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first race this past weekend at the Ridge Motorsports park...had a complete clutch failure day 1 after about 2.5 hours...set fast time for the day (70 cars) by over a second....car is an absolute rocket...many were caught totally off guard (including myself)...did a clutch job for day 2...all is good no but had a little contact day 2 and it hurt our rear suspension...need to get it up in the air....biggest issue....brakes...while they worked perfectly we warped 2 sets of rotors in about 15 minute...need to figure out a solution...while it didn't slow us down it was very uncomfortable.
is it stock brake calipers? What about some DIY brake venting?
stock calipers...I have some 2" ducting to offer some cooling ...the pads we use are meant for the abuse but the rotors are not liking it....I wonder if the legend calipers would help anything
I noticed that a forum member retrofitted 3g tl brembo knuckles...I have a complete standing car here with all of the parts...just worried about suspension geometry...I can also deal with rl calipers...just not sure where to go right now
Legend calipers are dual piston at least and the cheapest option.
I've also heard the 3rd gen TL will fit if you swap knuckles. I don't think there's any diy info on that though.
If you have a TL there, might as well try that. RL calipers can't be much of an improvement over the TL bbk.
I have a knuckle from each car on the bench...going to do some measuring....really the only problem is the offset of the caliper mounting ears because of the thickness of the brembo aluminum housing...bolt spread is the same...holes need to be drilled out a bit...might just need to find a rotor with a different offset.
Been a while for an update...had a race a couple weeks ago at Portland international Raceway...7 hour plus 8 hour...day 1... lasted 3 hours before brakes were shaking so bad that suspension bolts rattled loose...78 cars and we were in the lead at the time we decided to call it a day... changed left axle as it was a bit clunky and new rotors all around for day 2...and then it was tequila time...day 2...5 hours in and new rotors were already so bad that after lower ball joint packed it in we decided it wasn't the CLs weekend...we were 2nd at the time...car has got what it takes...front brakes are our Achilles heel for sure....new brakes on the go for next race in September...13" 350z rotors and rl caliper...if this doesn't help i dont know what to do
had little 2" before....didn't help but didn't hurt...have some 3" ducting in now...hard to route it anywhere effective without it being in a spot that could be torn off easily.
The RL brakes should 100% solve your problem. Happy to hear the CL was in leading positions both races- really awesome.
I know rears are only responsible for about 30% of braking, but for added insurance there's an adapter (check fastbrakes) that allows you to run the bigger Honda Pilot rear rotors for more protection against warping, even though it still retains the stock single piston caliper. Good luck!
thanks for that...looks like they only offer it up with a set of rotors on their site...going to go with the front set-up for now and if needed I will see if they will just sell the brackets and I will supply my own blanks
The RL brakes should 100% solve your problem. Happy to hear the CL was in leading positions both races- really awesome.
I know rears are only responsible for about 30% of braking, but for added insurance there's an adapter (check fastbrakes) that allows you to run the bigger Honda Pilot rear rotors for more protection against warping, even though it still retains the stock single piston caliper. Good luck!
Rear upgrade is really not necessary. I really like how my stoptech trophy BBK has 2 piece rotors with great air circulation and calipers also have 4 naca duct type openings in bridge for air circulation. Warping rear rotors should not be happening, only front with stock setup.
I think it is more about modulation now....using stock components (master cyl,prop valve), with the fronts using a larger rotor=less full revolutions to stop the wheel....this is how my mind is figuring it anyway....take the stock 11.5" rotor and run a line around the middle of the braking surface...now straighten that line and measure it...do the same for the 13"...the line will be longer...if it takes 100 wheel revolutions to stop the small brakes...say the brake circumfrence is 20"....2000" of brake rotor surface required...if the 13" rotor has a circ. of 22"-it only requires 91 revolutions to stop-but the rear is still requiring the same as before so it is either being overworked in the back to stop at the same distance or-and more likely, they just won't be grabbing as hard as the fronts which will now be doing a larger % of the work unless we really stab them and potential for lock up is too great...flat spots suck in an endurance race....increase REAR rotor size in similar proportion to the front and it should help equalize the revolutions and therefore keep the balance similar to stock....hopefully
sounds like garbage but the more I thought about it the more sense it made
pilot rotors on....lots of trial and error building my own brackets...e-brake is a thing of the past...about 20lb of excess crap pulled off since it no longer functions anyway
well after my little racing incident a couple months back...the heart of the CL-s6 is now beating in an accord coupe...next race- Jan. 2018 at Laguna Seca
nice work! maybe even lighter now. Are you in the Canadian Forces? Noticed the badge.
Canadian-yes....but not in the forces....it was a 'salute to service' race...the 4 US branches and we were the Canadian rep (we volunteered)...highest placing force rep car had a donation sent to their represented branch in their name....we didn't win
This 03 mt6 was totaled so we are swapping it all into a good 03 auto. I love that you put all your Info on here. It's our 2nd build too. We raced a 87 legend for 3 years. Hwdracing
Nice!!...you definitely won't lack for straight line power...these thing are fast....getting it to turn will take a little more effort...big brakes are a must unless you want to swap out rotors every 2nd pit stop...the swap value into the accord wouldn't fit the current chump values - ec only but we are running with Lucky Dog now...nothing else running in the pacific northwest.
We are running Laguna Seca next weekend and with everything swapped the accord 'feels' smaller (more 'tossable')...I would recommend losing the front sway bar- CL is too pushy mid corner-this should help...any questions don't hesitate to ask.
Curtis
Thanks man. Honestly it's so much like our G1 legend underneath. Only difference is a 5 link rear instead of 3 link. The Black CL was trashed but it had Stagg struts, Vogtland springs, all new ball joints,adjustable camber kit, tie rods inner & outer, new axles & a brand new stock clutch pp Fw ,water pump & timing belt All these parts put on at 198k .parts had only 2200 miles when it was wrecked. So i got a steal dude. It was a nice road car. I knew all those parts would be needed anyways so I got really lucky. My Silver body car has a ok shell but during the strip down I discovered it was a drug running car. Rear hidden compartments. Only way they would unlock was to press the heated seat button. The car has a great funny story to tell other teams. I' putting in the new motor and mt6 in th e auto body. Do I need to swap the Ecu , the TCM, & the wiring harness? Any short list of must do's would be helpful. And as for the Bas delete I need to know which proportion valve to buy. 4342101376. Txt me if your ok with it. Help each other out. The guys on the Legend FB forum are like family, hope this group can be the same.
good start for the new build at Laguna Seca with Lucky Dog Racing...lost the tranny day 2...thinking we lost a couple teeth of the ring gear when the wheels caught traction after 200+ trips over the corkscrew...very happy with the 'out of the box' results
it's California...Miataville...probably 10 miatas and 8 rx-7s...a handful of fox body mustangs...a dozen BMWs (e30 and e36) and a few other oddities..swapped fiero, old monza with a small block, a couple eg civics