Well... installed both the Mugen T-Stat and Fan Switch (I suppose the fancy packaging for the Mugen T-Stat warrants its ridiculous price!). Anyways... thanks for Scalbert for his pioneering efforts here. It works fine (only need to swap gaskets) and the temp guage sits about 2.5 ticks lower.

 

We should at least get a Mugen key chain with the purchase of the stat. I do agree, the packaging is nice...

 

I would do it if I live in the south... no good for the NE....

Salbert, how is the gas mileage with this mod?


Damm it!...this fill up if I hit 250-275 miles on full tank that is great... In the summer I hit 360-370 miles..

 

what are the advantages again?

sidemarker

 

Just change it out in the winter and fall That's what i'll end up doing. It's not that difficult to install.

 

Honestly, I don't pay a bit of attention to mileage so could not comment. It would be interesting to see someone up north do this to determine the ill affects. My car has only seen upper 20's once so far which did not produce any ill affect.

 

It appears that the ECU pulls back timing and adjusts the A/F ratio enough to lower the power by 5 - 7 HP and the same in torque when the coolant temps go from about 180 to over 200 F.

This stat and fan switch will help keep the coolant at or just below the 180 F mark.

This was shown in a TOV dyno run and supported by my recent runs.

 

Scalbert is dead-on in the purpose for the lower T-Stat/Switch combo.

My thinking is as follows: The factory ECU probably has a pre-set limit as to how much timing it can retard and the degree it can control the A/F ratio. If this wasn't the case we should be able to use NOS or boost right upto the physical (rods/pistons/crank failure) limits of the motor without seeing the effects of detonation or leaning out. What this T-Stat/Switch combo gives us is margin. While using NOS or a forced-induction approach, we give the engine more margin for timing-retard (engine operating temperature will increase while using these power-adders). My motivation in purchasing this is just to give the engine this tad more margin and hope for better operating conditions under boost.

I chatted with Shad Huntley of Comptech Motorsport (he's the technical guru there regarding the S/C's for all their projects). He mentioned that the timing system/knock sense on the CL-S is very effective. He's seen upto 25 degrees of retard just on bad gas! I had quite a few questions to him regarding his S/C approach and why Comptech does not include any timing-retard components with its systems. First off, NONE of their systems boost > 7psi. Also, quote:

"with the addition of the ESM we preset the voltage to put the ECU at the last set of data points before it goes into default. This is the part of the ECU that takes away the most amount of timing and adds the most amount of fuel".

This is a bit confusing to me... because WOT (hence 0psi) should be the same as this condition. Using a one-way valve into the MAP sensor should do the same thing!?!

They also rely on the IAT sensor to retard timing - which I think is a fallacy as this is bogus for an intercooled system.

Supposedly their cars have made 350hp at the wheels with "race-gas and more timing".

Since there is no 'direct' control of the ECU timing, I assume these power gains were obtained solely by using high-octane fuel and hence allowing the engine to give the car more timing. I think intercooling will provide at least 50% of this difference and high-octane fuel will provide the rest - another reason why I think 5-6psi of intercooled boost (via a turbo) will provide more power than the S/C.

What do you guys think?

 

on your 6-speed no problem on the Auto it is a disaster...

 

Will you post part numbers and where to buy?

 

Purchase from King Motorsports directly:

THERMOSTAT 19301-XGMR-0000 $69.00
FAN SWITCH 37760-XK5-00N0 $45.00
RADIATOR CAP 19045-XGER-0000 $29.00

Call 262-593-2800

 

king motor sport

THERMOSTAT 19301-XGMR-0000 $69.00
FAN SWITCH 37760-XK5-00N0 $45.00
RADIATOR CAP 19045-XGER-0000 $29.00

lazy bastard The search bottom is your best friend

 

Okay I will do this mod if I can see a Dyno before and after with OBD-II scanner...reading ECT....

 

I'd look at the TOV 6spd runs for your verification. Look at the 2nd run as the BEFORE and the 1st run as the AFTER

Nobody is going to do to the dyno... swap thermostats (drail/fill coolant in the process) and read ECT, blah, bah, blah!