Custom Poly Engine Mounts
12-04-2008, 06:26 PM
#1
Custom Poly Engine Mounts
goodbye innovative!
The UPS man just dropped off my next idea to resolve this problem. i have seen Jeremy on here use roofing poly caulk and have seen numerous DIYs on using 3m window weld caulk to fill the stock mounts. i was finally able to locate some actual 2 part urethane for my own custom mounts. i even found a few people on websites that have done this on motorcycles and a few different cars.
i have trimmed out 90% of the stock rubber mount guts and drained the fluid. i hope to try this out this weekend if my new rear mount comes in. if all goes well we may have our own custom mounts that retain all stock mounting angles and fit perfectly!
now for some concerns...
it pours in as a thick liquid. in order to eliminate, or greatly reduce the chance for air i plan on using a special caulk gun to inject the mold. this will allow me to fill the gun and use a tip to inject the poly into the bottom of the mold. This will fill the mold from the bottom and reduce the chance of trapped air.
how much?
$38 shipped. i will find out how much this will do. the info says it is 5"x5" c.i. worth. i will post a thread once i pour them up and cure for a week. i am waiting on a new rear mount since i sent my original one to our lovely friends at innovative.
it's worth a guinea pig test.
The UPS man just dropped off my next idea to resolve this problem. i have seen Jeremy on here use roofing poly caulk and have seen numerous DIYs on using 3m window weld caulk to fill the stock mounts. i was finally able to locate some actual 2 part urethane for my own custom mounts. i even found a few people on websites that have done this on motorcycles and a few different cars.
i have trimmed out 90% of the stock rubber mount guts and drained the fluid. i hope to try this out this weekend if my new rear mount comes in. if all goes well we may have our own custom mounts that retain all stock mounting angles and fit perfectly!
now for some concerns...
how much?
$38 shipped. i will find out how much this will do. the info says it is 5"x5" c.i. worth. i will post a thread once i pour them up and cure for a week. i am waiting on a new rear mount since i sent my original one to our lovely friends at innovative.
it's worth a guinea pig test.
12-04-2008, 08:20 PM
#4
as for the front "piston style" mount i plan on filling under the top plate. it will fill in like a pancake between the mount top plate and reduce the amount of flex it has. the vacuum control will remain intact.
i have all the mounts now and should be starting this weekend.
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12-05-2008, 08:11 AM
#9
nice project... i was going to try this but i didn't feel like fooling with mixing stuff. i always hated mixing epoxy and making a mess. i believe 60A is what innovative uses for their polyurethane hardness. i'm a little curious... you said it comes out like a liquid. the roofing urethane i used was like caulk so i could easily goop it into place... but if it's going to be more like the texture of paint, how do you plan to get it to stay into place?
12-05-2008, 01:02 PM
#12
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I did mine with window weld and didn't remove any parts of the original mount. You just fill in all the places where the mount flexes. And I have the lines hooked up. I get a slight vibration at idle but nothing that annoys me.
12-08-2008, 06:04 PM
#20
now just for some cure time. there are almost no bubbles in this stuff, note the microscopic ones in the first pic. very very solid feel. i filled the side mount with np1 sealant at first, this is comparable to window weld and the roofing sealant. This poly created a much stiffer mount as compared with the caulking. overall result so far 
The flat spot is where i filled the mount from. should not create any issues.
The flat spot is where i filled the mount from. should not create any issues.
12-11-2008, 12:37 PM
#23
they have stiffened up a lot in the past 4 days. i twisted on them and the poly seems to have adhered to the center pin and rubber very well. i got my 2nd batch of poly in last night and will pour the side mount tonight. i plan on trying to install these saturday, except for the side. i can't wait to light those tires up and see if the front hops.
12-11-2008, 01:23 PM
#24
they have stiffened up a lot in the past 4 days. i twisted on them and the poly seems to have adhered to the center pin and rubber very well. i got my 2nd batch of poly in last night and will pour the side mount tonight. i plan on trying to install these saturday, except for the side. i can't wait to light those tires up and see if the front hops.
my bitch wheel hops on a 2k launch lmao.
12-14-2008, 06:31 PM
#27
trouble. the engine mount bracket on the engine is about 1/32" to close together. all i can figure is that the innovative mount pin was somewhat smaller and bent the bracket when i tightened it down. anyone else run into this when reinstalling the rear stock six speed mount? i tried hitting it with a breaker bar and hammer to no avail. tomorrow i'm going to get a bigger hammer and bar. if that fails i will be forced to grind the stock mount pin down some.
12-14-2008, 08:56 PM
#28
MP90 uninstalled
Man, that is rediclous! Im not suprised one bit the bracket bent. I addressed this issue as one of many in the innovative thread. My bushing were collapsed also. They have realy opened themselves to some liability. If i were them i would be recalling the mounts. What a failure on so many levels. Have you put your new mounts in yet?
12-14-2008, 10:12 PM
#30
i have the rear inside the bay but not in yet due to the bracket issue. my left hand is in a massive cast so it took a lot longer to remove the strut bar and get the mounts in and out. i am going tomorrow to Oreilly to see if they have a kind of spreader. i would like to bend it back before shaving the OEM pin. the front and side mounts are a piece of cake. i hope to have the rear in tomorrow night.
12-14-2008, 10:46 PM
#31
Three Wheelin'
Thats some shit right there. I'm glad I did not get them last moth. I called and talked to those guys and was going to get them. Now I'm just getting OEM for now. Tired of the engine rocking back everytime I take off!
Oh and bravo for all your work, especially with a cast on!
Last edited by CH46ESeaKnight; 12-14-2008 at 10:51 PM.
12-15-2008, 07:50 PM
#36
ok i came up with a way to spread the mount bracket if any one else has this issue. just take the pin from your innovative mount and duct tape a nickel to one side. next pull the rear engine damper out or loosen the bottom to get it to the side. this allows you to screw in the center pen from the drivers side, basically backwards. now use the innovative pin with nickel as a spacer and tighten the bolt down. this pushes the passenger side of the engine mount bracket out. now you have a perfect fit!
12-15-2008, 10:13 PM
#39
drum roll.......
with only the rear mount replaced i have MUCH less vibrations at idle. when i turn the AC you have to try to feel the increase in vibration. with the innovative rear you just turn the AC on and you could here the vibrations. no street test yet as tomorrow i will do the front and side.
*side note: i took out the rear damper due to having to spread the bracket apart and have not put it back in. i was nailing the motor and she didn't move at all, so that raised a question. do i even need the dampers with the stiffer mounts? i will probably put it back in just cuz.
with only the rear mount replaced i have MUCH less vibrations at idle. when i turn the AC you have to try to feel the increase in vibration. with the innovative rear you just turn the AC on and you could here the vibrations. no street test yet as tomorrow i will do the front and side.
*side note: i took out the rear damper due to having to spread the bracket apart and have not put it back in. i was nailing the motor and she didn't move at all, so that raised a question. do i even need the dampers with the stiffer mounts? i will probably put it back in just cuz.
Last edited by distortedolskool; 12-15-2008 at 10:16 PM.
12-15-2008, 10:57 PM
#40
MP90 uninstalled
It doesnt do jack anyway. I would leave it out. If your new mounts are doing what you want them to do the factory dampers wont do shit anyway. The stock dampers are bandaids for the factory mounts and we all know the factory setup does not do jack for wheel hop.