Today, I walk back to my car in the parking lot and I go to start it, but it doesn't fully start. The engine cranks, but does not go beyond that. I kept trying over and over, then I notice the immobilizer light flashing. So I flipped through the manual and it said that if this happens, the key isn't properly coded, or basically the car doesn't recognize the key and the fuel pump is disabled.

Thinking that it might just be my key acting up, I found a ride home and brought all my keys back to my car. Tried all of them and it was the same case, flashing immobilizer light. The thing is, all of my remotes work to unlock and lock the car, radio is fine and so is everything else except tat my car won't start.

Next step, I got my car towed to the dealership. Got it to the dealership right before their service department closed for the day. They tried to hook it up to the scanner, or what ever they use to diagnose problems, and said that they got a "communication error." I asked what that meant and he said that my ECU wasn't even communicating with their tool.

So they'll have to look more into it tomorrow. Hopefully the problem isn't too bad. What do you guys think may be the problem?

Quick Specs:
2004 TSX
6MT
133,xxx Miles
Hondata Reflash (2005)

Thanks in advance for any insight on my problem.

 

From a technical point of view, it may mean that there is no power going to the ECU. Maybe there's a bad connection from the power to the ECU...hmm.

 

WAG: The ECU has taken a dump, or the ECU and the immobilizer aren't communicating. I don't have the FSM yet, but I think there is a serial data link connecting the various modules on the vehicle and the problem could be there too.

 

Let's hope the dealer won't wipe out your hondata reflash during the troubleshooting process.

 

What should I do if that happens?

 

Good question - If the ECM has failed, the dealer will replace it with a new or rebuilt one that has the stock software. It's not likely the reflash will be wiped while troubleshooting.

Just to make you feel good: My 91 Corvette has its parameters burned into a plug-in EEPROM which you can swap into the new/rebuilt ECM so nothing is lost if you have a custom PROM. Newer technology ECMs have the memory chips wired in and accessible only with specific programmers which the DIY folks do not have access to. Honda/Acura has really clamped the lid on DIY access unlike GM, Ford and Chysler.
That's why you have to deal with Hondata ...

 

The TSX ECU doesn't have a removable EEPROM. If the dealer only needs to code the key/immobilizer portion on the ECU, the Hondata reflash will be fine. However, if the dealer tries to update the ECU with the newer version of software for troubleshooting, the Hondata reflash will be gone. Also, if the dealer replaces the ECU, the Hondata reflash is not transferred over to the replacement ECU.

 

If I end up losing my Hondata, do you think Hondata would perform the reflash for me again for free?

 

Businesses like to make profit, so I highly doubt it. However, they may offer you a discount.

 

That's what I said in an earlier post.

 

Perhaps inqure with them directly

 

Update: I got my car back today. I'm glad that it was nothing serious. It was just basically a fuse that burnt out preventing my ECU from recognizing my key.

 

Good news/bad news: Your vehicle is up and running////fuses don't "burn out", they blow because of an over-current condition - something made that happen and it will happen again.

 

Glad to hear that it was something simple. I was worried for a second

 

that's a lot of miles

 

Which fuse is able to partially disable an ECU?

 

What's a car for if it's not to be driven?

Yea, I just calculated my mileage, I average about 27,000 Miles per year with my 5th year of ownership coming up in June

 

Use a fuse with a higher rating amp

 

I'm not sure which specific one, but it was a fuse from the fuse box under the hood. The dealer gave me a couple of extra fuses, just in case. The fuse is blue in color, I don't know if that helps any in locating which specific fuse it was that burnt out.

 

dang man, how many times do you gas up a week?

 

Once a week nowadays, since I don't commute as much as I used to

 

Alright so I finally checked out which fuse it was that burnt out.

Fuse #8
Amps: 15A
Circuits Protected: FI ECU

Anyone have any thoughts as to what caused this circuit to short out?