Wierd problem, gheyness inside.
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Pacific Northwest, blah.
I demodded the top end of my engine...took the cold air intake off, the Type-S intake mani, thermoblock spacers, and the UniChip.
Plugged the battery back in, started her up (obviously with the OEM stuff back in, minus the silencer for the intake) and the flippin RPMs are bouncing up and down like nuts. I put in Neutral and the RPMs are still bouncing up and down. I put in Reverse and Drive and the RPMs stayed at 1k but started to dip up and down like it was going to die when I drove it around a bit.
Curious if any of you guys thinks it is the Idle Air Control Valve. If so, how do you clean it, and/or how would you replace it?
I've already searched but need more insight.
I've already done an ECU reset and still no good.
Thanks,
Tom
Plugged the battery back in, started her up (obviously with the OEM stuff back in, minus the silencer for the intake) and the flippin RPMs are bouncing up and down like nuts. I put in Neutral and the RPMs are still bouncing up and down. I put in Reverse and Drive and the RPMs stayed at 1k but started to dip up and down like it was going to die when I drove it around a bit.
Curious if any of you guys thinks it is the Idle Air Control Valve. If so, how do you clean it, and/or how would you replace it?
I've already searched but need more insight.
I've already done an ECU reset and still no good.
Thanks,
Tom
check to make sure you bleed the cooling system properly when you replaced the intake mani gaskets. When I replaced my timing belt on my old accord I had the same situation and it turned out I did not bleed the upper block bleeder valve and solved the problem.
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Pacific Northwest, blah.
Originally Posted by The Dougler
check to make sure you bleed the cooling system properly when you replaced the intake mani gaskets. When I replaced my timing belt on my old accord I had the same situation and it turned out I did not bleed the upper block bleeder valve and solved the problem.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Pacific Northwest, blah.
Originally Posted by o1s
spray all the vacume lines with carb cleaner and see if the idling corrects itself for a second. if it does then there is a leak in one of the lines.
someone said make sure you bleed the cooling system... why? that wouldn't cause RPMs to fluctuate anyway.
it's a vacuum leak, doesn't necessarily have to be a hose, could just be your intake manifold / runners not lined up properly.
it's a vacuum leak, doesn't necessarily have to be a hose, could just be your intake manifold / runners not lined up properly.
If you left the battery unplugged while you were taking everything off then it is probably going throught the IDLE learn procedure. just let it run for like 10 minutes without touching the throttle and it should level out. if it doesnt then your problem is somewhere else.
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