Possible New Mod??
EGR fix.
http://powerrevextras.com/catalog/pr...34b0652598d61b
Ill be adding that to my order from P2R.
http://powerrevextras.com/catalog/pr...34b0652598d61b
Ill be adding that to my order from P2R.
I hope to do it tomorrow.
The rim disaster took most of my spare time today.
Not sure, I always thought you might be able to fool it with the proper electrical experience by using resistors of sorts. But I'm not sure.
Why are you bothering with the EGR?
Why are you bothering with the EGR?
70% there.
Two things, remove the bolt that ties the cable for the butterfly before removing the manifold. I had an anxious moment with my long magnetic Snap-On screwdriver getting it out of the intake runner.
Second the Comptech strut bar had to be elevated about 3/4" to get the old out & new on.
Two things, remove the bolt that ties the cable for the butterfly before removing the manifold. I had an anxious moment with my long magnetic Snap-On screwdriver getting it out of the intake runner.
Second the Comptech strut bar had to be elevated about 3/4" to get the old out & new on.
Per Paul on the "Bypass"
Well, not exactly, but damn close enough. As we all know the EGR system robs some power by injesting hot/dirty exhaust gases directly back into the intake. We can't remove the valve without throwing a code and we can't block it without throwing a code. If we block it the ECU throws a "Insufficent Flow" code as well as the OBD emissions monitor will show error since the ECU actually detects the lean out caused by the EGR opening and flowing exhaust back, and this is the key, the ECU does not care weather it is hot exhaust or cold/clean intake air. So I decided to machine out a EGR Bypass Adaptor that allows us to connect either a breather filter or a hose connected back to the breather fitting on the intake. I just came back from a 50+ mile test drive with no codes thrown and for good measure before I left on the drive I reset my ECU and emissions monitors after the drive I checked and the EGR emissions monitor was happy with the bypass, so this will not effect passing emissions, and probably will pass visual if you hook a hose back into the intake.
Very interesting. I may have to try that machined aluminum piece. What thread was that in, and do they have any schematics for it?
I just read the email Sean sent me regarding the EGR. You can run the block off plate, but you will throw a CEL, which Im not willing to do. He said there is a way to fool the ecu, but he is unsure how. The EGR pipe is only about $10.
I just read the email Sean sent me regarding the EGR. You can run the block off plate, but you will throw a CEL, which Im not willing to do. He said there is a way to fool the ecu, but he is unsure how. The EGR pipe is only about $10.
Here is how it was an hour ago, not the final product.
I have high/low idle, (1200/1800) Sean thinks vacuum leak or idle control valve but I had no issues before.
I had to take it apart after the initial install, the gasket did not fully cover the inlet on the adapter, I had to increase the bolt holes and move it over a bit.
I'll report after I get brake cleaner and rule out/in vacuum leak.
I have high/low idle, (1200/1800) Sean thinks vacuum leak or idle control valve but I had no issues before.
I had to take it apart after the initial install, the gasket did not fully cover the inlet on the adapter, I had to increase the bolt holes and move it over a bit.
I'll report after I get brake cleaner and rule out/in vacuum leak.
Thats going to make me paint my valve covers to match. Goddammit. Did you hook up the EGR or is it disconnected right now?
Last edited by civicdrivr; Jun 10, 2009 at 12:36 PM.
Did not touch the EGR, hooked up. I routed the vacuum that went to the cai to the front of the manifold and the back to the sensor that I had plugged off.
Right now there is no crankcase ventilation and it is plugged.
I am out the door to get brake cleaner and some more hose just in case.
Right now there is no crankcase ventilation and it is plugged.
I am out the door to get brake cleaner and some more hose just in case.
Where did you plug in the vacuum for the FPR?
And you are running the car without the EGR pipe inside the manifold?
Yes idle would probably be messed.
And you are running the car without the EGR pipe inside the manifold?
Yes idle would probably be messed.
Last edited by CleanCL; Jun 10, 2009 at 12:47 PM.
First off thank you Civicdrivr and E30 for sharing this with us.
This looks like a great mod. That J37 manifold looks sick!
What do you guys plan on doing with you lower intake runners. http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p...k/DSC00689.jpg
I haven't heard anyone mention these?
From the pics I don't see them with the J37 manifold. So I am assuming that our stock lower runners bolt up, correct?
I know that some people have p&p them, and P2R also sells them like that. There was a recent thread about there actual performance and possible dyno results. Here: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=lower+runners
Do you think these could actually make some more power matched with this new manifold? Do either of you guys plan on adding these to your build?
This looks like a great mod. That J37 manifold looks sick!
What do you guys plan on doing with you lower intake runners. http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p...k/DSC00689.jpg
I haven't heard anyone mention these?
From the pics I don't see them with the J37 manifold. So I am assuming that our stock lower runners bolt up, correct?
I know that some people have p&p them, and P2R also sells them like that. There was a recent thread about there actual performance and possible dyno results. Here: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=lower+runners
Do you think these could actually make some more power matched with this new manifold? Do either of you guys plan on adding these to your build?
Where I sit now is it is done, no vacuum leaks no egr cel but I do have 505 idle control system malfunction.
Sean said I need to unstick my idle control and I really want to (as well as put the repaired rim back on) but it is 106 out and I am tired.
Here is how it looks right now. Still need to do the oil catch can.
I sprayed brake cleaner looking for a vacuum leak & it turned my boot brown
Sean said I need to unstick my idle control and I really want to (as well as put the repaired rim back on) but it is 106 out and I am tired.
Here is how it looks right now. Still need to do the oil catch can.
I sprayed brake cleaner looking for a vacuum leak & it turned my boot brown
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 5
From: Merritt Island FL
Was Charlie you sheapard? Sorry to hear about it. I have 7 year old from Germany. Don't know what I would do without him.
Total intake so far is 300.00 P2R CAI, 200.00 (250.00 minus core refund)71mm bored TB from P2R, 350.00 intake & cover from Acura, 80.00 adapter & thermal gasket for 09, 140.00 for IM thermal and spacer for CLS, no longer using one thermal & the spacer = 1070.00.
This does not include headers, exhaust etc.
Yes Charlie was my baby. Thanks
Butt dyno!
This does not include headers, exhaust etc.
Yes Charlie was my baby. Thanks
Butt dyno!
Last edited by e30cabrio; Jun 10, 2009 at 06:39 PM.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 5
From: Merritt Island FL
Total intake so far is 300.00 P2R CAI, 200.00 (250.00 minus core refund)71mm bored TB from P2R, 350.00 intake & cover from Acura, 80.00 adapter & thermal gasket for 09, 140.00 for IM thermal and spacer for CLS, no longer using one thermal & the spacer = 1070.00.
This does not include headers, exhaust etc.
Yes Charlie was my baby. Thanks
Butt dyno!
This does not include headers, exhaust etc.
Yes Charlie was my baby. Thanks
Butt dyno!
Oh ok, so under $500.00 for the 09 intake mod. I might look into after my 4 months at FLETC. I'll have a little more time then. Still have not put my headers or springs on. Just sitting in the garage.
Or Might even buy something new????????????? Who the hell knows.I know what ya mean about the butt dyno. I just moved from 6500 ft elevation to 300 or so and WOW what a diff in power. Now I know why there is a traction control on the CLS.
Last edited by CH46ESeaKnight; Jun 10, 2009 at 06:47 PM.
Just the 098 mod is (if your dealer goes for this) 350 from Acura & 80.00 from P2R, if no bored TB. Bored TB is 250.00 more ans they give 50,00 back when you send your TB so they can bore it & sell it.
Back to my idle issue, It came down to 95 so I r&rd the TB cleaned the iacv still doing it BUT not in drive in drive it is perfect & runs perfect WTF???
No code anymore either.
GRRRRRRRRRR
Going to install the fixed wheel & get the spare off.
Back to my idle issue, It came down to 95 so I r&rd the TB cleaned the iacv still doing it BUT not in drive in drive it is perfect & runs perfect WTF???
No code anymore either.
GRRRRRRRRRR
Going to install the fixed wheel & get the spare off.
Damn I must be tired, I quoted myself & fixed all the mistakes.
idle relearn procedure- disconnect battery or reset ECU with scanner or take fuse 18 (i think) out. Then start the engine and run at 3K untill the fan kicks on. Once fan is on, let it idle. Take it out and run 2nd gear at WOT for 5secs. idle relearn DONE
When I get closer to doing the 105k service I will p&p my lower intake runners. For now, no. My manifold should be here Friday or Monday. I'm hoping Friday so I can do the work this weekend. I will have before and after dynos up for those of you that are curious. I will be going tomorrow sometime as long as work allows me to.
It may seem pricey, but if the whp gains are correct then every dollar spent is well worth it.
E30, let me know how it drives.
It may seem pricey, but if the whp gains are correct then every dollar spent is well worth it.
E30, let me know how it drives.
Fundamentally it is done, here is how it sits, can you spot my one of a kind super rare oil catch device?
I still have not put my rim back and I don't want to do the WOT portion of the idle reset on the space saver.
I pulled the fuse last night before I went to sleep and put it back this morning so that portion is done.
Someone asked about the fuel pressure vacuum, assuming it is behind and a bit below the CAI that is running out of the CAI in the hole vacated by the front valve cover crankcase ventilation that is now going into the "device".
I still have not put my rim back and I don't want to do the WOT portion of the idle reset on the space saver.
I pulled the fuse last night before I went to sleep and put it back this morning so that portion is done.
Someone asked about the fuel pressure vacuum, assuming it is behind and a bit below the CAI that is running out of the CAI in the hole vacated by the front valve cover crankcase ventilation that is now going into the "device".