kind of hoping for a hood view or maybe driver view to see the speed.
Instead it was low tech and exhaust bouncing through a tin can and you kept looking at the computer instead of the road...
I pictured you a bit older too.
Let's get the next video in HD!
05-30-2013, 09:12 PM
#464
yea...that worked. Liked how you hit light speed around 3:30
was a bit surprised you used a GoPro and along with such a low resolution.
Was kind of hoping for a hood view or maybe driver view to see the speed.
Instead it was low tech and exhaust bouncing through a tin can and you kept looking at the computer instead of the road...
I pictured you a bit older too.
Let's get the next video in HD!
was a bit surprised you used a GoPro and along with such a low resolution.
Was kind of hoping for a hood view or maybe driver view to see the speed.
Instead it was low tech and exhaust bouncing through a tin can and you kept looking at the computer instead of the road...
I pictured you a bit older too.
Let's get the next video in HD!
I do agree on the camera positioning though, it doesnt show the road and figured it would show more. The convex lens takes away from its ability to focus in further distances but new camera location will be found.
And yeah, I was finishing up my high fuel maps so had to monitor a few things while driving...thats just tuning though.
As for the quality, im still learning here in regards to editing for optimal size/quality. Ill make some better ones. I was really hoping to highlight the turbo boost and BOV but the exhaust is so loud and the positioning of the cam is so far back that it caught very little.
Oh, and as for you thinking I was older...I just age very well.
I'll have another in car video posted by tonight in HD for you guys and this time there will be WOT because im pretty much dead on the AF ratios now. Tomorrow, I'll relocate the cam and get better angles...
05-31-2013, 12:12 AM
#465
Found this video while I was doing some editing tonight. This was a quick little run with a random person at a light in a Camaro SS and a friend of mine happpened to catch it on video. This was when the motor was still naturally aspirated and was putting down 300hp. The Camaro won but Im a man of no shame and it made for some good entertainment. Not a bad race but Id like to see him do that again. 
05-31-2013, 07:59 AM
#471
I'd like to see some drag times or a dyno...
I hope you put those Advic's on!
05-31-2013, 10:16 AM
#473
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@ the video 
Well done Robert...
05-31-2013, 01:18 PM
#474
Dont you have one of them new phones that have internet? ...Or are you still Motorola flippin' it?
Thanks dude. And you know we all expect the same from you once them heads are on and rocking brotha!
Uploading a 928mb video right now...just for you 037.
Thanks dude. And you know we all expect the same from you once them heads are on and rocking brotha!
05-31-2013, 02:04 PM
#476
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Hell yeah !!!
I will be rocking the heads when you get time LOL....
I will be rocking the heads when you get time
LOL....
05-31-2013, 04:21 PM
#479
If you open and save your videos with windows movie maker first it will shrink the size about 1/5 the size before uploading.
Making for faster uploads.
And get that thing to the track,so you and everyone can see the gains as you make them from time to time.
video's are good but,you can't beat slips.
Making for faster uploads.
And get that thing to the track,so you and everyone can see the gains as you make them from time to time.
video's are good but,you can't beat slips.
Last edited by richardparker; 05-31-2013 at 04:35 PM.