Hey guys... just a quickie... when I change out my pads and rotors, do I also need to flush the brake fluid and replace?

 

no it's not necessary. but if you do a fair amount of spirited driving, then i recommend moving to syn brake fluid to complete the match

 

It's not necessary, but while your doing the rotor/pad replacement, why not do brake fluids?

 

I would say definitely flush. Honda brake systems aren't the cleanest in the world.

 

Btw... while I'm on the topic of brakes, do SS lines have other benefits besides better pedal feel and increased corrosion resistance? I'm still on the fence on whether or not I should switch them out too...

 

yes, they don't burst like normal ones do.

same reason you should have SS lines on your washer and dishwasher at home.

 

Maybe better pedal feel, but I'm not so sure about the corrosion resistance. If you change them make sure you get DOT approved ones. From my experience on other vehicles I have not seen any advantage over stock hoses. Your results may vary ...

 

Been running my Goodridge SS brake lines for a few years now. For the most part, pedal feel is somewhat increase and they supposedly last longer than conventional ones, but don't expect to go from good stopping power to great. That occurs where the pad meets the rotor.

 

I should have stainless steel lines on my wife?

 

Heh... if we know what's good for us, we'll just keep that comment amongst us, eh?

 

So it's something that's "nice to have" as opposed to "necessary" with regards to improving my braking system... I figured I'd change them out if I had a few bucks to burn unless there were some substantial gains to be made. Many thanks, buddy

OK... last question while I have all the brake "enthusiasts" around (promise!)... torn between Hawk HPS and Ceramics... also considering Posi Quiets. I'm sure all 3 of them will be significant improvements over the OEMs, but noise and dust are concerns of mine. I've read a TON of reviews for the HPS on Tire Rack, and it seems that most people say the brake dust is no worse than stock pads, with a negligible increase in noise. However, on this board, many blokes said the Ceramics were a better match for the TSX. On other car forums, members swear by the Posi Quiets. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. I'm hoping to order everything in the next day or so.

 

at my dealership we use posi brakes if its a used car less come backs for noise,squeeling etc also too brake fluid usually i recommended them 3 years or 30-40k depending on driving conditions

 

I would also change the fluid. Take a turkey baster and drain as much as possible from the master cyclinder. Refill with synthic brake fluid and bleed all four brakes. Make sure to check the fluid level and refill if it if gets to low while bleeding the brakes.

 

Are you doin this by yourself or a shop doing it for you? If you are taking it to a shop then they should do it for free.

I replaced my rotors/pads on monday and they did it for free. I also flushed/replaced power steering wheel fluid and TM fluid for extra $50.

 

Caution: do not use synthic (sic) - that should be synthetic - brake fluid; use plain old DOT 3 from Honda.

 

Interesting... why do you say to use the Honda stuff instead of synthetic? It seems like mostly everyone is recommending synth... I don't have much experience w/ getting brake work done, so I'm curious...

My appt. at the shop will probably be sometime next week, so before I go out and grab some fluid...

Btw, any ideas how much fluid I'll need to buy?

 

On a side note... R1 rotors and Hawk HPS on the way... now I just need to figure out what kind and how much fluid I should pick up...

Passing on the lines for now...

 

i believe it's 3 quarts ... do a search there is definitive info out there

 

I used just under 2 pints (not quarts lol)

 

i meant 3 pints. thanx for the correction

 

2 pints might be enough, but if you want to flush out old fluid that you are going to need more than that.

 

OK, you caught me - you said synthetic, and I thought silicone. Sorry. Synthetic is OK as long as it's DOT 3 or DOT 4. My favorite is ATE Blue DOT 4 because it has a very high dry and wet boiling point suitable for high speed track use. If your vehicle is used for street driving only, any high-grade DOT 3 should be OK. Stay away from anything that
is labeled Fred's brake fluid - just kidding ...

 

ok so wat recommendations do u guys have for brake fluid? a dot 3 or a dot 4? and any good syntetic ones??

 

dot3 should more than suffice. motul 600 dot 4 might be overkill if you dont hit the track, but castrol dot 4 syn fluid is pretty good i hear

 

Hi All,


First of do i need to put all the four wheels on stands for bleeding the the brakes ?? When i put the front ones i brake pedal felt so tight . Is this normal ??

Also do i need to take the cap off (before bleeding starting the bleeding process ?? I guess as long as i don't get the air to get in thru the reservoir it should be fine..pls confirm)

What brake bleeder kit do you guys suggest..

Has any one used the below ( available at harbor freight )..

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92474

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92924

or am i better off getting a mityvac

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947058000P

pls suggest

Mars

 

Motul RBF600 is one of the best.

 

If your are going to bleed the entire system with new fluid, put the vehicle on four jack stands. You can leave the cap off while bleeding. I didn't use a bleeder. I attack a hose from the bleeder into a cup with some fluid already in it. I tell the second person to pump, and then hold on the brake pedal. I open the bleeder. Air and fluid gush out of the hose to the cup. I close the bleeder and tell the person to pump again. Do this a couple of times. There is an order to do this on the TSX. I don't remember which wheel first. If you don't have a second person, a long stick placed on the brakes and seat also works to hold the pedal in place while you bleed.

 

Get the MityVac, it makes life so much easier. I need to order a new one since the one I had sprouted legs or something. It's a very useful tool.

 

If u r lookin 2 do it cheap just suck out the old fluid out of the master, clean the master out if there is black residue. U can just crack open all 4 bleeders and just gravity bleed the system with the brake cap off. Keep an eye on the fluid and keep topping it off until u c new fluid commin out of all 4 wheels. If u do have some extra $$$ 2 spend then go with one of the pressure bleeders, they do work the best.