Been a while since i been on here havent done much to the car other than burn tires since i did the 3.5 build ( still runnin strong)
Sunday i picked up a 2005 TL 6MT. Plated it hoping to have a bit of fun with it before tearing it to pieces but the clutch is gone lol. Still drives under normal light load but won't hold high power.

My plans are to use as much as possible from this car which include :
The transmission (obviously right)
Shifter assembly and lines
The clutch pedal
Master cylinder i want from EM2 (01-05)civic right?! ( No valve in those from what ive gathered)
Slave cylinder from the TL
I want the Brembo calipers but might put them on the shelf for a future project.
Clutch from 04-06 TL (NEW)
Flywheel from 03 CLS or 04 TL?





Cant wait to get it into the CL hopefully over the winter.
Gotta work overtime to buy the damn AEM EMS lolAnyone have a good suggestion of where to tune this when its done in the Ottawa area? ( Or anywhere in Ontario really)

 

I believe you'll be the first to do a 3G TL 6MT swap into a 2G CL 3.5 automatic.

Since you are not using a '03 CL-S manual ECU, in its stead the AEM EMS, you would not need the CL-S6 flywheel because it has the triggers for the tranny side crank sensor only found on the CL-S6; therefore, I would think the clutch & flywheel, native to the 3G 2005 6MT TL would be used.

With that said:
You may just want to fix the clutch and swap a j35A6 from the non hybrid Ody into your new TL?

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...spd-tl-964791/

 

Its tempting for sure to keep this car but it needs a whole new suspension and its rusty. Basically it needs everything ive already done to the CL lol.

Love the car though and ide definitely buy one that was better kept but i wouldnt spend any $ on this one.
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Out from the bottom



Some progress on the project

 

Just curious, with the AEM EMS, will you be utilizing the 'drive by cable' functionality of the 2G CL or the 'drive by wire' functionality of the 3G TL?

 

Ill be keeping the cable.
i didn't know you could do wire on the AEM.
Ive just been reading on using a B series TB. P2R makes an adapter for the IAC.

​I'll probably leave the motor alone and just do a new exhaust with P2R big tube headers and the new oem LUK clutch and dual mass flywheel.
Im still deciding on dual vs single muffler but i need to ditch the magnaflows they sound straight piped i even added a 3rd mid muffler but my ears can't take it anymore. Im thinking a mild flowmaster or two with trubendZ pipes.
The look of the duals is nice but function and price of the extra muffler i dunno.
If i go single ill do dual outlet muffler like my old Cb7 and fill the one side on the bumper.

 

lol, that's why I was asking. I'm not sure if you can or not.

Since the J32A3 heads are 'single port' exhaust, can the J32A2 heads be swapped onto the J32A3?
That would need to happen to allow for the multi-exhaust port P2R big tube headers, correct?

 

Ah i see what u mean.
i wont be using the J32A3 ive actually listed it on Kijiji to sell it to recoup some $$ for parts ( ive already got another complete j32a2 and another j32a2 block so i dont really need another block)
I'll be running the 6MT on my j35a3 with the j32a2 heads and pistons.

 

Some progress. I decided to dig right in yesterday.

List of things going on:
P2R big tubes
P2R poly subframe bushings all around
P2R poly radius rod
AC delete
Luk oem style clutch and flywheel
Civic CMC
AEM EMS
AEM wideband
Trubendz 3" ( stilll deciding on single pipe or dual.. i dont wanna buy 2 mufflers lol)
3" cat, resonator and muffler (s?!)
New fuel lines and possibly upgraded pump ( i got a gas smell i think my lines are rotted underneath somewhere)
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I'm definitely curious about those big tube headers from P2R. I'll be buying them for my girl's CL-S6 eventually, but I'm wondering how much gains I'd see on my car. Not enough info out there on them.

 

I would like to see if there are any fitment issues on an installed CL-S6 engine.

 

If if they're making them for these engines I can't imagine they'd have fitness issues, but who knows.
Unless you're talking about the bend on the tubing for the manual transmission, then yeah, they have that.

 

Starting with post #24, this guy in Russia, had to do some modifications to get his to fit his 2G TL equivalent for that region.

https://acurazine.com/forums/new-mem...e-evil-969014/

I presume they (P2R) have made adjustments with this latest batch?

 

Interesting, I'll be keeping this in mind.

 

Look at the second paragraph on their website for these headers:

https://www.powerrevracing.com/P2R-J...der-p/p376.htm

 

Yeah that thread is theyre older design the new one does away with the J pipe and puts the collector further back.

Ill take pics of everything when i getem lets hope they fit lol

 

Does this qualify for a worn motor mount?! They could have at least stuck the stud further into the rubber hahahha. Brand new innovative 95a (for automatic) mounts on the way. Im hoping theyre stiff enough so the big tube headers never touch.

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The front headers were hitting the subframe so trimmed a small tab off the 2nd layer and then made 2 small cuts heated and smashed in a small section. Weld the cuts after.

Thats it now with decent clearance. Im not worried with the 95a mounts.

Pictures arent the best to show the subframe clearly but it was JUST touching. Maybe a hair away.

 

^

Those big tube headers look great.
You are going to have a nice sounding NA beast with that manual J35A3.

 

Can't wait to put those same headers on my girlfriend's car. I can already imagine the headache they'll cause me.

 

3" super50 Dual 2.5 out.

Ill have to do something to the empty side.

Ill post some sound clips after i figure out all the wiring for AEM EMS.
so far i know i need to hook up the speed sensor from the 05 TL tranny and the reverse lockout.
also ill need a coolant temp gauge appearsntly theres no output on the aem just input.

 

One question:
Since you are utilizing the 05 TL shifter assembly and lines, have you had a chance to see if the TL shifter assembly has a matching 'foot print' to the CL's chassis mount area? They are probably pretty close?

Can't tell from the vendor parts diagrams if they are close;
CL-S6:
Shift Lever for 2003 Acura CL COUPE | Acura OEM Parts
CL-S auto:
Select Lever for 2003 Acura CL COUPE | Acura OEM Parts
05 TL6:
Shift Lever for 2005 Acura TL SEDAN | Acura OEM Parts

 

2 bolts lined up the other 2 were drilled and the whole center console was shimmed up an inch in the rear the clear it with the boot on otherwise moving side to side would bang the surrounding plastic.

 

I also ended up purchasing cls6 pedals from ebay because the TL pedals lined up funny.

 

For the discontinued cross beam mount for transmission i used the 05 tl mounts.


Modified front mount. I cut that "ear" piece off my stock right side motor mount.

Innovative mount on the back. A few washers lined everything up square.

Rivnuts attached this mount to the frame rail. Battery relocated to trunk to make this work. You could still find a way to mount battery near oem spot but i decided on rear right trunk area for battery.

 

Are you going to keep the auto E brake pedal or try and incorporate the 05 TL E brake lever assembly?
If you manage the TL E brake assembly that would be cool to see.

 

For the e brake i had previously bought the cls6 hand lever from a local part out. I think i had to drill one hole.
using the auto center console required alot of hacking.
I think i ended up using a combination of the 05 cup holders into the CL auto centre console.
I already have a gutted interior so i wasnt worried about the looks.

 

Here we go got her started first time on AEM EMS.

 

I had to complete the starting cut relay circuit by grounding blu/white wire where the transmission range switch used to hook up in engine bay.
ILl probably wire it into the clutch pedal switch after. For now its just looped on the connector.
this was the only problem i really ran into.
My rpm output is messed up probably because the Aem ems is wired for a civic dash?

 

Correct. The AEM is sending 4 pulses to the Tacho for every engine revolution (one for each cylinder) because it's tuned for a 4 cylinder cluster (which obviously expects 4 cylinders per revolution). This means that your RPM will be 66.6% of what it should be. Change your Tacho graph under the "Tacho-Speedo" tab to something like this:


This setup will have the AEM send 6 pulses per revolution, as there's 24 teeth in the timing gear I think. This takes all of 5 minutes, but some people still say you have to use a 4 cylinder cluster lmao.

 

Excellent thank you! One more piece to the puzzle.

 

Did anyone ever figure out the coolant temp gauge?
could i use the signal off the sensor directly or is it modified by the stock PCM?
Aem sells a canbus gauge that would display it i was thinking of using it but i like the idea of using the oem one.
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The AEM 30-6051 box is absolutely incapable of sending a coolant temp signal. This is plug and play in the other EMS boxes, and I have no idea why AEM omitted it for this box. I worked with Bob at Modifry to power the OEM coolant gauge by using his S2000 ECT Module. Shoot Bob an email, and he might be able to help more.

 

So i got a few short drives in and adjusted a bit of fueling.

My speedometer wasnt working and its because i pulled all the pins from my ecu plugs that werent needed ( i thought) to protect the ECU from unwanted connections. ( I know its plug and play but someone mentioned plugging in the trans range sensor would fry the ECU.

According to JohsonCG i am removing d12 and connecting to D9 to give the proper ground for the sensor.
Also he removes the mainshaft connector and the countershaft wire gets plugged into the mainshaft sensor. ( What is the purpose of doing this?) Could i not just wire the mainshaft sensor like so:
D11 - red wire mainshaft +
D9 - white wire mainshaft -
C28 - yel/blu wire +5v source.

Also is there any use for the AEM to know the countershaft speed? Is it capable of maps for certain gears? Or outputs controlled by gear?
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​​​​​​OTher than that she drives like brand new.
ALl the hard poly subframe mounts and 95a motor mounts with the 6 puck p2r disk really give for a great feedback. ( No dampers in clutch hydro)

 

You can check out the following thread to make your speedo work:
https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...pm-fix-878358/

There's really no reason to pull pins. Just discard/sell your auto trans range switch and harness.

 

Got it all hooked up works great!
Been watching jonathan faskings videos getting it running better.
I definately need a professional to tune the timing i feel its way off but i don't understand the map or the theory behind it enough yet the mess with it too much. Ive raised a few areas that had zero power a bit but it would be nice to know the factory map to fill in some blanks or get the basic idea of the curve and how it looks for a j series.
Anyone know what the factory timing map looks like ?