Looks like I may have to do my own installation; some of you stated that you have used the method of wedging the breaker bar and then cranking the engine with the starter to free the bolt.

Please confirm that the engine turns in the right direction before I do something silly!! Help!

 

point the breaker bar to the front of the car and you'll be fine.

 

There you are- so you did this yourself? To a CL?? Did you hold your breath?

Thanks for the response.

 

why don't you take it to a shop have them loosen the crank bolt and then tighten it back on, its not that hard, then when you get home its a lot easier to take it off, usually its the rust and everything that hold its realy tight, i would never do the starter thing, no way bad thigns happen if the crank bolt breaks in the crank snout, you have to drill and tap it out, not a fun thing and its a really tought bolt but no way. you can go a reant a 115 volt air comressor and a impact gun and just use it that way, its much safter and will not cost a ton of money. also you can run the starter remember that even a motor with high comression the torque that needs to be startes usually never goes past 350-400ft/lbs but on some of these crank bolts you need guns that can produce at least 600 and up ft-lbs of torque.

 

No air gun will get that bolt off. None. GO to a shop and they will use a breaker bar as thats the only way to ge the torque needed.

And the starter thing works fine. Plenty of guys do it over on the V6P.com and haven't had a problem.

And yes I did this, but it was on a TL, same difference.

 

bull crap, i have done it may times why would an air gun not take it off, maybe they had a crappy air gun, that bolt is torqued to 181 ft/lbs thats not that much, hell i can take off the cv shaft nuts with a gun and those are torqued to the same specs. you guys can do what you want to your cars but i would never do anything so stupid. your average impact gun can produce at least 500lbs of reverse torque, the one i have makes 700, so i can take out any bolt and even bust them if i want. its also got a initial torque of 1000lbs

 

Because people have tried plenty of times. DO some research before you open your trap. If no one can get them off with an air gun, what makes you so special that it will come off for you? THis isn't a fucking Civic, our engines are different. THey crank rotates clockwise so it tightens the bolt everytime it spins.

Read the other thread he started, and you'll see everyone who went to a shop saw the guy use a breaker bar.

 

lets see what makes me different ohh i know because i have done it before , i'm a mechanic by trade what do you do?, i have taken the crank pully off many times before doing the timing belts, and it came off just fine for me.

 

also i didn't say you can't use a breaker bar i even have the honda part numbers for the tools if you want, you need tools 07jab-001020A, 07mab-py3010a and 07jaa-001020a. i'm just saying i took it off with an impact gun, thats all.

 

i did it

 

Impact gun or Starter method?

 

starter

 

The air gun I was using wasn't strong enough so I took it to Tuffy's where my buddy knows the manager pretty well. Their gun took the crank pulley bolt off in a few seconds. They put it back on snug, I drove back keeping the RPMs low and I was able to take it off with the other air gun.

Air guns can take it off; it just has to be strong enough.

 

Couple more questions-

I see the power steering tensioner at the top; where is the bolt for the serpentine belt- on the bottom??

What anti-seize compound do you recommend?

Do I need to use a pulley remover once the bolt is off??

I will probably do this Sunday afternoon.

 

the bigger serpentine belt uses a spring tensiner that is right in front of the alternator.

for antisize use a good brand nothing too cheap.

i have never used a pully puller i just wiggle them off.

 

Can I loosen the spring tensioner from below or is that unnecessary?

 

Oh, yeah, I forgot- where is the fuel pump fuse?? I need to disable the engine when I crank the starter.

 

if i remember right i did it form up top, for the fuse take out the #1 and #13 fuses in the drivers under-dash fuse box, then try to start make sure to check that it will not start before you hook on your breaker bar just incase it does.

 

Help-

The car is up on Jacks, I am ready to remove the crank pulley, but I can't find how to remove or loosen the larger belt- I see no adjustment for the spring tensioner- need some advise fast!!!! All you guys out there, please advise or send me a DIY link.

Thanks in advance-

 

you do not need to remove the fuse. just crank it, dont go all the way on the ignition. if you are worried about the engine starting, then take the fuse out. otherwise, you can just crank it but not start it. im sure if you are attempting to do this install that you can crank it with it starting!

 

A piece of advice for those trying this- use a heavy duty socket. I split a Craaftsman 3/4" hex, 1/2" drive wide open.

Will have to button it all back up and try another day after shopping for an impact version.

 

also try using a metric stocket, it i remember right that bolt is metric.

 

should be 19mm

 

I bought a set which has both. Actually, they are only 0.05mm apart, so either should work fine as long as they are not the garden variety socket set, but HEAVY duty.

I'm still debating whether to do this myself again, or have it done later in the week. I'm having serious aurthor-itis problems with my hands this week (you young guys don't have this PITA yet).

 

i have done everything on my car myself except this... i just kept wondering if i could do it correct.... i finally came to the relization that $100 and 1/2hour was worth it just to know that i will have someone else to blaim if it breaks.

 

The other concern I have is how to hold the new aluminum pulley to tighten it; I have a chain wrench that would fit but i'm afraid it might ding up the belt grooves in the process.

I can't run the starter backwards.

I looked for a good strap wrench, but everything had plastic handles.

 

you can try puting the car close to the ground, as in the tires touching the ground and leaving it in park, then you can torque it because the trans holds the crank from moving.

 

I appreciate the input, but I'm not sure that makes any sense; if Park locks the crank, how do you start the engine in Park? I think Park locks the transaxle only.

I did find a great little strap wrench specifically for auto pulley work at Harbor Freight Tools; $10, it's metal, and actually designed for V-pulleys, but should still work for our cars. It might be really useful for those of you changing out alternator and water pump pulleys.

 

yeah i for some reason i kept thinking axle nut sorry, anyway yeah try the strap wrench, but this is when a impact gun come in handy you know, you hit it as hard as it will go on there and thats its, or you can shove a big screw driver in the flexplate teeth that shoul be be enough to hold it.