Well as the title states every time I turn my sub all the way up and I'm parked my vsa lights come on and then when I restart the car and leave it turned down the light never comes on, what do you guys think it could be? I'm running 1000 watts rms

 

Where are you getting your power,remote,ground from? Try disconecting your rca's and crank it up again to rule out the the sub setup,amp/subs.Then try disconecting your remote wire and crank it up again.If it still does it I would say hu or hu wiring failing,possibly even check the vsa switch itself.

 

Well power is running down the drivers side door jamb connected to the battery, remote is connected to the HU(alpine cda-9886) along with the RCA's that run down the passanger side. The ground is connected to a bolt where 2 other wires are also grounded(possible issue). It never did this when I had the type R pushing 750 rms, nor the kenwood I "rented" the past week which was only getting about 200 watts rms. I was however screwing around with the VSA switch last night because the LED i had in there failed so I replaced it.

Ive noticed that it only does this when I am in park and crank it all the way after about 10 seconds of it, however when I am driving with it crank its no issue. I didnt install my capacitor this time and im thinking that may be an issue. I think whats happening is that on those really loud, deep booms it sucks out too much power and the vsa loses power and it thinks that there is an issue. The wires in the trunk I think are unrelated due to the fact that the vsa sensors and module are up front and they would more likely than not be grounded up there aswell.

 

What size power and ground wire are you using? Also, what amp are you running? What coils on the sub, etc? The more information you give, the better your answer will get. Also, do your lights dim when you crank the stereo? Do you have any idea what kind of voltage your system sits at, or where it's dropping to with the system cranked? I see you said you fried the mrp-850, and I have a feeling you might be looking at frying another amp if your voltage is dropping low enough...

I think you're right about your system drawing too much current and the VSA not being happy with that, and that's why the light is coming on.

 

Ok I have a 4 gauge wire for both power and greound, the amp is an alpine MRP-M1000, I found out that the old 850 was not blown but rather it was my type R that was blown and going below 2 ohms thus throwing the amp into protect mode. The new setup is a Kicker CVX 15 dual 4 ogm voice coils wired up at 2 ohms steady on the Alpine mrp-m1000. The sub and amp are matched perfectly as far as the power ratings are concerned, 1000 watts rms for 1000 watts rms. The lights don't really dim at all, only the map lights a tiny bit when at full blast.

I tried to make it happen again today and it did'nt happen once while I was parked. I think this may be just a fluke or the car getting used to the new strain on its electrical. I remember in the winter when I turned vsa off to do a couple of donuts(dumb I know). It did the same thing and wouldn't turn back on until the I restarted the car, that only happened once though.

 

How did you set your gain on the amp? Also, how high is the gain? If you set the gains with a DMM, that would probably help, and you might even set it a little lower, maybe 900-950w since I doubt if that amp does rated power after voltage drops.

 

Sorry for the late respose but its like this, I have a gain a bass eq and an LPF. I tuned the gain to about a 1/3 of the way up to one song (da blow by lil jon) the bass eq is all the way up, and the LPF is in the 80-100 range. My head has a HPF on and that is at 160, When I tuned my sub the volume is at 26 out of 30 or 35 and the bass on the head is all the way up along with the subwoofer control.

That workd fine on that song but when I went to a song with much lower deeper bass it was distorting every 2-3 seconds so now I need to re-tune and am having a hard time because Im trying to get the max out of this system even though I rarely ever listen to it that loud

 

for your retune.First turn your gain on your amp all the way down and do the same with your sub eq/bass boost.low pass,start at 60.Then go to the deck.put your bass level half.Turn your decks volume 3/4 of the full volume.Then back to the amp.Adjust the gain till it starts to distort/clip.then turn it down till its completly clear no distorstion.Then go to your LPF and tune this to your box needs,since its a 15 you probally want to be lower than 60hz.Then once your happy with that go to your boost setting.I find some songs like boost some dont.Thats why theres dash mounted boost controlers ,but a good starting place is 1/3to 1/2 to much boost will also cause cliping/no good for your subs.Now your set your at your systems peak power.If you dont have a dash mounted boost controler,you still havethe other half of your bass level on your deck to give you extra bass for the songs you want. Without getting to technical you should be able to follow these stepsand be much happier with your system

 

I just reread you post and you have a bass controler on your deck.set that at half also till your setup is the way you want it.That is the first place that you will be introducing distortion to your amp.And if you need more make adjustments after you follow the steps above.

 

Thanks for the help wish I woulda read that 2 hours ago though haha. Ended up going to a parking lot and did eexactly that. I Turned the bass on the deck to 0(its got a range of -7 to 7) turned the sub control all the way up. Went to the rear and turned the gain to 0 and the bass eq I left at max since it wasn't distorting. I then just slowly turned the gain up till it distorted slightly and backed off. I then went and tested it with a variety of songs and no more distortion whatsoever, it sounds great now.

Oh and no more VSA light! richard I saw that you have quite an array of subwoofers, how may whats are you running and what did you do to create the extra power you need? I dont think they make any high output alternators for our car do they?

 

If something is pulling enough current to trip lights on your dash, I would suspect you've got some wiring woes. At the very least, get a cap in your power stream of adequate rating to stabilize the line if you don't. Big caps and short grounds leads = happy amp.

 

I'm running 2 1600w BXI1608's 1 running the 12's 1600w@1ohm,and 1 is running the Fi 18@.5ohm wich I've been told my amp is putting out over 2000w like that.So I say 3600wrms.I have setting turned down a bit because I still have a stock alt and 1 battery.Its a monster Its cracked my wing,made the rear veiw usless and my rear bumper cover on the left side had it be retightend. Mechman has a 250 amp rinho alt for our cars,and those alts will do 150amps @750-800rpm's.They told me the alt would put out enough to properly handle 280-300 amps worth of load with only 1 extra battery.

 

i can tell u my car did that too with my JL 13"s it turned out to be the battery connection, and where i grounded it. once i redid that it never happened again.
also check and see if ur switch on the dash is loose in the back.