It has been a while: I have had this problem for several months. I installed separate audio HU, amps, wiring and speakers @ 5 years ago; splicing into the OEM harness to the OEM HU. No problems for all those years. Recently, after several replaced/failed fuses; I disconnected the power to the audio system at the battery and replaced the 7.5A fuse once more. It blew immediately. I know I soldered where I could with the wiring. Does it sound to you guys; like it's a grounding issue?

 

Not quite sure what you mean by a "grounding issue", but it seems to me that your fuse blowing problem could only be an exposed wire (or connection) shorting out somewhere (basically a hot wire making contact with a grounding surface)(electricity 101). Could be a bitch to find depending on how much wiring you added and/or changed. I'm confused about you could disconnect the the power to the audio at the battery (I assume the aftermarket components) if you spliced into the OEM harness, but that doesn't (or shouldn't) matter. You've got power contacting a ground somewhere popping the fuse.

 

Yes, disconnecting the after-market gear at the battery. And everything you said confirms the fact; it could be a bitch to trace-down. I've examined the amp connections and when the weather improves, I'll work my way back to the dash. Thanks, Simba91102.

 

Fortunately for me, the 8/9 pin power cable from the power unit had separated from the HU–and I have tunes again.

 

Well, friends; since our last conversation–its doing it again! As before; it will work intermittenly; when driving–its fine. When shut-off, and turned on it is also fine–USUALLY. Then, not. Blown 7.5A accessory fuse. I thought it was an exposed (bare) live wire. So I 'shrink-tubed' ALL the unused wiring (oem). All my spliced wiring is soldered, shrink-tubed/wrapped in elec. tape. I re-routed the ground for my Clarion DRZ 9255 HU; to the Helms/Acura ground location on the left side of the front center console. Checking the AMPs at my SVR Audio Series battery shows over 18 Amps–running with all accessories on (except the blown fuse/HAVC console lighting and stereo)–and over 18 Amps with the car not running. Is this too high? Should it not be around 12.5 Amps, or so? This electrical problem DID start shortly after I installed, and charged the SVR battery–after purchasing it 2 YEARS earlier (Total at least 3 yrs-old). The OEM battery gave me no problems; I just thought, after 5 years; it was about time to 'switch-it-out'. Or, could it be the altenator? Or is my mult-meter 'screwy'?

 

You have a positive wire exposed and grounding some where. That is why the fuse keeps popping.

 

I know your probable cause(s) are spot-on. As others who have replied to my thread. But, is it not 'unusual' for the exposed positive wire grounding to occur sporadically?

 

I've taken several steps back-could be forward; doing some rewiring at the amp harness wires and adding both power & ground distribution blocks. No more blown #32 fuse. But I have both of my audison amps illuminated name/logo on top–blinking on briefly, then off and then on, again. From what I've read; its cause by a bad ground. And the amps are going into protection mode. My ground for the Amps is in the trunk; bare metal. And the HU ground, is a factory ground at the drivers-side of the console. I will pull the amps and check their individual fuses for posssible cause.

 

I'm in the process of checking all the points of connection on each of the Audison amps; power, ground, RCAs and speaker–and my Clarion HU.
This website:
http://www.bcae1.com
provides a number of troubleshooting procedures to isolate probable causes. I recommend this site for their detailed info. Just an FYI.

 

18 amps seems like a large load. With my TSX, I measured ~10A out the battery (but I don't recall which accessories were running). How much is going through the accessory path?

You could try the process of elimination. Monitor the current draw before and after each accessory is turned on/off. And this could be done with the amps as well. The amp remote turn on (tied to the accessory +12V I presume) shouldn't pull much current. Measure each of these.

This could help pinpoint where the excess load is occurring and then focus only on wires/connections/parts in that path.

Audison amps provide specs for normal current draw. You could measure +12V and remote current draw and make sure their within limits. With them going into a protection state, it may be an over or under voltage issue. If there is a large current traveling, then there will be some voltage loss through the power wire/connections and should be very small drop across ground.

Is there a voltage drop from various grounds to other grounds. This could indicate a poor connection and maybe the path drawing too much current.

Good luck! and keep us posted with your findings.

 

Well, from what I've read; with the speaker wire and RCAs disconnected with power to the amps on-from my HU, I should see the amp power-up. I don't see my power light on. And no blinking lights at all. Checked the remote wire, I have a multimeter reading of @6-8V. Checking the RCA shields on the amp (VRX 1.500) with my multimeter set to ohms (green-2000k) I get a reading of 002. No decimal increment indicated. Don't know what else to check. Opened up the guts to see, and, everything looks pristine; no smell, no soot, looks brand new from end to end.

 

Yes... It was a grounding issue. I hadn't fused (2) the new grounding block I added. Carlos at NVS Audio (authorized Audison dealer) in Elizabeth, NJ fixed me up. Simple solution but confounding to the novice in me.

 

Glad to hear it was an easy solution. Fuses are cheap! Enjoy your tunes...

 

I'm like the 'poster-boy' for the wrong way to wire my gear; I used the power antenna lead, at some point, for the remote turn-on lead–and couldn't play a CD. I didn't realize that is a no-no. All is really well, now. Next up is the Audison BitOne.1 or the Pioneer 99RS. I promise not to screw-up again!

 

Im having the same issue where the #32 fuse in the driver kick panel keeps blowing immediately after replacing it.. idk if its cause im powering an android HU with a dash cam and back up cam? its done this before where the radio shuts off and the shifter locks up so i have to manually unlock it and the parking brake sensor beeps whenever the car is in motion but it was every few weeks or so and i would just replace the fuse but this time its blowing every time i replace it.. any suggestions?