Who cares about the gains, this thing will be badass sicne you can control how loud it gets.

 

 

Kiss_My_TypeS - I believe headers would be the mod that would benefit the most from these.

chikai - I'm up for the meet.. We should start another thread. I know atleast me, you, smitty, matt and atleast one or two more that would come.

 

Thanks, as you already know, there are always a few +'s & -'s to modifying an automobile. ......but this is why I left the option of a direct bolt on replacement... You can put your CAT back on anytime you wish with 6 BOLTS!!....so this is awesome for the track/strip or some RED light fun..... LOUD PIPES SAVE LIVES....

and an idea just popped into my head this morning... HOPEFULLY I can incorporate that heat shield on the CAT into the DUMP system so it will not be noticed unless your really looking at it....


Remember fellas, this is just the 2nd stage of this project... I will have all the answers to your questions as soon as I get this complete.....I just wanted to give you a taste of what is on it's way!!...

Smitty

 

Smitty let me know if you need any help with anything, I have alot of resources at work..

 

Thanks Scott, I should be A-OKAY on this one but if the need arises I will contact you.

Smitty

 

Thanks for your work, Smitty!

 

smitty,

u think this would benefit my car at all?? i dont know cause i need all the low end i can get being that i got an automatic soo i dont have problem launching on the street but i'd love to get some higher end power keeping the tach pulling hard through 3rd gear...

 

could this be linked to 4800RPM crossover point so it opens automatically???? Be interested to see what kind of power gains can be achieved.

 

Talk about VTEC roar then.

 

why? This just replaces the CAT, are you planning on running a straight dump all the time?

 

The exhaust will still help to vent any excessive gases left over. And still have HP gains.. Like others said it will be pretty loud and I doubt you will run this thing open all the time.

 

According to his original post...
"and not to get too far ahead of myself, we are working on an electronic set-up so when the car hit 5600 RPM the dump will automatically open up..(but that is further down the road)"

This will defintley take some time, this isn't a easy setup..

 

BTW, the VTEC output from the e-Manage could be used to open the valve so it could be set at whatever RPM desired....

 

 

If I understand this design correctly, that disc on the B-Fly valve is the only thing holding back the exhaust when you are running in normal “quiet mode” right?
If it is, it doesn’t look to be too good of a seal on the disk.
That could mean exhaust fumes going up into the cabin during slow city driving.
And is that valve actuator up to the task of handling the high-temps of the exhaust?

Not criticizing, just making sure all the bases are covered here.

Shawn S

 

eww.. I love it when a plan comes together....


For you N/A guys... I was told by the exhaust experts I spoke with that a dump system should be used before the CAT,
(BUT THERE IS NO ROOM for it before the CAT) if you got over 350 HP... if you do not, they recommend you put it after the CAT... this is due to Backpressure (which I thought was ONLY neccessary in DESIEL engines) and low end Torque.... This is where I stuck my foot in the door... If I can get the dump to start to open up at a certain RPM (4300), then you will not be losing all of that low end torque... BUT, the CAT which is now being replaced with this dump makes you end up losing some low end Torque.....not all of it unless the DUMP is WIDE open before you pull off the line.

Sorry if that is confusing.. read it a few times over...
For F/I, the more/faster you push it in, the quicker you want it out.. and the rate we are going with things around here, we are soon to be pushing more air fuel into the cars.

I wanted to do this dump system for the F/I guys since we are all having trouble getting off the line, so losing some low end doesn't hurt us... and if I can make those REVS jump Faster then I accomplished what I set out to do.

 

I would also install a three way switch. One position for Off completely, no reason for it opening in traffic. One position for Automatic opening with the output from the e-Manage, etc. And the last position for Open; self explanatory.

 

just a question about the auto open idea, Smitty you said that it would take 3 seconds to go from closed to open, is that really fast enough, because by the time you hit 4800 or 5400 RPMs in 1st, the valve wouldn't be open till you were at 50 or 60 MPH, right?

 

From my understand Shawn, he has not had one fail since he started designing them 8 yrs ago... Some of his Clientel use the dumps and Actuators right off the Headers, so heat is not an issue... they don't leak.... the torrington ball bearings in the actuator have something like a 3yr warranty... Unless your really abusing the actuator by pressing the button for more than what your suppose to, then it should not fail... Dave claims 3 seconds for the actuator to completely open or close the valve.
...Since Exhaust gases are so lazy, they will create a small amount of back presure when the valve is completely closed but will move right through to the rear to exit the mufflers... I am not sure how many PSI is pushing on the flapper valve but the guy makes them for cars that have well over 1000 Horsepower....

 

I am sure we will find the best RPM that it should open... I was just stating an example.. just right now it is on the back burner.

 

good idea, but I will leave the wiring up to you and Brad... I hate electrical stuff... when they are ready i will ship one to you and Brad and you guys can tweek it and take it to the next level if you wish...

 

so this would completely replace the cat? you are saying i can finally have complete exhaust? yay! and its going to fit with the comptech b-pipe and headers? tell me where to pay!!!!!!!!

 

Another possibility would be to shorten up the b-pipe the length of the cat and add the cat back in the exhast system behind the cut-out. Extend the o2 sensor wire harness and eliminate the need for the o2 simm, and would allow you to stay emisions friendly, keep a quiet or stock exhaust, until you want to open it up. Keep in mind though, altering the stock location of the cat is against the federal emissions laws, and could be found with a visual inspection. I suppose if you swaped the dump and the cat around for inspections that would be ok.

 

thought about relocating the CAT many time Brad, but then you have to relocate HANGERS & heat shields for the CAT since they are pretty heavy.... this way this a Direct bolt on... sure your taking your chances... but HONESTLY tell me, WHEN PULLED OVER by the long arm of the law, did THEY EVER crawl under your 30K car and look for your CAT converter?

 

I think its time to "sticky" this puppy.

 

I didn't mean visual from getting pulled over, I just didn't want anyone to think by relocating the cat they would pass a visual when they go in for their inspection. I have to get under the car to fix an exhaust leak, so I'll take a look at the sheilds and hangers.

The Si has been relieved of it's cat, and every time the boy pulls in the garage, and comes in the house, the :-* says "that shlt stinks,.. fix it will ya." I will put the dump on, but I want to keep the cat and stock exhaust, so I will work on that option, keeping the dump in front of the cat, as you said.

 

I thought very heavily about what your thinking about Brad, but we are very limited on appropriate space...

The Cat converter does not have any hangers on per say, but the body of the car is shielded from the excessive heat that is produced by it...

As you can see in the above pic, there is a bend after the CAT, the only place I can think of putting the CAT is this long straight area, but it pretty far back...

Honestly, I can clearly seeing a State inspection getting failed if your planning on relocating it to the rear.... So I took the option of a direct bolt ON and OFF for when inspection time rolls around for your fellas.

 

 

Looking at the shop manual diagram, it would have to go between the cat and the small resonator, before the bend in the pipe and the third muffler. I would only be moving it back the length of the cat, even if the small resonator had to go. You really can't see the area from the picture, but that's a clean looking b-pipe.

 

I would love to hear this thing in action.

Can I be of any assitance?

 

It will never fit.. not enough room...unless you remove the small resonator on your TL.... the CL does not have the small Resonator

 

Why not check this site out also?

http://www.quicktimeperformance.com/qtec_main.htm

And remember to check those vids. Found from some Ls1 sites

 

Very good find..!!!! The WRX sounds sweet

 

WTF......is that my car? Anyhow, nice work bro. Can't wait to see a VID and a dyno chart.

 

Yeah, it is your car.. it is called RESEARCH, and you were part of it.. thanks for the participation on your behalf...:P

 

I reasearched this guy for about 3 weeks.... there is a list of inferior parts used.... I spoke with him on the phone too... not a very good conversation.... He explained to me that one of his customers had an exhaust leak from the valve... his respond "Grease it".. ..... besides his shit is NOT stainless and you have to manually weld it in.... and "Gears Made from High Temp Steel for Long Life".... THEY RUST and lock up..

Torrington ball bearings is the way to go... no doubt.. do as you wish, I am not trying to sell you on anything... but I am just trying to give you a heads up on those gimp dumps.

 

I want a direct bolt on so it can be easily taken on and off and also I want high quality material that I won't have to worry about... I work in Quality Control so I can tell you that you def want to stick with Quality product..

I'm in as soon as your guy starts building more of them Smitty..!

Thanks for your efforts Smittty....!

 

No problem hommie! Anytime. If I can do anything to help improve our beautiful machines, even just providing a pic, then I am more then happy to do so. Talk to you later bro.

 

Looking good... Got the flanges on the dump today.. bolted it up and things look good....

i am sending the DUMP back so the JIG can be made so he can produce them for you guys....

Being it is the HOLIDAYS, I am sure we will see the finished product mid January or so....and I will have final pics, prices and step-by-step instructions.



Smitty