1StGenCL

I posted this before but i couldnt find it in a search and i have noticed a lot of questions on it so here it is Hope it helps

I installed some eibach pro kits by myself and i def. recommend getting a friend to help you. I have a few pics but i dont know how helpful they will be
You will need:
-2 good jacks
-Assorted sockets and open ended wrenches (air tools if avail)
-Flashlight (very helpful when lining up holes)
-Spring Compressor
-Penetrating Oil
-Allen wrench that is included with tools in trunk
-Hammer (need a little persuation now and than)
1. Spray all bolts with penetrating oil the day before if possiable
2. Unbolt the upper strut bar under the hood (2 screws in each side and two in the middle - 12MM socket)
3. Jack up both front sides of the car (makes it easier to free strut from lower mounting piece)
4. Remove wheel on one side
5. Remove the lower mounting bolt (17MM maybe) (lower circle in pic)
6. Remove the mounting bolt that holds the strut to the bracket (upper circle in pic)
7. Remove the three nuts under the hood that hold the strut in (14MM)
8. The strut and spring should now drop out, if they dont keep wiggling it until the bottom of the strut is free from the mounting piece.
9. Now you will need to compress the top spring with your compressors. You will need to compress the fronts a lot more than the backs.
10. With the spring compressed, put the allen wrench in the end of the strut as show in the pic below.

11. Take an 14MM open ended wrench and remove the nut holding the top mount to the spring and shock.
12. The spring should now be free from the strut and you can slide your new spring over the strut.
Eibach on top, stock on bottom, lots of compressing on the old one
13. Compress the spring and put the top mount back on.
14. Using the allen wrench again, tighten the top nut.
15. Slide the assembly back in place and hand tighten the top three mounting nuts.
16. Put the bottom of the strut in the mounting bracket and tighten the bolt.
17. Replace the bottom mounting bolt and tighten.
18. Tighten the top nuts
19. Put the wheel back on
20. Do the same on the other side and lower the front
Results in the messy garage

21. Jack up both sides of the back of the car.
22. Remove one tire
23. Remove the lower mounting bolt (17MM, might be bigger)
23. Remove the two nuts on the top of the shock in the trunk (14MM)
24. Drop the assembly down, and once it clears the top hole put it all they way up to the top of the wheel well and bring the bottom out first. This took me a while to get out.
25. Compress the back spring, as you can see it doesnt need too much compressing

26. Using the allen wrech again remove the top mounting nut (14MM).
27. Slide the spring off (looking at how the bottom mount and top mounts are lined up) and put the new spring on. I didnt need to compress the back eibach, as you can see they are pretty much even in length. I put the compressed part of the spring towards the bottom. (stock is on bottom, eibach top)

28. When you go to put the top mount back on the shock and spring, make sure the top screw is inline with the very end of the spring on the bottom of the assembly. It is kind of hard to explain but if you look in the pic you will see the top mounting screw is inline with the very end of the coil. This is VERY important when remounting the assembly and cause me to remove it and start over

29. This part is a pain in the neck. Figure out a way to get the assembly back in the wheel well and lined up. Leave your self a lot of time for this one and i recommend puttting the top in first.
30. After you get the spring in place hand tighten the top nuts.
31. Than line up the bottom and put the bolt back in place.
32. Tighten the top mounting nuts.
33. Replace the wheel and move on to the other side.
Back after drop
BEFORE (not a great pic sorry)


AFTER Drop


Keep in mind i have never done this before so my instructions may not be the best way to do it but it worked for me. It did however take me the better part of the weekend and a lot of cursing but its done If you have it done expect to pay $140-150 to a local shop and around $240 at the dealer.

If you have any question or see any mistakes let me know Good luck

ding069

I will let everyone know that this is a great DIY job with great instructions. If you have any mechanical ability, give it a try. I did mine back in october, and saved money and put more pride in my car. Thanks again Pat

Sacramento CL

1stGenCL-

Using your instructions, my neighbor and I installed new springs & struts in my CL last weekend. These were very helpful, much more so than the instructions that came w/ the parts. Thanks.

Delusions

finally!!! thanks for the instructions. i did a couple of search and could never find anything. i had dropped one car before, my I-30 and i wanted to drop my cl but didn't know if it would be the same. i have a few questions for u. how low is the drop? camber kit not required? did it throw your alignment off? and are u using stock struts? again, thanks for your effort in doing this!

1StGenCL

Hey Glad it helped some of you out. My drop isnt that low (1.5?) but i like it because i dont scrap on much (i have never driven a lowered car and this drop is perfect for me). I have yet to replaced the stock shocks/struts but i keep meaning to before mine blow. The alignment was way off and i kept forgetting to get it realined so i ended up blowing out a brand new tire because the insides wore so bad but after getting new tires and an alignment i found the camber kit isnt necessary. They said i was .01 or something off on one tire from factory specs

dajuice27

Great instructions 1st Gen!

I'd say that he was pretty much inline with how Dustbuster4 and myself did my car a couple of weeks ago. I like the drop, and it handles it little better in those nice curves on the freeway at 70+ mph!