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im looking to upgrade my sub with a JL 8W3v3-4 and replace the stock sub and my question is will it fit cause of that big marget it has. i have not open up that area to look myself.... i have seen on the other topics that a Kicker Comp S fits
im looking to upgrade my sub with a JL 8W3v3-4 and replace the stock sub and my question is will it fit cause of that big marget it has. i have not open up that area to look myself.... i have seen on the other topics that a Kicker Comp S fits
I'm sure you will have to modify the factory sub box, due to it being so thin.
im looking to upgrade my sub with a JL 8W3v3-4 and replace the stock sub and my question is will it fit cause of that big marget it has. i have not open up that area to look myself.... i have seen on the other topics that a Kicker Comp S fits
no I will not fit. short answer. if you want something to be installed into the factory box I can do it though. I put a P3D28 in my factory box. its not perfect, in that I never repainted the wood that is visible. but a trim ring around it would also hide it too.
pm if you want to talk about the options. a few pics of the build/installation. and it works way better then the factory option!
but nowhere near as good as my 15.
no I will not fit. short answer. if you want something to be installed into the factory box I can do it though. I put a P3D28 in my factory box. its not perfect, in that I never repainted the wood that is visible. but a trim ring around it would also hide it too.
pm if you want to talk about the options. a few pics of the build/installation. and it works way better then the factory option!
but nowhere near as good as my 15.
do you know the measurements for the drop in sub box
Got any pics of the sub mounted? I assume it looks exactly stock since the sub fit in, or were any modifications needed? Did this amp just run in-line with the feed that already goes to the sub, which if so I assume it means you can still control the sub output independently from the bass/treble from the radio controls?
Sorry for all the questions, it just appears you did exactly what I want - 100% stock looking upgrade that doesn't require any additional knobs or controls up front either!
Awesome, thanks. I'm pretty noobish when it comes to wiring - where did you run the amp to for power? Did you have to connect straight to the battery or through a fuse somewhere? And either way, how did you go about routing the cable?
For converting to RCA, did you just strip the end of the wire and attach the RCA plugs to the end?
Power is right from the battery of the car i got a speaker to rca cable and wire them together i got it off crutchfield site and for the sub i got the 40CWRT82.. thats a 2 ohm sub but since it a dual voice coil when you wire it up it will become 4ohms... you can get the 40CWRT81 and it would wire up to 2ohms which would push the amp right at the peak if you got the same amp i got too
Once again, thanks. So, one last question - what route did you follow in getting power from the battery to the amp? I saw the wiring kit you posted comes with the fuse so I assume that pretty much covers all needs (save for the RCA conversion you just mentioned).
Pioneer ts-sw2002d2 is a direct drop in except for new mounting holes being drilled with self tappers.<br/><br/>Just completed an audio makeover. <br/><br/>Sounds great.
This is a semi-dead thread but the easiest I found was a Hertz low profile sub ESF205 (4 ohms). Sits easily in the factory enclosure.
Fair warning, the factory amp is 100W @ .7 ohms so you really can't use it. Yes, point 7 ohm... You're forced to use a mono amp. I've got mine running off factory controls using a small single channel marine amp that's 200W @ 4 ohm. Carved out a spot in the foam under the floor by the wheel well to house it and fished wires for power/signal.
great information here. when you guys tap into the subwoofer wiring for the wire to RCA convertor, what wires are you guys tapping into? I believe I saw 5 total wires coming off of a plug connected to the stock sub box.. what colors did yall tap into? thanks!
This is a semi-dead thread but the easiest I found was a Hertz low profile sub ESF205 (4 ohms). Sits easily in the factory enclosure.
Fair warning, the factory amp is 100W @ .7 ohms so you really can't use it. Yes, point 7 ohm... You're forced to use a mono amp. I've got mine running off factory controls using a small single channel marine amp that's 200W @ 4 ohm. Carved out a spot in the foam under the floor by the wheel well to house it and fished wires for power/signal.
Sounds great.
Did you happen to snap any pics during your install process? Also, any other connectors/adapters to wire the oem wiring into the amp? I'd love to do something like this, but I'm a super newbie on car audio.
Did you happen to snap any pics during your install process? Also, any other connectors/adapters to wire the oem wiring into the amp? I'd love to do something like this, but I'm a super newbie on car audio.
No sorry. I had the guys in my install bay at work doing the majority of the work for me. It only took them about 2 hours but they're professional installers. If I'd done it myself it probably would have taken 4-6 hrs.
No sorry. I had the guys in my install bay at work doing the majority of the work for me. It only took them about 2 hours but they're professional installers. If I'd done it myself it probably would have taken 4-6 hrs.
can you ask your shop guys to see what wire they tapped for the for RCA convertor? any help is appreciated. thanks man!
can you ask your shop guys to see what wire they tapped for the for RCA convertor? any help is appreciated. thanks man!
I used the Green wire to provide RCA level input + and the Red wire to provide RCA level input -. In my situation I did not disconnect the original wiring but rather spliced directly into it to preserve the ability to remove and return to stock.
