K so last week I had the check engine light come on. Got car scanned and it said evap leak. Code p1457 I believe. I popped my hood and looked over everything and saw the coupler that bolts to the vsa throttle body and slides on to the main throttle body was shearing apart... On both ends!

I had noticed a slight bog in power every now and then on the highway as well and sure enough this is starting to make sense..


So I duct taped the coupler up to help it from being a vaccume leak and so far no check engine light now.. It's been 4 days so it definitely fixed the CEL. So somehow it was making that code come up which boggles my mind to be quite honest cause I don't see how they relate to one another.

Moreover... That piece of polyurethane costs 130$!!! Most expensive POS I have had to buy for my car. And to top it off I gotta wait a month to get the part in..


Has anyone had this issue?

Wtf. Lol

 

#10 in this diagram? I had the same thing happen to me about 2 years ago. Mine happened because the mount from the AEM intake had broken off, so the intake had been pulling on the rubber piece you're referring to. If you've got an aftermarket intake, check yours.

If you can cancel your order, I'd suggest scouring your local salvage yards or check car-part.com (got mine for $15 along with some other parts). acuraoemparts.com (link below) has it for $73. And DCHAutomotive for $68. Or, if you're lucky, maybe you can find someone who did a 6-speed conversion and has theirs sitting around.

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

http://www.dchautomotiveparts.com/oe.../16810-pge-a00

 

I don't want some old ass rubber on my car cause it will just happen again.

I have an injen cai and the mount does not line up when u have a p2r throttle body spacer.

But there is a mount labeled A in the diagram. under the vsa throttle body which takes off all that stress from the intake so that still should not be a the root cause of the situation.


Buy cheap buy twice they say... And I don't wanna fix something just to have it potentially happen again.

I am more baffled about how my CEL code came up which seems to haven no correlation yet it did in fact keep the code from coming back when I duct taped it. So something is weird Bout all this.

That rubber coupler thingy.. Part 10 just gets shittier with Age cause its loses its flexibility.

I would have gone to a scrap yard already if I wanted to just fi. It cheap... But my car is mint mechanically so I don't wanna be mean to her by throwing on an inferior part..

I don't mind how overpriced the part is as long as itis brand new and I can get Nother ten years out of it I will be more than a happy camper.

But how the hell did it trigger a p1457 code? That makes no sense. I cannot see how they are at all interlinked together. I hope someone can enlighten me on that aspect.

Thanks

 

It most likely threw the evap code because there is a vacuum hose that is run from the evap to an intake/vacuum source. I'm almost positive that leak you had in the coupler was in turn not providing the evap system with the necessary vacuum, thus triggering the code.

 

Finally a plausible answer. Thanks man....


Good thing I found that then, I could have replaced a bunch of needless crap otherwise And still not fixed the issue.

 

Glad to be of help, not many left here lol

 

I know man tell me about it. Not many long timers around anymore. Thank god I got on when I did. I learnt so much.. One of the main reasons I never wanna get rid of this car.

Oh and to. Disgruntlednut I live in Canada. And I got acura to order it in without me paying for it. It's on back order so it probably the same everywhere cause they have to import it from the states as I would. I don't think it would be much cheaper if at all. And I have the ability to get it and make sure it's not damaged or anything before paying for it. Which I really like.

 

well i replaced the coupler 3 weeks ago or so and the CEL just came back on a few hrs ago. I am going to get it scanned in an hr. but i can almost guarantee its still going to be the same p1457...

i got the manual for the car but it's got sooooo many steps to test all the friking components....

is their a quicker solution?

 

k fak it i just ordered the parts online... both together will total just over one hr labor at the stealership so i will just do it myself and b done with it...

 

So what exactly did you order?

 

vapor canister shut off valve and evap canister purge solenoid valve.

totaling 120$ to my door.... which is what one of the parts cost at the local DLR... so the way i see it it's a no brainer. plus acura charges 100/hr for labor so i would be in for 350 or so if i got them to replace those 2 things... hopefully this fixes the problem...

i will get the parts in a week or 2... then after they are on i will have to wait a month at least to make sure it's solved the issue

 

k so those 2 valves seemed to have not remidied the situation.. however they looked pretty beat up when i removed them so i am not too displeased with the result because i am sure they would have failed in a year tor two.... so i bought the purge valve solenoid... Mine was ticking away but who knows maybe its working intermitently.... and lastly i purchased the 2 way valve off ebay for 60$ to my door....

according to the acura bible... i willl now have replaced everything that could have caused that p1457...

and its nice to know the car will be running 100% again and will also get better emissions.

 

Okay sorry to possibly hijack this thread, but a couple months ago I got the P1457 error code. It hasn't gone away, and I've been driving with the CEL for that code ever since. Nothing bad has happened so far, and I don't think there's any performance difference. The engine may pull slightly less, but that could be my imagination fooling with me because of the CEL code.

Based on your experience, what should I replace to fix the issue, and do I really need to replace anything at all? My 01 Type S engine is bone stock with 108,000 miles. You mentioned your Purge Solenoid Valve ticking? Was that a tick audible from inside the car, most noticeable at idle especially during the colder days? I've had that ticking for about 4 or 5 years now. Is that something that needs to be replaced? I'm on a budget, and I don't have very much knowhow with regards to doing the work myself, but if it's easy I'm willing to give it a go.

 

If u can hear it ticking it is working.

There are five things it can be.

Purge solenoid under the hood, vent shut valve on the canister under the car, purge valve beside the canister, two way valve, or a leak in the canister itself or the lines.

I have replaced all the electro I'd components. But it appears to be my two way valve that was i the problem the whole time. If that does not work the system leaks internally and then throws. Code.


Look at each sensors... Take them off then apply 12v and see if they actuated, if so you likely need the two way valve or have a leak somewhere.

I hate this stupid cel. I cannot wait to get that valve in the mail.. It's going on that day

 

Got the valve and installed it.

Cel gone


Go figure it's the last thing I replaced lol.....

 

So it was your purge solenoid valve?

 

No I replaced the two way valve..

And then today I bought the canister just to make sure this code is dead forever.

 

Ok, thanks. When it warms up I'll try and check the purge solenoid, I'll have to take it to a shop to check the other ones.

 

Well I'm an idiot I should have called my buddy at acura..

He says their comp system can figure our if anything electronic needs to be replaced by running internal checks on everything which only they can do with their crazy touch pad diagnostic thingy...

Now I up in the canister last night. This morning the light went off again.

When I put the new canister in I could smell lots of fumes so I am hoping because I broke the seal so to speak that it triggered the cel...


I have an innova 3030f scan tool... And I cleared the code and now I got my fngrs crossed...

I Checked all the lines as well too and none are old or brittle or anything.

I just hope it's over with 500$ on an evap system is more than I wants to spend of sho

 

And it came back on again!

So it's gotta be a friggin leak in a line somewhere.

Started by replacing the line between the purge valve solenoid and the fire wall. It has a test port in it which can potentially leak. So I removed all that and put a new vac line in their...

I am out of hope tho. And my efforts are exhausted