Tunaboy

I just got done hooking up my v-afc II to my ecu and got everything puy back together. I haven't programmed the V-afc yet and I took it for a test drive just to see how my car overall rean. Well everything seemed fine and I gave it a little gas and the throttle started to studder. No matter what the RPM's do NOT go above 4000. If anyone knows what to do so that I can drive it around without problems before I get it dyno tuned?

Hobo

um, just disconnect it until you get to the dyno place?

this thing adjust timing too? i wouldnt mess around with it

Tunaboy

Yea but I can't drive it if it's disconnected

scalbert

If you need to drive it, uninstall it and wire everything back to stock. IMO, this is why you use a PnP harness instead of hard wiring.

It appears that you installed it incorrectly. Now you either trouble shoot it of remove it.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

The VAFC does not adjust timing. The VAFC adjusts fuel every 100rpms and adjusts the VTEC engagement point. V-AFC stands for VTEC- Air/Fuel Controller.

So like Scalbert said either he didn't install the unit properly or somehow the fuel curve has been adjusted and the car is starving for fuel or he is dumping too much fuel in, in which case the car will bog down in the 4k RPM range. In preparation for the VTEC engagement point and the boost in HP Honda has the engines start dumping in some fuel before the actual engagement point, but it usually is a few hundred RPMS before engagement. So in the case of the CL it might be around 4800 RPM if you have kept VTEC engagement at the stock 5200RPM.

Sly Raskal

iTrader: (1)

Pure Adrenaline

iTrader: (2)

You're in safety mode. 90% chance it was a bad wiring job. Go back and double check, then recheck everything.

Start with the throttle pressure sensor wire, and make sure you got the input/output right. From what you've described, I would definitely start with the TPS wire.

Tunaboy

Ok well I'm over the V-AFC II. I rewired EVERYTHING with new butt ends and new connectors and now my tachometer doesn't work. I still redline at 4000 RPM's. I took it to a dyno shop to see if they could tune it and they couldn't do shit. I'm over this piece of shit, it was a mistake to install it myself and now my car is royally fucked. It's not worth the headache, it doesn't even have much of an effect on the car.

scalbert

Regardless of whether or not it would provide any real gains, this is a case of user error. No butt connectors should be used and I suspect the correct leads are not even tapped.

Tunaboy

Well what can I do to fix the ECU wires. Is there any product I can use to make them work properly again.

VeeralS05

how much did you pay for it? what mods do you have? and are the gains substantial or not really?

Tunaboy

Read my thread I never made it past 4000 rpm's. As for my original question, does anybody know how I can troubleshoot the ECU wiring to make my car run properly.

Pure Adrenaline

iTrader: (2)

Are you asking to troubleshoot with the V-AFC II still hooked up or unhooked?

If still hooked up and it's not working right, then you need to recheck the wiring; have someone else go over it, someone who also knows about this shit. A fresh pair of eyes could help a lot -- that's what happened to me. My buddy Chris insisted on doing the wiring, fucked it up, but said that it was done all right.

Then I had Gareth go over it, and 2 of the wires were reversed.

Tunaboy

I've memorized all of the wires which need to be spliced and reconnected. I unhooked the V-AFC II it's out and the wires in which were cut I reconnect with butt ends and connectors. I'm still having the same problems as before. I don't know if a circuit was blown or what, every time I'm working on it, the battery's disconnect.

When your wires were reversed what problems did it cause. As I said my throttle will not go above 4000 and my tachometer has shut off, and the car is idleing extremely rough. Any input/advice is greatly appreciated.

Pure Adrenaline

iTrader: (2)

When the TPS wire was reversed, the car would bog down when I applied gas, and it would jump forward when I let go -- because it was reversed. CEL came on, and the engine would not rev above 3000-4000 RPM. The engine bogged and shut down several times while idling and it was spewing gas out the pipes because the ECU was running safe mode and running rich.

Finally after hooking up the TPS wire and the VTEC wire right, the car went back to normal.

So yeah, at least in my case, messing up the wiring didn't do any permanent damages. As soon as wires were hooked up right, everything started working fine. So I don't think you blew anything in the ECU. I think you might still have a wire hooked up incorrectly.

blader

your a little off. on the CL type S the VTEC engagement point is 4800 RPM. not 5200. the CL-P is 5500.