Ok I just got done washing the whole car. (Duragloss)

Dried with two waffle weave towels.

Took the clay and lubricant, and did a section (trunk top).

Felt that the surface was totally smooth afterward.

Took out the UDM, white buffer pad, and polish (tried the Chemical Guys Pro Polish).

Put the buffer on speed 2 to apply the polish (and misted just a touch, to help spread the product).

After I applied the product, I turned the buffer up to speed 5, applied some pressure, and went over the area slowly.

I did two passes on the first area, wiped off, and still major spider webs.

Tried a LOT more passes on the second area, and still the same result.


Now I feel like I'm being put on a wild goose chase or something, and the joke is on me.


Come on guys, are spider webs and scratches pretty much impossible to get rid of?

I'm thinking that no matter what, there's always gonna be a certain amount of spider webs.


I'm frustrated as hell.

 

Oh yeah, and I DID do the section of the trunk in direct sunlight, because I wanted to see my work as I was doing it.

I only did a small section, but I wanted to use the light for experiment and observation purposes.

I know you're not supposed to work in direct sunlight, but I don't think that is why there's still spider webs (could be wrong of course?).

 

Check your PM.

 

Did you go to CG's?

 

Isn't the Pro Polish a finishing polish?

 

Yes, and I learned a lot, but the one thing that kinda made me a little puzzled, is that Paul de-emphasizes the importance of good lighting.

He did a demo on my car, and another, but the thing is that if the sun isn't out, or you don't have a good light on it, you really can't see the swirls.

When the sun comes out, you can see my paint job has a LOT of swirling.

 

I don't have the bottle in front of me, but I'm pretty sure that what I got was the regular polish.

Maybe Norm can enlighten.

Norm?

(he was there on Saturday, when I went to CG)


IF it really is a finishing polish, then that would explain things.



EDIT - I just checked the site and the description, and I'm 95% sure this is what I got -

http://www.chemicalguys.com/AutoDeta..._p/gap_105.htm

 

I'm going to try one more time either this afternoon, or tomorrow, on the trunk again. This is after I buy a light (probably will go with the Brinkmann).

I'm going to really go over the polish, and make sure it is broken down. (using a white pad)

If the swirls are still as bad as they are, I'm gonna need some in-person help, and someone that can show me that swirls can really be removed.

At this point, I feel like my chain is being pulled or something.

I mean I'm really having troubles...

 

CG Pro Polish is a finishing polish... I've never used it but they call it a HIGH GLOSS FINAL STEP POLISH. Also, they recommend a LC blue pad... which I believe offers no correction capabilities.

If you want more correction, you need to use something with more cut! AT LEAST an LC white pad and something similar to M205 (or similar)... maybe Menz 106FA (haven't tried yet).

If you're committed to CG, then maybe try:
SCRATCH & SWIRL BUFF-SCRATCH & SWIRL REMOVER-Body Shop Safe (16 oz )
http://www.chemicalguys.com/SCRATCH_...com_129_16.htm

 

jmkiang, it appears you are right...


Waiting for Norm to log-on, and fill in the blank here, again as he was there Sat.

I really don't know why this polish was suggested to me, if it's nothing but a finish polish.

That would explain why the swirls aren't going anywhere though.

 

To date, what do you have on hand in regards to polishes?

 

I'm not as experienced as some on here but I've done a ton of reading

M205 is a finishing polish too but you can get VERY good correction on soft clear using a LC orange or white pad. I've detailed a couple cars with soft clear and the most aggressive I've had to go (for the most part) was LC orange and M205. Micromarring does happen so you'll probably have to go over the paint again with a LC white/gray and something like M205, 3M UF, Menz 106FA etc.

My

 

Honda/Acura paint is known for the swirls, especially on darker colours. I read somewhere that it's because they use water-based paint, which is better for the environment (and probably their wallet) but not quite the best for the car. I have a Graphite Pearl Accord, so I kinda understand what you mean. It doesn't personally bother me that much, they're just tiny swirls here and there, and only visible in light.

 

The Optimum regular polish and finishing polish, and now this stuff.

 

any luck on getting any pictures of teh defects?

 

Pads? I really dont see a problem with polish selection, and some paint massaging.......Course Im not there coaching you either.

 

So you think that EITHER the Optimum polish, or the CG Pro Polish, should work? A few people have stated that the CG Pro Polish is a finishing polish, and might not be strong enough.

As for pads, I used the white pad I got from you (not the cheap one that comes with the buffer).


I'm going to purchase a light today, and then retry.

I'm hoping it is a case that I just didn't apply enough of the buffer, to break down the polish.

I'm going to try both the Optimum AND the CG polish, and if that doesn't work, I'm going to cry out for help.

 

OP, I'm not trying to be an ass but it really isn't that hard. Have you tried watching videos online? Theres a ton of helpful ones that show the guy squirting the polish onto the pad, spreading it, polishing / breaking it down and wiping off.. all in real time.

 

I appreciate you being straight-forward.

In response, I'm not trying to be a little biotch, but so far I have a ton of spider webs, and cannot get them removed.

I'm not making things up or lying, so I don't know what else to say.

 

^ Again I wasn't accusing you of anything... I just want to help you out. I did a quick search and wasn't able to find the videos I was referring to. I'll keep looking because they are really helpful.

This might sound retarded but try having someone record you polishing a panel... then post it and everyone here can critique your procedure.

 

Maybe you should be stepping up to an orange pad and Optimum compound for the initial correction then follow it with Opt. Polish on a white pad.

Opt. Polish isn't really that strong.

 

No I know, and I sincerely appreciate your feedback!!!


I'm frustrated as heck tho, but I'm still determined. Just searching for answers.

It definitely might be my technique, but it also might be the product.

I'm going to try again either tonight or tomorrow, after purchasing a light.

I'm also going to try with both the CG and the Optimum polish.


And I got a PM for some youtube instructional vids, which I'm gonna checkout, but I DID get a personal demo this past Saturday at CG.

 

Then I wish you the best of luck tonight... get someone to record you. Might as well since you're doing it anyway.

 

OP is there a possibility you're just holding back too much? an orange pad with optimum compound should be plenty of correction needed for spider webs. how much pressure are you applying to your buffer? Im not nearly as knowledgeable as the W&W regulars, but coming from someone who also recently just started It sounds like you might be babying it. 10-15lbs of pressure is needed. Like jmkiang suggested... have someone record your next attempt on your trunk.

 

Thanks for the feedback and support.

Believe it or not, this type of stuff helps me out a lot.

I think I over-think/over-analyze too much, and tend to overreact and freak out....



On the recording, I'd like to do that, but don't have an up to date camcorder myself, so that's a "no go" for now.

 

^ Even a crappy vid would help to some degree.

I use the LC CCS pads and often times, they are about half the original height when I'm done with them... after a thorough wash, they return back to the original height.

 

My for all it's worth.....

I've been washing my own vehicles ever since I started driving at 16 yrs old. I'm 41 years old now and only recently (about a year) picked up a buffer. The first car that I ever used it on was a '97 Acura CL that had been thru 10 years of gas station quickie car washes before it was given to my wife. Needless to say it was swirled to S**T! Did I get all of it out the first time I tried? No, not even close. (maybe 65-70% correction) But, did I make the car look a lot better? HELL YEAH!! My wife said I was her hero! I've done approx 30 cars since then, during that time, I learned the little nuances of the machine, the intricacies of the relationship between the pad and polish being used and what might work one car, won't necessarily work for another. You learn all this thru experience and trial by error. About 6 months ago I decided to redo my wife's car again, and was able to get to about 90 - 95%, you need to use a light to really see anything, under the sun it looks really good.

I guess what I'm really to say is, just be patient, don't get frustrated, I didn't become an expert overnight (still not) There is a learning curve but once you get it, you're going to wonder why the little swirls gave you such a hard time in the beginning.

Oh yeah one more thing....L A K E R S!!!!!

 

Thanks Norm.


So last night after work I go to Pepboys and find the Brinkmann light.

I buy it, and the light isn't enough to really show the swirls.

So I figure maybe I need to charge it, for it to have more power, and more light.

So I charge it, and by the morning it's been 10 hours (directions say do not charge more than 12 hours).

The light doesn't turn on.


It's a conspiracy I tell you.

 

Your not having much luck with anything are ya!?

 

If you can't see the swirls with the Brinkmann, maaaaaaaaaybe you are just being too critical and your paint is in much better condition than you think...?

Haha I dunno why it doesnt turn on. Exchange it?

 

When the car is in sunlight you can see a TON of spider webs.