Joepre

I am going to replace both of my rear toe bolts on my 2008 RDX. They will need to be cut out. I am going to order two new Control arms. Anything I should be aware of in replacing the arms? Are there any steps I should be aware of out of the ordinary/obvious.?

XLR8R

Are you sure they need to be cut out?

Mine turned normally, with moderate force. Have you tried applying PB Blaster and heat?

Also, I checked the string alignment and marked the toe-bolt position before removal. When I installed new control arms (and upper/lower links) I positioned the new toe-bolts as marked. The string alignment came out exactly the same.

dcmodels

Why? do you want to reset the toe, and the bolts don't move? or for some other reason?

And I second the PB Blaster, and I normally am skeptical of such things, but it worked better than *many* other similar products I have used in 30 years.

XLR8R

Never attempt to turn a corroded chassis bolt. It will round off, or worse yet, snap off.

Mark both ends of the bolt, so you can monitor if it is turning vs twisting.

PB Blaster -- heat -- PB Blaster. I use a $7 Harbor Freight heat gun. Make sure you don't heat wires, rubber boots, etc.

Don't go for big rotation. Bump it along and check the alignment marks for even turning.

NEVER use a torch or open flame!

Joepre

We just installed new tires and the rear allignment is out enough to get a slight twist in the steering wheel while driving straight. The dealer tried to adjust both rear toe bolts and rounded off the heads. We then tried PB Blaster and numerous sledge hammers. Don't want to introduce heat as it will just melt the rubber bushing and end up replacing them anyway.
The control arms arrived today so it looks like the job will be tackled this weekend. Both the Acura dealer and our local Honda dealer said to just cut the bolts with a saws all and be done with it. They both said it was much easier this way then using the persuasion method if they don't budge fairly quickly.
How does the "string" alignment work? Stretch a strong across the bottoms of the rear tires for a length?

Mr Marco

Why is the dealer not paying for this????

Joepre

Apparently this is a very common occurrence. The newer models have a bolt head that is twice the size of ours to prevent this. The problem is that the bolts rust to the metal sleeve in the arm. The rubber bushing takes all of the pounding and twisting. I have heard of other cars with the same issue as well. Chrysler comes to mind and I am sure there are others. Once you are out of warranty, you are SOL. I tried complaining to the dealer with no luck. They just won't get the repair business.

dcmodels

I probably should not ask, but am very curious ...

I can understand how to mark and reposition original bolts, but with new bolts, I cannot understand how one would position the new bolts exactly in the same position as the old bolts?

I understand making a mark on the original bolt, and a matching mark on the mount bracket for the arm. But then, how to position the NEW bolt?

Would you mind explaining further?

Joepre

So here is the end result of this fiasco. We had to replace the lower control arm and the knuckle. This was all due to both the upper and lower attach bolts completely frozen and corroded to the sleeves in the bushings. We almost had to replace the drive shaft as well, but we we were able to pull the shaft with the knuckle, put it in a hydraulic press and separate it from the knuckle. This was all because of a lousy design by Acura. Had they either lubed those bolts during installation or used bolts with bigger heads, we would probably not have to go through this. All because we had to adjust the rear alignment.
My suggestion to all of you is to pull those bolts and lube them with anti-seize before they corrode (if you still can.) this was a huge waste of time and money all to adjust the rear alignment.

XLR8R

Make precise mark on the flange of the old bolt (flange has 4 coarse radial alignment marks). Transfer the mark to the flange on the new bolt. Match it to the mark on the bracket.

dcmodels

I would doubt that anyone is going to do that, but perhaps what I myself did will help ...

When my car was brand new, it was sprayed with *sound-proofing*, which is really just what we used to call *rust-proofing* but they don't call it that anymore for warranty purposes. So that sealed the toe-bolt-heads and adjustment cams against water/ moisture intrusion into the bushing steel sleeve.

The rubber ends on the bushings/ sleeves apparantly sealed against the inside of the frame mount, since there did not seem to be much, if any, *sound-proofing* sprayed inside the suspension arm mount (in the frame).

So when my 4 year old car had its rear toe set, the bolts and cams turned "easily" according to the mechanic. Of course, he used 2-foot long wrenches, and no small amount of muscle - I watched the adjustment myself.

But the toe adjustment would have broken the moisture seal of the *sound-proofing* so I did the following after the adjustment, which is my suggestion ...

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If you suspect that the bolts are already frozen, spray with PB Blaster. I sprayed my own bolts/ frame flanges/ rubber bushes interfaces with SUPERLUBE (from ACE hardware). This is a synthetic lubricant for metal/ rubber, is very thin to seep into small spaces, and then sets up as a grease. Recommended by GM for door locks.

Then I followed with 3M p/n 08892 rust-proofing, to seal out any moisture. After spraying as a *foam*, smear with a finger-tip to improve "flow", wear nitrile gloves, and allow to dry/ setup before allowing to get wet.

Be certain to *seal* the bolt, cams, locking nut, rubber bush ends (bushing is inside the rubber bush), against the frame mounts, etc.

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I was curious how the adjustment cam was turned by turning the bolt head. Well, there is one cam under the bolt head, as one piece with the bolt itself. On the threaded end of the bolt is a locking nut, to hold the bolt and both cams in place. Under the locking nut is another (separate) cam, which is keyed to flats on the end of the bolt. So when the bolt is turned, the cams on both ends of the bolt also turn.

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I had a four wheel adjustment done. All adjustments were within specifications, but slightly out of optimal adjustment. I had the adjustment done, not because of any symptom, but because the car center-punched another car in an accident, and I was not certain if that had altered the adjustment. Apparently not - the speed was not that great.

Mr Marco

What part of the country do you live in?

Chad05TL

nope. just cut them out.