Keep me informed w/ this as much as the grilles...thanks again Smitty!!

 

Read all the posts, this is an awesome project Smitty, thanks for looking out for "more power" for us.
I really like idea of the automatic opening @ a certain RPM. can't wait to see the finished tested product.

 

Smitty.

I've had a lot of similar ideas myself. Some not to practical but interesting none-the-less. I'd like to talk to you about some of these ideas since I will not be doing anything with them - and apparently you're a go-getter!

 

Just one little question here ,what are you going to do with the secondary O2 sensor? Since the cat will go missing here the O2 sensor will report a fault code for ineffient catalyst .Is there going to be something that will fool the O2 sensor into thinking all is well??

Jens

 

You mean something like this:

http://www.mdpp.bigstep.com/generic.html?pid=48



"The O2 SIM allows you to eliminate the 'SERVICE ENGINE SOON' light to stay off if you have a custom exhaust system. This is a plug in device which eliminates the need for a rear oxygen sensor."

 

revert to PAGE 2 please

 

These have not yet been tested. I decided I am not going to eliminate the cat so I won't be using this. If someone wants to test it, I'll send it to you. When it works, send me $50, and keep it.

 

I don't think anyone makes one for our cars yet, but I could be wrong. We have a fourth wire for the heater circuit on the sensor. I tried different resistors to simulate the heater circuit without success, but I think I was doing it wrong. I'm pretty sure it can be done easily.

 

What Eric was showing is a four wire sensor simulator unit but with the cycling electronics built into the epoxied case.

 

Front O2 sensor car harness.

Sensor input= White wire
Sensor Ground= green/yellow wire
Sensor Heater POSTIVE: black/yellow
Sensor Heater NEGATIVE: black/white

Front O2 sensor wires.

Sensor INPUT: white wire
Sensor GROUND: light green
Sensor Heater POSTIVE & GROUND are both BLACK (NO POLARITY)

Rear O2 sensor car harness

sensor INPUT: white/red
Sensor Ground: green/yellow
Sensor Heater POSITIVE: black/yellow
Senosr Heater NEGATIVE: black/white

REAR O2 sensor wires are same as front

 

Does that connector look familiar?

 

I was only going after the heater circuit in the front sensor when I tried because the TE wideband took care of the narrowband o2 signal. My stock front sensor is still connected, wrapped in foil, tied up under the car with the signal wired going to the ecu, connected to the wideband.

 

I have my silence resonator removed. is this gona make a big sound diffrence in my car when i get this?

 

sounds like a hot project. good luck smitty!

 

I'm planning on welding in a new bung and leaving the stock sensor intact. So my narrow band output will be unused.

 

Oh sorry guys my bad i missed that about the simulator .Looks like a cool project thus far it will be interesting to see if there is some power to be had .

Jens

 

That was my origional plan, but my impatience got the best of me,....

again!

 

You mean like this?.... alll the DUMPs will have a BUNG already set-up so all you have to do is screw in the O2 senosr or take an 18mm bolt and plug it up of you wish not to use it.

 

:bigclap: I want one!!!

 

ETA?

 

 

Hey, Smitty.

I've PMed you about something like this a long time ago. I'm not sure if you remember or not.

But I guess you got everything going. That's awesome!!

I have been doing some research myself, and I was about to go with the QuickTime product. But I just saw your pictures, and there's no doubt that I am going with this one.

Where do I sign up??

 

I will be setting things for a GB in the late January--early Feb.


I want to make sure things are PERFECT

 

Any updates on the dump pipe as to are you keeping your original plan of being able to open at 25% 50% 75% and 100%, or are you going to make it open automatically at a certain rpm? Are things moving along nicely?

 

Smitty...whats the update on the group buy for the grilles???Thats all I need to start my entire front end conversion/update. I don't know if I can wait any longer bro I got everything waiting to install except the center grille. Thanks alot man

 

Hey, Smitty. It's late January now.

No rush. Just curious as to where we are.

 

I cut my e-mails once a week for updates and no response on ANYTHING....

I will make a phone call as soon as I can break away from work.

 

!!!!

 

Sign me up for one Smitty!

 

this seems like a great mod at a great price. I cant wait to see the dyno numbers and a sound track of this thing opening and closing. I would love to open this thing up next to a rice burner. Excited just thinking about it.

Good work Smitty.

Jim

 

Wouldn't you need a fast valve that could open in around one or two tenths of a second to make vtec switching of the valve practical. In three seconds we will have already shifted gears. I am more than sure you are aware of this. How do you plan to address this?

jim

 

Jim, we are still putting it thtough R&D for thr switch operations... we are trying to tie it into the CPU so the valve automatically opens when you have the switch flipped to ON....

We are still working on ideas...

I cut the guy 3 e-mails so far and have not heard from him.. his CPU must be down..
I will call tonight and get an update.

Smitty

 

What, you mean like open all the way automatically without having to hold the switch down?

Or open automatically as the RPM's rise? If so, will that still allow the user to manually open/close? Like at a stop light if we want to scare some people...

 

Will you need a high speed valve for it to be open above a specific rpm and closed below? You said the valve you have opens in about 3 seconds.

Another thing I have been thinking about, I read in this thread that if the cat and o2 sensor are in front of the valve you will not need an o2 simm. However, it seems it is not possible to do this. In saying so, you have placed a BUNG on the pipe for the o2 sensor in a position that seems to be after the valve. Why no just can the BUNG and expect to use and o2 simm since when the valve is open the exhaust gasses will not be passing the o2 sensor, especially since you will not have a cat in front of the o2 sensor. i.e. throwing codes. I don’t know exactly what I am talking about but I think you will understand.

Jim

 

I think Smitty put the bung in that spot because that's where the O2 sensor was positioned, if the catalytic converter were there.

If you're not going to use the O2 sensor (which you really shouldn't and get an o2 simulator), you can just plug the hole with a screw.

Did I understand you right?? :o


By the way, do we have TWO O2 sensors down there? I took apart my friend's '97 GS-R a couple of weeks ago, and he had two O2 sensors. One before the cat and the other directly in the cat. What a pain in the ass, I tell ya.

 

You got it right Pure Adrenaline. I am still curious about the need fro a high speed valve. Also, I think we have an o2 sensor on the bottom of the header before the cat and one after/on it.

Jim

 

You are correct.

The dump pipe is a direct bolt in replacement for the cat, so you will need an O2 simm for the rear sensor. You may be able to just wrap up the O2 sensor with foil, (it gets hot) and tie it up under the car somewhere.

 

Hopefully you will have controls to adjust the valve openning to adjust the sound. That would be cool...

 

im if someone helps installing it

 

this is the most up-to-date e-mail that I received from the Exhaust guy:



Dave writes:
Sorry for not getting back to you. My wife said someone called but didnt write the number down before she erased it. DUHHHH!! Any way, I will make them. Right now I am in the middle of a HUGE order for Summit Racing. As soon as I get it done I will finish yours up and try to fab up 4 or 5 pipes just incase other guys want them too..
______________________________________________

Hopefull he gets his ass in gear, I never expected it to take this friggen long, but I am sure he never expected SUMMIT racing to come knocking on his door.

Smitty