Should I have the pulleys and headers installed at the same time?

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Old 04-18-2001 | 12:39 PM
  #1  
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Should I have the pulleys and headers installed at the same time?

Both, my headers and pulleys are on there way and according to UPS they will be here Monday. I was wondering if it would be worth it to install them at different times to see the difference in gains. I also was thinking about getting a dyno at the same time. Maybe I should just have them dyno before the pulleys and after the pulleys.

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2001 Acura 3.2 CL Type-S
Comptech Springs
Comptech Exhaust
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Old 04-18-2001 | 12:41 PM
  #2  
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Webtoker what is the Apexi V-AFC thingy that you got? What does it do?

------------------
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Old 04-18-2001 | 12:43 PM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Arik:
Webtoker what is the Apexi V-AFC thingy that you got? What does it do?

</font>

It looks cool an thats about it. You only get 2 - 4 hp depending on your mods.

Old 04-18-2001 | 12:56 PM
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webtoker just put them in at the same time it will probably be cheaper you will probably feel almost nuthing with the pulleys

------------------
2001 cl type s,custom voltage blue paint job, comptech headers, 18 inch ssr agle strusse rims(painted voltage blue with chrome lip), greddy evo exhaust, cross drilled rotors, pioneer avx 7000 tv, playstation2, iceman cold air intake(custom)nos fuel pressure regulator, piaa ion yellow fog lights, slammed on nex suspension (level ten torque converter and b&m tranny cooler)3.5 litre upgrade on april 16!(dommed topped pistons, mdx crankshaft, rods , bearings, heads ported and polished, vtec timing

my old car www.hondatech.org/99acv6ic.html
my cl http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...064&Sequence=0
Old 04-18-2001 | 01:39 PM
  #5  
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I agree with Mchtypes. It might be cheaper because you might be able to get a better installing deal done.

------------------
2001 CL-S Satin Silver/Ebnoy
Spoiler, moonroof visor, 20% Tint,
PIAA 19173/19170
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Just order: AEM CAI/Denso Iridium Spark Plugs
On its way: Comptech Sway Bar/Brake Line/WS Apexi Coilover
Old 04-18-2001 | 03:04 PM
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I would get them installed separately..

I am going to do a dyno between each of my mods so that I know how much hp gain i get off of each mod.

------------------
01' CL Type-S, Navigation, Spoiler
4% tint on the backs and 34% on the fronts
Eibach Pro-Kit Springs (2" Drop)
Old 04-18-2001 | 03:28 PM
  #7  
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How much hp gain do you expect from the pulleys?

------------------
2001 Satin silver CL-S
* no navi, spoiler, mudguards
* wheel locks, full front mask
* fenderwell and door trim
Old 04-18-2001 | 03:29 PM
  #8  
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by e1828:
How much hp gain do you expect from the pulleys?

</font>
usually 2-4 but i've heard upwords of 10

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"the needle got buried at 140.....1,500 RPM later...the tach got buried"
Old 04-18-2001 | 03:29 PM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by e1828:
How much hp gain do you expect from the pulleys?

</font>

Anywhere from 3 - 10, I have no clue.

Old 04-18-2001 | 09:27 PM
  #10  
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3?? Damn and how much are they?

------------------
2001 Acura CL Type-S
Black - Ebony Interior - Spoiler - 20% Tint - Cleared Headlights

2000 Mercedes Benz E320
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Old 04-18-2001 | 09:41 PM
  #11  
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i have heard vicious rumors that the pullies will make your car stall out when your stopped. the rpms r running so low it jsut dies? then i have heard that the pulleyes are the greated mod ever(from a VW driver)

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Nick
01' Cl-S Silver/ Black W/ Navi and Spoiler
V-1 Radar Hard Wired, Limo Tint all around
Comptech Headers, Sways, and AEM CAI
I've got one of the CLS's from the fast batch.
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Old 04-18-2001 | 09:44 PM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Type S Smokes All:
i have heard vicious rumors that the pullies will make your car stall out when your stopped. the rpms r running so low it jsut dies?</font>
Yeah, let us know if this is a problem when you install the cams. I had heard it gets even worse if you have a system.

------------------
2001 Acura 3.2 CL Type S
Satin Silver Metallic/Ebony

Stock, for now at least.
Old 04-19-2001 | 01:27 AM
  #13  
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by WebToker:
Both, my headers and pulleys are on there way and according to UPS they will be here Monday. I was wondering if it would be worth it to install them at different times to see the difference in gains. I also was thinking about getting a dyno at the same time. Maybe I should just have them dyno before the pulleys and after the pulleys.

</font>
Web,
Just my .02$, but don't you think the pulleys will have any adverse affects on the alternator and it's ability to charge the battery?? Won't this be detrimental especially since you have the NAV and all that audio stuff??

Just curious.



------------------
01'
Black/Ebony CLS
Old 04-19-2001 | 05:20 AM
  #14  
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by JSuppi:
Web,
Just my .02$, but don't you think the pulleys will have any adverse affects on the alternator and it's ability to charge the battery?? Won't this be detrimental especially since you have the NAV and all that audio stuff??

Just curious.

</font>

I guess we will see soon enough. I know laser is running with the Accord pulleys on his CL and has no problems.
Old 04-19-2001 | 12:30 PM
  #15  
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i had aem pulleys in my old car(pic below)i had to change the battery twice and at idle all my light would flicker and if i wouldnt rev the engine the car would die, thats why im not gonna buy them

------------------
2001 cl type s,custom voltage blue paint job, comptech headers, 18 inch ssr agle strusse rims(painted voltage blue with chrome lip), greddy evo exhaust, cross drilled rotors, pioneer avx 7000 tv, playstation2, iceman cold air intake(custom)nos fuel pressure regulator, piaa ion yellow fog lights, slammed on nex suspension (level ten torque converter and b&m tranny cooler)3.5 litre upgrade on april 16!(dommed topped pistons, mdx crankshaft, rods , bearings, heads ported and polished, vtec timing

my old car www.hondatech.org/99acv6ic.html
my cl http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...064&Sequence=0
Old 04-19-2001 | 03:20 PM
  #16  
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I guess we will see. I know other people with the CL have the Accord pulleys and there car runs fine. If not I will just return them for being faulty.

Old 04-19-2001 | 06:40 PM
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I've been holding off on posting but I think enough time has gone by.

I've had the TL/Accord pulleys on for 3 weeks now and over 1200 miles. There is no sign of problems so far and I don't expect them. It has been tested under some hard conditions and all is well. But I do have a theory on why people have had problems, which I will touch on.

Last weekend after having been gone most of the week in the CL-S from Atlanta to Charlotte and then on to Nashville I felt that enough time had passed for them to be 'worn' in a bit. So I brought home a Tektronix DMM/Scope to test the electrical system under load. To simulate the hardest conditions I would encounter on the road for the electrical system I ran the car at idle with the headlights on, the AC on full and the stereo at a medium to high level (I do have a 200W amps installed too). I ran it like this for 45 minutes:

The voltage after starting and warmed but prior to turning everything on was at 13.8VDC. When I turned everything on it dropped to 13.6VDC where it hovered at occasionally bouncing up to 13.7VDC. When I started driving it went to about 13.9 to 14.2 VDC. The 200mv drop is expected even on a stock vehicle. So IMO, it is not draining the battery. You would need a drop below 12VDC to start affecting it and at no point was it dropping too low.

During the installation I think I found out why some people might of had problems. It would be the installation its self. The Power Steering pulley is a breeze and is splined to assure it won't slip. However the Alternator pulley has no splines or key, it is just a compression mount.

This is where the problem could come in; if it were not tightened properly it could slip. If this were the case you could encounter a large drop in supply current. I could even turn the stock pulley on the shaft with simple hand tools.

I initially tried to remove the stock pulley on the car but that ended up being a waste of time. So I pulled the alternator and did it the right way. I used an impact gun to remove the stock retaining nut and pulley and then slipped on the AEM pulley. Here lies the potential problem. The center section on the AEM pulley is much thicker than the stock piece. It extend out so far that there would have been no way to retain the shaft when tightening (there is a 10mm hex on the end of the shaft to hold it). So you couldn't be assured that it was tight enough through conventional wrenching.

But through the use of the impact gun I feel that it seated vary well. Enough that I could not get it to slip the way I could with the stock pulley.

So in the end everything worked out fine. I'll still keep and eye on it for a while and keep checking the voltage output. But I feel that there won't be a problem and that the installation was the culprit in others situations.
Old 04-20-2001 | 02:45 AM
  #18  
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hey toker--i wanna ride!!

btw, did you get the v-afc setup yet? i wanna know if having the v-tec come online sooner--it just doesn't make sense to me that this doesn't do much for additional speed...

------------------
you are not your fukking signature.

[This message has been edited by silverESS (edited 04-20-2001).]
Old 04-20-2001 | 05:08 AM
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scalbert, thanks for another factual post

------------------
2001 acura cl type-s
comming soon
2000 accord v6 sedan
1997 4runner
1992 camaro
1993 volvo 850
"Tell me kid, have you ever danced with the devil in the pale moon light"
Old 04-20-2001 | 01:27 PM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by scalbert:
I've been holding off on posting but I think enough time has gone by.

I've had the TL/Accord pulleys on for 3 weeks now and over 1200 miles. There is no sign of problems so far and I don't expect them. It has been tested under some hard conditions and all is well. But I do have a theory on why people have had problems, which I will touch on.

Last weekend after having been gone most of the week in the CL-S from Atlanta to Charlotte and then on to Nashville I felt that enough time had passed for them to be 'worn' in a bit. So I brought home a Tektronix DMM/Scope to test the electrical system under load. To simulate the hardest conditions I would encounter on the road for the electrical system I ran the car at idle with the headlights on, the AC on full and the stereo at a medium to high level (I do have a 200W amps installed too). I ran it like this for 45 minutes:

The voltage after starting and warmed but prior to turning everything on was at 13.8VDC. When I turned everything on it dropped to 13.6VDC where it hovered at occasionally bouncing up to 13.7VDC. When I started driving it went to about 13.9 to 14.2 VDC. The 200mv drop is expected even on a stock vehicle. So IMO, it is not draining the battery. You would need a drop below 12VDC to start affecting it and at no point was it dropping too low.

During the installation I think I found out why some people might of had problems. It would be the installation its self. The Power Steering pulley is a breeze and is splined to assure it won't slip. However the Alternator pulley has no splines or key, it is just a compression mount.

This is where the problem could come in; if it were not tightened properly it could slip. If this were the case you could encounter a large drop in supply current. I could even turn the stock pulley on the shaft with simple hand tools.

I initially tried to remove the stock pulley on the car but that ended up being a waste of time. So I pulled the alternator and did it the right way. I used an impact gun to remove the stock retaining nut and pulley and then slipped on the AEM pulley. Here lies the potential problem. The center section on the AEM pulley is much thicker than the stock piece. It extend out so far that there would have been no way to retain the shaft when tightening (there is a 10mm hex on the end of the shaft to hold it). So you couldn't be assured that it was tight enough through conventional wrenching.

But through the use of the impact gun I feel that it seated vary well. Enough that I could not get it to slip the way I could with the stock pulley.

So in the end everything worked out fine. I'll still keep and eye on it for a while and keep checking the voltage output. But I feel that there won't be a problem and that the installation was the culprit in others situations.
</font>

Hey scalbert, did you make a CAI out of a TL intake before the type s CAI came out?
Old 04-20-2001 | 03:11 PM
  #21  
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by WebToker:

Hey scalbert, did you make a CAI out of a TL intake before the type s CAI came out?
</font>
Yep, last August I purchased the TL intake and chopped 9" off of the end towards the TB. I've had it in ever since and has worked out well.

Old 04-20-2001 | 03:38 PM
  #22  
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by scalbert:
Yep, last August I purchased the TL intake and chopped 9" off of the end towards the TB. I've had it in ever since and has worked out well.

</font>
I did the same with the Accord intake. I used your design Of course this was also when there was no TypeS intake.

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