06 MT Problems Again - HELP
06 MT Problems Again - HELP
Since about 10k miles from purchase I have been experiencing a shudder in 2nd gear after the 1-2 shift for about 2 seconds. It does not occur when downshifting nor does it occur if you shift into 2nd and wait a couple seconds to hit the gas. It only occurs if shifting from 1st at rpm's less than 4k. The car has been to the dealership 3 times, once to replace the clutch master cylinder, once to replace the left axle and once to replace the right axle. It seems to fix the problem for a little while but then comes back. I am really at wits end at this point. Any idea what the problem could be? I think the dealership thinks I'm crazy at this point because I am there about every 6 months for the same issue.
At first they say they don't feel it, I have to then drive it with them and they notice it and begin to work on it. It is very evident when after the 1-2 shift on a slight incline.
I am afraid at this point if this isn't resolved before the warranty ends then I may get stuck with a huge repair bill, I would rather dump the car then do that (other than this I love the car). I currently have 28k.
At first they say they don't feel it, I have to then drive it with them and they notice it and begin to work on it. It is very evident when after the 1-2 shift on a slight incline.
I am afraid at this point if this isn't resolved before the warranty ends then I may get stuck with a huge repair bill, I would rather dump the car then do that (other than this I love the car). I currently have 28k.
The gap between 1st and 2nd is pretty big. If you're shifting at 4k from first you're dropping pretty low in the RPMs when you get to second. Probably well below where the torque starts. This isn't necessarily a bad thing but you will need to do some clutch feathering to get a smooth engagement. If you're shifting into second then basically dropping the clutch, you're going to get some shuddering as the relief springs in the clutch bounce back and forth due to the inability of the engine to keep them compressed (because of having no torque in that RPM range).
It sounds like a problem with your shifting technique from what I can tell. The TSX is a little different in feel due to the DBW throttle. It takes some getting used to. If you're coming from pretty much any non-Honda brand you need to adjust to the non-existence of low end torque. I find that Honda MTs require more attention with the left foot than most other cars.
It sounds like a problem with your shifting technique from what I can tell. The TSX is a little different in feel due to the DBW throttle. It takes some getting used to. If you're coming from pretty much any non-Honda brand you need to adjust to the non-existence of low end torque. I find that Honda MTs require more attention with the left foot than most other cars.
I have to agree its more technique then anything. Because you not experiencing this at any other time and it sounds like the engine is shuddering after you have gone through the syncros, it sounds like the engine is starved for fuel. Getting your timing right on these Hondas with the DBW is a PITA and it takes time. It could be the clutch disc. Try to slip it to do a minor resurfacing and see what happens. If you are still having issues and think your technique is great, I don't know what it could be. Good luck
Thanks for the advice so far. Are you telling me that you normally shift out of first higher than 4k RPMs?
I don't think it is technique, the dealer is recognizing the issue and replacing these parts. The tech clearly feels it when I ride in the passenger seat and he drives. I will change it up a little tonight though to see if that makes a difference. If not I am seriously going to have to think about the lemon law.
I don't think it is technique, the dealer is recognizing the issue and replacing these parts. The tech clearly feels it when I ride in the passenger seat and he drives. I will change it up a little tonight though to see if that makes a difference. If not I am seriously going to have to think about the lemon law.
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I shift out of first gear around 3500 and do it smoothly. If you're shifting at 4K and having problems, it's not just your technique, although that could have something to do with it. Shifting around 4K should drop your RPM to around 3K going from 1 to 2. You've got plenty of torque at 3K.
I normally shift at 3500rpms as well and while the shift itself is very clean the car shudders for a few seconds after the accelerator is pressed. I mentioned 4k because it does not seem to do it below that point.
I don't know anything about the inner workings of the transmission but I am hoping someone can give me some ideas because they obviously cannot figure it out.
I don't know anything about the inner workings of the transmission but I am hoping someone can give me some ideas because they obviously cannot figure it out.
try this, shift to 2nd if you feel the shudder take the engine speed up to 4500 rpm, then let it drop back down to under where you shifted in at (I'm going to assume 3k ). so let the rpms drop down to 2k rpms (1k under our assumed entry point).
then step on the gas and let it go up to 4500 rpms. does it studder anwhere in the range this time?
if it doesn't studder, it sounds like you have a clutch issue. that the clutch isn't grabbing the flywheel for a few seconds.
if it does studder then it sounds like an engine problem. I also wonder if it could be the clutch slave cylinder.
then step on the gas and let it go up to 4500 rpms. does it studder anwhere in the range this time?
if it doesn't studder, it sounds like you have a clutch issue. that the clutch isn't grabbing the flywheel for a few seconds.
if it does studder then it sounds like an engine problem. I also wonder if it could be the clutch slave cylinder.
I tried the above and it does not shudder at all when bringing the rpms back down and hitting the gas again. So it seems it is a clutch issue (which I thought all along). What should I tell them when I bring it in? They keep replacing the axles but obviously that is not it.
when the engine is still cold, you shouldn't be taking the rpms very high. that could just be the computer keeping the car in "warm up" mode. if the engine is cold, I don't take the rpms over 3k.
I'm not really sure what you should tell them. do you have another dealership in the area that you could take it to for a 2nd opinion since the first doesn't seem to be getting the job done?
I'm not really sure what you should tell them. do you have another dealership in the area that you could take it to for a 2nd opinion since the first doesn't seem to be getting the job done?
since we're talking about shifting..... i just got my 6 speed 2 weeks ago. I've been driving manual for a while but...
i noticed that when I shift at 3k from first to second, I would grind my gear occasionally. Nothing wrong happens when I shift into any other gears. I would shift at 3.5k and there would be no problem. I don't think my shifting technique is bad. I would also wait an extra .5seconds just in case.
Should I be shifting at 3.5k instead of 3k? ( i had a teg and accord and shifted at 3k without problems)
Anything I should look into to or any know problems? thanks
i noticed that when I shift at 3k from first to second, I would grind my gear occasionally. Nothing wrong happens when I shift into any other gears. I would shift at 3.5k and there would be no problem. I don't think my shifting technique is bad. I would also wait an extra .5seconds just in case.
Should I be shifting at 3.5k instead of 3k? ( i had a teg and accord and shifted at 3k without problems)
Anything I should look into to or any know problems? thanks
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