anything? or is it completely pointless?

 

The horsepower is negligible, but I believe the sound changes a little bit. I had the drop-in and I think it gives a little more aggressive sound.

 

Do a home-made CAI with the K&N and you will get almost the same result as a Comptec icebox. Do a search for details.

 

I had a K&N drop-in filter when I bought my car. I didn't know it until I replaced it with the Icebox.

It gives a more agressive sound, and you can easily hear the VTEC engage.

After replacing the stock airbox w/ K&N filter with the Comptech Icebox, the sound is the same at WOT, but the VTEC engagement is not as obvious as before.

I noticed gains w/ the Icebox, so it makes more power than just the stock airbox + K&N.

 

It removes dirt particles from the incoming air flow.

 

K&N air filters are far less restrictive than the OEM filters used by auto makers. This is accomplished via a larger number of "pleats" that are wrapped around several layers of cotton. These filters are alos washable and of course reusable so they should last the lifetime of the car. K&N has been making these for well over 30 years!
They are now also available for HD truck and equipment use under the name Cleer - Air
by Environmental Fleet Services based in LA. When used in HD over-the-highway trucks a fuel savings of from 2% to 4% can be expected.

 

i don't know about performance gains, but it eliminates the cost of filter replacement. personally, i got it for less than $6 (misplaced decimal point in autozone's computer when they first carried it) about 60k miles ago. it sure saved me money.

 

K&N + remove lower resonator =s about 6-8 hp

 

I've read in the other post that resonator protects the filter from water. or am I on crack ?

anyway what is a resonator? anyone got pics or DIY on home-made CAI?

 

How do you remove the lower resonator off the CLs?

 

any of the cai install instructions will show it removal try comptech or aem

 

I don't know why removing the resonator would protect the filter from water.

If the resonator had a flapper valve that opened when it detected too much vacuum, it would be a bad thing to remove from a hydrolock perspective (it also sits pretty low -- so, a flapper valve down that low would be pretty marginal). If you remove it, you are actually moving the air intake point upward (this assumes that you don’t add your own piping/ducting to a lower point near the ground.)

The resonator doesn’t have a flapper valve.

AND

If you remove the resonator, you *could* actually move the air intake point *higher*. This would generally result in a lower possibility of water ingestion from water in the street.

YMMV

 

found this TL resonator removal DIY

http://www.abunchofcars.com/diy_page.../resonator.htm

go to the root of the page and there is a bunch of other DIYs

can somebody tell me which part in these pictures is the actual resonator? I am probably just not understanding at all what the resonator is.... stupid me


oh, and I was probably wrong about the water thing, please disregard
PS. I am preparing for some microsoft certs right now and trying to cram so much info in my head, it was probably just a brain fart

 

Picture of resonator (with air horn attached):
LINK: http://www.abunchofcars.com/diy_page...per_%20078.jpg

 

wait a minute.... so the this whole box is the resonator?? and the whole thing has to be taken out ?

 

YUP...

 

will go get a K&N and do it on sunday then, thanks for help

 

Removing this "noise resonator" is not going to do a thing for your engine performance,
at least that you will be able to tell by the seat of the pants. Acura used these things as far back as 1987. I removed them from twin 1988 Sterlings I had and it made no defference what so ever.
Do not confuse these contraptions with the exhaust "reasonator" most cars are eqipped with. Major ass difference.

 

so what is this then?

I think there are as many opinions as there are people. no clue who to believe

 

belcom, I have had the stock setup, K & N drop-in and now I have a Comptech icebox. Your best performance bet is to just get a true cold air intake (like the AEM or icebox). Th drop-in filter does not offer significant gains in horsepower.

Save your money on the drop-in and appy it to a real intake - you will be happier in the long run. I am partial to the icebox, since it looks stock.

Good luck!

 

first of all that pic is not what a cl type S air box or lower resonator looks like...second removong the lower resonator does free up the path of air flow allowing more to be pulled in...it has been dyno proven...third ...note my sig

 

if i had it to do over right now i would keep the stock air box with k&N drop in and fab some pipe that replaces the lower resonator ,something that looks like what supplied with the comptech ice box...i would then have 99 % of the performance of the ice box for 50-75$

 

Thats what I did...

 

Could you go into a little detail on what you did please.