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I thought the new headers would weight considerably less. Does wrap weigh a lot? You should see 20-25whp especially once you do the rest of the exhaust as you mentioned.
I thought the new headers would weight considerably less. Does wrap weigh a lot? You should see 20-25whp especially once you do the rest of the exhaust as you mentioned.
maybe 2 pounds ...but I doubt it is even that much...maybe that states to a 'reasonable' material quality
My Comptech and custom headers are decent amount lighter than the cast iron oem ones. For just J-Pipe alone, OEM is 13 lbs, Comptech is 8.5, custom is even lighter. More weight from header manifolds and heat shields. Removing heavy flanges and replacing with something like V-Bands helps. The OEM cat is really heavy also. No reason to have a split exhaust with 2 mufflers besides looks.
Cast iron is definately heavier than thin Gauge steel.
For rear header manifold, I removed studs and use bolts instead. Seems to help some.
Last edited by brian6speed; 03-22-2016 at 02:16 PM.
My Comptech and custom headers are decent amount lighter than the cast iron oem ones. For just J-Pipe alone, OEM is 13 lbs, Comptech is 8.5, custom is even lighter. More weight from header manifolds and heat shields. Removing heavy flanges and replacing with something like V-Bands helps. The OEM cat is really heavy also. No reason to have a split exhaust with 2 mufflers besides looks.
Cast iron is definately heavier than thin Gauge steel.
For rear header manifold, I removed studs and use bolts instead. Seems to help some.
won't be using a cat....single pipe with a couple resonators and a downturn right behind the fuel tank...keeps the exhaust note under the car and dissipates instead of allowing one of the pesky sound guns to hit you for a violation at certain tracks (Laguna is brutal for this)
cadillac wheels....who'd a thunk it? 17x8...same as the tl wheels....same bolt pattern (obviously)...not hubcentric but neither are the wheels I run on my civic-no issue....offset is off by a couple mm...no interference with anything....but the best part...stock tl wheels-25ish pounds...these caddy wheels barely 20lb...20.15 to be exact....it is a budget build with parts I have at my autowrecker...seems like a win to me!
yup...trunk is just a skin...a pound of pins more than offset the inner skin plus the hinges plus the springs.
and emblem was gone when I got the car oh well...less weight
Hmm. I found a used VIS Carbon fiber trunk Painted white selling for 150 shipped. Waiting for seller to message me back. Might pick it up as a spare trunk. Was thinking of getting a used oem trunk from junk yard instead of welding and repainting oem spoiler holes.
Wonder how gutting or swiss cheesing fiberglass skeleton underneath would affect panel. Probably not worth messing with.
Think I'll repaint it silver, fill in emblem holes, and add Sarona lip spoiler.
Do you know the year and model cadillac those wheels are from? I'm looking for a cheap set of wheels to use for autox.
2005-07 cts and sts....lots of options on these shitboxes...years are 8 inch...fronts are 7.5....so you need a couple donor cars....do not get 2008 and newer cts wheels...they are light and 17x8 but 5x120 bolt circle
did a little work today...replaced motor mounts with home-made solid mounts...front mount was a complete reconstruction...rear and side just needed some plate welded in...new front mount only weighs 2.1lb ...as you vcan see fron the stock mount weight I managed to shed a few more pounds...plate added less than 1/2 pound to the other mounts and since everything is nice and solid there is no need to put the torque dampeners and brackets back in...even allows more room to work without all that crap under the hood.
ordered seat mount bracket from Planted...ordered for accord coupe...should fit....if not I will make it work...fire suppression system also in transit...seat belts and window net came in last week...just about time to start caging this thing!
Last edited by curtwill; 04-02-2016 at 06:34 PM.
Reason: so
cut out a little more tin today....found a little sound deadener to remove...another 3.5lb....seems every time I plug in the recip saw I get another couple pound out of it
battery hold down in place...courtesy of the nissan sentra that 'donated' the radiator
re-purposed the old battery hold down bar to make a support bracket for the abs-delete prop valve
calling it a day...to Brian's question...I will be leaving one fan in...carved out the shroud where the 2nd fan was to allows as much air as possible to go through...I want to weigh it prior to roll cage and after to see the difference...corner weight?...I might give it a shot...didn't do it on the civic and since there is almost 100lb difference between my co-driver and myself we might try to find a happy middle ground.
cadillac wheels....who'd a thunk it? 17x8...same as the tl wheels....same bolt pattern (obviously)...not hubcentric but neither are the wheels I run on my civic-no issue....offset is off by a couple mm...no interference with anything....but the best part...stock tl wheels-25ish pounds...these caddy wheels barely 20lb...20.15 to be exact....it is a budget build with parts I have at my autowrecker...seems like a win to me!
just did the actual wheel/tire weights for the caddy 17x8 and the tl 17x8....with 235/45r17 hankook rs3....caddy-44.6lb..tl-48.5....almost 4lb per wheel of rotating mass gone...just like that.
Corner weighing is definitely worth it, but not sure with that weight difference. How do you use same seat, any insert?
Are you removing those 2 braces by trunk/back seat area? Will you weld a bar between shock towers. Are you gonna have cage go through firewall and connect to front shock towers(not sure if there is room)?
Can you cut up the floor at all in this racing series? Cutting out that trunk spare tire section and welding in a raised flat piece of sheet metal would give a lot more room under car for exhaust and aero.
I would recommend atleast cutting part of the rear bumper off to reduce drag.
What about venting rear windshield or trunk area to reduce pressure and drag in cabin?
Sorry if all the questions are annoying.
Last edited by brian6speed; 04-06-2016 at 06:47 PM.
Corner weighing is definitely worth it, but not sure with that weight difference. How do you use same seat, any insert?
Are you removing those 2 braces by trunk/back seat area? Will you weld a bar between shock towers. Are you gonna have cage go through firewall and connect to front shock towers(not sure if there is room)?
Can you cut up the floor at all in this racing series? Cutting out that trunk spare tire section and welding in a raised flat piece of sheet metal would give a lot more room under car for exhaust and aero.
I would recommend atleast cutting part of the rear bumper off to reduce drag.
What about venting rear windshield or trunk area to reduce pressure and drag in cabin?
Sorry if all the questions are annoying.
questions are good....lets me review things I may have missed and also gives me new ideas....we both fit in the same seat...a bit snug for me, a bit loose on him...harness holds us in tight and is on sliders-he moves it forward a couple inches during driver changes.
no plans to wels a brace between the shock towers...factory parcel tray section that I left in si very close to the top of the rear towers and I thing it would serve the same purpose...cage will not go forward of firewall but will be tagged into winshield pillars and b-pillars and roof for a bit of added stiffness.
the rear cover fits up pretty nicely to the trunk floot...was going to screw it to the floor so it doesn't sag down...on my civic I used a 2" hole saw and swiss cheesed the lower part of the cover. I want this car to look reasonably good so I may just put a cpouple holes in the corners bhind the rear wheels to let trapped air escape...we also bow out our front fenders and cut the small lip in front of the door away to let air pass right therough instead of being trapped under the fenders...helps brake cooling as well (we will be ducting them as well)
the heavy plate braces under the rear seat are long gone and we used the same 2 inch hole saw on the rear lexan of the civic to allow airflow.so we will probably do the same to the rar lexan of the cl and the end panel behind the bumper cover...not there yet....cage goes in before lexan.
I'm interested to see what you mean by cutting small lip on the door away. Can't visualize it atm.
Trying to think of the best way to vent fenders for street driven car. Need fenderwell trim to block rocks in front, otherwise bumper fills up with rocks. Need trim on the rear otherwise rocks will be on the side skirt sills and be in the way of door opening/closing. Actually had a ding on inside door metal from passenger closing door with rock in the way.
What about blocking that gap from fender to engine bay so high pressure air in the wheel well doesn't escape into engine bay? Not sure if that is necessary or will help, especially with my vent crazy hood.
I was referring to bracing behind back seats that goes to rear deck area by trunk pass through, not heavy cross members. Not sure if we mean different things. Might try removing mine or Swiss cheesing.
Last edited by brian6speed; 04-07-2016 at 11:31 AM.
the cl has much less of a lip on the rear edge of the fender than the civic does....but i will still shave it out and bow out the rear of the fender similar to the way it is in this picture (haven't removed lip yet)...allows high pressure in wheel well to escape and pass accross brakes
also just received seat brace for the race seat....bought it from 425 Motorsport in Bellevue Wa..product is made by a company called 'Planted'...rally nice quality.....ordered for a 98-02 accord coupe as they do not list for a CL....had a hunch it would fit....and it is a perfect fit....now the race seat will bolt directly to it with no fuss,no muss.
seat bolted in...has to come back out for the cage but at least I can throw a permit on it and get it to the exhaust shop....23.5lb for seat with brackets,sparco slider and planted seat base
good to hear on the seat bracket! I've been wanting to do lighter seats for a while but didn't want to have a custom bracket made!
I have been running a seat bracket from 98-02 Accord for 2-3 years now.
I see what you mean now about fender. If my car was track only, I'd cut the corner of body behind front wheel for better airflow. Then cut a section of the fender and bend it in.
YEP...quite ballsy...I was impressed...has given me renewed fire for the CL build...had to motor swap the current race car for a tossed rod, had a week in Mexico in there...picked this thing up and had to "re-civilize" it ...it was slammed down with 19s on it...not my thing...a few more things to do on the TL to get it where I want it and then it is back to full bore on the CL.
battery relocate almost done...just need to tag the battery tray into the trunk a little more sturdily...46lb off the very front of the car when you include the brackets...chopped out the coolant bottle bracket and re-attatched it...a little extra weight on the back (and centered) works better for me....oil and trans fluid change tonight then off to the exhaust shop next week.
loooooooong time since last post....finally back on this project after many months...cage is now in....finally!!!!.....numbers going on this week....lexan, fire supression system and some wiring clean-up and we are ready for our first event of this year....The Ridge Motorsports park in Shelton, WA. April 28-29.
koni yellows with h&r race springs....spc upper ball joints on the front for a little extra front camber....thother than that we will be stock at least until we get it on track to find out what will be needed
which type of rear arm(s) do you prefer for rear adjustment (not brands per se) ...single upper adjustable or the dual lower adjusatables?
That is a good question. I actually have all 6 arms adjustable, which gives more flexibility and made all bushings pillowball. Feel hardrace ball joints are better also.
If I just purchased one option, it would probably be lower for easier access. I also prefer removing toe bolt and adjusting toe on lower arms. Less likely to shift/change settings under load or when hitting pot holes.
Last edited by brian6speed; 03-14-2017 at 06:47 AM.
getting closer by the day...lexan to go in and radio system still to be installed.
also received rear upper adjustable arms from rock auto...ordered the ac delco brand (hoping for better than e-bay quality) and this is what came in the box with a delco sticker on it...win-win...I think the pair was around $100
03-22-2016, 08:31 AM
oh well...less weight 
