Wierd problem, gheyness inside.

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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 10:02 PM
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Question Wierd problem, gheyness inside.

I demodded the top end of my engine...took the cold air intake off, the Type-S intake mani, thermoblock spacers, and the UniChip.

Plugged the battery back in, started her up (obviously with the OEM stuff back in, minus the silencer for the intake) and the flippin RPMs are bouncing up and down like nuts. I put in Neutral and the RPMs are still bouncing up and down. I put in Reverse and Drive and the RPMs stayed at 1k but started to dip up and down like it was going to die when I drove it around a bit.

Curious if any of you guys thinks it is the Idle Air Control Valve. If so, how do you clean it, and/or how would you replace it?

I've already searched but need more insight.

I've already done an ECU reset and still no good.

Thanks,

Tom
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 10:07 PM
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check to make sure you bleed the cooling system properly when you replaced the intake mani gaskets. When I replaced my timing belt on my old accord I had the same situation and it turned out I did not bleed the upper block bleeder valve and solved the problem.
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by The Dougler
check to make sure you bleed the cooling system properly when you replaced the intake mani gaskets. When I replaced my timing belt on my old accord I had the same situation and it turned out I did not bleed the upper block bleeder valve and solved the problem.
how would I go about bleeding it?
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 10:32 PM
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either that or a small split or disconnected vacuum line
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by o1s
either that or a small split or disconnected vacuum line
a small split can make that happen? I'll have to check tomorrow morning.
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 11:57 PM
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i had that problem when i put my S manifold on, i took everything off and put everything back on and retightened and it went away.
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 12:09 AM
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spray all the vacume lines with carb cleaner and see if the idling corrects itself for a second. if it does then there is a leak in one of the lines.
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by o1s
spray all the vacume lines with carb cleaner and see if the idling corrects itself for a second. if it does then there is a leak in one of the lines.
good to hear. I'll check back tomorrow to see if that's the issue.
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 05:51 AM
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whyd you take all your stuff off anyways?
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Silvaccordex01
whyd you take all your stuff off anyways?
pretty sure he's selling it, if i remember correctly
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 07:29 AM
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it is definitely a vacuum line. I remember when i had a line split the rpm's would go insane. Just double check your work and you will find it.
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 08:29 AM
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someone said make sure you bleed the cooling system... why? that wouldn't cause RPMs to fluctuate anyway.

it's a vacuum leak, doesn't necessarily have to be a hose, could just be your intake manifold / runners not lined up properly.
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 10:08 AM
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You sure all your connectors are plugged in.
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 10:49 AM
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If you left the battery unplugged while you were taking everything off then it is probably going throught the IDLE learn procedure. just let it run for like 10 minutes without touching the throttle and it should level out. if it doesnt then your problem is somewhere else.
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 07:50 PM
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found the problem, I was using the wrong gasket for the TB. :ghey:
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 07:59 PM
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good. I was going to say check all gaskets. Sounded like a vacuum leak
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