so what are the pros and cons of blocking the egr

 

EGR in non-turbo gasoline engines is for emissions control at light load and idle conditions. It also helps the catalytic converter achieve light-off temperature quicker under cold start conditions.

 

right, so what's good and bad about it? I'm assuming lose a little gas mileage gain a little power?

 

I get the same average mileage now I got before I modded anything. 22-31 depending on city/highway & driving moderately/like a lunatic.

Generally I get about 25 in a mixed drive style/type of road.

 

Gain mileage and power, lose emissions control

 

Won't the check engine light come on if you block the egr

 

yes it will

 

the CEL

There are no performance gains at all from blocking off the EGR

may reduce gas mileage....minimally

now its just one less thing that can go wrong

 

lose gas mileage, correct, since the egr puts inert gas into the cylinders, so not as much fuel has to be injected to maintained the air fuel ratio, but also will have higher NOx emissions without it, due to the cylinders have to burn more fuel and run hotter due to the increased heat from the additional fuel, that has to be burned

then increased power, HELL NO, it is turned off when you go WOT, so it would not be a diluted air charge, about the only thing i might say you get from getting rid of the egr, would be increased throttle response, from not having to clear the manifold and such but we are talking milliseconds to to clear the manifold though

what the hell are you smoking???

kinda true with loseing emissions control, but again see above

yes and very brightly, once you go through the drive cycle to meet the critia for setting a code for that (unless the valve is removed, which then it should come on right away)

x2

what is minimally by your judgement???, 1-2 MPG less would not surprise me at all, but might actually be more then that though

but yes one less thing to worry about, but what complexity are you adding though, by trying to keep that light off???, and not like it is too high of a upkeep on our cars, clean it out like every 50K miles or so

 

The reason why I am blocking off the EGR is because I think it may solve the erratic idle I have when the 09 Manifold is on.

 

are your sure you don't have a vaccum leak somewhere???

cause if the egr was working properly before it should be working properly still, especially with spotless passages in the manifold

also have you let it do the idle relearn procedure???

 

the EGR ports do not line up properly with our intake runners. I put the stock manifold back on and no problems, so I know it has something to do with the manifold or TB adapter.

no, I did not. Once I know everything is sealed properly I will do that. How exactly do I perform the idle relearn procedure?

 

basically let it warm up fully to operating temp, with everything off (radio, A/C, HVAC system) then let it sit there for 10 minutes just idleing, and don't include the time when the fans turn on either just minus that


and blocking the egr, normally at the valve itself, will not do anything for you then, since you will still have a vacuum leak

and for them lining up, how far are we talking off, cause a little bit off is alright, as long as it can seal fully

 

It took a few days for mine to get normal. I suggest you put it together, make sure you have no vacuum leaks and let it idle, even if it does not immediately normalize drive it like that, allow it to idle as long as possible every time you park until it learns the new hardware.

I did not remove the egr & I did wire up the butterflies.

 

thanks, I'll do this next time.

If I had a vacuum leak would it not happen when I put my stock manifold back on? This is why I am going to be blocking off my EGR.

The reason why I don't think its a vacuum leak is because this only happens when I put on the 09 manifold. Stock manifold everything runs fine.

There are pictures posted somewhere of the gasket from the 09 manifold on the MDX IM spacer to show how much the EGR is off. Im not 100% sure if its sealed, hence the reason why I'm going to block it off.

I did drive it after I had the manifold installed and it continued to have the erratic idle which was fine, but then the RPMs would drop to 200-300 and the engine would struggle to stay on. Then the CEL, VSA and ! came on, turned car off and back on then only the CEL stayed on... trying to find an OBD2 reader so I can see what code its throwing. I don't want to be driving my car around if its going to be dieing out like that on me.

When I was driving, I had it in second and did a slight pull how I normally drive and it wasnt moving at the start and then slightly after it seemed like it opened up and pulled properly. No idea what was going on there.

How did you hook the 2 pin clip to the 5 pin connector on the cover plate? I know there are ways to connect them but I'm not about to put something together and hope it stays together. I tried getting the 5pin clip from acura but they do not sell them by themselves.

Maybe this is all because I never did the idle re learn procedure.

 

What you are describing sounds like a vacuum leak & the ECU not knowing what to do. That it happens with the 09 can mean you are leaving something loose/disconnected when you put in the part not designed for the motor.

I had a small leak at the TB, and there are several vacuum inlets on the 09 not on the 01-03.

As far as the electrical connection, I made a connector using wire & male female connectors. The female going to the solenoid & the male going to the car's harness.

Use the wiring diagram I posted.

How long did you drive it? It took mine DAYS.

 

Had any extra inlets capped and tested each one multiple times.

Only drove it for 5 minutes before it started to shut off.

 

You need to let it get used to the new set up.

The more you change (egr) the more the system needs to learn. Do what you want, I am telling you what worked.

Is there a learning disability among the Canadian young?

 

must be the time of the month for some people

I told you what I have done to eliminate some of the possibilities. I'm trying to give as much information so it will help other understand whats going on.

attacking where I was born... classy

 

hey cmon dude that was uncalled for

 

You have been told repeatedly by numerous people the ECU needs to learn for a period of time yet keep making changes after less time than it takes to boil water.

You are not helping anyone because you do not have a clue nor have you succeeded at this mod. Try what has been successful maybe you will succeed.

You are not the first young Canadian here to act this way so I asked a question.

Your reaction tells me I hit a nerve.

I will not be answering any more questions from you until you try what has been suggested.

Not appreciating when helped or thanking for attempts at help= classless.

I asked a question.

Too thin skinned for the net?

Not my problem.

 

i agree with e30. hes got the 09 manifold on and its working out for him. do what he says then start arguing.

 

I understood the first time someone said that the ECU needs to learn with its new hardware. Never once did I show any indication that I disagreed with you/anyone, nor that I did not understand.

read things through before you post. I'm trying to help you guys understand what I have and havnt done so it can help you guys come to a conclusion.

Take your panties out of a knot bud

and which way might that be?

When I posted in this thread I have done nothing but answer the questions that people have asked me what I've tried and haven't tried.

I never asked you to answer any questions, you posted voluntarily.

 

I agree, I know that he had his put on and was working with no issues. That's why any input he has given I have noted down.

I answered a question of his asking how long did I drive it and got a personal attack for what...

 

You refuse to follow this simple direction.


That is good advice, I suggest you follow it. You cannot help when you have not accomplished an endeavor.



I do not have your panties




Like you know what you are doing when you are clueless.

You responded to the question did you allow time to learn NO, yet you have not done the simple task of just leaving it alone to learn.


You asked people that SUCCEEDED, As one of them I tried to help.

YOU ARE WELCOME

 

I told you several times, Fries told you several times you did not do it.

You answered no you did not do it, I ASKED A QUESTION.

If you see yourself in a general reference that is not my issue.

 

I havnt had time to even TRY it





you still dont understand



I said I knew what I was doing? Don't recall that either

Im learning as people post, and trying to gather information.


do you not understand that I have not attempted to put it on since thursday. So i never said anything about what you said being wrong. I havnt said anything that you or anyone else has told me has been incorrect because I havnt even had time to go to the shop.


you are one of those people, haha k....

Thanks!!!!!

just to make this clear for you since you must have a hard time reading

I have not tried anything anyone has told me yet because I havnt been to the shop since thursday. Everything that has been posted has been greatly appreciated and has been noted down... so the next time I give it to my mechanic to install I can help him out and we can hopefully solve the problem.

 

You will get no help with your attitude.

I am one of 2 people that have done this & have written two DIYs go, find the threads you will get no help from me and I hope the other person ignores you also.

You never said you had not tried since Thursday, you just said you did not let it learn.

There is a possibility your manifold is bad, Civic had a bad one. I hope that is the case seeing as you are a serious piece of work.

 

referring to the time I put it on, hence the past tense. fio

lol, alright thanks man

 

Nice semantics. you win.

Hope you downloaded my pinout. I paid to get it and posted it, you are not the first to act like you are entitled to other peoples efforts, I'll email it going forward when polite people ask for it.

They can thank you for not having it readily available.

 

minus all this lol


and for testing that vacuum leak, put the 09 manifold back on, start it up, you might have to tighten the throttle cable a little much, just so it can stay idleing, then basically take some carb spray and start spraying (you might need 2 cans btw idk) along all the seems and such, and see when the idle smooths out and such, there is your leak

but yeah it almost sounds like you might be missing aport that needs to be plugger or something, cause that leak sounds like it is of decent size, which would be a port or something more then likely

 

yeah, thats how we found the first leak at the TB was with carb spray. Then when we pushed over the thermal gasket it fixed that leak but still no dice.

I dont believe he tried to tighten the throttle cable but we will try that next time.

yeah thats what it seems like

When I would turn the car on it would idle fine. Its only when we touch the throttle it would go back to its erratic idle.

Next time im going to let it idle properly all through the idle relearn procedure and see if that changes any results.

Thanks for staying on topic

 

If it would idle fine then once you touch it it goes erratic, its electronic, not a vacuum leak. Im 90% sure the issue with my idle is EGR related, but its also possible it could be the sensor in the power steering or the A/C circuit (yes, they are all connected to the idle circuit).

When you start the car and it idles fine, turn the steering wheel. Do you have the erratic idle again?

When the idle keeps jumping, pull the intake tube off the throttle body. There is a port on the bottom of it. Plug it with your fingers. Does the idle go back to normal? If it does, something in the circuit is telling it there is increased load so the ECU compensates by opening the IACV a bit. I went through 2 brand new IACVs all with the same issue, so I know its the not the IACV itself, its something else in the circuit. I checked all the wires going to the IACV and the wires at the ECU for the IACV, and they were all within spec.

I took off the sensor part of the IACV, locked the fin that spins inside it in the closed position and plugged the sensor into the harness so the car thinks the IACV is operational. Its ghetto, but it works for now.

The only issues with blocking the IACV is when the A/C is on and youre idling, the revs will dip down alittle bit.

 

Thanks! great information

Ok, Ill try this the next time I put it on.



Ill definatly try blocking it off with my fingers and see if thats the issue. If it is Ill go the same route as you and lock the fin in the IACV. Great idea!

I dont use my A/C anyways, rolling down my windows is my A/C

 

If your IACV is stuck open (likely), clean it out or try a new one and see what happens. It could be a simple fix such as that. Mine wasnt though

 

hey guys im finally got some time off work and gonna get the manifold installed after its been sitting in the garage. but just a few quick questions though

i heard that people got a idling problem after installing it... is this happen to everyone? or only if theres a hose leak

and is it easy to figure out which hoses go where will my mechanic be able to figure it out?

do i need 09 tl manifold bolts to get this manofold bolted in?

and what do i do with the switch on the left side of the top plate (as shown in picture) do i plug anything into it or does it stay disabled? vvvvvvv

 

Yes, you need to plug it in. That controls your IMRC.

There are two more bolts on the TL manifold for the top plate.

I had an idle issue but that turned out to be a crack runner that we didn't notice until two weeks ago.

 

So I just need 2 extra bolts.. I can use my old bolts for the new manifold?

 

Yea.

 

Thanks man.
Do u know what the part number is for those 2