TL_Type_S

First of all, i read on the UR *.pdf that it takes 5-7 days for the "engine to recognize the lighter weight of the crank pulley" .. any truth to this?

Second, I do feel a difference right off the bat... the car snaps a little better off the line .. downshifting is quicker... but nothing is super noticeable at this point. This is how I felt about my headers and intake when those were both installed .. i was sketchy on whether i really felt the difference..

However, w/ the headers/intake.. after a week, I REALLY started to feel a big difference. So I suspect this will be no different w/ this crank pulley. I picked up the stock pulley and wow! what a difference in weight .. i could do curls w/ the old one.

sgmotoring

Is your UR pulley an underdrive pulley? If so, how much smaller is it?

Chopsie

How much did it set ya back ?

darrinb

cant wait to get mine on

TL_Type_S

$80.00 for install, $24.00 for two Gates belts (both recommended by UR), $1.20 for the pop I had while I waited the 45 minutes to get my pulley installed.

TL_Type_S

supposedly it is an underdrive pulley .. it's noticeably smaller than the stock one... my car revs about 50 rpms higher at idle now .. kinda smooths out some roughness i had prior to install.

CYBERCLS

cant wait to have mice installed too-i ad it in the garage for a lil and now i have ti find a legit place to install it.

ChucksTL_RENAMED

Underdrive ratio is 15% (your accessories are turning 15% slower than before), stock damper 8 lbs, UR unit 1.2lbs. These figures are from memory but should be close!

scalbert

None what so ever...

TL_Type_S

I noticed that the official Stillen Parts Catalog includes the complete UR pulley set for several nissan cars... and I know Nissan acknowledges Stillen as their official aftermarket parts division .. i wonder if they feel the UR line is legitimate.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Tell me how it feels after a week. I am going to install this mod soon along with an intake. Hope i feel the gains.

TL_Type_S

brian .. if i forget to write a review.. feel free to PM me in a week and I'll let you know ... I've post an in-depth comparison. At this point, I'm trying real hard to be objective.. and since the snow is starting to clear up .. i'll be able to do more "testing."

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I tried pming you but its full. Just wondering where you got it installed and how much. Thanx in advance.

TL_Type_S

Brian .. sorry -- just cleared the PM box..

Garage Kwai .. HIGHLY recommended, tell them Raj w/ the white TL-S sent you .. Benson & his guys have done about 10 of these, it took them 45 minutes, cost me $80.00.

bigman

dude, unplug the negative end of your battery for about 2 hours and then plug it back in and drive it like you stole it for about 10 minutes. When you wake up the next day and drive the car, you will thank me.

TL_Type_S

i'll do it tonight, thanks for the tip.

scalbert

And what will this do?? What specifically is altered in the ECU?? Are fuel trim tables changed which would be unaffected by a pulley change.

Please stop the BS unless you have something to back it other than optimism in feeling something. Any detectable difference would need to be at least 5% of which a pulley, yet alone an ECU reset, would not provide.

I know what is occuring and it has nothing to do with power changes. If you don't know then maybe you should learn prior to supplying such information.

TL_Type_S

wow!

randomwalk101

Stock pulley (crank) has a harmonic balancer built in....UR does not....it might effect the way your engine works (balance) and can damage your clutch/tranny...I believe someone here had problem before with the flywheel or something kept snapping...so becareful.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Thanx for the info. Car boutique is were i go too. They did all my suspension work for me. Really good prices too. What you think installing all 3 pulleys will cost? And how much for an icebox if you know. Thanx in advance.

TL_Type_S

All 3 pulleys = $100.00, Icebox = $30.00

I've been to car boutique.. Larry there does the comptech s/c's ...

rondog

iTrader: (1)

dude, calm down, i had this done after 2 months of proven poor performance. I was depressed my car was so slow and I ran with some other cars and got spanked. i did this and ran with the same cars (Bigman's TL-P and a 325i) and signifacantly won to 80 mph (sorry bigman). And i felt a major differnece in acceleration. just cuz you didn't do it right, doesn't mean you have shoot the procedure down. granted I did the procedure once and it didn't work because I repluged the car back in too early, it has to been done right to work and it will show the next day.

EricL

I can understand Steve's stance on this, as I had to reset my Navi twice (for about 1 hour). Two previous sessions had the unit off for only 20-minutes and the Navi never cleared out some settings (long story). So, my own personal experience was completely different (OK, everybody can have different experiences and it doesn’t prove anything; this is simple logic.) (BTW, a NAVI reset is preformed by disconnecting the battery for a set period of time.)

In any event, the car was performing well, and I couldn't tell that anything had changed (and I had put on headers, AEM CAI, and wheels at one point).

So, I know that some people say they get a big boost, and if it works great. However, the basic "facts" that Scalbert is presenting are to the best of my knowledge correct...

EricL

It is NOT a harmonic balancer.

The stock pulley has a chunk of rubber that absorbs/damps TORSIONAL vibrations. The engine is basically in balance with either pulley.

http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...ight=torsional

BTW, so far I don't know of anyone with A CLS having a problem.

YMMV

mattg

my car is fine. i've had the pulley for at least 15K miles. runs smooth, doesn't use oil etc.


the whole resetting the ecu thing is

scalbert

No reason to calm down but I do see a reason to cease these myths.

Actually I have been messing with the engine controls in this car for coming up on four years. I have had a laptop hooked up to it hundreds of times and many of those times after resting the ECU. Not only that, I have worked with the manufacturers' engineers in tuning ECU parameters (we supply external data acquisition systems) prior to or post production. Needless to say I have some experience in this area.

There seems to be two camps here, those who are ignorant on engine controls and believe what they want to out of optimism. And then those who understand or test engine control alterations and know what occurs during a reset.

I lean back to the prior statement; if you do not know what is occurring then how can you be sure of the results?? Additionally and this is not my claim, it is somewhat universally accepted, it takes a minimum of a 5% change in power to really detect it. On a motor with I/H/P this would be about 12.5 WHP which is what the pulleys alone would give. So under that line of thinking the actual mass change of the pulley yields nothing without an ECU reset which alone would not account for 12.5WHP.

But let’s look at what is occurring during a reset which is known and can be read with a laptop and software. All fuel trim tables are reset to 0% but since these are only adjusted at idle or part throttle the WOT pulls in the "drive it like you stole it" concept are irrelevant. Additionally any changes would be trimmed out as that is the premise of the closed loop fuel control system. There does not appear to be adaptive spark control in our cars as is in the newer Accord. And by watching the ignition timing under similar conditions after the reset you can see that it runs the same advance.

So we now have verifiable evidence that there is no power changing values occurring in the ECU after a reset. To make more power with a reset the ECU would need to change the fueling and/or the timing as the 3rd parameter in power production is not controlled by the ECU; the airflow in. The values are the same within minutes after a reset.

So where does this optimistic power increase come from; perception. Remember, our transmission does adapt to driving characteristic. If reset to factory defaults and then driven hard it would be safe to assume the ECU would adapt to the requested higher shift points and potentially provide firmed shifts as well. This could give the impression of more power as the car is held in a lower gear longer and the shift is quicker; a perceived power gain but it actually is the same. However, there could be increased performance particularly when racing in a straight line and someone has the standard mods which keeps the power up longer. If held in a lower gear longer and the shifts are shortened this could give a sight edge in a race and may be what people feel is increased power. But in the end it is still the same power, it is just being used better.

But now the caveat, the transmission control system is always adapting. As such if you stop driving aggressively the shift points may be lowered and dulled. Then you are back to square one...

Ray Khan

maybe for some...but I think 15% is a more reasoanble number for most people (i.e. people who ask which intake is best when the difference is less than they could ever feel) Another point is that feeling faster is not always faster. To me my car doesn't feel 55 more whp faster than it was before with a smaller turbo. But with the kit I have no, the power comes on very smoothly. The old setup had an abrubt turbo kick whereas power is much more linear now. So how power is added in the tq curve also affects feel. Just my $.02

Nashua_Night_Hawk

Once you have a tool like a Gtech Competition with Data logging, it is really easy to see what scalbert is saying:"it takes a minimum of a 5% change in power to really detect it."

Just check my CLS 2n Gear WHP run here: http://www.gtechproforums.com/forums...s=&threadid=25

The Gtech Claimed my CLS does 213 WHP. There is some estimated 12-15 HP drag loss, so that is 228 WHP clsoe to what you exect on a dyno.

FREE Software is here: http://www.gtechprosupport.com/support/PASS.htm


The G force in 2nd gear is like 0.3G, can you feel 0.3 or 0.305G?

BTW: You can download the software

rondog

iTrader: (1)

damn, I'm too tired to read your post. I Know it worked for me and i don't need to prove it to you to make myself happy. No hard feelings.

bigman

Everytime i make a post about resetting the ecu, a bunch of yopu guys that know about the car chime and and say that this is false. I thought it was the placebo(sp?) effect but what happened between me and rondog is right. I would actually pull on him or hang with him from 50 mph rolls on the highway. Then he resets his ecu and we run again the following day and he beats me by like 3 car lengths by the time we shut down. This is not about proving you or anyone wrong its about doing what i feel worked for me and what made me happy. When i got my headers they felt like shit, same withintake and pullies. I felt nothing. I tested this theory by making 3 runs from a certain point to another point and marking down my mph and the end of the run. After resetting the ecu i was able to best myself in those runs by an average of 7 mph. Not trying to start a flame war, we will leave the trolls to that. But you have your opinion and facts and i have mine. My opinion is that it works, my facts may not be solid, but they make me happy so why not let others try it out too. If, its the placebo effect then let it be.

typeR

steve let me play devils advosate here ...is it possible that some of these cars are riding around with pulled timing due to things like heat soak and by resetting timing goes back to 0 there fore more power?

i will admit this and i am one of those that does not understand the ecu and how it works but on more than one occasion i have driven it hard for a couple hours in the evening cold and dry wake up the next day and the cat seems to pull noticably harder then the night before when it was colder and drier...this is w/o an ecu reset and in addition every time i go to the trak my car does get faster pass after pass upto about the 5th pass depending on how many hot laps i get

TL_Type_S

Scalbert,

I've come to read all of your posts and I respect your knowledge base .. hence my question for you: what do you think of the crank pulley and the longevity/adverse-effects on the motor?

THanks

scalbert

rondog, of course no hard feelings.

I believe both of you, rondog even mentioned it, did not read my last post on this. So I will summarize the details.

The ECU behaves the same with the engine, using the same values for fuel and timing so power would remain the same. However, the transmission may behave differently. If the transaxle shifts higher and firmer it may improve performance without the engine actually making power.

This may be the perceived difference.

mattg

too bad we can't lock in those shift settings.

scalbert

Timing is not something that has a trim function for long term use. The advance value is determined by look up tables based on sensor inputs. There is nothing to reset.

Heat soak will hurt power and can make a difference but this is irrelevant of the ECU being reset or not.

scalbert

Honestly I can't say for sure. Until there is more time on the motor we can't say for sure. In theory there might be a problem but in practical application it is irrelevant.

So far it seems that it might not be a problem but until we see some engine wear value after 50k miles or so we can't say for sure either way. But if 15k has occurred and everything looks fine then that is probably good enough for most. This is why I have always been on the fence about this subject.

scalbert

There probably are things that could be done. You could delay the shift signals to always shift higher. You could also alter the line pressure control solenoid to gain higher line pressure for firmer shifts.

No one has really delved into the electronics of the 5AT. But things could be done.

RUF87

I've always said one of the best mods would be to get a better performing tranny . . . this one is slow and soft.

A good "shift kit" or "electronic shift kit" and a better torque converter would recover some of that lost HP at the wheels . . as much as 20HP at the wheel IMO.

And maybe 3-5ths in the 1/4

So when is someone going to install one of Dean's aftermarket trannys? I would if I had the $$$$

Of course you'd need to tighten up that suspension to eliminate too much movement.

Ruf

darrinb

thats all i worry about w/ aftermarket pulleys

TL_Type_S

Yeah.. i'm gunna have this car less than 10K miles... so I'm not super worried about it .. in 10K the performance mods get pulled off, I go back to stock, and the car goes to my bro. At that point, I want it to last about 20-30k miles for him.