Got my UR Crank pulley installed (review)
#42
Senior Moderator
Originally posted by scalbert
There probably are things that could be done. You could delay the shift signals to always shift higher. You could also alter the line pressure control solenoid to gain higher line pressure for firmer shifts.
No one has really delved into the electronics of the 5AT. But things could be done.
There probably are things that could be done. You could delay the shift signals to always shift higher. You could also alter the line pressure control solenoid to gain higher line pressure for firmer shifts.
No one has really delved into the electronics of the 5AT. But things could be done.
#43
Burning Brakes
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Two more things I've noticed w/ my pulley:
1) At idle (in park) .. i watch my tach closely and i can see it has become more "jittery" .. compared to pre-pulley where it was smooth and would slowly lull up and down (tiny amounts) at idle.
2) At WOT .. everytime! i can feel a little vibration from the engine at vtec engagement (~4800 rpms) and I can hear more engine noise .. a little higher pitch ..
3) VTEC zone really does seem to have improved noticeably .. may be my imagination, but it's my best comparison to pre-pulley.
1) At idle (in park) .. i watch my tach closely and i can see it has become more "jittery" .. compared to pre-pulley where it was smooth and would slowly lull up and down (tiny amounts) at idle.
2) At WOT .. everytime! i can feel a little vibration from the engine at vtec engagement (~4800 rpms) and I can hear more engine noise .. a little higher pitch ..
3) VTEC zone really does seem to have improved noticeably .. may be my imagination, but it's my best comparison to pre-pulley.
#44
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Originally posted by typeR
ooooh i like the sound of that..let's talk
also couldnt we delay the signal to the ecu that 7200 rpms have been achieved?
ooooh i like the sound of that..let's talk
also couldnt we delay the signal to the ecu that 7200 rpms have been achieved?
As for holding a gear longer; that could be done but may require multiple signal clamps. Also, how would extra fuel be added as the revs kept climbing?? If you fooled the ECU into thinking that it was still at 6900 RPM and not climbing but the revs were actually 7500 RPM, you would be supplying about 8% less fuel than really needed. Also, the ECU may do some unusual things such as shift since the rate of change for the RPM has gone flat.
Lastly, is it really needed?? Torque is already dropping off to a point where, even with the reduction through gearing changes, the shift may provide more wheel torque.
#45
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Originally posted by TL_Type_S
1) At idle (in park) .. i watch my tach closely and i can see it has become more "jittery" .. compared to pre-pulley where it was smooth and would slowly lull up and down (tiny amounts) at idle.
1) At idle (in park) .. i watch my tach closely and i can see it has become more "jittery" .. compared to pre-pulley where it was smooth and would slowly lull up and down (tiny amounts) at idle.
This may help with the idle issue.
#46
Burning Brakes
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Scalbert, thank you for the advice:
When i restart the car .. should I do this w/o the fuse installed? Or should I pull the fuse out, wait ten seconds, and then re-install the fuse and start the car? Thanks
Raj
When i restart the car .. should I do this w/o the fuse installed? Or should I pull the fuse out, wait ten seconds, and then re-install the fuse and start the car? Thanks
Raj
#48
TL_TYPE_S
I just got my pulley installed today and just like ur first post I agree 100% with everything you said. Will I eventually get more out of the pulley or is this it? Just higher revs and basically thats it? Great review! Plus did u unhook ur battery and reconnect it? Does this really do SOMETHING?? hmm..
I just got my pulley installed today and just like ur first post I agree 100% with everything you said. Will I eventually get more out of the pulley or is this it? Just higher revs and basically thats it? Great review! Plus did u unhook ur battery and reconnect it? Does this really do SOMETHING?? hmm..
#50
Thanks I will try it. When you park the car after driving the shit out of it, do you have to let it sit for the rest of the day? Or can I let it sit for a couple more hrs and then drive it later that day?
Bigman empty your mailbox
Bigman empty your mailbox
#51
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If you dance around it during a full moon and spill the blood of a lamb you not only will have a faster car; you might also go to jail.
The thing I find interesting is that fact that the adaption (transmission wise) required a reset. It will be the same soon enough so save the time in reseting the clock, radio pre-sets, memory seats, etc. If reseting the ECU is good, I bet the spiralmax is GREAT.
The thing I find interesting is that fact that the adaption (transmission wise) required a reset. It will be the same soon enough so save the time in reseting the clock, radio pre-sets, memory seats, etc. If reseting the ECU is good, I bet the spiralmax is GREAT.
#52
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Originally posted by scalbert
If you dance around it during a full moon and spill the blood of a lamb you not only will have a faster car; you might also go to jail.
The thing I find interesting is that fact that the adaption (transmission wise) required a reset. It will be the same soon enough so save the time in reseting the clock, radio pre-sets, memory seats, etc. If reseting the ECU is good, I bet the spiralmax is GREAT.
If you dance around it during a full moon and spill the blood of a lamb you not only will have a faster car; you might also go to jail.
The thing I find interesting is that fact that the adaption (transmission wise) required a reset. It will be the same soon enough so save the time in reseting the clock, radio pre-sets, memory seats, etc. If reseting the ECU is good, I bet the spiralmax is GREAT.
Steve, does underdriving the pulley's make the alternator put out less juice?(dim the lights a bit, etc).
#53
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Originally posted by chris3240929
Steve, does underdriving the pulley's make the alternator put out less juice?(dim the lights a bit, etc).
Steve, does underdriving the pulley's make the alternator put out less juice?(dim the lights a bit, etc).
#54
Burning Brakes
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CyberCLS...
I'm gunna try Scalbert's suggestion, but probably won't bother pulling the battery and plugging that back in again .. his logic makes sense.
I'll let you know after the ECU reset..
hey, do you notice any increased noise from the engine in the cockpit under WOT .. any new vibrations?
I'm gunna try Scalbert's suggestion, but probably won't bother pulling the battery and plugging that back in again .. his logic makes sense.
I'll let you know after the ECU reset..
hey, do you notice any increased noise from the engine in the cockpit under WOT .. any new vibrations?
#55
TL_TYPE_S
I do notice the slightest sound. Car def runs smoother and no vibrations at all. Def let me no about his suggestion. You have a week on me so if you notice any difference at all with the crank please let me no. Do you notice any sound or anything?
I do notice the slightest sound. Car def runs smoother and no vibrations at all. Def let me no about his suggestion. You have a week on me so if you notice any difference at all with the crank please let me no. Do you notice any sound or anything?
#56
'Big Daddy Diggler'
Originally posted by scalbert
If you dance around it during a full moon and spill the blood of a lamb you not only will have a faster car; you might also go to jail.
The thing I find interesting is that fact that the adaption (transmission wise) required a reset. It will be the same soon enough so save the time in reseting the clock, radio pre-sets, memory seats, etc. If reseting the ECU is good, I bet the spiralmax is GREAT.
If you dance around it during a full moon and spill the blood of a lamb you not only will have a faster car; you might also go to jail.
The thing I find interesting is that fact that the adaption (transmission wise) required a reset. It will be the same soon enough so save the time in reseting the clock, radio pre-sets, memory seats, etc. If reseting the ECU is good, I bet the spiralmax is GREAT.
#58
Burning Brakes
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Originally posted by CYBERCLS
TL_TYPE_S
I do notice the slightest sound. Car def runs smoother and no vibrations at all. Def let me no about his suggestion. You have a week on me so if you notice any difference at all with the crank please let me no. Do you notice any sound or anything?
TL_TYPE_S
I do notice the slightest sound. Car def runs smoother and no vibrations at all. Def let me no about his suggestion. You have a week on me so if you notice any difference at all with the crank please let me no. Do you notice any sound or anything?
#60
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Originally posted by unsure
a hypothetical question...if u had decided to go NA instead of boosted, would u have purchased UR pulleys?
a hypothetical question...if u had decided to go NA instead of boosted, would u have purchased UR pulleys?
#61
Suzuka Master
Originally posted by TL_Type_S
I am also noticing a little harsher start-up when the engine is cold. It's perfectly fine after the engine's been warmed up. however, after sitting out in the cold overnight, it seems like there's more of a clatter in the engine bay when I start it up. Wonder if that has to do w/ the lower weight on the crank shaft.
I am also noticing a little harsher start-up when the engine is cold. It's perfectly fine after the engine's been warmed up. however, after sitting out in the cold overnight, it seems like there's more of a clatter in the engine bay when I start it up. Wonder if that has to do w/ the lower weight on the crank shaft.
The stock piece had a chunk of rubber for NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) *and* torsional vibration suppression.
#62
Burning Brakes
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Originally posted by EricL
Less damping on the crankshaft == more noise.
The stock piece had a chunk of rubber for NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) *and* torsional vibration suppression.
Less damping on the crankshaft == more noise.
The stock piece had a chunk of rubber for NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) *and* torsional vibration suppression.
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