Custom Poly Engine Mounts
#241
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
First 5 digits are the product class (oil filters, timing belts, and so on), middle 3 are product code it was ORIGINALLY developed for (SH3 = 3 door 88-91 Civic, SH2 = 88-91 CRX and so on), the last three are basically the version of the part or the supplier (first gen parts are usually 000, new revesions result in new numbers).
If those spherical bushings work I wonder if would could organize a group buy for them. $105 is alittle steep, Id be willing to do it if they were $90 or so shipped.
If those spherical bushings work I wonder if would could organize a group buy for them. $105 is alittle steep, Id be willing to do it if they were $90 or so shipped.
#242
Senior Moderator
This is just damn genius!!!!
I am also in contact with them. They sell the LCA bearing replacements for the bushings for the 2002 Accord which is a direct fit replacement for our car, TL or CL.
I have also cross referenced all the part numbers for the radius rod bearing parts between the two cars and all of the first 5 digits are the same.
Prelude,
front bushing 51381-SM4-013
rear bushing 51391-SM4-013
disk washers 51399-SM4-000
bolt 90303-SF1-003 it is the same
TL/CL
front bushing 51381-S84-A01
rear bushing 51391-S84-A01
disk washers 51399-SOA-000
bolt 90303-SF1-003 it is the same
Even the radius rods have the same first 5 digits.
If I cant reach them I may just order a set and see what happens to the caster. They would work for sure but you may have to shim the radius rod to achieve the correct caster which would not be difficult. I have done it before. It would just take a steel collar sized to the correct length.
There was a thread here about what the first 5 digits meant, the second 3 digits, and the third 3 digits. Who wants to find it?
What a great mod this would be! I bet it would altogether eliminate the wheel hop.
I am also in contact with them. They sell the LCA bearing replacements for the bushings for the 2002 Accord which is a direct fit replacement for our car, TL or CL.
I have also cross referenced all the part numbers for the radius rod bearing parts between the two cars and all of the first 5 digits are the same.
Prelude,
front bushing 51381-SM4-013
rear bushing 51391-SM4-013
disk washers 51399-SM4-000
bolt 90303-SF1-003 it is the same
TL/CL
front bushing 51381-S84-A01
rear bushing 51391-S84-A01
disk washers 51399-SOA-000
bolt 90303-SF1-003 it is the same
Even the radius rods have the same first 5 digits.
If I cant reach them I may just order a set and see what happens to the caster. They would work for sure but you may have to shim the radius rod to achieve the correct caster which would not be difficult. I have done it before. It would just take a steel collar sized to the correct length.
There was a thread here about what the first 5 digits meant, the second 3 digits, and the third 3 digits. Who wants to find it?
What a great mod this would be! I bet it would altogether eliminate the wheel hop.
#243
Instructor
How about a DIY? Im wantin to do this, however, i dont know where to start. I have the general idea. Remove mounts, Tape up, and fill. However, i dont know where to tape, and where to fill..
#244
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
You fill at the top, and tape everything else
The side and rear mounts are the easiest. Just tape off one side completely so nothing can pass through, then slowly pour in the poly from the opposite side. Then walk away. Come back in 7 days.
The front is trickier. I taped off the bottom of the mount which turned out to be a mistake, as I made a huge mess because the poly leaked from one small crack that I missed. If I were to do it again, I'd turn the mount upside down and fill it from the bottom. If I can't sell my old mounts I may re-do the front and side, as that arent that neat looking.
Speaking of which, I have my old mounts listed in the BM:
https://acurazine.com/forums/car-parts-sale-361/2003-cl-s-6mt-motor-mounts-727747/
Thats great for those of you who have the CL as a daily and can't wait for the poly to cure to put your mounts back in.
The side and rear mounts are the easiest. Just tape off one side completely so nothing can pass through, then slowly pour in the poly from the opposite side. Then walk away. Come back in 7 days.
The front is trickier. I taped off the bottom of the mount which turned out to be a mistake, as I made a huge mess because the poly leaked from one small crack that I missed. If I were to do it again, I'd turn the mount upside down and fill it from the bottom. If I can't sell my old mounts I may re-do the front and side, as that arent that neat looking.
Speaking of which, I have my old mounts listed in the BM:
https://acurazine.com/forums/car-parts-sale-361/2003-cl-s-6mt-motor-mounts-727747/
Thats great for those of you who have the CL as a daily and can't wait for the poly to cure to put your mounts back in.
#245
Instructor
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Whittier Area, CA, USA
Age: 40
Posts: 115
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Link to the album, hopefully it will tke you otherwise i'll be back maybe 12noon PT
http://picasaweb.google.com/rtgarcia...eat=directlink
http://picasaweb.google.com/rtgarcia...eat=directlink
#246
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Hmmmm. Since there isnt any retaining ring around it I wonder if the poly will just squeeze out of it when the mount compresses.
#248
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (14)
i have 60a poly urethane for sale if anyone needs..
https://acurazine.com/forums/car-parts-sale-361/01-cl-02-tl-complete-part-out-total-loss-accident-726070/
https://acurazine.com/forums/car-parts-sale-361/01-cl-02-tl-complete-part-out-total-loss-accident-726070/
#250
i think so. chtrcy has his front and side completed. wheel hop is very minimal and i know he is happy. those pictures saved me from having to remove his rear auto mount to look at how i was going to pour them. thanks!
i could see where it would put a little more stress on the front mount, not having the rear mount reinforced.
i could see where it would put a little more stress on the front mount, not having the rear mount reinforced.
#251
MP90 uninstalled
For that rear mount on the auto I would use 80A all the way around. The doughnut you create should hold it in place and the 80A will make up for the smaller surface area of compression under that smaller plate, only two sides of it will be compressed. The other way to do it is to get the top plate from an old or blown front mount and just put it in place of the rectangular shaped plate from the stock rear auto mount. The poly will stay and if it doesn’t going to a slightly harder compound will eventually keep it in place. You just need to make sure you go all the way around the mount so the doughnut formed by the poly will keep itself from squeezing out.
#252
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (1)
For that rear mount on the auto I would use 80A all the way around. The doughnut you create should hold it in place and the 80A will make up for the smaller surface area of compression under that smaller plate, only two sides of it will be compressed. The other way to do it is to get the top plate from an old or blown front mount and just put it in place of the rectangular shaped plate from the stock rear auto mount. The poly will stay and if it doesn’t going to a slightly harder compound will eventually keep it in place. You just need to make sure you go all the way around the mount so the doughnut formed by the poly will keep itself from squeezing out.
#254
Instructor
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Age: 37
Posts: 152
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i used that. i have it right now..., filling is better..
i used it all over the front mount and alot of it just got pushed outside.. side seems to be holding up ok. and rear i can't see well lol. This wouldn't do anything "bad" just not as good as using liquid poly and filling everything on the inside.
So yes it will work,
also if u planing to do 3 motor mounts get two tubes.
i used it all over the front mount and alot of it just got pushed outside.. side seems to be holding up ok. and rear i can't see well lol. This wouldn't do anything "bad" just not as good as using liquid poly and filling everything on the inside.
So yes it will work,
also if u planing to do 3 motor mounts get two tubes.
#255
the 6 speed mount is completely different. i have posted pictures of it before in this thread.
also that caulk is not the same at the liquid poly. you will have plenty of air gaps and i also be the final product will not be anywhere as stiff. but to each his own. i got the poly idea from guys that have used that caulk before (cleancl).
also that caulk is not the same at the liquid poly. you will have plenty of air gaps and i also be the final product will not be anywhere as stiff. but to each his own. i got the poly idea from guys that have used that caulk before (cleancl).
#258
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Got my new rear mount in finally. Never again will I do that. It was hell.
But the test drive was worth it. Engaging gears feels so much better. Braking feels so much better. Ive lost that slight vibration on the highway.
The engine doesnt vibrate that much in the cabin, at least by my standards. Once the a/c is on though, you notice it. But just like prior to installing the rear mount, once you start driving it feels like stock.
But the test drive was worth it. Engaging gears feels so much better. Braking feels so much better. Ive lost that slight vibration on the highway.
The engine doesnt vibrate that much in the cabin, at least by my standards. Once the a/c is on though, you notice it. But just like prior to installing the rear mount, once you start driving it feels like stock.
#260
Senior Moderator
#261
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
#262
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
#263
Senior Moderator
if you wrer standing in front of car looking at engine bay lower right on sub frame about 5 inches square maybe 2 inches wide side by side with a slight space between them allows you to slide rear mount in n out from top of engine instead of from underneath
#264
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
The worst part about it was a tripped over the floor jack and put my hands out to stop the fall and landed on my bumper. I had the motor mount bolt in my hand. Luckily the scratches can be buffed out.
The second worst part was the heat. It was about 90* sunday and extremely humid.
#265
Senior Moderator
Thats how I did it. I unbolted the rear torque damper and slid the mount out. It was still a pain in the ass because once I got the mount bolted to the rear crossmember the motor mount bolt wouldnt line up, and vice versa. I finally got it though.
The worst part about it was a tripped over the floor jack and put my hands out to stop the fall and landed on my bumper. I had the motor mount bolt in my hand. Luckily the scratches can be buffed out.
The second worst part was the heat. It was about 90* sunday and extremely humid.
The worst part about it was a tripped over the floor jack and put my hands out to stop the fall and landed on my bumper. I had the motor mount bolt in my hand. Luckily the scratches can be buffed out.
The second worst part was the heat. It was about 90* sunday and extremely humid.
#266
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
#267
Instructor
Just a update on my 03 auto....I have about 1500 miles on my mounts and no problems what so ever. Its hot in Texas at the moment and the vibrations on the cabin have decreased a bit with the A/C on. They still feel strong and I am completely happy spending the $66.00 for the 2 pounds of poly. I have the side and front done and haven't done the rear yet but should be able to soon when Kevin (distortedolskool's) comes back in town.
I would highly recommend buying the good stuff and doing it right the first time.
I would highly recommend buying the good stuff and doing it right the first time.
#270
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Just an update on mine as well. Ive put alittle more than 1k miles on the rear mount (and more than 3k on the others). With the A/C off the car is near stock. There is a slight bit of vibrations, not much, but the things in my center console rattle. When the A/C is on though the vibrations get much more pronounced. The grill will rattle. It is loud. Once you start driving though its back to normal.
Overall I love this mod. I have yet to reinstall the rear torque damper, as I lost one of the bolts somehow. Hopefully I can get it back in sometime this week before my roadtrip next weekend.
Overall I love this mod. I have yet to reinstall the rear torque damper, as I lost one of the bolts somehow. Hopefully I can get it back in sometime this week before my roadtrip next weekend.
#273
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
If I had to venture a guess Id say yes. I highly doubt the bolt locations on the block are different between the two.
#274
Your Garage
iTrader: (22)
i'd make the same assumption but these two diagrams are making me wonder
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal
looks like the auto has two bolts and the mt has 4?
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal
looks like the auto has two bolts and the mt has 4?
#276
My front mount needs replaced but I don't want to bother with the rear if it requires a lift. Is it ok to poly fill the front and side and replace those? I assume it's fairly easy..
#278
Lead Footed
In short, stabilize the front and side and the rears will hold up. Since your rear is ruptured, you can simply inject some poly into it and you'll be fine . . until we finally get some quality after market mounts or if you can just run poly modded OEM and it sounds like those are holding up as well.
Ruf
#280
Lead Footed
Ruf