Well I went and got the belts I needed from Checkers. Went over to my buddies house to use his impact gun and compressor. (Mine siezed).

So I get the tire off and the pulley is right there. Easy no prob job right? WRONG.

His impact gun (Tried two diff ones) could not break it loose. So i'll have to wait and take it to Hondac in Colorado Springs (A Honda and Acura Mech) next week to get it done. $120.00 bucks. + I have to get the brake fluid changed out with the Motul RBF600. Another $75.00.

Anyone have any tricks to getting it off?

I'll be going down to Pueblo Motorsports Park on the 20th to run the 1/4 mile. Hopping to get into the 14's

01 CLS w/ UD pulley only. and I'll ice down the manifold. Remove the rear seat and sub. I might fill the air box with ice under the air filter too. I'd be very happy with a 14.7 ET

 

Charge up that air compressor all the way then hit it again. I've done plenty of timing belts and i know its a real pain getting that crank bolt off. If the impact gun doesnt work, there's a special tool (search Honda crank pully removal tool) that you can buy.

third suggestion (and easiest) (I know some ppl wont agree with me on this but its always worked in the worst cases for me)... Get your ratchet and socket onto the bolt and wedge it against something solid and hit the starter. It should bust the bolt loose on the first hit.

 

Funny, your third idea, a guy here at work just said to do the same thing! I'm not sure if I'll try that or not. I think I might try with a better impact gun. I have some friends that work at 4 Wheel Parts. I'm sure the'll have a impact that will rip right through it.

 

If you do the 3rd option, make sure to pull the ignition fuse first so the car doesn't turn over. Just takes a quick hit on the starter, not even a full crank, to get it off that way.

 

Yup, I was about to bring this up.

Good point.

This is actually the safer way to do it.

You don't want a lot of that vibration that goes along with an impact gun to filter through the shaft. Most likely it doesn't do anything, but just to be safe, the leverage and crank way is the best in my opinion.

 

I actually did the third option and it worked like a charm. Better then an impact gun in my opinion. Just pull the ignition fuse, and your golden. Don't even bother paying the 120, not worth it in my opinion.

 

Well I guess I'll give it a shot! Just to make sure, cause I don't have a manual on teh car.

The crank pulley bolt is not a reverse thread right?

 

do the third option ... it's not gonna hurt ur car, but it duz make a wierd noise, but don't worry nutten breaks

 

Thanks, good catch. I've never removed the fuse though... definitely a good idea lol. It doesn't take a full crank, just hit the starter for like half a second.

 

I have been wrestling with the impact gun issue because I am getting ready to do headers, suspension, pulley etc.

I have an Ingersoll Rand D650 1/2" Cordless Drill/Driver 19.2V which uses the same lithium ion battery as the Ingersoll Rand W360 1/2" Square Drive Cordless Impact driver.

These are it's specs. Do they look strong enough or do I need a compressor & air driver?

http://www.tylertool.com/ingersollrand24.html

Pound for pound, the W360 is the most powerful cordless Impact tool in the world. Patent-pending IQv technology provides maximum performance, durability, and battery life. Compatible with both the 19.2V lithium-ion (BL192) and 19.2V nickel cadmium (N192) batteries. The IQv Series is ideal for mobile service, automotive, tire lane, off-highway, industrial facilities maintenance, and production applications.

Features: Ingersoll Rand W360 1/2" Square Drive Cordless Impact

* 360 ft.-lbs. max reverse torque
* Less than 6.2 lbs. with lithium-ion battery
* 1,650 RPM, 2,200 BPM
* Engineered composite housing with patent pending metal subframe for unbreakable strength
* All metal hammercase and housing ring for added durability

Specifications: Ingersoll Rand W360 1/2" Square Drive Cordless Impact

* Max Torque Reverse -- 360 ft-lbs (488.1Nm)
* Speed -- 0-1,650 BPM -- 0-2,200
* Length -- 8.9 in. (227mm)
* Sound dBA -- 90
* Vibration -- 5.6 m/s2
* Voltage -- 19.2
* Usable Torque Range -- 25-280 ft-lbs (33.9-379.6Nm)
* Tool Weight -- 4.8 lbs (2.2kg)
* Weight w/ Li-ion -- 6.2 lbs (2.8kg)
* Weight w/ Ni-Cd -- 6.7 lbs (3.1kg)

 

I very much doubt that that will work.

 

I've never had much luck with cordless impact drivers.... Get a good air compressor and a good impact gun. Trust me, an air compressor is one of the best garage investments you can make.

Knight you got that pulley off yet?

 

I have one at home in L.A. I am in a rental here and don't want to buy another. I guess I will either pay to have it done or wait until I go back to L.A. next month.

 

Well I'm going to wait till Wed, to try again , then I can do the brakes at the same time. Provided my damn rotors are here by then.

But I'm going to try to put the socket and breaker bar on the driveway and give the starter a slight bymp. Hope it works. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

I have probably installed about 50-60 pulleys on all different types of vehicles, and I would estimate 3/4 of those have been Honda/Acuras and I have only been able to get maybe 3 or 4 off with an impact gun. I have 3/4" pipe running through my shop and a Snap On 1/2" impact gun.

The best way to get the bolt off is to buy the Honda pulley tool and put a breaker bar on the pulley and lock that against the lower suspension arm. Then get a 3 ft breaker bar with a long 19MM socket and push hard and kind of jerk the bar forward with force. It will crack after a few tries and you will hear a pop like a gun shot kind of. That is when it is loose enough to use a gun if you want.

 

Thanks for the info, do you happen to have that tool for sale? If so how much?

 

Snap On sells them. So do a lot of tool vendors. But here are a couple of links:

http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-64879.../dp/B0000TMLWQ

Moroso also makes a tool and Summit will probably be your best bet to get it and at a good price.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

Blip the engine, FTW. Thats what I did. However, the bar dented the shit out of my oil filter I had on the car at the time.

 

Using the right tool is the safest way to go. But I used the third option. I also put a heavy blanket over the breakerbar just in case things started flying. I didn't pull any fuses, I just turned the key to "start", then turned it all the back to "off".

The only problem with the Honda tool is you can't use it to install the UR pulley.

 

if some one is doing option 3 in the future, can u pls post a pic of where to wedge the breaker bar. im completely confused and have no idea what any of you are talking about.

 

wedge it wherever you want.. there's lots of suspension pieces or if you've used a cheater, on the ground