What N/A mods are left?
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From: Chicago
What N/A mods are left?
I've got XS headers jet hot coated, spacers, Mugen mods, Icebox, UR pulley and NRG dampener. What else is there that will give me noticeable performance gains? I don't have any suspension mods yet, but I do have cross drilled and slotted rotors all the way around. I could stand to replace the clutch since I'm still on the original after 95k miles.
I went to the track Saturday and only ran 4 times with a best of a 14.4 @ 96. I've been to the track before to spectate but this was my first time actually running. I didn't red light once and kind of powerfully eased out of 1st on take off to avoid wheel hop and wheel spin. I'd like to get to lower 14's or high 13's if possible.
Any input would be appreciated...
I went to the track Saturday and only ran 4 times with a best of a 14.4 @ 96. I've been to the track before to spectate but this was my first time actually running. I didn't red light once and kind of powerfully eased out of 1st on take off to avoid wheel hop and wheel spin. I'd like to get to lower 14's or high 13's if possible.
Any input would be appreciated...
I did the throttle body coolant bypass recently and it feels like it gave me a little more HP, but it could all be psychological. Other than that there's not much left that I can think of besides boring out the TB or a port and polish.
Well...it's kinda fast...
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Loovull, KY
^
I was going to say that. Upgrade the ECU and a nice tune, you'll see/feel a nice bump in HP. As far as bolt ons, a free flowing cat or straight pipe (if you're not interested in passing emissions) should net you a few extra ponies.
Other than that, weight reduction is your best bet. If you're really serious about all motor power, look into some custom cams with a more aggressive profile
I was going to say that. Upgrade the ECU and a nice tune, you'll see/feel a nice bump in HP. As far as bolt ons, a free flowing cat or straight pipe (if you're not interested in passing emissions) should net you a few extra ponies.
Other than that, weight reduction is your best bet. If you're really serious about all motor power, look into some custom cams with a more aggressive profile
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Thread Starter
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From: Chicago
Originally Posted by weaselbob74
V-10 Crate Engine
I was thinking about the 3.5L conversion but I don't have the time and know how for that.
I was following the cams that are supposed to be developed possibly so we'll see how that goes.
Where would I get the VAFC from? What kind of things could I adjust w/ that?
Drinking Beer In
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 525
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From: Portland, OR
You've exceeded 90% of the NA HP gains that you are likely to get. VAFC gains will be minimal, as will any exhaust mods (beyond headers).
Go for an engine torque damper to help your hookup, and lighter wheels.
Go for an engine torque damper to help your hookup, and lighter wheels.
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Pacific Northwest, blah.
Originally Posted by CL-Future
I've got XS headers jet hot coated, spacers, Mugen mods, Icebox, UR pulley and NRG dampener. What else is there that will give me noticeable performance gains? I don't have any suspension mods yet, but I do have cross drilled and slotted rotors all the way around. I could stand to replace the clutch since I'm still on the original after 95k miles.
I went to the track Saturday and only ran 4 times with a best of a 14.4 @ 96. I've been to the track before to spectate but this was my first time actually running. I didn't red light once and kind of powerfully eased out of 1st on take off to avoid wheel hop and wheel spin. I'd like to get to lower 14's or high 13's if possible.
Any input would be appreciated...
I went to the track Saturday and only ran 4 times with a best of a 14.4 @ 96. I've been to the track before to spectate but this was my first time actually running. I didn't red light once and kind of powerfully eased out of 1st on take off to avoid wheel hop and wheel spin. I'd like to get to lower 14's or high 13's if possible.
Any input would be appreciated...
Obviously suspension...sways, upper strut bar, LSB, springs, dampers, or coilovers, camber kit is in order...
Thread Starter
Lives in Boost
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Chicago
Originally Posted by hemhaw
You've exceeded 90% of the NA HP gains that you are likely to get. VAFC gains will be minimal, as will any exhaust mods (beyond headers).
Go for an engine torque damper to help your hookup, and lighter wheels.
Go for an engine torque damper to help your hookup, and lighter wheels.
I'll probably work on suspension for now since I haven't explored that world yet and get that as tight as possible. Thanks for the ideas...
Thread Starter
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From: Chicago
Here's one of the races. I was going against my cousin in the Eclipse. He's got a new clutch, 16G turbo and exhaust cutout and didn't really tune anything yet, otherwise he'd be in the 13's. I lost two of them by hundreths of a second. This one by .02 and the other by .08. I was pissed 
but we'll go again soon and I'll have a new clutch by then and hopefully some suspension mods.
Race #3
but we'll go again soon and I'll have a new clutch by then and hopefully some suspension mods.Race #3
Originally Posted by GreenMachine
larger FPR, larger fuel pump, larger fuel injectors
no.... no.... and no
There's absolutely not need to upgrade the fuel system on a NA car.
A "larger" FPR won't do a thing because he'll never exceed vacuum and thanks to OBDII any increase in static pressure will be corrected by short term and long term fuel trim to bring the mixture back to a stoichiometric ratio. An increase or decrease in static fuel pressure will be instantly detected by the ECU as a rich or lean condition and adjust the fuel trim values accordingly so that the amount of fuel flowing through the injectors is the same at 60psi of static pressure or 45psi of static pressure, or whatever other pressure you try to increase to.
A "larger" fuel pump won't do a thing because he'll never require more fuel than what the stock pump provides and a "larger" fuel pump (should say higher flow capacity fuel pump) will only send as much fuel as the FPR senses is required.
Larger injectors won't be of any use because he doesn't have the airflow (and can't achieve it without boost or nitrous) to warrant an increase in flow. Not to mention with the suggested UniChip or VAFC they'll be useless because neither of those two tools have any control over the injectors.
Originally Posted by CL-Future
Here's one of the races. I was going against my cousin in the Eclipse. He's got a new clutch, 16G turbo and exhaust cutout and didn't really tune anything yet, otherwise he'd be in the 13's. I lost two of them by hundreths of a second. This one by .02 and the other by .08. I was pissed but we'll go again soon and I'll have a new clutch by then and hopefully some suspension mods.
Race #3
but we'll go again soon and I'll have a new clutch by then and hopefully some suspension mods.Race #3
What are your 60' times? What tires are you running?
I would skip the expense of opening up the intake manifold.
I'd start with suspension. Parts really aren't that expensive. I'd recommend the H&R Sport springs and Tokico HP blues. That set up should run you around $450 and plant the car nicely. Sways are nice but they won't help you leave the line any quicker. Also, pick up a Neuspeed short shifter.
Thread Starter
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From: Chicago
Originally Posted by mrsteve
What are your 60' times? What tires are you running?
I would skip the expense of opening up the intake manifold.
I'd start with suspension. Parts really aren't that expensive. I'd recommend the H&R Sport springs and Tokico HP blues. That set up should run you around $450 and plant the car nicely. Sways are nice but they won't help you leave the line any quicker. Also, pick up a Neuspeed short shifter.
I would skip the expense of opening up the intake manifold.
I'd start with suspension. Parts really aren't that expensive. I'd recommend the H&R Sport springs and Tokico HP blues. That set up should run you around $450 and plant the car nicely. Sways are nice but they won't help you leave the line any quicker. Also, pick up a Neuspeed short shifter.
I got better after every race. I'm running Yoko EVS 100's with regular tire pressure.
I was going to get the H&R Sports w/ Bilstein shocks. Are those about the same as Tokico's or worse? I'd like it stiff but not too harsh of a ride.
No experience with them but I don't see how you could go wrong.
Oh and you need to cut down on those 60' times!!! You should be consistently in the 2.1s. That right there will drop you 0.4 off your ET
Oh and you need to cut down on those 60' times!!! You should be consistently in the 2.1s. That right there will drop you 0.4 off your ET
Thread Starter
Lives in Boost
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Chicago
Originally Posted by mrsteve
No experience with them but I don't see how you could go wrong.
Oh and you need to cut down on those 60' times!!! You should be consistently in the 2.1s. That right there will drop you 0.4 off your ET
Oh and you need to cut down on those 60' times!!! You should be consistently in the 2.1s. That right there will drop you 0.4 off your ET
Thanks for your input/help.
Originally Posted by mrsteve
What are your 60' times? What tires are you running?
I would skip the expense of opening up the intake manifold.
I'd start with suspension. Parts really aren't that expensive. I'd recommend the H&R Sport springs and Tokico HP blues. That set up should run you around $450 and plant the car nicely. Sways are nice but they won't help you leave the line any quicker. Also, pick up a Neuspeed short shifter.
I would skip the expense of opening up the intake manifold.
I'd start with suspension. Parts really aren't that expensive. I'd recommend the H&R Sport springs and Tokico HP blues. That set up should run you around $450 and plant the car nicely. Sways are nice but they won't help you leave the line any quicker. Also, pick up a Neuspeed short shifter.
Originally Posted by mrsteve
I have the Neuspeed shifter and I like it. Shortens the up and down throw.
Try oemacuraparts.com for the shift cable
Try oemacuraparts.com for the shift cable
Looking for item number 8 just for the CL-S 6spd or a way to repair the black sleeve that prevents the cable from kinking outwards and giving you that very sloppy feeling.
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From: Pacific Northwest, blah.
Originally Posted by mrsteve
no.... no.... and no
There's absolutely not need to upgrade the fuel system on a NA car.
A "larger" FPR won't do a thing because he'll never exceed vacuum and thanks to OBDII any increase in static pressure will be corrected by short term and long term fuel trim to bring the mixture back to a stoichiometric ratio. An increase or decrease in static fuel pressure will be instantly detected by the ECU as a rich or lean condition and adjust the fuel trim values accordingly so that the amount of fuel flowing through the injectors is the same at 60psi of static pressure or 45psi of static pressure, or whatever other pressure you try to increase to.
A "larger" fuel pump won't do a thing because he'll never require more fuel than what the stock pump provides and a "larger" fuel pump (should say higher flow capacity fuel pump) will only send as much fuel as the FPR senses is required.
Larger injectors won't be of any use because he doesn't have the airflow (and can't achieve it without boost or nitrous) to warrant an increase in flow. Not to mention with the suggested UniChip or VAFC they'll be useless because neither of those two tools have any control over the injectors.
There's absolutely not need to upgrade the fuel system on a NA car.
A "larger" FPR won't do a thing because he'll never exceed vacuum and thanks to OBDII any increase in static pressure will be corrected by short term and long term fuel trim to bring the mixture back to a stoichiometric ratio. An increase or decrease in static fuel pressure will be instantly detected by the ECU as a rich or lean condition and adjust the fuel trim values accordingly so that the amount of fuel flowing through the injectors is the same at 60psi of static pressure or 45psi of static pressure, or whatever other pressure you try to increase to.
A "larger" fuel pump won't do a thing because he'll never require more fuel than what the stock pump provides and a "larger" fuel pump (should say higher flow capacity fuel pump) will only send as much fuel as the FPR senses is required.
Larger injectors won't be of any use because he doesn't have the airflow (and can't achieve it without boost or nitrous) to warrant an increase in flow. Not to mention with the suggested UniChip or VAFC they'll be useless because neither of those two tools have any control over the injectors.
I did read CleanCLs thread after I posted
Missing my
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,319
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From: Discovery Bay, CA
Originally Posted by mrsteve
no.... no.... and no
There's absolutely not need to upgrade the fuel system on a NA car.
A "larger" FPR won't do a thing because he'll never exceed vacuum and thanks to OBDII any increase in static pressure will be corrected by short term and long term fuel trim to bring the mixture back to a stoichiometric ratio. An increase or decrease in static fuel pressure will be instantly detected by the ECU as a rich or lean condition and adjust the fuel trim values accordingly so that the amount of fuel flowing through the injectors is the same at 60psi of static pressure or 45psi of static pressure, or whatever other pressure you try to increase to.
A "larger" fuel pump won't do a thing because he'll never require more fuel than what the stock pump provides and a "larger" fuel pump (should say higher flow capacity fuel pump) will only send as much fuel as the FPR senses is required.
Larger injectors won't be of any use because he doesn't have the airflow (and can't achieve it without boost or nitrous) to warrant an increase in flow. Not to mention with the suggested UniChip or VAFC they'll be useless because neither of those two tools have any control over the injectors.
There's absolutely not need to upgrade the fuel system on a NA car.
A "larger" FPR won't do a thing because he'll never exceed vacuum and thanks to OBDII any increase in static pressure will be corrected by short term and long term fuel trim to bring the mixture back to a stoichiometric ratio. An increase or decrease in static fuel pressure will be instantly detected by the ECU as a rich or lean condition and adjust the fuel trim values accordingly so that the amount of fuel flowing through the injectors is the same at 60psi of static pressure or 45psi of static pressure, or whatever other pressure you try to increase to.
A "larger" fuel pump won't do a thing because he'll never require more fuel than what the stock pump provides and a "larger" fuel pump (should say higher flow capacity fuel pump) will only send as much fuel as the FPR senses is required.
Larger injectors won't be of any use because he doesn't have the airflow (and can't achieve it without boost or nitrous) to warrant an increase in flow. Not to mention with the suggested UniChip or VAFC they'll be useless because neither of those two tools have any control over the injectors.
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Pacific Northwest, blah.
Chod teh Wackos page = very useful
(in my sig)
What RPM does VTEC engage?
Type S: 4800 RPM
Type P: 5500 RPM
Return to Contents
Keep in mind those VTEC engagements are for automatics...
(in my sig)
What RPM does VTEC engage?
Type S: 4800 RPM
Type P: 5500 RPM
Return to Contents
Keep in mind those VTEC engagements are for automatics...
wouldn't cooling mods be a consideration. NO power gains.. but it would be better for ur car since u have so many power mods...
i'm not to familiar with the topic, i've read cleancl's thread about it though.
i'm not to familiar with the topic, i've read cleancl's thread about it though.
07 ASM TL
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 137
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From: Algonquin, IL
Originally Posted by GreenMachine
Chod teh Wackos page = very useful
(in my sig)
What RPM does VTEC engage?
Type S: 4800 RPM
Type P: 5500 RPM
Return to Contents
Keep in mind those VTEC engagements are for automatics...
(in my sig)
What RPM does VTEC engage?
Type S: 4800 RPM
Type P: 5500 RPM
Return to Contents
Keep in mind those VTEC engagements are for automatics...
Originally Posted by weaselbob74
I just wasn't sure if it was at the same RPM
It is. Not sure why GreenMachine added that last statement.
Same motor in the automatic and 6-speed. 4800 rpm engages VTEC.
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,125
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From: Pacific Northwest, blah.
Originally Posted by mrsteve
It is. Not sure why GreenMachine added that last statement. Same motor in the automatic and 6-speed. 4800 rpm engages VTEC.
Same motor in the automatic and 6-speed. 4800 rpm engages VTEC.
i was too lazy to
Thread Starter
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From: Chicago
Originally Posted by Louie11
Looks like you went to Byron. that's one hell of a ride to get there.
it was. It was my first time there too, didn't know it was so long of a ride. But it was fun. There was a new 2007 Porsche Turbo running 12's all day. The last run I saw him run was a 12 flat. There were no Acuras there though I just need to get some more runs in, a new clutch and some stiffer suspension and I'll be able to get low 14's or a 13.9.
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