First in-depth cleaning questions
08-01-2012, 02:47 PM
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
First in-depth cleaning questions
hey guys i need some advice on how to clean my inside and outside of my car super well without killing my wallet.....and i also need some instructions what to dry the car with wat kinda soap and sponge to use when to clean the wheels first or last haha and what stuff to use to get a pretty decent bunch of stuff to complete the job haha.... help me out here????
08-01-2012, 02:55 PM
#5
This is a sticky
Im constantly inundated with emails and private messages regarding folks who just bought new used, or brand new
vehicles, and are asking for advice of proper car care, and/or products to use with their new baby. I have no problem answering these questions! However having to repeat the same information gets a little duldrum. With that said, Im going to go ahead and put together my best choices available to you through the exceldetail.com website,
for your position. We can talk technique on an individual level if you care to.
All vehicles need washing on a frequent basis. Once a week, or once every other week, they all get dirty, all the time. Exposure to the elements is the first area we need to combat, and it starts with proper washing. Contaminants
bombard the vehicles surface the moments it steps out of the garage. Brake dust is airborn, sap from trees, industrial fallout and the cursor of them all, U.V. radiation. Oh, dont forget bird bombs as well.
I've heard the stories about using dishwashing soap, and I see no benefit to using them. Other then it cleans, well
so does car wash soap. Leave it for the dishes, even its manufacturers don't recommend using it for auto washing. "Well is strips the old wax off." So does a polish.
Any over the counter soap, provided its a name brand, I can just about vouch for. The only differences you may see
is its rinsability. Some soaps, if not rinsed immediately, may leave a film. This film can be removed with water or a
quick detailer and microfiber. Some of my personal favorite name brands, available at exceldetail.com, are Four
Star, Duragloss, Optimum and einszett (1Z). All of these rinse extremely well.
One of my favorite medias to wash with, is of course a genuine sheepskin washmit. I find there softness superior to anything else available, be it synthetic or natural. A genuine sheepskin for me, is really the way to go. They won't scratch, are extremely gentle, hold debris its its abcesses, and then rinse cleanly. Add a bucket capable of a few gallons of water, and a Grit Guard, and your about ready to begin the process.
Another word on Grit Guards. If you care, spend the $10.00 for a lifetime of security knowing the debris you just
removed, stays settled on the bottom of the bucket. It's a great little accessory for washing, and truly valuable.
Theres also a very popular product called Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine. Add a couple/few cap fulls to each
bucket of water (2-3 Gals) and you have superior lubrication, polymers, and debris encapsulation. No other soap is
needed, theres no sudsing, and no rinsing. Just wash, and dry. One of the decades best products has come to the
market, also available at exceldetail.com, in 3 sizes.
Paint cleaning/polishing.
Paint cleaning is accomplished in two ways. One can either cleanse the paint with chemicals, or one can cleanse
and polish the paint, with light abrasives. Here's the differences. Paint cleaners clean, using a makeup of
chemicals. This makeup is designed to remove dead paint, which in turn, brightens colors, and enhances gloss and
reflection. It can be applied and removed by hand or machine, and it's often the choice for new paint, or paint which has been well maintained, and/or free of discernable swirls or scratches. It's also used on surfaces which need to
be "stripped" of existing protectants, to apply a new "layer" of protection. Some examples of products we sell fitting
this category would be Danase Pure Polish, Four Star Pre Wax Cleaner, One Grand Special Touch to name a few. Swirls can be removed with paint cleaners by selecting the proper machine and polishing pad. The process is reliant upon the pads ability to "cut".
The other form of paint cleaning involves using very light and safe abrasives. This process can also be performed by
hand or machine, but is much better addressed with a machine such as the Porter Cable Random Orbital
7424/7336 or Ultimate Detailing Machine, produced by Porter Cable. Polishes use chemicals and diminishing abrasives. The diminishing abrasives start large, and through the process of attrition, "roll" themselves out.
Through this process, they clean the paints surface, and abrade vertical edges on scratches and light reflecting
swirls. Abrasive polishes are most often used on paints that have been neglected, or on paints which have swirls
and holograms or ghost images. Abrasive polishes come in varying degrees of aggression, from very light (Optimum
Polish, 1Z Metallic Polish and others, to very concentrated, larger abrasives (Optimum Hyper Compound, einszett
Pro Intensive Paste, einszett Extra Paint Cleaner and others). Then, there's everything in between. Sort of the
midrange polishes if you will, like Duragloss SMR, Four Star Scratch & SMR, 1Z Paint Polish just to name a few.
There are also other polishes which clean and protect, with and without abrasives. These polish/protectants are
known as "all in ones". Duragloss 105, 101, 111, One Grand Clean N Wax, Optimum PoliSeal, 1Z Metallic Polish.
These are terrific products for car owners looking for quick cleaning and protection. They do often lack the stay
power of a dedicated protectant though, but, are very worthy products under certain circumstances.
Protection:
There's really no use in polishing or paint cleaning, if you don't take it the full 9 yards. Protectants come in various
forms, be it light liquids, cream liquids, pastes, or sprays. It's really up to the end user, to discover which one is
suitable for them. Most, if not all, can be applied by hand or machine. I prefer machine simply for its ease and
uniformity, as well as time and labor savings. Protectants should be applied with the lightest foam available, which
is Red if you shop at Exceldetail.com. Carnaubas have been the choice for many years. Actually, "Nuba" pastes
were about the only sort of protection available for quite some time. Creme liquids grew from that because they
provided greater ease in application, but slightly less durability. Carnaubas are a natural product, which is refined
with petroleum products, to make it usable. They offer wonderful appearance and protection, and are much easier
to use then the days of passed. Within the last decade plus, synthetic waxes, or Polymer Protectants have really
exploded on the market and autopart store shelves. These are a replica of Carnauba products, which provide better
durability, and greater ease of use, as well as the ability to stack layers of protection atop another. Sort of a short
stack of pancakes if you will! The Polymers will actually crosslink and bond to a clean, painted surface, as opposed
to "floating" on the surface. There are also hybrid protectants which contain a mix of synthetics, with natural
carnauba content. Sort of the best of both worlds. Again, appearance and ease of use, is very subjective. This
decision of which is best, is totally up to the end user. Criteria which should be considered should be, ease of use
(If its not easy to use, your not going to use it no matter what it looks like, or protects like), appearance (Does it
leave a unacceptable amount of oil, which attracts dust? Some products will leave a layer of oil, which is easily
removable once its thinned out in the sunshine. It will also wash away after your first wash, but it is not indicative of
lost protection), also consider cost (there are products out there that costs $1,000's of dollars, stay away from them!
I would dare to compare one with anything I sell! Some of my synthetic recommendations: Four Star Ultimate Paint Protectant with Polycharger, Optimum OptiSeal, Surf City Nano Seal, Danase Sealant, Duragloss 105, 111, 101, Hybrids: Optimum Car Wax Spray, Duragloss AquaWax, 1Z Glanz Wax. All in Ones: Optimum PoliSeal, One Grand Wash N Wax. Carnaubas: One Grand Blitz Wax, Collinite 476, 845, Clearkote Carnuaba MooseWax, Surf City Barrier Reef Carnauba.
Maintenance
I really highly recommend the use of Spray Waxes in the quest for perfect car care maintenance. You wash, you
dry. It's not that easy, or is it. Well it is if thats your M.O. But why not take it to the extreme, with just a quick inbetween step, that takes no longer then the time to change a radio station? Spray waxes can be applied to wet surfaces, or dry surfaces. The only difference being it loses some of its effectiveness/concentration, when used on a wet surface. But, if you can add to the base coats protection, with a few simple spritzes while drying, why not? It's really
a no brainer! You wash, you float rinse. You lift the hood and rear deck. Grab your Monterey and Riptide Waffle
Weaves. Spritz the roof with Duragloss AquaWax, Optimum Spray Wax, or Four Star Ultimate Spray Wax, and
proceed to wipe dry. Instant added protection. Do the same on the door panels, then hood and rear deck, and your
good to go!
Quick detailers are good for just about everything inbetween. Bird bombs, smudges, light dust, water
spots, or for just a general quick shine, use a quick detailer. Quick detailers do not and should not replace conventional, or NRWS methods. Spray wash cleaners have their place as well. Just use common sense when walking the auto parts store isles, and when in doubt, trust your intuition, or call me! Manufactures tend to make something, for everything these days, and the marketing depts., have gotten pretty clever. So shop with caution.
Machine polishing and pad selection:
Im going to be real brief with this one. If you dont have one, really consider getting one. You have just spent 1000's
or 10's of 1000's of dollars on a car. Is it really going to put you in the whole if you drop $150.00 on a machine that
will cut your maintenance time down to 1/2, and increase the results at least 100% vs. performing the same function
by hand? If you can operate a cordless drill, chances are you can operate a machine. Just do it for cryin out loud,
and quit making excuses for not getting one. You have come this far, read all of this, you must care enough!
If your that opposed to PC ownership, or its just not in your finances at the moment, consider the Excelerator Hand Polishing System, from exceldetail.com. Same foam compounds, but made for hand use.
There are several pad manufacturers, but I will deal expressely with Lake Country Mfg. Now, I could sit here and
explain PPI (pores per inch), density, and thickness and widths, but Im not. Decide what level of aggression you
need, then figure out what size you want to work with. Here it is in simple, laymen terms:
Yellow = Aggressive, use for serious defects, scratches, and swirls. Normally requires follow up with a lighter pad
and polish.
Orange = Semi Aggressive, use for light to moderate defects, scratches and swirls. May require follow up with
lighter pad and polish combinations. One of the most versatile pads made, can be used after yellow pads for
marring removal, and can also be used for finish polishing on light colored vehicles.
White = Light aggressiveness, use for light defects, scratches and swirls. Normally doesn't require follow up with a lighter pad and polish. Can be used with a wide variety of polishes for differing situations and circumstances. May
be used after Yellow and Orange pads for additional marring removal, or used as a final stage with a light polish.
Black = Non aggressive, use with glazes, all in one products, and sealants on light colored vehicles. Larger pores
then Red.
Red = Sealants only
Always make sure your pad supports your products being used. Results will obviously vary according to user
techniques, and paint surfaces. Weather conditions (relative humidity, surface temps, sun vs. shade can also play a
role). Always try working in the shade, some products are sun safe, but as a general rule of thumb, try to keep all
work in the shade.
vehicles, and are asking for advice of proper car care, and/or products to use with their new baby. I have no problem answering these questions! However having to repeat the same information gets a little duldrum. With that said, Im going to go ahead and put together my best choices available to you through the exceldetail.com website,
for your position. We can talk technique on an individual level if you care to.
All vehicles need washing on a frequent basis. Once a week, or once every other week, they all get dirty, all the time. Exposure to the elements is the first area we need to combat, and it starts with proper washing. Contaminants
bombard the vehicles surface the moments it steps out of the garage. Brake dust is airborn, sap from trees, industrial fallout and the cursor of them all, U.V. radiation. Oh, dont forget bird bombs as well.
I've heard the stories about using dishwashing soap, and I see no benefit to using them. Other then it cleans, well
so does car wash soap. Leave it for the dishes, even its manufacturers don't recommend using it for auto washing. "Well is strips the old wax off." So does a polish.
Any over the counter soap, provided its a name brand, I can just about vouch for. The only differences you may see
is its rinsability. Some soaps, if not rinsed immediately, may leave a film. This film can be removed with water or a
quick detailer and microfiber. Some of my personal favorite name brands, available at exceldetail.com, are Four
Star, Duragloss, Optimum and einszett (1Z). All of these rinse extremely well.
One of my favorite medias to wash with, is of course a genuine sheepskin washmit. I find there softness superior to anything else available, be it synthetic or natural. A genuine sheepskin for me, is really the way to go. They won't scratch, are extremely gentle, hold debris its its abcesses, and then rinse cleanly. Add a bucket capable of a few gallons of water, and a Grit Guard, and your about ready to begin the process.
Another word on Grit Guards. If you care, spend the $10.00 for a lifetime of security knowing the debris you just
removed, stays settled on the bottom of the bucket. It's a great little accessory for washing, and truly valuable.
Theres also a very popular product called Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine. Add a couple/few cap fulls to each
bucket of water (2-3 Gals) and you have superior lubrication, polymers, and debris encapsulation. No other soap is
needed, theres no sudsing, and no rinsing. Just wash, and dry. One of the decades best products has come to the
market, also available at exceldetail.com, in 3 sizes.
Paint cleaning/polishing.
Paint cleaning is accomplished in two ways. One can either cleanse the paint with chemicals, or one can cleanse
and polish the paint, with light abrasives. Here's the differences. Paint cleaners clean, using a makeup of
chemicals. This makeup is designed to remove dead paint, which in turn, brightens colors, and enhances gloss and
reflection. It can be applied and removed by hand or machine, and it's often the choice for new paint, or paint which has been well maintained, and/or free of discernable swirls or scratches. It's also used on surfaces which need to
be "stripped" of existing protectants, to apply a new "layer" of protection. Some examples of products we sell fitting
this category would be Danase Pure Polish, Four Star Pre Wax Cleaner, One Grand Special Touch to name a few. Swirls can be removed with paint cleaners by selecting the proper machine and polishing pad. The process is reliant upon the pads ability to "cut".
The other form of paint cleaning involves using very light and safe abrasives. This process can also be performed by
hand or machine, but is much better addressed with a machine such as the Porter Cable Random Orbital
7424/7336 or Ultimate Detailing Machine, produced by Porter Cable. Polishes use chemicals and diminishing abrasives. The diminishing abrasives start large, and through the process of attrition, "roll" themselves out.
Through this process, they clean the paints surface, and abrade vertical edges on scratches and light reflecting
swirls. Abrasive polishes are most often used on paints that have been neglected, or on paints which have swirls
and holograms or ghost images. Abrasive polishes come in varying degrees of aggression, from very light (Optimum
Polish, 1Z Metallic Polish and others, to very concentrated, larger abrasives (Optimum Hyper Compound, einszett
Pro Intensive Paste, einszett Extra Paint Cleaner and others). Then, there's everything in between. Sort of the
midrange polishes if you will, like Duragloss SMR, Four Star Scratch & SMR, 1Z Paint Polish just to name a few.
There are also other polishes which clean and protect, with and without abrasives. These polish/protectants are
known as "all in ones". Duragloss 105, 101, 111, One Grand Clean N Wax, Optimum PoliSeal, 1Z Metallic Polish.
These are terrific products for car owners looking for quick cleaning and protection. They do often lack the stay
power of a dedicated protectant though, but, are very worthy products under certain circumstances.
Protection:
There's really no use in polishing or paint cleaning, if you don't take it the full 9 yards. Protectants come in various
forms, be it light liquids, cream liquids, pastes, or sprays. It's really up to the end user, to discover which one is
suitable for them. Most, if not all, can be applied by hand or machine. I prefer machine simply for its ease and
uniformity, as well as time and labor savings. Protectants should be applied with the lightest foam available, which
is Red if you shop at Exceldetail.com. Carnaubas have been the choice for many years. Actually, "Nuba" pastes
were about the only sort of protection available for quite some time. Creme liquids grew from that because they
provided greater ease in application, but slightly less durability. Carnaubas are a natural product, which is refined
with petroleum products, to make it usable. They offer wonderful appearance and protection, and are much easier
to use then the days of passed. Within the last decade plus, synthetic waxes, or Polymer Protectants have really
exploded on the market and autopart store shelves. These are a replica of Carnauba products, which provide better
durability, and greater ease of use, as well as the ability to stack layers of protection atop another. Sort of a short
stack of pancakes if you will! The Polymers will actually crosslink and bond to a clean, painted surface, as opposed
to "floating" on the surface. There are also hybrid protectants which contain a mix of synthetics, with natural
carnauba content. Sort of the best of both worlds. Again, appearance and ease of use, is very subjective. This
decision of which is best, is totally up to the end user. Criteria which should be considered should be, ease of use
(If its not easy to use, your not going to use it no matter what it looks like, or protects like), appearance (Does it
leave a unacceptable amount of oil, which attracts dust? Some products will leave a layer of oil, which is easily
removable once its thinned out in the sunshine. It will also wash away after your first wash, but it is not indicative of
lost protection), also consider cost (there are products out there that costs $1,000's of dollars, stay away from them!
I would dare to compare one with anything I sell! Some of my synthetic recommendations: Four Star Ultimate Paint Protectant with Polycharger, Optimum OptiSeal, Surf City Nano Seal, Danase Sealant, Duragloss 105, 111, 101, Hybrids: Optimum Car Wax Spray, Duragloss AquaWax, 1Z Glanz Wax. All in Ones: Optimum PoliSeal, One Grand Wash N Wax. Carnaubas: One Grand Blitz Wax, Collinite 476, 845, Clearkote Carnuaba MooseWax, Surf City Barrier Reef Carnauba.
Maintenance
I really highly recommend the use of Spray Waxes in the quest for perfect car care maintenance. You wash, you
dry. It's not that easy, or is it. Well it is if thats your M.O. But why not take it to the extreme, with just a quick inbetween step, that takes no longer then the time to change a radio station? Spray waxes can be applied to wet surfaces, or dry surfaces. The only difference being it loses some of its effectiveness/concentration, when used on a wet surface. But, if you can add to the base coats protection, with a few simple spritzes while drying, why not? It's really
a no brainer! You wash, you float rinse. You lift the hood and rear deck. Grab your Monterey and Riptide Waffle
Weaves. Spritz the roof with Duragloss AquaWax, Optimum Spray Wax, or Four Star Ultimate Spray Wax, and
proceed to wipe dry. Instant added protection. Do the same on the door panels, then hood and rear deck, and your
good to go!
Quick detailers are good for just about everything inbetween. Bird bombs, smudges, light dust, water
spots, or for just a general quick shine, use a quick detailer. Quick detailers do not and should not replace conventional, or NRWS methods. Spray wash cleaners have their place as well. Just use common sense when walking the auto parts store isles, and when in doubt, trust your intuition, or call me! Manufactures tend to make something, for everything these days, and the marketing depts., have gotten pretty clever. So shop with caution.
Machine polishing and pad selection:
Im going to be real brief with this one. If you dont have one, really consider getting one. You have just spent 1000's
or 10's of 1000's of dollars on a car. Is it really going to put you in the whole if you drop $150.00 on a machine that
will cut your maintenance time down to 1/2, and increase the results at least 100% vs. performing the same function
by hand? If you can operate a cordless drill, chances are you can operate a machine. Just do it for cryin out loud,
and quit making excuses for not getting one. You have come this far, read all of this, you must care enough!
If your that opposed to PC ownership, or its just not in your finances at the moment, consider the Excelerator Hand Polishing System, from exceldetail.com. Same foam compounds, but made for hand use.
There are several pad manufacturers, but I will deal expressely with Lake Country Mfg. Now, I could sit here and
explain PPI (pores per inch), density, and thickness and widths, but Im not. Decide what level of aggression you
need, then figure out what size you want to work with. Here it is in simple, laymen terms:
Yellow = Aggressive, use for serious defects, scratches, and swirls. Normally requires follow up with a lighter pad
and polish.
Orange = Semi Aggressive, use for light to moderate defects, scratches and swirls. May require follow up with
lighter pad and polish combinations. One of the most versatile pads made, can be used after yellow pads for
marring removal, and can also be used for finish polishing on light colored vehicles.
White = Light aggressiveness, use for light defects, scratches and swirls. Normally doesn't require follow up with a lighter pad and polish. Can be used with a wide variety of polishes for differing situations and circumstances. May
be used after Yellow and Orange pads for additional marring removal, or used as a final stage with a light polish.
Black = Non aggressive, use with glazes, all in one products, and sealants on light colored vehicles. Larger pores
then Red.
Red = Sealants only
Always make sure your pad supports your products being used. Results will obviously vary according to user
techniques, and paint surfaces. Weather conditions (relative humidity, surface temps, sun vs. shade can also play a
role). Always try working in the shade, some products are sun safe, but as a general rule of thumb, try to keep all
work in the shade.
08-01-2012, 02:58 PM
#6
I'm doing your homework for you.
you better thank me in form of a blowjob
you better thank me in form of a blowjob
This has been discussed so many time on here, im going to go ahead and take a thread I started elsewhere, for everyone benefit. If you care to add to this feel free!
Proper claying techniques.....
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
No complete detail is complete unless you have "clayed" your vehicles surface. Kind of a strange name for a product, but I assure you its completely safe when used as directed. It can be rather intimidating if you have never used before, but once you have, you’ll wonder why you waited so long. Clay is designed to pull contaminants away or simply sheer them from your paint surface, safely, and this is accomplished with ease.
So what equipment or materials is needed? There’s no equipment needed at all! All you need is clay, and a lubricant, and a micro fiber towel for wiping upon completion. Now you can skip the towel if you elect to clay while washing.
There are many brands of clay available, and at least two are usually available at your local auto paint supply store or Automotive parts store (Kragen, Pep Boys). Meguiars makes a new version, better than its preceding version, Mothers makes a nice kit, comes with the clay, a lubricant (Showtime QD), and a small sample of Pre Wax Cleaner. The original Clay Magic I believe still comes with a lubricant as well. Make sure you buy or are using “Fine grade” in the beginning stages.
So lets get started !
Lets assume, it’s the beginning of summer, and you want your ride looking the ultimate! You begin with your normal wash routine (see Proper washing techniques), you’ve removed any tar, gum, and assorted crap stuck to the lower panels with a citrus cleaner or tar/adhesive remover (3M comes to mind). Now you have dried the surfaces with a waffle weave drying towel, and "she" looks good, you rub your hand along the top of the hood, and you feel what seems like specs of sand (If you think it feels good at this point, put your hand in a sandwich baggy)..... Close analysis, its actually tiny bits of metal (Brake linings, rail dust), or just normal industrial fallout. Its inescapable, pollutants happen to everyone, and the reason we need to remove these pollutants is, metal contributes to rust, and once rust starts, it’s usually not good! Not to mention physical appearance anyway.
Make sure your working in a shaded area, on a cool surface. Once you get started, the whole process can be completed in about ½ hr. Lets start with the hood. Unwrap your clay product, and take about 1/3 to ½ of it in the palm of your hand. Place the other portion back in the wrapper it came in, you may need this in case you drop the 1st half. If you do drop it, discard it. Spray the lubricant on about ½ to 1/3 of the surface, just as you would while quick detailing it. Take the clay in your hand and knead it until its somewhat soft. Mold to about the size of a small pancake, and place at your fingertips for easy control. Gently place the clay on the surface and glide it back in a front to back motion (grill to window). Use about 10-12 inch passes and overlap each pass. Fold the clay after each area has been cleaned. You will feel some resistance at first, but with passing motions, you’ll be able to tell the clay is removing pollutants! If you feel too much resistance, your either not using enough lubricant or your surface is REAL dirty. A good way to tell you’re not using enough lube or if your surface is too warm, is the clay is leaving product on the surface. This can be removed, with a micro fiber towel. After each area has been clayed, wipe and buff dry with a micro fiber towel.
Clay will remove a portion of wax or sealant protection, so you should follow up with polishing and sealing/waxing. Clay is not a polish! It will remove contaminants, small areas of road tar, road paint, over spray, fallout, and light oxidation. Any areas larger than an eraser tip should be cleaned with a cleaner prior to using clay, otherwise you will end up polluting your clay for future use. You should be able to clay your surface half a dozen times, depending on the quantity of contaminants.
If anyone has additional comments or concerns, feel free to post, or PM me !
__________________
Somewhere between the clear and Blackfire....
Proper claying techniques.....
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
No complete detail is complete unless you have "clayed" your vehicles surface. Kind of a strange name for a product, but I assure you its completely safe when used as directed. It can be rather intimidating if you have never used before, but once you have, you’ll wonder why you waited so long. Clay is designed to pull contaminants away or simply sheer them from your paint surface, safely, and this is accomplished with ease.
So what equipment or materials is needed? There’s no equipment needed at all! All you need is clay, and a lubricant, and a micro fiber towel for wiping upon completion. Now you can skip the towel if you elect to clay while washing.
There are many brands of clay available, and at least two are usually available at your local auto paint supply store or Automotive parts store (Kragen, Pep Boys). Meguiars makes a new version, better than its preceding version, Mothers makes a nice kit, comes with the clay, a lubricant (Showtime QD), and a small sample of Pre Wax Cleaner. The original Clay Magic I believe still comes with a lubricant as well. Make sure you buy or are using “Fine grade” in the beginning stages.
So lets get started !
Lets assume, it’s the beginning of summer, and you want your ride looking the ultimate! You begin with your normal wash routine (see Proper washing techniques), you’ve removed any tar, gum, and assorted crap stuck to the lower panels with a citrus cleaner or tar/adhesive remover (3M comes to mind). Now you have dried the surfaces with a waffle weave drying towel, and "she" looks good, you rub your hand along the top of the hood, and you feel what seems like specs of sand (If you think it feels good at this point, put your hand in a sandwich baggy)..... Close analysis, its actually tiny bits of metal (Brake linings, rail dust), or just normal industrial fallout. Its inescapable, pollutants happen to everyone, and the reason we need to remove these pollutants is, metal contributes to rust, and once rust starts, it’s usually not good! Not to mention physical appearance anyway.
Make sure your working in a shaded area, on a cool surface. Once you get started, the whole process can be completed in about ½ hr. Lets start with the hood. Unwrap your clay product, and take about 1/3 to ½ of it in the palm of your hand. Place the other portion back in the wrapper it came in, you may need this in case you drop the 1st half. If you do drop it, discard it. Spray the lubricant on about ½ to 1/3 of the surface, just as you would while quick detailing it. Take the clay in your hand and knead it until its somewhat soft. Mold to about the size of a small pancake, and place at your fingertips for easy control. Gently place the clay on the surface and glide it back in a front to back motion (grill to window). Use about 10-12 inch passes and overlap each pass. Fold the clay after each area has been cleaned. You will feel some resistance at first, but with passing motions, you’ll be able to tell the clay is removing pollutants! If you feel too much resistance, your either not using enough lubricant or your surface is REAL dirty. A good way to tell you’re not using enough lube or if your surface is too warm, is the clay is leaving product on the surface. This can be removed, with a micro fiber towel. After each area has been clayed, wipe and buff dry with a micro fiber towel.
Clay will remove a portion of wax or sealant protection, so you should follow up with polishing and sealing/waxing. Clay is not a polish! It will remove contaminants, small areas of road tar, road paint, over spray, fallout, and light oxidation. Any areas larger than an eraser tip should be cleaned with a cleaner prior to using clay, otherwise you will end up polluting your clay for future use. You should be able to clay your surface half a dozen times, depending on the quantity of contaminants.
If anyone has additional comments or concerns, feel free to post, or PM me !
__________________
Somewhere between the clear and Blackfire....
Trending Topics
08-01-2012, 03:00 PM
#8
Seriously, this was a sticky.
this thread is named "HOW TO PROPERLY CARE FOR YOUR CAR"
How To Wash
Your Car Like a Pro
by Mike Meredith
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If you're an avid "do-it-yourselfer" and would like to invest a couple of hours in your vehicle's appearance, these tips will help you achieve professional results.
"The more often you clean your car, the easier it is and the less time it takes," Mike Pennington, director of training for Meguiar's, a leading producer of car care products, told MSN Autos in a recent interview.
Of course, the quickest and easiest solution to getting a sparkling clean car inside and out is to take it to a detail shop for a professional job. But at $100 to $400 a visit, there's plenty of incentive to learn what you can do on your own to optimize your car's appearance.
Be Careful How You Start
You'll need a steady supply of water, a soft and dirt-free cloth (or a wash mitt, terry towel or soft-bristle brush) and, last but not least, you'll need a proper car wash soap.
Don't make the mistake of using dishwashing soap or a household cleaner on your car, they contain harsh detergents that can strip wax and damage paint.
As Craig Burnett, chemist for Mothers Polishes-Waxes-Cleaners, put it, "Car wash products are designed to remove automotive dirt from cars, not grime from clothes or grease from dishes. Don't confuse your kitchen with your garage."
Luckily, car wash products are carried by a range of retail outlets, from auto parts shops to hardware stores. Even some grocery stores carry a limited stock.
And, before you start, if you suspect that you may have unique paint or other accessories that may require special attention, check your vehicle's owner's manual for any manufacturer recommendations.
It's All About Contaminants
The main objective of good car washing is the removal of all dirt and contaminants.
"You should wash your car a minimum of once a week, due to the fact that your car is constantly bombarded with contaminants such as tree sap mist and bird droppings," Pennington told MSN Autos. "If the contaminants are not removed quickly they can bond to the paint and even etch the paint."
If at all possible, park your vehicle in a cool, shaded location before getting started. Washing your car in the sun can cause some surfaces to dry faster than you may want them to, leaving residue and unwanted streaks.
Basic guidelines to bear in mind:
First rinse the entire car with water to remove loose dirt.
Wash and rinse one section at a time, working from top to bottom, to prevent a section from drying too quickly and leaving deposits or residue.
Rub the car surface gently to loosen dirt. Aggressive rubbing can grind dirt right into the finish, leaving scratches and swirls.
Be sure to rinse the wash mitt or sponge often to prevent accumulated dirt from scratching the paint.
Use plenty of rinse water to carry away the dirt.
After the final rinse, wipe the excess water from the vehicle surface to prevent water spotting. A soft terry cloth towel or a high-quality chamois are recommended. Keep the towel or chamois clean to help prevent scratching, and wipe the vehicle lightly to soak up water without abrading the surface.
Wheels and Wheel Covers
Have you ever noticed that the front wheels, not the tires, but the wheels, of many cars on the road appear dirtier than the back wheels of the very same cars? This is caused by the accumulation of brake dust shed by disc brakes, which are on the front wheels of virtually all cars these days.
Luckily, there are a number of car care products on the market that do a good job of removing brake dust. Choose wisely and be sure to read the directions carefully.
A spray-on cleaner designed for premium alloy wheels, for instance, will begin to strip a wheel's protective varnish if not rinsed off in the prescribed time frame. And the same spray applied to wheels with plastic wheel covers could have serious corrosive effects.
If you're not sure what kind of wheels or wheel covers you have, refer to your owner's manual for instructions. But once you've identified the right product for your wheels, you'll find it very quick and easy to keep the wheels looking bright and new. With a typical wheel cleaner, you simply spray it on and rinse after 30 to 60 seconds.
Making Your Tires Look Like New
After washing the car and the wheels, you'll want to add a little attention to detail.
One of the easiest and most effective ways to improve the appearance of your vehicle is to apply a protectant to the tires. Many tire dressings simply spray on and require no wiping, giving the tires a clean, slightly glossy look that highlights your clean wheels.
Similar protectants are available for black rubber or vinyl trim pieces on the outside of the vehicle. For the final touch, polish any chrome trim with a product specifically for chrome. Chrome polish is designed to help remove any oxidation that has developed, restoring the chrome's sparkle.
When Should I Wax My Car?
At least 97 percent of today's vehicles come from the factory with "clear coat" finishes. "Clear coats" contain stabilizers, ultraviolet light blockers and UV light absorbers that help keep vehicle paints looking new longer by preventing oxidation, the chemical breakdown of the upper layer of paint film caused by sunlight, moisture and contaminants in the air.
But clear coats themselves need attention, too.
"Clear coats can give drivers a false sense of security by appearing to protect the underlying base coat," Matthew Broderick, group vice president of marketing at Turtle Wax Inc, told MSN Autos.
"Clear coats are fragile and susceptible to scratches, abrasions and swirls. When a clear coat surface is scratched and pitted as a result of not waxing, the light can't reflect evenly off the surface, which makes the paint look dull."
Most manufacturers recommend that you wax your vehicle twice a year to protect it from damage and maintain the colour and shine. Some auto-care suppliers recommend monthly waxing.
"Ideally, a vehicle should be waxed three to four times per year," according to Pennington, to maximize the protection provided by the wax. "A good strategy is to start right before the winter and get on to a three-month cycle."
Waxing your vehicle will help remove paint oxidation and surface dirt, while adding a protective coating. Wax will improve or remove minor damage such as surface scratches or light contaminants and provide a high-lustre finish. Again, consult your vehicle's manual for specific recommendations.
The Waxing Process
Basic guidelines to bear in mind:
The paint surface should be cool and not in direct sunlight.
Always wash the vehicle immediately before waxing.
The temperature should be above 10 degrees Celsius and the humidity should be low.
Apply the wax to a small section at a time using either a foam pad or small terry cloth towel.
Apply the wax in overlapping strokes or circular motions.
Wait for a section to dry to a haze before wiping the wax off with soft, terry cloth towels or cloth diapers.
Wipe in both directions, turning the towels often.
Shake the towels to remove accumulated wax.
When finished, wipe the entire vehicle again, paying particular attention to the edges of trim pieces, door jambs and moldings where excess wax may have accumulated.
For additional shine between wax jobs, several manufacturers offer spray-and-wipe products to quickly enhance the vehicle's shine, such as Turtle Wax Emerald Series Premium Detailer and Meguiar's Quik Detailer.
If your vehicle's paint has been damaged, the paint may need additional work requiring the use of other types of products. You should consult a professional detail shop, auto paint repair shop, or car care product manufacturer for advice before using any products that contain abrasives.
Sprucing Up the Interior
Now that you have finished the part of your vehicle that you show off to everyone as you drive by, how about sprucing up the part of the car you look at from the driver's seat?
First, thoroughly vacuum the car's interior to remove all loose, dry dirt. And be very careful when you reach under the seat, you may have forgotten what you placed under there.
Lint-free towels and clean water will be the main tools for the dash area and seats. Cotton swabs are helpful for getting dust out of tight spots. For the carpet, a clean, stiff-bristled brush is indispensable.
Pennington suggests you always use a product that is designed for the surface you want to clean, whether it is leather, vinyl, plastic, wood, simulated wood or upholstery. Each product is specifically formulated for a particular surface and will not work effectively on other surfaces, and may even damage them.
For carpet areas, use a small amount of a carpet cleaning product and a small amount of water with a stiff-bristle brush. "The biggest problem with interior cleaning is that many people over saturate the carpet when they shampoo," explained Pennington. "A wet-dry shop vacuum is useful for removing excess water. It is very important to let the carpet dry thoroughly before closing the vehicle up tight.
For cleaning windows, avoid products that contain ammonia, because ammonia can damage window tint film on the inside of the windows. Although the tint may have already been in place when you purchased the vehicle, you may not realize that it is a film that needs to be protected. Clean water and lint-free towels are effective for quick window touch-up.
Don't use ammonia or any similar harsh chemical to clean seatbelts, either. They could weaken the webbing, affecting the belts' ability to protect you during a crash.
If you use a protectant or dressing on the dash pad, be sure that it does not leave the surface shiny. A shiny dash can reflect light and be a safety hazard while driving.
Armor All Products Corp., a leading supplier in the auto protectant category, also advises that for safety's sake keep important parts of your car clean and dry, but not slippery. For example, don't put protectant on the steering wheel or the pedals.
If you carry out all of the procedures outlined above, the hours you invest will result in a vehicle that will be considerably easier to keep clean in the future with a routine of weekly or biweekly washing. Combine your washing regimen with a good waxing and interior detailing every three months and the whole process will become quicker and easier each time you do it.
this thread is named "HOW TO PROPERLY CARE FOR YOUR CAR"
How To Wash
Your Car Like a Pro
by Mike Meredith
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If you're an avid "do-it-yourselfer" and would like to invest a couple of hours in your vehicle's appearance, these tips will help you achieve professional results.
"The more often you clean your car, the easier it is and the less time it takes," Mike Pennington, director of training for Meguiar's, a leading producer of car care products, told MSN Autos in a recent interview.
Of course, the quickest and easiest solution to getting a sparkling clean car inside and out is to take it to a detail shop for a professional job. But at $100 to $400 a visit, there's plenty of incentive to learn what you can do on your own to optimize your car's appearance.
Be Careful How You Start
You'll need a steady supply of water, a soft and dirt-free cloth (or a wash mitt, terry towel or soft-bristle brush) and, last but not least, you'll need a proper car wash soap.
Don't make the mistake of using dishwashing soap or a household cleaner on your car, they contain harsh detergents that can strip wax and damage paint.
As Craig Burnett, chemist for Mothers Polishes-Waxes-Cleaners, put it, "Car wash products are designed to remove automotive dirt from cars, not grime from clothes or grease from dishes. Don't confuse your kitchen with your garage."
Luckily, car wash products are carried by a range of retail outlets, from auto parts shops to hardware stores. Even some grocery stores carry a limited stock.
And, before you start, if you suspect that you may have unique paint or other accessories that may require special attention, check your vehicle's owner's manual for any manufacturer recommendations.
It's All About Contaminants
The main objective of good car washing is the removal of all dirt and contaminants.
"You should wash your car a minimum of once a week, due to the fact that your car is constantly bombarded with contaminants such as tree sap mist and bird droppings," Pennington told MSN Autos. "If the contaminants are not removed quickly they can bond to the paint and even etch the paint."
If at all possible, park your vehicle in a cool, shaded location before getting started. Washing your car in the sun can cause some surfaces to dry faster than you may want them to, leaving residue and unwanted streaks.
Basic guidelines to bear in mind:
First rinse the entire car with water to remove loose dirt.
Wash and rinse one section at a time, working from top to bottom, to prevent a section from drying too quickly and leaving deposits or residue.
Rub the car surface gently to loosen dirt. Aggressive rubbing can grind dirt right into the finish, leaving scratches and swirls.
Be sure to rinse the wash mitt or sponge often to prevent accumulated dirt from scratching the paint.
Use plenty of rinse water to carry away the dirt.
After the final rinse, wipe the excess water from the vehicle surface to prevent water spotting. A soft terry cloth towel or a high-quality chamois are recommended. Keep the towel or chamois clean to help prevent scratching, and wipe the vehicle lightly to soak up water without abrading the surface.
Wheels and Wheel Covers
Have you ever noticed that the front wheels, not the tires, but the wheels, of many cars on the road appear dirtier than the back wheels of the very same cars? This is caused by the accumulation of brake dust shed by disc brakes, which are on the front wheels of virtually all cars these days.
Luckily, there are a number of car care products on the market that do a good job of removing brake dust. Choose wisely and be sure to read the directions carefully.
A spray-on cleaner designed for premium alloy wheels, for instance, will begin to strip a wheel's protective varnish if not rinsed off in the prescribed time frame. And the same spray applied to wheels with plastic wheel covers could have serious corrosive effects.
If you're not sure what kind of wheels or wheel covers you have, refer to your owner's manual for instructions. But once you've identified the right product for your wheels, you'll find it very quick and easy to keep the wheels looking bright and new. With a typical wheel cleaner, you simply spray it on and rinse after 30 to 60 seconds.
Making Your Tires Look Like New
After washing the car and the wheels, you'll want to add a little attention to detail.
One of the easiest and most effective ways to improve the appearance of your vehicle is to apply a protectant to the tires. Many tire dressings simply spray on and require no wiping, giving the tires a clean, slightly glossy look that highlights your clean wheels.
Similar protectants are available for black rubber or vinyl trim pieces on the outside of the vehicle. For the final touch, polish any chrome trim with a product specifically for chrome. Chrome polish is designed to help remove any oxidation that has developed, restoring the chrome's sparkle.
When Should I Wax My Car?
At least 97 percent of today's vehicles come from the factory with "clear coat" finishes. "Clear coats" contain stabilizers, ultraviolet light blockers and UV light absorbers that help keep vehicle paints looking new longer by preventing oxidation, the chemical breakdown of the upper layer of paint film caused by sunlight, moisture and contaminants in the air.
But clear coats themselves need attention, too.
"Clear coats can give drivers a false sense of security by appearing to protect the underlying base coat," Matthew Broderick, group vice president of marketing at Turtle Wax Inc, told MSN Autos.
"Clear coats are fragile and susceptible to scratches, abrasions and swirls. When a clear coat surface is scratched and pitted as a result of not waxing, the light can't reflect evenly off the surface, which makes the paint look dull."
Most manufacturers recommend that you wax your vehicle twice a year to protect it from damage and maintain the colour and shine. Some auto-care suppliers recommend monthly waxing.
"Ideally, a vehicle should be waxed three to four times per year," according to Pennington, to maximize the protection provided by the wax. "A good strategy is to start right before the winter and get on to a three-month cycle."
Waxing your vehicle will help remove paint oxidation and surface dirt, while adding a protective coating. Wax will improve or remove minor damage such as surface scratches or light contaminants and provide a high-lustre finish. Again, consult your vehicle's manual for specific recommendations.
The Waxing Process
Basic guidelines to bear in mind:
The paint surface should be cool and not in direct sunlight.
Always wash the vehicle immediately before waxing.
The temperature should be above 10 degrees Celsius and the humidity should be low.
Apply the wax to a small section at a time using either a foam pad or small terry cloth towel.
Apply the wax in overlapping strokes or circular motions.
Wait for a section to dry to a haze before wiping the wax off with soft, terry cloth towels or cloth diapers.
Wipe in both directions, turning the towels often.
Shake the towels to remove accumulated wax.
When finished, wipe the entire vehicle again, paying particular attention to the edges of trim pieces, door jambs and moldings where excess wax may have accumulated.
For additional shine between wax jobs, several manufacturers offer spray-and-wipe products to quickly enhance the vehicle's shine, such as Turtle Wax Emerald Series Premium Detailer and Meguiar's Quik Detailer.
If your vehicle's paint has been damaged, the paint may need additional work requiring the use of other types of products. You should consult a professional detail shop, auto paint repair shop, or car care product manufacturer for advice before using any products that contain abrasives.
Sprucing Up the Interior
Now that you have finished the part of your vehicle that you show off to everyone as you drive by, how about sprucing up the part of the car you look at from the driver's seat?
First, thoroughly vacuum the car's interior to remove all loose, dry dirt. And be very careful when you reach under the seat, you may have forgotten what you placed under there.
Lint-free towels and clean water will be the main tools for the dash area and seats. Cotton swabs are helpful for getting dust out of tight spots. For the carpet, a clean, stiff-bristled brush is indispensable.
Pennington suggests you always use a product that is designed for the surface you want to clean, whether it is leather, vinyl, plastic, wood, simulated wood or upholstery. Each product is specifically formulated for a particular surface and will not work effectively on other surfaces, and may even damage them.
For carpet areas, use a small amount of a carpet cleaning product and a small amount of water with a stiff-bristle brush. "The biggest problem with interior cleaning is that many people over saturate the carpet when they shampoo," explained Pennington. "A wet-dry shop vacuum is useful for removing excess water. It is very important to let the carpet dry thoroughly before closing the vehicle up tight.
For cleaning windows, avoid products that contain ammonia, because ammonia can damage window tint film on the inside of the windows. Although the tint may have already been in place when you purchased the vehicle, you may not realize that it is a film that needs to be protected. Clean water and lint-free towels are effective for quick window touch-up.
Don't use ammonia or any similar harsh chemical to clean seatbelts, either. They could weaken the webbing, affecting the belts' ability to protect you during a crash.
If you use a protectant or dressing on the dash pad, be sure that it does not leave the surface shiny. A shiny dash can reflect light and be a safety hazard while driving.
Armor All Products Corp., a leading supplier in the auto protectant category, also advises that for safety's sake keep important parts of your car clean and dry, but not slippery. For example, don't put protectant on the steering wheel or the pedals.
If you carry out all of the procedures outlined above, the hours you invest will result in a vehicle that will be considerably easier to keep clean in the future with a routine of weekly or biweekly washing. Combine your washing regimen with a good waxing and interior detailing every three months and the whole process will become quicker and easier each time you do it.
08-01-2012, 03:01 PM
#10
Proper washing techniques.....
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I thought i would start a thread entitled Proper Washing Methods. I ve been reading some threads on other forums, its amazing what and how people wash there cars! So lets get started: The first thing you would like to do is pick a shaded area, this will help in permitting water spotting later. Items you will need for this venture are : 2 buckets, car wash, sheepskin mitt or microfiber mitt/towels, waffle weave drying towel, wheel brush, hose nozzle, a safe wheel cleaner, maybe some tire cleaner. Some folks like to clean wheels first, so I wont get into the particulars of that, its fairly easy, and basic. Apply a safe wheel cleaner, to one wheel at a time, clean with brush or suitable cleaning tool, rinse, continue to the next. lol
While your car is cool, and hopefully in the shade, start hosing the surface off with a high stream of water, start at the top so dirt and contaminants fall over non rinsed areas. Make sure to use a good stream to any side moldings and emblems, you will be amazed at the quantity of dirt hiding in there.
Continue to do this until the entire surface has been rinsed. Remember, top to bottom.....Next add a couple oz of car wash soap to bucket #1, and fill with water, add water to bucket #2. With the sheepskin in hand, or whatever youve selected to wash with, gently wipe the surface with suds from a front to back motion, again, your starting at the roof area, then trunk, then hood, then sides. Depending on your speed, and if it is warm and dry out, you may need to rinse each panel after washing, until you have completed the car. Keep your cars surface wet until your completely finished. When you find the need to redip your sheepskin in the suds, rinse it out in bucket #2, this will remove dirt and contaminants from possibly further scratching the surface. (Your going to want to make sure you have plenty of soap (lubricant) on your sheepskin all the while washing, this will help to suspend the dirt, and let it be carried off during the rinse.)Use that method throughout your washing. After the vehicle is completely finished, remove the nozzle from the hose end, and let the water exit the hose without any added pressure. Hold the hose a couple inches from the roof surface, and start at the high end of the vehicle. Chase the water across the surface with the flow exiting the hose. Run/sheet the water across the surface, and continue with the hood, and rear deck, and sides.
When all is said and done, open the hood and trunk, and let the remaining water sheet itself off while you dry the sides with a Waffle Weave drying towel. (At this point, some like to use quick detailers or Eagle One’s “Wax as u Dry”.) Start at the top, and work your way down to lower panels, refold the waffle weave as it absorbs water, a 24x30 towel is generally all that is needed. You may want to follow in your other hand with a clean and dry microfiber 16x16 towel.
You may find this technique of benefit to you, and if so, you may be able to tweak it a little to meet your specific needs. Good luck, and I hope to have helped at least a few of you !
If anyone needs any additional questions answered, or some help in product selection, just PM me !
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I thought i would start a thread entitled Proper Washing Methods. I ve been reading some threads on other forums, its amazing what and how people wash there cars! So lets get started: The first thing you would like to do is pick a shaded area, this will help in permitting water spotting later. Items you will need for this venture are : 2 buckets, car wash, sheepskin mitt or microfiber mitt/towels, waffle weave drying towel, wheel brush, hose nozzle, a safe wheel cleaner, maybe some tire cleaner. Some folks like to clean wheels first, so I wont get into the particulars of that, its fairly easy, and basic. Apply a safe wheel cleaner, to one wheel at a time, clean with brush or suitable cleaning tool, rinse, continue to the next. lol
While your car is cool, and hopefully in the shade, start hosing the surface off with a high stream of water, start at the top so dirt and contaminants fall over non rinsed areas. Make sure to use a good stream to any side moldings and emblems, you will be amazed at the quantity of dirt hiding in there.
Continue to do this until the entire surface has been rinsed. Remember, top to bottom.....Next add a couple oz of car wash soap to bucket #1, and fill with water, add water to bucket #2. With the sheepskin in hand, or whatever youve selected to wash with, gently wipe the surface with suds from a front to back motion, again, your starting at the roof area, then trunk, then hood, then sides. Depending on your speed, and if it is warm and dry out, you may need to rinse each panel after washing, until you have completed the car. Keep your cars surface wet until your completely finished. When you find the need to redip your sheepskin in the suds, rinse it out in bucket #2, this will remove dirt and contaminants from possibly further scratching the surface. (Your going to want to make sure you have plenty of soap (lubricant) on your sheepskin all the while washing, this will help to suspend the dirt, and let it be carried off during the rinse.)Use that method throughout your washing. After the vehicle is completely finished, remove the nozzle from the hose end, and let the water exit the hose without any added pressure. Hold the hose a couple inches from the roof surface, and start at the high end of the vehicle. Chase the water across the surface with the flow exiting the hose. Run/sheet the water across the surface, and continue with the hood, and rear deck, and sides.
When all is said and done, open the hood and trunk, and let the remaining water sheet itself off while you dry the sides with a Waffle Weave drying towel. (At this point, some like to use quick detailers or Eagle One’s “Wax as u Dry”.) Start at the top, and work your way down to lower panels, refold the waffle weave as it absorbs water, a 24x30 towel is generally all that is needed. You may want to follow in your other hand with a clean and dry microfiber 16x16 towel.
You may find this technique of benefit to you, and if so, you may be able to tweak it a little to meet your specific needs. Good luck, and I hope to have helped at least a few of you !
If anyone needs any additional questions answered, or some help in product selection, just PM me !
08-01-2012, 03:56 PM
#15
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
^he's cleaning his car.
The following users liked this post:
mikebikelife (08-02-2012)
08-30-2012, 08:18 AM
#18
My first Avatar....
08-30-2012, 12:16 PM
#22
Team Owner
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO (Overland Park, KS)
Posts: 36,545
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Leave it to Justin....
08-30-2012, 07:47 PM
#23
I'm haha LOL haha at haha this haha thread haha
08-31-2012, 04:25 PM
#25
Keep'n it clean- Orlando
Run as far as you can from this site... its a very deep rabbit hole and you will get sucked in... granted you will love every bit of it... but you will become a maniac with your paint just like I have become... and you will chase perfection which is nearly impossible to obtain... 
buckle up buddy...
buckle up buddy...
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