Need to add oil...which to use?
By 8 o clock the short hand is at the 8 oclock poistion on the gauge.... (just pretending if the guage was a full clock)
I'll take a picture and show you guys tomorrow where my oil meter is....
what type of oil should I use?
5-30 is what is stated in the manual correct?
I'll take a picture and show you guys tomorrow where my oil meter is....
what type of oil should I use?
5-30 is what is stated in the manual correct?
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sorry savio.... we just like to have fun in this forum... i use 5W30 mobile 1. not sure if its 10W30 or 5W30 in manuel. i thinik it actually states on the engine. the oil cap itself... take a look. Maybe u want to change to synthetic? so u wont have to worry about oil level
You guys are hilarious, but you bust people's balls in a kind way unlike some CLers in the Off Topic Forums.That reminds me though, I'm close to 2900 miles, I probably should see if I need to add oil yet.
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Regional Coordinator (Southeast)




Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 44,123
Likes: 4,434
From: Mooresville, NC
Originally Posted by JTso
Why Dan? you don't have an oil meter in your car?


Originally Posted by Dan Martin

Originally Posted by Savio
crap...I forgot I don't have my old car anymore 
mad brain fart there....
damn...I'm going to stop posting now

mad brain fart there....
damn...I'm going to stop posting now

If your car only has 1400 miles, then just add some regular 5w/30 oil and you should be fine. Another member mentioned that Havoline supposed to have very close properties in the oil as the "break-in" oil that came from the factory.
Originally Posted by virtualbong
You guys are hilarious, but you bust people's balls in a kind way unlike some CLers in the Off Topic Forums.That reminds me though, I'm close to 2900 miles, I probably should see if I need to add oil yet.
I just got my first oil change. Wonder what kind of oil acura uses. I doubt its full synthetic. Guess its time to go to pep boys and stock up on Mobil 1. Wonder if they still have the buy 3 get 3 free using the MADD calender...
Also...does the tsx burn oil? I had to constantly add oil to my prelude when i was running regular and synthetic.
Anyways...I guess 5k running Mobil 1/Honda Filter is safe.
Why not just dump the factory fill at this point and refill with an oil that is similar to the factory fill? Havoline 5w-30 SM contains roughly the same Molybdenum content, and I see it as a safe alternative.
I don't see any reason for leaving the factory fill in a car past 1,000 miles unless its just too damn cold to change oil.
Yes, Honda engines tend to burn some oil during break-in while the rings seat, and it will disappear as the engine wears-in.
Michael
I don't see any reason for leaving the factory fill in a car past 1,000 miles unless its just too damn cold to change oil.
Yes, Honda engines tend to burn some oil during break-in while the rings seat, and it will disappear as the engine wears-in.
Michael
Originally Posted by mrpphung
At what milage interval do you guys change oil at? The book said 10k (ideal) or 7500 normal. Numbers seem a bit high if you ask me. Wish we had the oil life gauge like the TL.
I just got my first oil change. Wonder what kind of oil acura uses. I doubt its full synthetic. Guess its time to go to pep boys and stock up on Mobil 1. Wonder if they still have the buy 3 get 3 free using the MADD calender...
Also...does the tsx burn oil? I had to constantly add oil to my prelude when i was running regular and synthetic.
Anyways...I guess 5k running Mobil 1/Honda Filter is safe.
I just got my first oil change. Wonder what kind of oil acura uses. I doubt its full synthetic. Guess its time to go to pep boys and stock up on Mobil 1. Wonder if they still have the buy 3 get 3 free using the MADD calender...
Also...does the tsx burn oil? I had to constantly add oil to my prelude when i was running regular and synthetic.
Anyways...I guess 5k running Mobil 1/Honda Filter is safe.
I suggest using oil analysis and getting a TBN reading to determine oil drains.
Everyone has a different driving style, and the owner's manual is simply a guide. Oil Analysis will tell you the best interval and oil to use for your particular application.
Michael
I know this "how often to change oil" thing is beaten to death but I have one question for people who do it more often and with more expensive synthetic oil. Do any of you plan on keeping the car until it dies? I'm going to guess that 99.99999% of the people here will sell it in the next 10 years of the car's life somewhere before it hits 150,000 miles. Do you think anyone will give you a dollar more because you tell them that you've used synthetic oil? A car w/ 150,000 miles is a car w/ 150,000 miles and I guarantee that if you change oil every 10,000 as suggested, the engine will still be running strong. I see zero benefit to using anything else other than the bare minimum to keep warranty and keep the car running well (once every 10,000 miles w/ regular 5w 30 oil). Save yourself the extra $100 spent each year on synthetic oil changes and buy yourself a trip to Cabo in a few years.
I’d have to disagree.
If you run your car at 10K drains on an over-the-counter conventional 5w-30 motor oil and a Fram Extra Guard (Honda OE) filter, you run the risk of severe sludge buildup. Rarely are conventionals good for 10,000 miles, and oil analysis is necessary to confirm whether this interval is appropriate for your particular application. Except under very rare circumstances, 10K is too long for any conventional oil and a Fram Extra Guard (Honda OE) filter. The filter may clog up, and the oil would not be filtered as well, running the risk of increased wear. In addition, the additive package and the oil’s ability to combat acids may have expired long before 10K, allowing an abnormal amount of buildup to occur, causing the engine to “sludge up.”
Will the engine die within 150,000 miles? Not necessarily. However, the engine would not be running efficiently, and you may see that in the form of poor combustion, decreased fuel economy, and increased emissions. If the engine is severely sludged up, it may hinder oil flow and cause increased wear through oil starvation. That is what happened to many owners of the VW/Audi 1.8T engine, many of them ran dino at 10K drains on their car, as recommended by VW/Audi on some models, and their engines died of a premature death because the severe sludge buildup, greatly reducing the flow of oil to vital parts, and causing low oil pressure. Eventually, the oil could no longer flow to lubricate the engine properly, thus the engine basically wore out.
Why risk all of these possible problems with your engine by simply having your oil changed every 5,000 miles? A simple oil and filter change with Supertech 5w-30 (WPP in some parts of the US and Exxon Mobil in other parts) and a Champion Labs Ecore (Supertech) oil filter at Walmart Lube Express is only $14-$15?
Use this example. If I changed my oil every 5,000 miles using Supertech 5w-30 and a Supertech Oil Filter at the cost of $15 over a 150,000 mile period, it would cost me approximately $450. If I had doubled the interval to 10,000 miles, over a 150,000 mile period, the cost would be $225. Yes, you save $225 over a 150,000 mile period, which is about 10 years for most people, but it logically makes sense to spend an extra $22.50 a year in that case and have the oil changed every 5,000 miles instead of every 10,000 miles, which would lead to an engine that is running more efficiently. Remember, an engine that is running more efficiently may yield better fuel economy, which may more than cover the extra $225 spent over the lifetime on oil changes.
Michael
If you run your car at 10K drains on an over-the-counter conventional 5w-30 motor oil and a Fram Extra Guard (Honda OE) filter, you run the risk of severe sludge buildup. Rarely are conventionals good for 10,000 miles, and oil analysis is necessary to confirm whether this interval is appropriate for your particular application. Except under very rare circumstances, 10K is too long for any conventional oil and a Fram Extra Guard (Honda OE) filter. The filter may clog up, and the oil would not be filtered as well, running the risk of increased wear. In addition, the additive package and the oil’s ability to combat acids may have expired long before 10K, allowing an abnormal amount of buildup to occur, causing the engine to “sludge up.”
Will the engine die within 150,000 miles? Not necessarily. However, the engine would not be running efficiently, and you may see that in the form of poor combustion, decreased fuel economy, and increased emissions. If the engine is severely sludged up, it may hinder oil flow and cause increased wear through oil starvation. That is what happened to many owners of the VW/Audi 1.8T engine, many of them ran dino at 10K drains on their car, as recommended by VW/Audi on some models, and their engines died of a premature death because the severe sludge buildup, greatly reducing the flow of oil to vital parts, and causing low oil pressure. Eventually, the oil could no longer flow to lubricate the engine properly, thus the engine basically wore out.
Why risk all of these possible problems with your engine by simply having your oil changed every 5,000 miles? A simple oil and filter change with Supertech 5w-30 (WPP in some parts of the US and Exxon Mobil in other parts) and a Champion Labs Ecore (Supertech) oil filter at Walmart Lube Express is only $14-$15?
Use this example. If I changed my oil every 5,000 miles using Supertech 5w-30 and a Supertech Oil Filter at the cost of $15 over a 150,000 mile period, it would cost me approximately $450. If I had doubled the interval to 10,000 miles, over a 150,000 mile period, the cost would be $225. Yes, you save $225 over a 150,000 mile period, which is about 10 years for most people, but it logically makes sense to spend an extra $22.50 a year in that case and have the oil changed every 5,000 miles instead of every 10,000 miles, which would lead to an engine that is running more efficiently. Remember, an engine that is running more efficiently may yield better fuel economy, which may more than cover the extra $225 spent over the lifetime on oil changes.
Michael
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Sorry man, had to give you a hard time for that one!
You rule.
